Haha it is simple! Any one of them will do and get you started. It’s just once you get a feel for it you can fine tune exactly what you want. Ask any questions you may have
It's easy dude. There's TONS of them on ebay. I got a 60's Pentax Spotmatic with 2 lenses for $50 years ago and it's built like a Russian tank. Keep it simple and start out with a 70s SLR from Japan. They make the best cameras.
@@christopherwelch9438 Or a GDR camera like the Praktica BC1, plenty were made and you can get a m42 adapter from the PB mount for a great selection of lenses, I’ve had mine for nearly 2 years now and it works perfectly still. I picked it up with a 28mm f2.8, 50mm f1.8 and a 70-210mm f4.5/5.6 lenses with the PB mount for about £100 (~$150)
@@christopherwelch9438 Im very new but I want to get into this. After purchasing a camera of these kinds how can I get them digitally onto my phone to post? Is it quick and easy to do?
Unlike digital cameras that tend to do one thing or another better, any manual 35mm film camera will do the same things any other 35mm film camera will do. There are exceptions on the fringe but those functions such as the need for pin registration for multiple exposures in a graphic arts environment really are better accomplished with computer graphics now. I used to make title slides for television production, for example, but computers do the job better, cheaper and faster nowadays.
My first SLR was a Nikon EM that I got in perfect condition with a series E 50mm lens for $45 total. A very very capable camera at that price. Somehow by luck I was gifted an Olympus OM-2n (my favorite fully featured yet compact SLR). Sadly I sold the EM. I wish I kept it around as a beater, it was an amazing sidekick for quite a while.
great stuff. love the konica but i hate cameras that take mercury batteries. the correct adapters are usually twice the cost of the camera and i hate thinking about how many stops i might be off. I would throw in any Yashica from the late seventies mid eighties. like the Yashica fx-3 2000. these are usually all over ebay cheap and in good condition. they take modern batteries and they were a consumer grade camera so more than likely it went through a few rolls a film a year and went into the closet. There plastic bodied so not tank like durability but the build quality is excellent. Thanks!!
Thanks Zain! Ya I think that makes it a pretty obvious option especially with its newer body but same solid build style as the old classics. But not very well known at all.
Randall Stewart thanks for that info! Ya I really like the setup on this camera but as you said downside is internal metering (if that’s important to you) and I haven’t seen any lenses outside 50mm so that makes sense. Have you used anything outside a 50mm? Curious on image quality. Kinda want to find one now that you brought it up haha.
Randall Stewart I think I read in the manual that you can meter with 3rd party lenses but you have to take meter readings in stop down mode, which can be locked at least on my 801.
Fujica ST901 viewfinder only shows shutter speed via LED. It doesn't show aperture and shutter speed. Also to note, the shutter speed is rounded up. So 150 will show as 200 etc.
With Film, i do have these Issues with Contax and Yashica...it was only one, some decades ago....now there's a whole Familiy living under my roof...and they seem to grow anyway into more....must happen overnight, always...when i get these basterds....
LOL ! They justify themselves with things like " I'll just share lenses with your DSLR, you'll barely know I'm here.." and " my slightly more expensive friend here can work without any batteries "
I fished out a Minolta SRT-101 from a junk box inside a used Japanese camera store around 8 years ago for 3$, still works like a charm today. Nowadays it's at least 10x the price, it's really insane how much film camera prices have gone up
Did you think, that you would always be able to buy such a beautiful manufacture for pennies🤨? I'm so glad they went up in price😊 This is due to their creators. Out of respect for these extraordinary devices, I can pay as much as necessary. Each analog camera is an investment of capital. It will only gain in time. forget about the same with digital bodies. Plain electronic waste in hindsight
Great suggestions! Too many videos pick the cult cameras or expensive medium format gear. Your video is a lot more realistic. The Fujica SLRs are all good: 601,701,801, 901 etc., and they use regular LR44 batteries for the meter (and not obsolete mercury batteries.) The Pentax ME Super is excellent and with many lens options. I like the electronically controlled blade shutter better than the K1000's mechanical silk shutter. The older ME is basically the same camera but without the manual override for the shutter speed. The SuperProgram (or Super A) is the the same again but adds automatic aperture control. However it needs "A" series lenses to be fully automatic. With M series lenses the SuperProgram is functionally identical to the ME Super. The Minolta SRT series cameras are excellent, fairly cheap, have great Rokkor lenses, but do use 1.35v mercury cell batteries. There are several options for substitute batteries or simply use an external meter (or an iPhone meter app.) The Konica Auto S2 is a sweet camera with an excellent lens, but I would only buy one with a guarantee or in person. They are leaf shutter cameras and can have slow shutter blades due to old gummy oil. A CLA on a leaf shutter camera can be costly. Nikon EM - Great camera & plenty of lens options. Other suggestions: Ricoh KR-5 series cameras (Pentax K-Mount) Chinon CE or CP series cameras (also Pentax K-Mount) Pentax P series cameras, and Canon T-50. If shopping online, avoid descriptions such as: untested, have no way to test, worked last time I used it, might need a little work, and especially "as is." All those basically translate to broken.
@@graham_white Thanks. I forgot to add the Mamiya/Sekor TL & DTL. Built like the Minolta SRT cameras and can be really cheap. Internal light meters sometimes work but if not, go external or iPhone light meter app.
The Konica Auto S, S2 etc. leaf shutters can often be freed up/cleaned with a single drop or two of naphtha fluid (zippo lighter fluid). I've done a dozen of them. Works for many other of these small RF leaf shutter cameras. They're gummed up from disuse, not damage. Also - and maybe this is just me - I avoid the cheaper Chinon SLRs (the later AE and program ones from late 70s early 80s) like the plague. I've had too many come through my hands that just aren't worth trying to save. Really unreliable internals in my experience.
I stil use my Cosina CT1G from the early 80's, my first SLR after inheriting my dad's cheap italian Leica copy. It still works fine - and does things like night shoots that my Lumix compact won't! OK the battery case is held together with tape, the plastic's cracked and it's lost a screw from the top plate, it just keeps on trucking. If it breaks I'll just look for another K mount manual camera (like a Cosina!)
A good option at the higher end of the price range is the Canon EF. It's an electronic version of the "old" F-1 but didn't have support for exchangeable viewfinders or motor drives. It's extremely ruggedly built and you can find them for well under $100 (I got mine for $60). They have a more reliable Si meter as opposed to CdS. They can take 1.3V mercury or Zinc-air but have extremely convenient built-in voltage reduction circuitry to support alkaline or silver oxide batteries and maintain accurate meter function. Shutter-priority and manual shooting modes. Mechanical control for speeds above 1/2 s. FD lenses are supported by some great pre-EOS film cameras and can be easily adapted to mirrorless cameras too. Decent and inexpensive glass. It might not have been as widely produced as some other cameras though.
I was just telling someone else I prefer the Ef in the canon line. Although I got mine for about $15 at a thrift store I didn’t know they were so inexpensive. Definitely very underrated especially since it is fully functional without a battery. I thought it was well over 100 but I was definitely wrong
I've owned the EF and the F-1 and they have nothing in common except for some switches and levers. Internally they are completely different and the F-1 is a better camera mechanically. Also the F-1 meter, despite being CdS, is as precise as it gets.
I have had an EF since approximately 1979. It was totally reliable until I was stupid enough to break the exposure counter by accidentally turning it in the wrong direction. I carried it all through the mountains of Nepal and India around 1980/1981. Before I bought it, I wrote everything that was written about it from when it came out until I decided to purchase it. One of my main reasons for choosing it was the shutter priority automation. I highly endorse it in every way, although today I would prefer aperture priority automation. It will accurately meter at levels too dark to see, all the way down to thirty seconds. At the time, reviews said it was the best meter made. The Canon lenses were faultless. I have a Canon 200mm f4, a 50mm f1.4, a 28mm f2, and a 20mm f2.8, the 20mm being my favourite, particularly on narrow Himalayan streets. Also, a 100mm Soligor which was good but not a Canon. If you want a 35mm SLR, I would still endorse it, particularly for the price. It is a strongly built camera, the kind where you can feel how well it is put together. And I have and use Barnack Leicas and lenses, Contax IIa and lenses, and about a dozen Rolleiflexes, etc. I now realized that I was just about to name every camera that I ever owned. Thanks for listening, and a Canon EF won't do you wrong in a 35mm SLR, if you don't mind the weight of a full-size camera. And if you want an all manual rangefinder 35mm, don't overlook the Konica I and II.
The Fujica ST901 is a cracking camera, though it's a little tall. The ST605 and ST705 share a chassis which is a little smaller than the 01's (701, 801 and 901). Feature wise, they're pretty much identical otherwise. Personally, I would rate the ST705 over the ST901 purely for the size aspect. Not as small as an OM1, but not far off and a fraction of the price. With the lock on the lenses, the reason for the lock is for the open aperture meter coupling. If you are looking for one of these cameras or a compatible lens, look at the back of the aperture ring. There should be a small metal tab protruding from it backward towards the body of the camera. In some cases, people buy these lenses to mount on DSLRs and as the tab gets in the way, they file it off. If that happens, open aperture metering is a no-go.
pentax and nikon are both a very good choice; okay the nikon is not so much fun as you can't chose shutter speed ------------ if you have the opportunity, check condition of the viewfinder - I once had a pentax me with dirt on the matte glass fokus screen - you will never get rid of that! ------------------- fujica I would doubt there is so much glass to select? - Or would you recommend just to get M42 lenses?
Ya that’s my issue with that Nikon is no shutter selection . ALWAYS check viewfinder with any model for that exact reason. Depending on the model fujica ya you can use any m42 glass you just lose some automatic features with certain models because of a special pin in the Fuji m42 lenses. But yes I meant primarily because of the m42 mount not so much the Fuji lens line
Great video man, just looking to get into film shooting for my own setup and your suggestions are all very good! Definitely subscribed! I’m looking at the Minolta XM-G, Pentax ME Super, and maybe the Auto S2. Never shot film before.
Hey got a question! I found a Konica s3 online, is it better than the ones in this video? Cause you said something about the s3 being waaay more expensive. Thanks for your time!
The Konica s3 has a lot of improvements from the s2 so it is substantially better and yes price is usually around 150+ depending on condition compared to the s2 being 20-60
Good instructions/advise, I have been using film photography since 1967 Junior High School and prefer the simplicity of manual cameras with an internal light meter; Pentax Spotmatic was my favorite.
Pedro Meza thanks Pedro. I’ve been using the Spotmatic a lot lately for travel and using the lenses in my Fuji as well. It’s a solid setup. I agree I much prefer fully mechanical and manual. Thanks for the input!
haha. quite the opposite. Although now I am curious what the most expensive is. I believe a Leica sold for over a million recently. I could be thinking of something completely different though.
@@justsomeasshole7388 It's very close minded to think that "everyone" has had a bad year. Not because you had a bad one means it's the same for everybody. Take care
I am using canon a1 (£130 fully serviced) with 28, 50, 135, 35-135. My backup is the tank, Canon T90 (£160 serviced). For EF which I have plenty of lenses, I use canon eos 1n (£170), for backup I use canon eos 100 (£20), and eos 1000fn (£23). Digital is different of course but I use film these days. 😢 is addictive.
dj heheheheh very true. A lot of options from the 90s especially. Hard to cover them all. Tried to stick to a few more mechanical options that are fairly easy to find and have a good vintage look. I’m sure I’ll be doing another one soon with different options.
@@graham_white sounds good, thank you for replying and good to see you'll be making a video on it. Sticking to known ones is entirely fair for beginners, regardless of cheaper unknowns. I am sorry if I sounded exasperated at the time!! regards
Great video, next time can you please include the names of the cameras in the description? I don't know about everyone else but I was struggling trying to spell out these cameras 😂. Otherwise fantastic video!
Nice to see the Minolta 201 getting some love. Yup, built like a tank. I've had one from new and shot an unimaginable number of rolls with it. If the shutter starts sticking in sub-zero winter landscape shooting get it cleaned and lubed and it will be good for another few decades. Everything else just keeps working. The lightmeter battery is unobtainable, the replacement is slightly less voltage so play with the F stops to find a compensation factor.
@@graham_white Just get one of the MR9 adapters. It has a built in resistor to lower the voltage to 1.35v with a modern 625 cell. I use them in all of my mercury battery cameras...
The Konica Autoreflex T3! Sharp images, extremely sturdy build, and lenses are incredibly cheap as the mount style is so underused. Inherited one from my grandfather and I love it
I actually have one and haven’t gotten around to it yet. Assume it’s similar to the srt since they are both pretty clunky. It’s probably a cheaper by also
Excellent video, as someone looking for good advice on where to start with film photography I got a lot from this. New follower, now to go through your other vids. Have a great day.
Otokichi786 very solid lineup. I agree on the FG or fx-3 but they are both 30-50 more than a EM. Have you shot a Konica auto s2? Although I believe the build is better in the canon G the huge viewfinder and super easy focus pull make me wanna learn more towards the Konica. Kinda like the awkward boxy body also. Both solid options though. Thanks for sharing your great lineup with everyone!
@@lexlayabout5757 I totally agree, ME super will put u off if u r a fan of manual. Other than that, its great, its lightweight is just amazing for hours of continuous shootin
I am planning to get the Canon Ti so I can throw my EF glass on it. However, the fully mechanical Film Cameras not even needing the battery and the price makes it really appealing
Great list Graham. I learned on a borrowed Minolta SRT for my photography I class way back in 1990 and it's a great camera. Something I'd add to your list is the Asahi & Honywell Pentax Spotmatics. They came before the K series (K2, KM, K1000 etc) and are identical to them except Pentax switched to a bayonet mount lens. The Honeywell is just a rebadged Asahi for the American market. They come with M42 Super Takumar lenses that would work on the Fujica you talk about. No one wants the spotmatics so they're cheap and extremely durable... I've had 2 for 20 years and they work unfailingly.
@@graham_white I don't know. A camera store guy read me the riot act for using a 60s Asahi Pentax Spotmatic because it was an outdated system. 20 years ago I paid $50 for it and got 2 lenses and a lens hood. And it's unfailingly reliable and the meter is still 100% accurate. Still using it today. Go figure.
Totally agree, great value and the glass is also very nice. I actually have a few MX bodies I need to repair and will be interested in trying out. They look very similar to the k1000 as far as function and settings.
Graham White I think the MX is a mini version of the KX. But, the K1000 is practically the same. What sorts of issues due your have with your MX cameras?
@@JP1050x ya I thought they looked just about identical except for the name. could be just updated prism and meter but haven't looked much into it yet. I haven't fully diagnosed them yet (I have a long list of camera repairs) but I know one has a stuck film advance, both need new seals and general CLA I think another has some rust problems. Both were part of larger camera lots full of needed repairs.
I don't know for the US but here in Europe, Practika is very cheap... Classic M42 Mount, for some, built in light meter with no mercury's battery type, metalic shutter blade so no holes like the cloth ones, build like a russian tank not too practical to use but likely unbreakable You can find some MTL50 with a 50mm 1.8 around 20-30 euros, one of the models, the VLC has even an interchangeable prism like the nikon F (can be found around 100-150 euros) And that is for 35mm but you also have some cheap medium format option not in the Practika brand but all the brands from the 40-50's with theirs folding cameras
Those are some I want to get into and explore more. I have an old agfa folding medium format rangefinder that I got dirt cheap just have to adjust focus and then test it out. Also have a few praktica as well I need to test. You are right though very affordable and from what little I know seem to be descent quality. But yes not as easy to come by in the states except online perhaps. Thanks for the input!
The best bargain camera is Minolta, built like tank, I have a SRT100x, its a budget level SRT camera, but man, can use it for self-defence! Great lens selection too, not as great like Nikon or canon, but very creamy and sharp! Check out other video for Minolta on this channel!!!
I'm glad you didn't include the mentioned K1000 - over-hyped and sellers are asking up to $250 now. The ME-Super is not equivalent to the K1000, it's introduction was 2 generations later and the K1000 was old tech even when introduced. The auto/manual eqivalent of the K1000 was more like the K2 - a super camera but expensive. The K1000 was really a Spotmatic with a bayonet mount, and Spotmatics are much cheaper.
I don't have the faintest idea why everyone is gearheading over a dead body that does nothing but expose a piece of film to light. The camera does not do anything, spend ur money on the lens and stop thinking which color and model shirt you want.
Although correct it doesn’t do much for the image compared to modern cameras with varying digital sensors and pixels. Something that feels good in someone’s hands and how comfortable they are with a specific model does play a factor in their shooting. Also ease of use for functions and accuracy/ variety of functions for exposure etc. If I walked around with a 4xl pink shirt when I feel more comfortable in a medium grey, mentally…. It makes a difference.
Yashicas are still cheap ! You can always upgrade later to Contax/Zeiss and keep them as backup bodies. Yashica FX and FR bodies are easy to find and the ML glass is awesome. You can also get a Yashica 230AF and some autofocus primes for less than 100USD, they arrived late in the game and couldn't keep up with the competition. The 24, 28, 50 and 60mm primes are all very sharp and contrasty !
Great video. Do you use your left eye to shoot? You don't seem to be a lefty. I'm asking because I have eye issues and need to look through the view finder using my left eye and it seems strange to me. Thanks.
That is a good option, a friend of mine has one but personally I’ve never seen one pop up in any of my searching. Except of course for eBay. At least where I’m at I find the M & ME super much more commonly available
Great video. I'm a Minolta guy and I was pleased to see that you mentioned one of the excellent SRT line. You made me consider buying that Fujica too. I subscribed to your channel after this. Thanks!
Zisis Kardianos thanks! Haha the SRTs are great. The X-700 was my first film camera and I still really enjoy it. Would love to get a x-1 or XM. Definitely look into the Fujica. Great. System for that price. Much appreciated! I shot the Minolta x700 with a 50 1.4 400iso pushed to 1600 with a prism filter a few weeks ago. Soon as I get some color dev I’ll get that done and share the results.
I would add the OM-10, OM-20 as budget versions of the OM-1, OM-2 (also not that expensive). Tiny size compared to other SLRs of the time, huge viewfinder and awesome glass :)
Michael Prior true. I really like the OM system and have always wanted to try out a OM-2. The OM-10 are just under $100 if I’m not mistaken. The 2 was very popular and a few hundred last time I checked. Very good glass and well made compact slr. Thanks for the input!
Michael Prior hmm I may have spoke to soon. Been a while since I’ve looked prices for them. Seem to be right about that same price. Depending on working and cosmetic condition of course.... actually very tempted now 🤦♂️ thanks a lot Michael. Jeeze. Haha.
@@graham_white Go for it! I couldn't decide between the OM-1 or 2 so I bought one of each :D ... Plus an OM-10 for higher risk activities like cycling and beach going
I bought my first SLR in 1970. It was a Canon TL and I believe I paid around $300 for the body and maybe $250 for a 35-135mm Canon f3.5 FL zoom. Today, you could probably find that kit for around $65. There are tons of great deals and you don't have to spend a fortune to get a high quality camera with excellent glass. Spending 10-20 time more on a camera, won't guarantee you better results. Think of it like a car, a $5000 car will get you to work, so will a $100,000 car. Status and brand comes into play in camera gear. I see a lot of videos on the Contax T3, $3000 for a used point and shoot camera. If you have money to burn, I guess, go buy one.
Great video. Would be really informative/helpful if you showed samples of photos after each camera description for a little bit of visual content. But awesome otherwise. Always looking at film cameras.
I really appreciate that Pentax used open lens mount systems: both m42 and K. That means there were lots of m42 (like the Fuji in the video) and K-mount cameras from competitors that don't get mentioned much anymore. For example Ricoh built some terrific K-mount cameras (m42 as well) that can be had for $10. My favorite is the KR-10 Super. These were rebranded by many retailers including Sears (KSX Super). Electronic, lightweight, manual and aperture priority, great VF and ergonomics. I've had a dozen or so go through my hands and haven't found one that didn't work perfectly. Ricoh kit lenses (also rebranded as Sears) are very good and very cheap, and you can always step up to Pentax glass. Another manufacturer that followed Pentax from m42 to K was Chinon. The m42 Memotron series featured shutter speeds up to 1/2000 sec and aperture priority that worked with almost any m42 lens. Chinon's CM-4 and CM-5 (K-mount) are also worth mentioning. Small, plastic, lightweight, all manual and all mechanical. If you like the mechanical K1000, but don't like the price or the weight, the CM series is terrific. Chinon cameras aren't the most common, but they're not exactly rare, and they're a super cheap way to buy into the m42 or K system.
wow thanks for all the valuable information Nathon. Ya my issue with Ricoh and Chinon is they are hard to find in good shape (from my experience) cause they were low end and not as highly sought after so they aren't taken care of as well. But I have heard the glass for both, more so Ricoh, is quite exceptional. I did pick up a Ricoh 50 recently so I am curious to try that since I believe it is the K mount as you mentioned. Thanks again for sharing!
@@graham_white You're right. They are relatively low end. However, what I've found is that a lot of non-photographers bought them, thinking that a "real" camera would take better pictures than their Instamatics. They do, but only if you know how to use them. I think many people got frustrated with the SLR, chucked it in the back of the closet, and never touched them again. Many that I've seen are actually in mint condition because they're never been used. Either way, it's a cheap was to get started in film photography, and if someone decides they enjoy it, they can upgrade to name-brand Pentax cameras and lenses because of the open mount system.
Pentax did not intorduce the M42 mount, that was by Zeiss and it seemed to be an open standard. Pentax did introduce the K mount, and they made it an open standard.
Thanks Greg! I think they are making a comeback for sure. There are so many viable and affordable options to pick from so this is only a small sample for sure,
I will check to see what all I have, they have been stored in a temperature control storage. Im 70yrs old and my expiration date is not too far down the road and I need to let them go.
I would discount ANY camera that relies on electronics to function properly. The electronics on these cameras are 40-50 years old and quite a lot of them are now breaking down. Having one manual shutter speed is not functioning properly so for reliability you want a FULLY Manual camera if you want it to last. It's 2021 now and prices are still increasing but there are still bargains to be had given the criteria above. You want a camera that can operate and fire at all shutter speeds without a battery? You want a camera that has access to good quality and reasonably priced lenses? And you want it to be under $100? Here's my top two picks, both of which can be used without a battery. 1. Nikkormat FTn or FT2 Both cameras are built like a tank and both are fully manual. They give you access to thousands of pre-Ai and AI/AIs Nikkor lenses, and some of the pre-AI lenses can be picked up for 40-60 dollars. Only recently I bought an FTn and an FT2 for under $50 each! 2. Konica Autoreflex TC or T1, T2, T3. All of these are well built and fully manual and give you access to some very good and reasonably priced Konica lenses. Recently I purchased a TC with 50mm f1.8 for under $50, and a T2 body again for under $50. It might be more convenient using cameras that rely on electrics to function but the electronics are failing on these cameras. If the electrics fail all you're left with is an expensive paperweight whereas a manual camera can probably be repaired. I'm speaking from experience...I've had a Nikon F3 and a Nikon FE electronics fail in the last couple of years, and if a pro camera like the F3 can fail, what are the odds on a consumer camera like the EM pick above lasting?? For longevity and value it has to be manual cameras.
Completely agree with you. I personally use about 80/90 only mechanical cameras because I don't want to worry about failures. However, I have a bit more experience shooting film than the average person. Part of the reason I chose the electrical bodies I did is for those who might be new to film and want something easier to use, or less knowledgable and might need a better starting point. Its easier to by a cheap body that, yes may fail, learn the process and then decide if you want to upgrade to a more reliable system or different stystem at all, than it is to buy a more expensive body and then be turned off from film all together. I like your picks for sure though although I have had bad luck with the Konica auto reflex series. Ill be sure to include your feedback into my updated 2021 video soon. Thanks!
@@graham_white Hi and thanks for the reply, but I still have to disagree. There's no need to "upgrade" to a more reliable system if you can for example get a Nikkormat FT2 and lens for the same outlay as a Nikon EM and lens at the outset. Sure the EM might be easier to use in program mode, but what would they learn from doing that? The shutter speed/ Aperture/ISO relationship would be easier to learn on a fully manual camera, and once they get their head around that they have the groundwork to be able to pick up any camera and use it. There are plenty of videos for beginners explaining it all, and let's be honest.....if it's costing you for film and developing, you'll start learning pretty quickly, right? For me the fully manual is a no brainer because... a) It forces the beginner to understand the basics of exposure b) The camera is much more reliable, and c) If it does break down it has a much better chance of being repairable. I admire what you're doing in getting people into film photography, but I'd be dubious about suggesting cameras which rely on electronics to function. Apart from my problems with the F3 and FE, I'm hearing reports of a lot of Canon A1's and AE-!'s electronics failing and also Ricoh's. Apart from Nikkormat and Konica you should also consider the Canon FTb, another fully manual with lots of inexpensive FD lenses available when you're compiling your 2021 list. And, best of luck with your channel :)
I think a rather glaring omission is the Olympus OM1. They're about $60 on ebay. Full system of Zuiko lenses and very dependable, so falls in your well-thought out criteria. I can't agree with those that recommended the OM10 - NOT dependable at all.
I just checked the sold section of eBay and see nothing under 150 unless it’ has issues or is in questionable unknown condition. I personally love the om 1/2s and if they were 60 in full working order I’d own a dozen of them. I agree I’ve never had good experiences with om10 or OMGs. Again this video is highlighting simply 5 options. There are dozens and dozens of great options to choose from
@@graham_white Yeah OM series have been well over 100 USD for 2 or 3 years at least. They've always been sought after. Last one I had and sold was OM1n with winder, 50/1.4 and 3rd party macro zoom for $160 two years ago .... and it sold in 3 days. And *both* lenses had fungus and etch marks that I couldn't clear because I gave up getting all the way into the Zuiko (and chose never to service a Zuiko again that day). *Crazy* amounts of contact cement in the element groups holding everything together rather than nicely engineered set-screws/retaining-rings by better makers. The Olympus glass itself is fantastic, but after a few experiences like this with Zuikos now I really question the construction as well as the coatings.
What about the Praktica cameras ? Prakticas are simple to use, fully mechanical cameras with a M 42 lens mount( You can use German , Japanese or Soviet made lenses on it). The only electronic component of the MTL, Super TL and LTL series is the light meter and on the MTL 5B it is powered by silver oxide or lithium cell( So you can still find cells for it even today). I have a Praktica MTL 5B with a Pentacon 50 mm/f 1.8 Auto lens, which is in good condition. Can't wait for the weather to get better and go out for a photo shoot with the Praktica.
Ive had a lot of people bring up the prakticas and to my limited knowledge they are fairly good. They aren't as prominent in the States though so personally I haven't come across one to include in my options. But I have no doubt they a good option at that price point.
@@graham_white Prakticas are pretty common here, in Europe. Especially Eastern Europe. If you could get your hands on a well looked after camera, it will be a fantastic edition to your kit.
Or you can go out like I did a bought the vary sharp looking two tone chrome , PENTAX MX with a 50mm f 1.4 lens , OR go all the way and buy a PENTAX LX PLATINUM model
I just wonder why there is the ME super but no honorable mention of the MX. Both are great cameras, they are not very much different, but one is built for manual fan (MX) with apeture and shutter speed in the finder, one purely for auto but shouldn't use manual because of the weird design of shutter speed buttons (ME Super). Both are very compact and lightweight, beautiful design also
I honestly prefer the MX over the Emmy for the mechanical aspect of it. There’s no mention of it because it has a much higher price point then the cheaper ME. There are plenty of great budget options, and definitely a lot of honorable mentions. Just not enough time in the day to mention them all
Also a great option. there are a LOT of possible options, I stuck with ones I have personal experience shooting so far just so I'm more comfortable recommending them and have hands on knowledge.
@@graham_white now you need to get a Yashica :D it's like a better Pentax Super you mentioned in the video, technically a bit worse than a Pentax MX, I guess? But the 1/2000s makes it unique.
Just noticed that all of the cameras mentioned in this video are manual focus. For those of you who want slightly more modern touch yet still in the same budget range, I know at least 2 options: - Nikon F-501 a.ka N2020: one of Nikon earliest attempts in AF SLR. Works well with ALL Nikkor lenses *with apperture ring* on it (except pre-AI). AFS lenses are practically useless on this body (need newer bodies like F80, F90, or F100). - EOS 55 a.k.a Elan II. Eye-focus control is cool. If you already have a Canon fullframe DSLR, then you can use the lenses on that body.
Ya I prefer manual, autofocus isn’t as good as modern cameras so me personally I don’t both with them. There are models that are great For sure and autofocus is nice depending on how reliable and quick you need it to me. Again I prefer the full mechanical and manual aspect of film so I go that route with lenses as well.
Canon EOS Rebel Ti, plastic automatic, sure, but it's a SLR that can use modern EF mount lenses no problem, much cheaper than the other options from the end of the film era while still useable, also good for me as it saves on lenses and it's similar to my Rebel T6 so it's not a hurtle to relearn
There are a looot of great options around that same Ti time frame. I need more experience there before giving my opinion, the cheaper plastic bodies always scares me from pulling the trigger in those thrift finds since working status is unknown.
@@graham_white totally fair, mine was sourced from amazon since my area is a bit on the barren side for used hardware or devices. But being cheap and not much looked for it's made a decent introduction for me, and has yet to show issues, I amd considering getting one of the fancier models that had the old Eye-control system just for novelty's sake and fun, even if it's not perfect (or at least not as good as the new versions Canon is just rolling out) it could still be useful when it works. That and I'm always charmed by oddball hardware, an odd subset of stuff in any hobby is always fun, and sometimes much easier to get XD
I've been shooting a Zenit TTL that I got for £25 with a Helios lens and it's holding up nicely, would definitely recommend. Only issue is that the light meter works based off of GOST and not ISO so it should technically be slightly off but I've never noticed any issues.
Jack Walker I have two bodies. One has a busted asa button (but works) and the other stuck shutter and haven’t fully diagnosed. I like them and I enjoy shooting my zennit, but I just don’t trust the Soviet/Russian quality control.
i love the Konica gears (especially SLRs like T3n or FT-1) with the super Hexanon glasses. But the auto S2 works with mercury batteries which is a downer imho. Most of the camera body requiring mercury batteries are sold for a lesser price of course.
These cameras were all from when I was in middle school to high school. I couldn't afford any of them, but I read photo magazines, which had ads, and lusted over them. When I finally got into college and saved up around $200, I was finally able to buy one. I had settled on the Pentax mount, had even bought a couple of lenses, so which body did I buy? The Ricoh XR2s. It wasn't compact like the Pentax M series but it had a shutter speed dial. Unfortunately, I found out later, if it got even slightly damp (the Maid of the Mist ride), the electronic shutter would lock open (managed to fix it with a hair drier). Used that camera for many years. Around 1999-2000 I discovered a lot of those cameras and lenses I was lusting after 20 years previously were now available on E-bay cheap, and I ended up with quite a few, mainly Pentax and Ricoh bodies and lenses of all sorts. I found out the hard way about leaking foam and sticky diaphragms, though. I still have this stuff packed away somewhere, together with a bunch of film (including bulk 35mm movie film) bought off eBay in my fridge. Maybe I will take them out someday. Sort of difficult to get film processed anymore, though.
Interesting but about the damp part. Film isn’t to hard to get processed. It’s made a comeback. There are 4 labs not to far from me 3 opened up within the past 1-3 years and plenty take shipping. I develop my own most times now
@@graham_white Yeah, the cameras with electronic shutters of this era (e.g. the Pentax ME but not the MX) used some form of resistance-capacitance (RC) circuit to measure time - when they get damp it shorts across the capacitor. In the case of my XR2s it would lock the shutter open (which meant if you rewound the film without putting the lens cap on it would fog the entire roll). It happened twice, once on a canoe trip, which resulted in a big repair bill, the second time I took a hair drier I borrowed off the motel's manager to it and it started working again after a half hour. Otherwise the camera was a champ - I can't remember what happened to it in the end, I think it just wore out. Around here (Malaysia) all the minilabs processing C-41 are gone - I'm sure I could find one if I looked but 20 years ago they were everywhere! Maybe I should dig out my old Paterson tank and changing bag, and shoot some B&W (I have several bulk rolls in the fridge).
My camera is an ME Super and man it has betrayed me far too often. The two buttons for selecting exposure are awful and break easily. The worst thing is the shutter failing to cock when you wind on, particularly when it's cold. It seems like everyone elses MEs end up with the same issue. I use it because it's what I've got, but I absolutely would not recommend it.
my research agrees with you that those buttons fail and are not very reliable. But I have had people tear into my saying I don't know what I am talking about ha. I do enjoy using the camera but I do so with the expectation that it will most likely fail me eventually.
@@graham_white yeah I must say, It's lovely to use when it works, I do wish it had a regular dial for shutter speed. The dream would be if they had made the MX with an auto mode because that seems to be all the good parts of the ME but with none of the crap
Hi Graham. Great and informative vid, thank you. I'm surprised that you didn't find a Canon to include there. Ftb is a good, cheap plain body and FD glass is superb. Only an observation, not a complaint!!
I actually have one of those and a FT. I haven’t shot them however and rarely see them so I wasn’t sure I’d build quality lacked or if they had poor light meters or simply were not highly desired. I assume it’s similar to a Minolta srt? Just didn’t want to include it before I knows more about it. I definitely want to do another video with other options. Thanks!
Well thought out video.....I bought a Chinon CG-5 only a few weeks ago for £28.00 .in great condition Japanese build quality and as it has a k mount you can put great Pentax lenses on it. I Would also recommend the Olympus OM 10 fantastic glass and easy to handle.
I have a fe OM-10s I need to repair so I can use. I’ve heard nothing but good things and yes definitely a good deal. Honestly have never played with the chinons or done much research into them. I am intrigued they have that mount though. Definitely makes it more appealing. Thanks for the tip
Unknown Surgeon a lot of people have mentioned the canon eos series made in the 80s/90s. Fully electronic but dirt cheap with more features. Just lack mechanicall capabilities and the classic look.
@@graham_white Not all, but most of em' looks already like they've seen better days, my camera is a Minolta X-7 (Full-auto XG-E) costs me around 30 bucks for the body (Rp. 480.000), it's lens....a hundred bucks (Rp. 1.600.000), not even in mint condition.
Hello Graham, rn I'm really into film camera. I'm not a photography student.. But I wanted to have film camera on my own. Any camera suggestions and brands? For someone who are not in this field 😅😄 I want to take pictures for my memory.
Really great selection! Thanks a lot! You really showed me a few models i wasn't aware of yet. Another great M42 mount Camera i could suggest would be the Ricoh TLS 401 which has a switchable pentamirror system that lets you look through 2 viewfinders. One on the back (like on any normal SLR) and one on top. It's a little on the heavier side so if you don't want a camera that weighs too much, you may wanna get something else. It's also fully manual and only needs a battery for the lightmeter, that switches between 2 modes. It also comes in 2 colors. Silver or Black. The Black model seem to be a rarer to find than the silver model. The bigger prism casing reminds me a bit of a Nikon F2. Viewfinder is not super bright (because it's not a real glass prism) but you can still work work with it pretty well.
As a 70's-80's camera store manager and 20 years as a Fuji Rep, I would correct you that the ST801 is a far better camera than the ST901. The LED meter read out allowed you to adjust @ 1/4 stop increments and it went to 1/2000 sec shutter speed. The 901 was rather repair-prone. Another great point is the Fuji glass has the SAME coloration as current Fuji X system digital cameras (in fact, ALL Fuji lenses from the late '60's to today have identical color reproduction, so using the old Fuji lenses on an X-system camera results in NO color shift from the lenses. Also, the Fuji lenses work on the new cameras with the best sharpness around. MUCH better than and '70's ear Nikon or Canon lenses on a digital.
@@graham_white I always study the acutance of lenses (edge definition) and contrast. That adds SO much to the perception of what people call sharpness. In the film days, I owned both camera systems (Fuji ST series, Pentax Spotmatic IIa, Olympus OM-1 and 2, and later, pre-digital) I was a Fuji Pro Products Rep and owned Canon, Leica & Nikon systems). The Fuji glass is superior in color, and sharpness. I currently own a Takumar 400mm and a Fuji 200mm M42 lens. The Takumar is too soft to use. No contrast. The 200 is indistinguishable from my Fuji 55-200 which is far sharper than the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VR. I use the Fujinon 200 M42 with helicoid extension tubes (Fotasy 35-90mm) for extreme macro work in the field. I even put Fuji lenses over the Leica M lenses I owned for my M-4. I am also pretty picky from using 4x5 and 8x10, so sharpness is everything for me.
@@bgrzesiak5996 thanks for the input. I 100% agree the edge definition and contrast are very important in sharpness not just center especially in the older lenses. Hard to find that kind of information comparing these older lenses now days and very time consuming to invest in them all and do actually side by side comparison of the same composition with each lens.
I would throw my vote for any camera in the Nikkormat series! They were first made as a prosumer SLR around the time of the Nikon F (1965) and accepted all of the pro lenses that the F and F2 used while remaining very budget friendly. I picked up my FTn two or three years ago for around $50, and you can grab a good non-AI (or pre-Ai depending on the listing) 50mm f/2, f/1.8, or f/1.4 for $20-$60 on eBay! Great little mechanical camera that's still my go-to 35mm camera!
completely agree. I still find myself going to my Nikon F2 most of the time cause I know it will never fail me. but you can't beat the price point and reliability of a Nikkormat series.
I recently bought one of these and it came with a 50mm lens. I am trying to shoot simple and easy, going with a Nikon F body and the Nikkormat. One lens and 1 roll of film.
@@martyzielinski1442 come on... I'm setting here looking at 2 Spotmatics right now, made in the 70s and still going, all mechanical and IF something was to go bad, these are easy to have fixed and do not just take my word for it... The Pentax glass has a wonderful reputation. And with the m42 mount there are PLENTY to choose from.
Literally can buy a canon eos 630, slap a modern canon lens on it and smack these cameras around in terms of quality. Sure it's fully auto, sure it doesn't look "old school" and hipster....But that's a good thing. Each shot cost money, and the eos 600 line will squeeze every last drop of performance out of that tiny 35mm roll of film. Put on a L series lens, and your shit will be FLYING. Best of all, a eos 630 cost like....10 bucks.
tom C those SRT’s will outlast us all ha. I and a huge fan of the Nikkormats and they were definitely in the running. But I’ve noticed they seem to be all priced at 100 or more recently which is surprising to me since you can get a Nikon f for not much more than that. So I went with the EM instead. Thanks for the support!
Fujica 901 - beware of degraded foam light seals on the back and the foam mirror buffer which, if it breaks up, can spread sticky bits over the viewing screen. Minolta SRT201 - as Graham says "built like a tank". Probably the best of this selection. If you can find a 58mm f1.4 lens snap it up. Konica Auto S2 - I have no experience of this one. Sounds similar to the Fujica SE35, I took the lens of that one apart to fix and like Graham's Konica it never went back together. Pentax ME Super - I've never had much luck with Pentax SLR's. Most that have passed through my hands have been faulty. Probably just the luck of the draw. Excellent lenses though. Nikon EM - great reputation. The complex variations of incompatible lenses have always put me off Nikon SLR's though. My recommendation (I'm serious) - Chinon CS. The most reliable camera I've ever come across. As a former camera dealer I've had dozens pass through my hands and the only one that didn't work properly appeared to have been hit with a large hammer. When Alpa wanted to market a cheaper camera they went to Chinon with good reason. Best of all you can get them for pennies. Takes M42 lenses so you have a huge range to choose from. The standard 50mm's (1.4 & 1.8) were made by Tomioka and are excellent. The 50mm 1.2 is beyond most people's price range though.
Well said. I think the degraded foam is kinda a universal film camera rule though in my experience. definitely agree with you on the Pentax Me and Supers, I've a loot of people finding bad ones but somehow I have been lucky on that. Of course a lot of people tell me the Minolta XG and similar bodies are great but I haven't found one that isn't broken yet. and I 100% agree with the Chinon. by far a extremely underrated with great quality from what I understand and other enthusiasts/pros have told me. Most I see though are way overpriced or busted since they were lower end brands and people didn't care for them. the ones in the right price range I just haven't grabbed cause I really don't have the need so can't really justify it. thanks for all the input!
