Joseph is a throw back . One would call him an old soul . Love his content . If you love everything about your rifle this doesn’t apply to you . But if you’re not happy with something , he covered almost everything . Can’t say enough about how a suppressor changed my X-bolt .300 Win Mag .
Excellent content Joseph. Im seriously considering taking the SDI courses to become a Gunsmith and this video just makes me want to get my education even more. Thanks.
I have two rifles both wooden stocks that shoot 1/2 MOA, never bedded either of these. Scared to change them. I've bedded other rifles that didn't shoot and had great results though.
I bedded the action and the first inch and half of barrel then free floated the barrels on my last 2 rifles. It gained some but i wasn't satisfied. I ended up fully bedding the barrels and it made the biggest difference on both the rifles. Especially made both guns good across many different loads. I know nowadays free floated barrels are the rage but from what ive seen on my last two rifles (both sporter weight barrels) fully bedding the barrels was definitely the way to go.
Browning X-Bolt triggers are easy to adjust. ;) Just turn the screw in all the way to compress the coil spring, then back it out until it's the weight you like. Voila! a crisp, light trigger. Done dozens of them.
Ron’s still on the channel. Joseph is just an occasional addition. I find Joseph to be of great knowledge and experience, he might not have been hunting as long as Ron, but he knows his stuff better than most people
It's rare these days to find a gentleman that can communicate his points and information so well. I enjoyed listening and There's a lot of great information here.
I always glass bed my rifles. It's fun and takes out a lot of variables. I did my last rifle with JB Weld and Sno Seal leather wax as a release agent.👍👍👍👍
I once had a Browning AB3 in 270 WSM. A cheap plastic gun. It shot Federal factory hunting rounds amazingly well! Practically put all shots in the same hole at 100 yards, all day long! Like a dummy I sold it because I just couldn't learn to like the slick plastic stock😮
On this Jan 1st just turned, I Just wanted to wish you a Happy New Year Ron. Keep up with all of your great content. Best wishes to you and your loved ones for this New Year. God Bless ✌️😎👍
Great tips. One of these days i am going to try bedding a rifle. Maybe my M48 Yugo Mauser, since it is not really a collector's item. One thing to point out is that some aftermarket stocks come with pillar bedding or an aluminum bedding block installed. I love laminated wood, so i tend to pay attention to Boyd's and Stocky's.
browning has a terrible trigger. My tikkas have a superior trigger and they are cheaper rifles. The best factory rifle you can buy is a tikka t3x They shoot lights out. They have a adjustable 2.5-5.5lb trigger silky smooth action and the same cold forged hammered barrel you get on a 2000 plus dollar sako. Do yourself a favor guys and buy your rifles made in Finland
Ron - thanks for having Joseph join the show! Great session with very practical and sound tips to improve accuracy - along with wise advice about having a qualified expert gunsmith do the work any of us shouldn't do (if we're honest).
You just need to buy Tikka, and everything will be there from the factory. Thank you so much for the broadcast and the cool content. Merry Christmas and a happy New Year. Good health and hunting luck.
Yeah but he, the host, did say that he preferred an control feed action. I am in that same camp. Now there is nothing wrong with a push feed action like the Tikka, it is awesome. Just prefer a control feed that's all. 😀
@@jasonfarley7990 you have apparently only shot about 2 Tikkas and one had 9000 rounds down the tube and the other had been used for a prybar. On average they're smoother and more accurate than anything else at that price point. I'm not knocking on browning or Remington or anyone else for that matter but to call Tikka junk is just coming from a place of ignorance.
Oh my goodness!..Whatever that’s about!..No matter, Right? I liked your clear descriptions of how you do these things and will put them beside my own. Thanks! Pop
In 1981 I did all these except for a suppressor to a 1978 Ruger 77 that I had a 26 inch stainless steel .30-06 match barrel installed on. It still shoots like a dream with 1/2 to 1 inch groups and I've gotten several dozen elk over the past 4 decades. I had a friend who was a mechanical engineer/machinist/model maker for a major manufacturer and an Olympic team shooter. He suggested using Ultrabrite toothpaste instead of lapping compound for smoothing the bolt because it was easier to clean up. I don't know if Ultrabrite is still the same formulation, but it worked great for me.
I got a Sauer 100 in 308 after the 5.5x55 Swede fiasco. The bolt was horrible! I sat and just cycled the bolt for a couple 3 hours. Drove my wife a bit sensitive but much better now. The Tikka IMO is the best production rifle being made. Covers all the bases for accuracy.
I have had work done on all of my deer rifles with the exception of my Weatherbys. Trigger jobs and bedding the action. My Remington 700 LH started life as a .270 win. I had a gunsmith convert it to .300 win. Mag with a Krieger match grade barrel, pillar bedded the action, blue printed the action, custom muzzle brake and trigger and a Sako extractor. Shoots really well, sub MOA with factory ammo. I kept the original beautiful wood stock with the pistol grip cap and foreend cap. Original rifle was built in 1968.
Good video!! I like how you mentioned up front 1) the action of the firearm and 2) shooter comfort in operating the gun. I've found that once those two issues have been addressed and range time put in, everything else is gravy on the taters.
I have heard a lot of guys say that their Mosin Nagant 91/30 shoots more accurate with the bayonet on,,maybe true,,maybe not but maybe it's the harmonics you mentioned. I agree on the trigger pull ,,I have a Minchester Model 70 I hate the trigger on ,,it's a mid 2000's? Black Shadow and the trigger pull is awful ,,I've pulled more than 1 shot with it so it's sat for a few years now. I have been considering putting in a Timney trigger but my budget gets getting blown up and I can't purchase it yet..hopefully soon.
The best thing I ever did, was wear hearing protection, while actually hunting. The kind you can hear stuff, but when the bang comes, it is not an ear splitter. Caused me to quit flinching, in anticipation of the bang.
I like Ron because he is a true Professional! He knows his hunting, his rifle, his ammunition and he does not use profanity. Your children, grandchildren can watch Ron. Thanks, Ron!
Is there any advantage to having a schnabel style muzzle other than looking kind of vintage and hanging on brush as you drag it thru the woods? Love the barrel band too.
Kurt, some say that bump of a Schnabel (German for nose or beak or bill, I believe) is just cosmetic. Others claim it was first used on rather short forends to provide a tactile indicator for forward hand position and to prevent sliding too far forward so as to grab a hot barrel. The slim taper before the Schnabel bump reduces weight a smidgeon and slims the grip surface. I have Schnabels on several rifles and shotguns and like the look and feel, but it's no big deal. Of course, this is not on the muzzle as you wrote, but on the forend tip of the stock. Cheers.
Ah. I thought the muzzle end was the schnabel. I think Winchester had a light bolt action carbine with the Schnabel forend back in the 80's? Great looking rifle.@@RonSpomerOutdoors
Yes you're thinking of the M70 Featherweight. It had a Schnabel forend and still does. My favorite factory stock. But the muzzle is the very end of the barrel, not the stock. Sometimes the field of firearms needs a clearer definition of terms. @@Kurtdog63
Excellent video and great advice. As I watched I thought that you neglected the obvious, which is to keep the bore clean. Those "experts" that claim that they never clean their bore or wait until it loses accuracy are foolish IMHO. Why do competitive shooters clean on average after every 10 shots or so? Think of it this way - a pound of gun powder equals 7,000 grains. If each cartridge (example, 223 Remington) load is 25 grains, it means you are burning 1 pound of powder through the barrel (carbon, etc.) every 280 rounds. With larger calibers like 300WM we're talking less than 100 rounds. The point is, even 0.001 inch carbon buildup inside your chamber and bore not only affects the mechanical operation of your rifle, it changes the pressure inside the chamber. And we know what could happen with excessive pressure buildup.
I have to agree. One can keep his bore consistently clean. They cannot keep it consistently fouled. I wouldn't want to be at a match when "my accuracy starts to fall off" reminding me it's time to clean.
Each shooter can and should clean bores to whatever degree makes him/her comfortable. I've not seen evidence that all or even most competitive shooters clean after every 10 shots or so. Many of today's popular shooting events require dozens of shots with no time for cleaning anything. But you raise an interesting point about carbon buildup. Does it continue to increase shot by shot, or do subsequent bullets "scrape" away each new layer to a general consistency? I've seen no evidence that chamber pressures rise dramatically, if at all, in heavily fouled bores. I've shot some rifles as many as 200 times without cleaning the bore and without detecting any obvious increased pressure signs or loss of accuracy. On the other hand, I have many barrels that shoot to a different point of impact with freshly cleaned barrels, some settling down after one fouling shot, others not until 3 or 4.
I don't know, Chris. One could keep his bore consistently clean by cleaning down to bare metal after each shot, but beyond that, consistency changes with each new layer of carbon and copper/gilding metal. The fact that target shooters, including benchrest champs, fire at least five shots between bore scrubbings, suggests "consistently fouled" may be possible. @@chrisgunsandguitars1403
If you have an inexpensive factory barrel you should clean it often. Hand-lapped barrels that you find on custom or higher end factory guns don’t require cleaning as often (or maybe not at all) to maintain accuracy.
@@RonSpomerOutdoors I agree with you Ron on your example. Those benchrest shooters are quite particular on shot counts between cleaning. However, those PRS guy's are often firing hundreds of shots over several weekends, and are often the ones who say they don't clean until accuracy falls off. If it works for them fine. Eric Cortina had that very discussion with a PRS guy. Love your podcasts!
Best shirts are Pendleton wool! I like the cowboy-cut ones with snaps best. The one I'm wearing in this video is a cheap cotton plaid from a local farm store.
@@BrokenBarBox Same here.. But when someone is providing me information on a potentially dangerous subject, like maybe firearms. And then one day appears to be acting and dressing like a different person, it causes me to question the validity of the information he’s providing me..
@@MydicHertz so someone wears a different colored shirt to the office and now we need to double check his work. Sure. That doesn’t sound crazy at all…..
You should have hired a gunsmith to mount that scope. If you mount it any higher you’ll be able to shoot it from the hip. BTW. Will that Browning shoot 730 Yards?