1. Panel gaps - indication of accident 2. Roof - check for rust & leaks - and check for dampness under mats 3. Rust - sills, prod with screwdriver for fillers. doors. inside the boot. 4. Windshield - check for cracks 5. Tires - check size, wear & similar type
Very informative. One thing I'd like to add is that the original tyres on these cars can last an unusually long time in terms of thread wear. I replaced my tyres when the car got about 85k kilometers on it, not because they had no thread left but because they were dried out and completely past their due date. As it turned out, they were still the original tyres! So you might want to check if they still have the original tyres on them because that will be an issue and quite dangerous
Water in boots on mk3s is from the drainage system needs unlocking mine was holding a litre of water at least.cleaned drainage and no water anywhere 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video, very informative. FYI- it’s also worth checking the inside of the boot lid, above the rear number plate; they’re prone to rusting there also, due to road spray. Cheers
@@CarThought It's ok, it's not rust it's just aluminium oxidisation which is nothing to worry about because its cosmetic and at worst the paint peels....But... the PRHT hard top version is steel though and that will rust through. Further to the wet carpets: Check the fuse box under the passenger A-pillar for water ingress from the base of the windscreen. Also check for the eleven laser etched badges on the main bodywork panels which ensure they're genuine factory fitted parts. Finally: enjoy what you've chosen to drive, I have an NC2 and its a tonic.
1- A full service history, whether its from a Mazda dealership, or respected independent garage If the car doesn't have an impeccable service history, walk away, and find one that has. 2- If the cars been modified, have the modifications been carried out to a high standard, using high quality parts 3- Accident damage or poor repair work 4- The overall condition of the car, has it had a hard life, with an interior thats seen better days 5- There are a lot of used MX5s on the market, make doubly sure you buy the best example your budget will allow. A car that has been abused or poorly maintained, will cost a lot of money to put right, so make sure you buy the right car.
Great info also one thing worth checking with the damp on the inside the drainage holes often get bunged up with sludge which results in the same problem, the pipes are easily cleaned with a flexible cleaning brush.
Good informative video. I had an 02 LS model. One item i didn't see covered is to check the water drain holes located behind the top. If the clog, water will build up inside the quarter panels and cause them to rust.
I got my 2008 NC PRHT with 63,000 kms on the odometer last year. Aside from a few scratches and some faded leather trim, it ran perfectly and the retractable hardtop folded in 12 seconds as it should. I brought my mechanic friend with me to make sure there were no issues, and he gave it a thumbs up after a test drive. Since taking delivery of the NC, I've replaced the coolant expansion tank, steering wheel, shift knob, and aircon compressor. I've also added a grounding kit and changed the stock head unit to a Pioneer SPH-C10BT. I may need to change the alternator soon.
Another area to check is on the passenger side. Open the glove box and look at the metal behind. I had a mx5 NC and found the scuttle trim leaks and you will find rust on the inside of the car hidden behind the glovebox. It’s easy to check but a scutter to fix as you have to remove the scuttle trim and wiper arms to reseal it. This is a common fault.
Oh man im buying NC miata in few months but im already excited. I wanted NB at first and that decision was solid for a pretty long time but not so long ago i decided to take a better look at the NC and its way way more modern, i also didnt really like the look of it but now i grew to love it.
Baton I do hope you have not purchased an NC MX5 they are a horrible car to have to repair, I have worked on quite a few and all I can say is either buy a new car , which will be under warranty or buy an NA or NB model.....
Five dots Dave honestly my brain likes to change its mind... I know NC is pretty modern and nice but on the other hand im more into modifying my own shit, thats why my decision once again goes to the NB which i will buy in less than a month- i just need to find the model that meets my expectations and also have as little rust as possible, which is not very easy. From the time i spent on car trading sites here in poland, turns out most 1.6L models are in pretty good shape in terms of rust but the 1.8(the ones i’m looking for) ones are a bit harder to find. Anyways- the NB is my final decision due to the easy modifications. I might even turbo it one day.
My NC has been very reliable after 140,000 miles- the timing chain should last the life of the engine as opposed to the belts of the earlier models. Apart from normal oil changes with 0-20 synth, I have only replaced tranny and diff oil, brakes, serpentine belt and battery.
For a long time, my mind was set on buying the NBFL, but I do like a hardtop on it and the PRHT of the NC convinced me to go for the NC. If everything turns out well, I will buy one tomorrow
This vid is perfect for me. I will be getting an NC (2014-2015) with the retractable hardtop as a retirement gift for myself in a couple of years time. Your tips will come in handy when I start shopping for that dream car.
After taking my mx5 NC2 for my first track day, here's one thing I wish I would have checked: open the front row hook and the rear tow hook covers (can do with a small flat screwdriver), and look at the threads inside the holes. My front tow hook threads had completely rusted up and had to be scrubbed fairly hard so I could insert my tow hook. Even worse was the rear tow hook hole, which had rusted so hard that the hole is smooth and no threads remained. Easy way to see to what degree the rust has spread through the car (and also you can tell if the owner has taken the car to the track, since a tow hook on the front is mandatory)
Japanese cars always rusting! When I did my track day I put the tow hook in the night before so I didn’t forget it. As far as I’m aware (for MSVT anyway) its mandatory.
@@CarThought yep mine was MSVT at Bedford Autodrone! I did mine the day before too, and luckily had time to go to Halfords to buy stuff to help me clear out the threads -had half the staff there trying to help me force it into the front tow threads just before closing :/
This car is easy to get in Norway (Price: $1 000 dollars = 8000 NOK) This is an great/cheap price for an car and it's so good, goes fast and smooth on roads. Easy to take care of because they are small and comfy cars
Thanks for the info - knowledge is a good thing, especially when parting with hard earned cash! Thinking of a Mk3 but am a bit nervous about the cost of keeping the rust at bay - the internet is full of horror stories.....
Just make sure you thoroughly check the car. Tend to find location where the car has been kept has an affect on the amount of rust, cars that are kept at coastal locations tend to have more rust. Also obviously mileage and whether it has been garaged. Once you have a good one, you can always rust treat and underseal it :)
There’s really nothing you need to worry about, except rust. I drove my last one 120K miles (and my current one 20K), and apart from routine maintenance and wear items like tires, oil and filters, brakes, etc. (I did replace the interior and top, which made my first, by then 10yo black on black car like new), the only actual failures were the clutch slave cylinder, twice. Neither of those failures caused me to be stranded, the repairs were inexpensive, and that was IT. Nothing else ever broke in a total of about 160K miles.
great video... I am looking at purchasing a 2008-2010 MX-5 NC currently. This popped up in my feed at a great time. I will check all these areas in my search. I'm leaning towards a hard top model.
If you floor is wet, where you showed, it has nothing to do with a leaking roof and everything to do with drainage holes blocked, a must have for an MX5 owner is a trombone brush for that exact job. The second reason is the blanking plates on the bulkhead/wiper area, a bit of silicon and a cheap replacement of those and job sorted.
Thanks for the comment! This was actually made in 2019, however youtube still insist on putting it in everyone’s feeds! I’ve actually learned about more common issues and made videos about both of the items you’ve mentioned if you want to check them out? Drain hole clean: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-03vSFVQGu4c.html Scuttle Grommets: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bEwwdv8M4cM.html
Good video, but you missed a huge issue and the biggest source of rust on older MX5 Mk3 vehicles. You need to have a look behind the carpet-like covering that is in the rear wheel arches, particularly in front of the rear wheel where it covers the metal panel above the sills. You will probably find that is it completely rusted away. Best bet for these cars is to remove the rear wheels, remove the carpet covering, treat the whole of the inner wheel arch area with rust converter and then hammerite the entire area. For good measure, you could also apply underseal coating, but a couple of hammerite coats will do the job. This is on the assumption that the metal isn't already rusted out.
@@CarThought Yes, you're about right there! I've just purchased a 2010 2.0 Sport Tech, which arrives tomorrow, first thing I will be doing is checking all the rust areas underneath! If it's not too far gone it is fairly simple to deal with, the trick is to catch it before it's too late. My car has been bought 'sight unseen' due to the coronavirus outbreak, but I know it's been well looked after and I'm hoping for the best.
Did you check the sill end panels in the rear arches? Just treated the entire rear wheel arches in my 2010 Sport Tech PRHT, luckily there were only a few spots of very minor surface rust developing, none of the panels were compromised so I rubbed down to bare metal and then applied 3 coats of hammerite to the entire unprotected area. Should be no future issues for me. Also, you need to check all of the suspension adjusting bolts on the front and rear of the car, they will probably be corroded and seized on a 2006. Take the bolts out, sand off the corrosion and apply anti-seize before re-installing them. Remember to photograph the position of the adjusters before you remove them so you can put them back in the same position, unless you plan on a full wheel alignment straight away. It's not a pleasant or easy job (fronts in particular can be difficult to re-install), but will save you money in future if you want a wheel alignment geometry set up done.
Another one is the water runs off the back on the sides and has a flap that opens up to let water out and if the flap is stuck there is damp found in the boot
I would also check if the engine consumes too much oil. When I bought an 2006 NC 1.8 5 years ago I learned the hard way that if the oil level is not properly maintained on these engines the piston rings go bad and the engine starts using too much oil. After I bought it I noticed when revving the engine there was quite a bit of black smoke coming from the exhaust, and the engine was using more than average oil. Still enjoyed it though :) just had to check the oil level more often than usual and top it up more often than usual. Just something ti keep in mind when shopping for one.
I was hoping to as well, unfortunately insurance was crazy expensive as it’s a 1.8 two seater convertible sports car, buying one in a few weeks , been driving a year and a half
I live In USA in Florida. Snow & salt are four letter words and we don not have any here. So we don't have the worst four letter word here either. RUST!
Nice video, I have some uneven tyre wear only on the nearside front tyre on the feather edge so getting it checked this week. Don’t know what would have caused it.
@Car Thought you wouldn't know what the maximum range is on a 1.8 NC MX-5? The earlier NC’s didn’t have a trip gauge as far as I know but the later ones did. Doing a 158 mile journey to East Devon in August? Thanks.
@@danielcoleman8262 I've managed 180 in mine in one trip and it used a little under half a tank. Mine is the 6 speed 2.0 but a 1.8 may use a little more or a little less... It will rev a little higher if it's a 5 speed? But also use less fuel because of the smaller capacity. Either way you will definitely get 158 out of a tank!
looking to buy a 2008 mx-5 . He is Letting her go for $3500 has 122,000 miles , it has a tapping engine . says he doesn’t know could be a rod any ideas if I should ?
This is a really great video. Have subscribed on that video alone. You seem to know your stuff. Had a Porsche Boxster 3.2S but it was too quick to enjoy. I am in the market for one for a MX-5 next summer. Two questions if I may. 1. Would you say that these cars are cheaper in winter time or the summer time, or does it make a shed load of difference? 2. what are the main differences with the mark 2 and the mark 3, as in this video? Thanks again. Jay
Thanks for your supportive comment Jay. If you’re talking about the UK, I would say regions have more of an affect on the purchase price than the seasons do. With my experience in purchasing, a car in London will always be more expensive than one of similar condition to one in Derby for example. So it might be worth travelling to view. I found a lot of people had the same idea of, ‘a sports car will be cheaper in winter’ and so sellers tend to market that idea to you, without really altering the price. A Mk2 is effectively a mk1 with a revised body where as a mk3 is an all new platform, a mk2 in my experience feels more old school, raw, ‘classic car’ if you will. A mk3 still has a raw feeling, but more refined (still a long way off a modern car!). Also mk3’s had the bigger 2.0L mated to the 6 speed and LSD in sports models. In addition, they are a bigger car overall, hence weigh more. ☕️
Billy B exciting times! Honestly there are so many different sources of information, some say 60K miles, some say 100K and some say fit for life! It would give peace of mind to have it changed but ultimately it is a cost vs length of ownership equation. Each dealership/garage will probably advise you differently, maybe get a quote in your area and see if you think the cost is worth it?
Really helpful advise thanks! I've done a bit of research and found this really useful link if others have similar questions! Happy driving. garagedreams.net/buyers-guide/mazda-mx-5-miata-buying-guide-every-generation#Mazda_MX-5_NC_Buying_Guide
I understood that the Timing chain ( on MK3 onwards) is supposed to last the life of the vehicle . The older MK1, MK2 MX5's had belts, so would need replacement
Please answer this Q please. Is there some country regulation or Europe law that your Miata has an amber side marker lamp on the front fender. US Miata's do not have them. Hello from a 2011 NC owner in Pennsylvania!
Hi Brian, it’s to do with regulations US vs EU. I can’t say for sure which regulations governed why the early Mk3 UK MX-5’s had orange indicators from factory. A few of the later model Mk3’s came with clear ones with orange bulbs (for instance the sport graphite edition). The US tend to be behind with regulations for lights (adaptive headlights) for example.
Hello! As I’m not in the US I’m not sure of the market.. but if conversion rates are correct that would be quite an expensive car in the UK. But then again, much more common here!
I mean yes but just take your car to a mechanic before you buy it anyway. There could be many hidden stuff only a mechanic can tell. 100$ for a 10,000$ purchase is only 1% of the cost that can save you so much more headache and financial burden.
My goodness! Most of what you "review" applies to ANY car. And many of the items you refer to are due to incompetent or careless owners. The Miata is of course subject to rust or wet carpets or tire wear So is any convertible. But the rust or wet carpets or trunk are very rare in these cars - unless someone left the top up in the rain, and was abusive of the car. I've never seen a Miata with a cracked windshield due to an unstable windscreen, either.