Hi Colin, When gluing end grain, I found mixing the yellow glue with water, about 50/50, and brush that on the end grain. Wait till it set and then use full strength glue to actually finish. This seals the end grain without getting a thick glue line.
Hi Colin. When removing glue with an old chisel, there are two points that were missed: first, you want to remove the glue once it "skin's over" - when it's rubbery but not fully dried (which gets hard enough with TiteBond III to nick a planer blade). Second, you have to use the chisel bevel-side down, and not up. This keeps the chisel from gouging a grove as you described. The scraper is a good idea, though.
Next tips ;) - mix saw dust with glue (PVA, epoxy or other glue) for use as filler or primer sometime - use vacuum bag for gluing some wood piece (because the pressure of the atmosphere is approximately equal to 1 kg on each 1 cm²), for example ideal for laminating and suitable for curvilinear surfaces that can not be pulled together by clamps Of course, there are many more tips, but so far nothing else comes to mind :)
Remove the glue from a lamination just after it has congealed but not fully hardened, around twenty minutes. That way you can avoid pulling up the wood and avoid smearing it everywhere.
To help keep glue parts from sliding against each other, put just a very tiny amount of table salt in the glue before putting the pieces together. It creates just enough grit to keep the pieces from sliding, and as long as you don't put too much it, it won't interfere with the strength of the bond.
Coln, I noticed you left out a Very Smart Tip when You are using the Two Part Epoxy... You mix on a pad of sticky note!!! Done trash the sheet used and you are ready for the next Epoxy Job.
In this video you said you don’t like using a chisel to scrape dried glue from boards but earlier in a video I watched you had created a jig to hold a chisel for scraping off dried glue. I have heard both ways so I am not sure which is best?
Stains are the least of my concerns with gluing. For me gluing is an exercise in futility. I don't know that I've ever successfully glued anything together. I need an education on the subject. There should probably be a whole class dedicated to it. Which types of glue work on which types of materials. What's the most you can do but also what's the VERY least you need to do to make sure a bond holds.
I use salt when gluing up all the time... just a few grains is more than enough to prevent the wood from sliding around, yet does not affect the bond strength. Sugar doesn't work - heard the crystals aren't sharp enough. (I was actually going to type this tip as a comment when I saw yours.)
I have two 9 1/2’ x 3 1/2’ large panels, it’s 8/4 red oak, I used a Makita belt sander with a sanding square and flattened both panels, but I noticed that there is still glued stains in the glue joints. What would be the best way to remove this dried glue? I plan on using an orbital sander and sanding to 150, because I will be staining a dark walnut, but I know if I do not get rid of this glue in the joints, it will be a disaster when I add the stain. Will the orbital sander get rid of the glue stains in the joints? Or is there another method I should use?
Hi Colin. I pay special attention to wiping and scraping away the excess glue for panel glue-ups. My problem is that I always see glue marks once I apply wood stain. Obviously the glue does not adhere to the glue so it looks unsightly once the stain is applied. Sanding might be the only solution but it is difficult to know how much sanding as the glue blends into pine wood. Any tips will be appreciated.
Hey Colin, nice video as always. Just one question, I have a problem when I glue up a cross joint, after I have removed the excess and it is dry I get a stain on the wood which is super hard to remove by sanding, specially inside a cabinet, I guess pre-finish would help, but do you think it might be the type of glue? Or do you have any other tip? Thanks
I heave heard you an put table salt in between the faces to help prevent them from slipping when clamping because of the may points the salt creates when under pressure pushing into the wood. I have yet to try this myself so if someone has tried it and it doesn't work, please let me know
