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Making a gear change can help restore some of the lost low end power and torque (especially with gas engines). It wont give you quite the factory feeling power and torque back, but it is close. The main reason you only get close is the fact that your bigger wheels and tires do add extra rotating mass weight. The other good reason to endure the expense of a gear swap, your transmission will thank you. In many cases, you hit a certain speed where your transmission is continually shifting between 3rd and over drive. This gets to be pretty hard on your 3-4 clutch drum, plus increases how hot things get. For example, my 1990 z71 came with 3.42 gears and a 30" tire stock. When I put 6" of lift on it and 33" tires ( actually needed a little more lift to avoid trimming when driven off road ), I swapped the gears out for 4.11's. That change put me 150 rpm over what the stock wheel+tire combo yielded stock at 70mph. While a 3.73 would have had me turning close to the stock rpm at 70, I knew that going just a little lower in gear would make everything much happier.
Regearing is SUPER important for the longevity of your transmission. Anything 35"+ in tire size you should save up for a ring & pinion gear ratio change... Expensive if your truck is 4x4 but VERY worth it if you want the truck to last at all.
@@i_am_wi11_ All depends on the truck. I would regear a Chevy with 2.73s or 3.08s if I put 33s on it. But if you got 3.42s or 3.73s nah I wouldn't bother regearing for 33s. Assuming a full size truck though.
@@DrGand lol what about on a 2006 4.3 Putting a 5.3 or 4.8 this summer and a buddy got me a good deal on a 4.5 country lift , so wondering how long it’ll last lol
@@i_am_wi11_ The lift will be fine. The reason for the regear is for the transmission. Regardless of the engine; you want at least like a 3.42 for a 33 in front of a 4L60. 3.73's Would be better. Check your stock axle ratio.
He for got the part of "don't use a lift to increase value of your car" lol. Seen it over the years. Do these things for enjoyment, not profit. Truck on people.
Mike T I see that way too much where i am. I have time to kill so i fuck with the dealers. Take it for a test drive and that. At the end i ask them how much they want for it since the lift kit actually counts as frame/suspension damage. They shut up pretty quick.
@@brandoncaldwell95 here in Florida, and probably elsewhere too, the dealers have started taking regular trucks with 15,000 or less miles that I guess they buy at auction, lifting them and decking them out and selling them for what they cost brand new...all day long. $40K+ for 2018 Silverado LT with lift and level and Katzkin covers... all day. I'm pissed because I don't want an 800.00 payment.. for a truck...
@@richardthompson8309 Im in the same boat. Netdirect.com Does exactly that out of Dallas. They are somewhat decently priced in my opinion as dealers expect the same price without all the additions. I do agree with the 800-1200 payment. Thats an entire 2 week pay check for me and half the next for insurance. No thanks! Ill keep my 05 and build it to what i want as its my baby. Sort of a steering issue, to which i am not puting a lift on yet till i rebuild the entire front end. It would be a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new truck. I cringe at dropping $10,000 for a 12ft rotary shredder for my tractor let alone 40-60k for a new truck. Costs as much as a 2 bedroom home in my area. Swear prices have become rediculous.
That’s why I recommend a leveling kit to most people. 33’s and a 2-2.5” lift on the front is plenty for most people. You keep gas mileage somewhat conservative, you won’t be complaining about how tall your bed is (if you actually “use” your truck like I do), and if your short like me, it’s not too hard to get in the cab without steps 😂
2011 Suburban on 26s from you guys. I've seen highway speed downshifts that are annoying. Its a 6 speed that isn't necessary. In city driving it has made it much more pleasant. 1st gear is way too short on a 5.3. Drives like a dream. Thanks gents.
A 2010-2011 is considered "getting up there in age"? *looks at my 02 avalanche z71 with 283,000miles that I'm considering lifting while doing a full suspension rebuild* *audible gulp*
Your videos have some solid information bro. Thank you for your time. You talked me out of a body lift and I'm kind of glad you did. I have a 6in suspension lift that's good enough. And sits on 35
#6- "Also keep in mind if you have a truck and you have it financed and if it has a warranty on it if you get a lift that requires you cutting into the vehicle then you lose and you invalidate your warranty on your vehicles to only put a 6-inch Lift or better if the vehicle is paid off !"
I’d only lift a diesal or like the old chevy gassers that had an Allison transmission. Idk if any of the other brands put the badass transmissions in the gassers but chevy for sure did
Some things to keep in mind are number 1 I think l he probably fucked up some numbers there, that seems impossible. 2 that truck is on a fucking sema level lift, the average dude isn't going that high. And 3 it was towing in the clip he used so I have to assume his numbers were from towing too. I have an 09 jk with a 2.5 inch lift on 35s and I get 15mpg
That's a 2500 with a gas engine on an any level lift towing a car, so kind of an extreme scenario and 2mpg makes sense. But if you do a 4" lift on a 1500 you'll probably get 13mpg
Word to the wise, I’ve had multiple lifted trucks in the past but I will tell you your best to not lift a “tow vehicle” especially the gasser trucks. I’ve tested 4:56, and 4:88 gears at the end of the day, the ride suffered, mileage was terrible, and was not fun to drive because no matter what your losing a lot of torque just trying to turn the tires. Not to mention, you now have a lot of added stress to the axle springs which you may need traction bars to keep the axle from rolling. Also, hitching, and chain extensions can get a little annoying or expensive. Your best bet is the find a project truck, and use as a weekend runner or off roading hence is the reason for a lift anyways.
This falls into the shit i already knew catagory. I will say, its nice javing a truck with 265s factory. I can run 33s and not worry about a thing. Especially with torsion bars cranked and 4 gear trans.
Depends on what model you buy. The H3 has a little better mileage, partly because it's smaller than the H1 and 2. I've driven an H3 which got, like, 14 or 15 mpg on the highway. I've also driven an H1 that got 4 mpg. It just depends on the model
My F150 3.7L V6 is lifted on 33s. With 3.73 limited slip. Got almost 13mph doing about 50-60mph. The probably is it's a stock size wheel package you could get on the newer F150s, and I can't seem to be getting more than 10mpg in the city. I agree with the more gears. A 6 speed auto still needs to downshift to accelerate.
Yup I leveled on 33s and got horrible gas mileage and now I'm stock highet with blocks removed with 12 wides with some 420s and I get about 20mpg on my 2018 sierra 1500.
Naanak65 yeah what’s crazy to me is I drove about 200 miles on the interstate and got about 17, but driving on curvy with hills up where I live I was able to get 25.1 now granted I wouldn’t have got it that high if I wouldn’t have noticed it was up around 21-22 so I just started milking it to see how high I could get it lol
I pulled my 8000 lbs camper from Wisconsin to Wyoming bucking a 60 mph headwind most of the way, got 6.5 mpg going 70 mph. This is my absolute worst ever mpg. (6.8 V10 4.30 axle Ex.)
If you increase fuel economy after adding larger, heavier wheels/tires, ruining any aerodynamic efficiency, and running your power train through an unmatched gearset (as in, stock axle ratios and tires more than 3" over stock) something is way, way wrong. You can lean out the fuel map to reduce consumption but that will also reduce power. All that being said though, regardless of what you drive and how it's built, driving style is the biggest influence on real world fuel economy.
rcairforceone leaning your AF ratio on a diesel will actually make it have more power, common rail diesels run better and last a lot longer at a leaner mixture, have lots of soot and over fueling just wastes fuel and eventually fouls up your injectors and has a power decrease
Where should I get fold down and up steps for my truck, I want to put them on a 1995 Ford f350. I probably would want to have it professionally done, because I know I'll mess it up
I don't necessarily want much of a lift on my truck, but I would like it to look a bit more aggressive maybe a small lift which will also level the truck. I'm thinking 35 inch tires, what would you recommend? 2016 Ram L-Longhorn 4×4 w/ecodiesel.
I lifted my 94 Blazer the trouble I ran into was pinion angle with the drive shaft, I broke housing on transferase fixed it, now broke housing on transmission I've called the people who lifted it, the manufacturer of lift talked to a few mechanics and it all comes down to this drive line. Have you ran into this at all
Yes we have heard of intense angles breaking off shafts before. Thats why you always want to get kits with the correct spacers and or differential drop brackets.
@@CustomOffsetsTV yeah I just went in told the guy I wanted to lift the Blazer he quoted me for the rough country 6"lift and that's what they installed but geez it's been a headache now I should've just left it and leveled it or something.
I have an 09 Dodge Ram with the 5.7 Hemi and want to put a big enough lift on it to just throw some 33 x 12.5's on it. It's already a gas guzzler now but is lifting it and putting those size tires on it gonna have me working 3 jobs just to pay for gas?
If you add more wind resistance *ie: a lift* and make the engine work harder to drive the truck *larger and heavier wheels and tires*, mpg will suffer.
Nice, trying to find out if getting a leveling kit for the front of my truck or with Bilstein adjustable front shocks? Any feedback will be appreciated.
What about changing out the rotors and brake pads? Next week I'm having the Bulletproof 12" Suspension kit, (stage 4) installed on my 2015 Tacoma with 22x14 wheels and 37x13.50x22 Nittos plus 4.88 gears. With all the extra weight should I get beefier rotors & brake pads? Your suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated👍
I have a complete stock 2003 Silverado 1500, I wanna lift it but I wanna save on gas mileage. What can I get that wont effect my gas mileage much but will also give me a more aggressive look?
@@PapaHouie sorry to disappoint you but 6'1 is average where i'm from, you consider 6'1 tall? my ex was 6'1 lol Edit: what i was saying is that you can't flex when you are 6fucking1ft lmao
Regret lifting my old truck . Got tired of paying $1,400 for tires every 35000 miles, gas was mileage was horrible , suspension parts replacement, finding parking, I'm sticking to stock with nice rim's & tires
So I know nothing about lifts and maintenance i just bought a silverado and I was told I need front and rear forks and bearings. Should I buy the lift kit and have them swap all that out or put in forks and bearings then go to install a lift
I have a 96 suburban with linex black paintjob, 6 inch lift and not really tires on it, but I really appreciate this channel :D:D:D:D:D::DD::DD corrected :P
I have a 2018 CANYON and i want a 4 inch lift wit 20/9's will i have to recalibrate the transmission? And is it worth lifting or should I jus leave it stock?
Thank god that wasnt just me that lost it when they called a 2010 truck "getting up there in age". Lol, Im in my 02 z71 with 283k, I would call that "getting up there in age".
Custom Offsets haha of course, i wouldn’t mind brand spanking new shocks for a better ride, but the level kits I’m looking at don’t say anything about needing longer control arms or longer shocks?
If you put a 2" lift kit on a nissan navara, will it take away the ride comfort of the truck? We all know navara rides like a car and not like a truck so I'm curious about it.
Krypticate One of the absolute first things I would consider doing before I lifted my truck is check to see what gear you have first. Then make sure that it is compatible to the tire size you want to go to. If not there is a mathematical equation you can go by to choose the right gear to upgrade to so that your truck no matter the size tire and can be as equivalent to stock as it can get. My truck had the worst gear in a 2011 Silverado 1500 5.3 liter 4x4. It was 3.08 gear. I upgraded to 4.56 gears. Wow! Regearing was worth every penny. Don't fear the gear!
T BEECH Tn. Same as my 2005. It said it had 2.73s, but it turned out to be 2.42s. No big deal jumping to 33s as factory are 265,70,17. Anything over i need/want to regear to 4.10s.
Shit... just ordered the forged wheels 13 inch wide for my prius... but I saved money and asked for no cut but the center cap... Will this effect my top speed? Jk
bros I got one can you with any lift let's say RC for example whole 7.5 suspension lift with RC upgraded struts ..... now can I put different shocks or coil overs or anything of a different brand or style on my RC lift ....know what I'm sayyiiinnn lol
