Back in the day we called match lighting. Set for ambient and light the subject to match. Even after 50 + years of photography innovation, somethings never change. Keep up the good work Jason. BTW, that's my old stopping ground, Balboa Park. ;-)
What a great video, Jason and Emily. You are such a great teacher and so forthcoming with information. You'll just never know how much you have changed my life for the better. I love being a photographer and blessing others with great imagery. I could never have afforded the education you've given to me to have made my dreams come true.
Wow... thank you good sir! This was new for me, and makes PERFECT sense! I’m fairly new to this hobby, so I have what might be a stupid question... :-) A simple flash with a remote and an umbrella, could be a easy way to get started, and test this technique, right? Anyway, thanks again! Kind regards Michael
Great to hear your coming to Laguna Beach. They have started a $599 dollar fee for taking pictures here in Laguna ? When and how did photographers come under attack by unjust fees.
Hello, great to see video guidance from such an expert, including Miss Emily. However i do have a question. Will it works with something like this: 3300K-5600K Bi-Color CRI 95+, size like I Phone. its portable video light. Photo: Sony A6000, lens: Kamlan 50 mm f 1.1. Sadly i dont have ability to buy Rotolight. Thank You again for such activity. Your Team with Emily is very impressive and helpfull as well. Thnk You for the answer.
This is exactly how you light using a speedlight at night. Set your camera up for the ambient, then add flash. Low power and work your way up. If too powerful move flash further away from model or adjust flash power.
That s exactly what you want to do when using on camera flash, the iso have to go up to expose the ambient otherwise if you keep iso low as possible and use the flash it has that flash look that I don t like
Just wanted to point out a few discussions and charts online about dual conversion gain CMOS sensors like the one in the Sony bodies. ISO 100 and 640 are the cleanest you'll get. Anything above that you are better off bumping in post processing. Of course the theory is one thing, wrapping my head around deliberately shooting under-exposed images is entirely something else. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this.
I use the NEO 2 with phottix umbrella softboxes I get some pretty nice results. One thing that I would love because I miss doing it is can we please get a NEO that can over power the sun??? May sound crazy but I’m pretty sure Rotolight could pull it off. Anyway Thank you Jason again for the awesome tutorial!
Hi bro awesome technique my confusion gone today thanks a ton so while shooting with speed light what power should we set on flash and distance between subject and light
Very helpful...thanks...Its actually how I shoot Off camera FLASH...haha..Great Job...I bought my FIRST ROTO LIGHT NEO2 Last month , when you had that special.. Used it on 1 wedding last week and loved it...Thanks Again!!
Best video I've seen on continuous lighting setup! Told me exactly what I needed to know and show a practical application. I would often set my exposure WITH my COB Light, but plan to set ambient first without it like I do with flash, but add in the COB later moving forward!
I like the look of cinematic, its really nice and I have one Neo 2 now to just test. My question is what do you do for print with the high ISO? Do you have to fix a lot of the noise for larger prints and say your above 1000 ISO. I mean cinematic is for video, but what about print quality, sorry for my ignorance its just a thought I had?
Jason as part of your shoots using your Sony A7RM3, do you do an in-camera colour balance, or a colour balance using a colour checker in Lightroom, prior to the shoot? Thanks in advance.
Jason thank you and miss Emily I was struggling with exposing correctly I normally can't get things into my head from videos I'm a little strange that way , but after countless times I decided to search back through your videos and thank fully found this video and thanks to your none nerd straight talking and simple approach some thing clicked straight away honestly thank you for this video I cannot wait for your uk return so I can get to a work shop stay safe Jason
Some people talk too much instead of getting right to the point. I want to know how to properly set the camera when using flash for portraits. Do I take the flash exposure meter and point it at the main light? And what about the fill and back light?
Jason is awesome at what he does for all you haters. There’s nothing wrong with this video and he shouldn’t have one thumbs down . Keep up the good work Jason I’m hoping to do one of your workshops this year.
The light is for your subject, the camera is for your ambient. I've always known that but hearing you put it like that will seal it in my brain forever.
why would you adjust the light when you could drop the ISO lower, get the same light dimming effect, and get LESS NOISE in your shot???.......thats.....basic man
Lol no that’s not basic. What is basic is understanding that ISO affects the entire exposure I’d the overall image whereas the light affects exposure of just your subject. That’s why.
Thanks again Jason,I have been learning from you a couple of years now and everyone has noticed the change in my work. Models are contacting me now. Exciting times,cheers again
Such simple steps, yet so crucial. I never would have understood the why if I haven't seen Jason's work. Thanks to you and Emily for providing such great content.
I agree who gave this a thumbs down it was perfect to the point and something some photographers just don’t get right. Jason always keeps it simple and to the point and Emily is just so much fun!
Dear Uncle Jason!! I’m a retired photographer but I wish to compliment you on the refreshing approach you demonstrate and the motivation you give to so many viewers in your videos!!! I experienced film, then digital, and even ran my own Lab! Respect from the UK my man!!!
Camera for ambient and lighting for subject isn’t anything new... it’s always been like that, first you expose for the background wanted then introduce the light, it doesn’t matter if you use strobes or continuous light, filming or stills...
Nilo Fido lol never said it was new. But neither is flash, learning aperture, high speed sync, composition, rule of thirds, depth of field, modifying light. Oh the list goes on. I’m grateful there are those out there that want to continue learning :)
Do you ever have problems withe a speed light changing the overall exposure of the image with a semi dark background and just wanting to illuminate the face? Hopefully this makes sense.
HiJason ,I Thank You!! so much from the bottom of my heart for all you do for us inspiring photographer's .Your truly an inspiration and I'm looking forward to your next NYC shoot. Bless and stay safe and healthy .
Hi Jason, thanks this is a useful video. Do you have a different approach when you use Rotolight LED lights in flash mode? Would you use a slower shutter speed and lower your ISO, and then let the flash freeze any slight movement?
Such a great lesson, thank you very much. I just got my first rotolight neo 2 over a week ago, but was sick with the flu. Now that I feel better I’m obsessed with getting out and using it. I don’t even have an elincrom trigger yet....I have my trusty old 5D classic and a 16 foot PC synch cable. Elinchrom will likely be my next purchase....at some point.
It was a very nice video explaining everything in depth and to the point. Thank you so much Jason for putting this video together. Even being an intermediate level photographer sometimes we need to go down to the basics
OK NOW I get it! When we were shooting at Bella Abzug Park in NYC with you and Emily, I was doing it backwards.(adjusting aperture and shutter speed to accommodate a low ISO). This totally makes sense and I’m excited to get out and try it. Great video!
