Electrician here. Thanks for the video. With so many electronics in things, surge protection is a great addition to almost anything. At the furnace, I'd recommend any decent plug-strip-style surge device. Try to get the furnace on a dedicated circuit. Put the furnace on a cord and plug it in with any other furnace related 120v devices like condensation pumps, UV lights, and ionizers. Yes, the cord connection meets the NEC requirement for a disconnect. Make sure the surge device has an indicator for it being 'Grounded'. At the heat pump and or AC unit add the Intermatic Compressor Defender. These steps should be taken even if the home has a whole home surge protection at the main electrical panel.
What a great video! We have daughter who was chronically ill with Lyme disease and later was exposed to mold. AtmosAir units (ionizers) installed in our HVAC system really helped her. We are moving to Colorado and we will follow your advice on all three upgrades. ERVs also look interesting. Saw your Daikin shirt: I have worked is Asia for many years where Daikin is the 'Rolls Royce' of HVAC systems. Their split units are especially awesome, So few people in the US are familiar with Daikin.
I have used a washable filter for many years. One residence has split systems and has cooling, heat and humidity controls on each unit. I now prefer the splits to central air. Surge protection is a good idea, brown outs can ruin things and we recently had to go to scheduled black outs to protect things in the United States. I do not have one the HVAC but do have on refrigerator. Thanks for the idea.
Thank you, thank you thank you sooooo much for the information you are sharing with us homeowners. We recently had an HVAC rep to come to our home to service our HVAC system. The system is only about 4 yrs, old, although us that it was out of warranty. He told us that the system was working well. The house was a new home but had not sold. He also told us that the warranty started when the house was completed. The home was on the market before we purchased it. The prices he shared with us for the surge protector, 240V AG3000 the IWAVE-R Whole Home Ionization and the At Home REME Halo Purification system, the prices were outrageous. I went online to check the cost of each item and was shocked to see what the costs were as opposed to what was quoted to us. We will purchase the recommended items and find a good word of mouth installer. Again, thank you for your honesty, we have learned a great deal from this short video. I wished more were like you. Regards,
I am sick of the grifting and borderline theft. I used window AC's for 5 years to delay getting bent over. Just got new central AC for $5,200 installed with 10 year warranty, 1,000 ft home, Florida. Used a Merv 13 air filter and 2 weeks later it was about to kill my new air handler. Nothing above Merv 8 now and changed every month. I bought 44 USA made Merv 8 filters for $90 on facebook
I have had a couple of “Air Genius” air cleaners in my house for the past few years. They have permanent submersible filters that I periodically wash with soapy water. They really keep my overall house dust-free so they certainly help the HVAC.
After watching project farm review filters I switched to the 3M filtrete 1900 and couldn't be happier. The filter catches more, lasts for 3 months and my house cools better because the static pressure is lower then cheap filters even after filtering many particles.
Static pressure being higher doesn't make your house cool better. It slows the air down. If you had too much airflow to begin with, then this will improve dehumidification which makes it feel colder even though the unit is still maintaining the same temperature in the space.
@@fitybux4664 just rewatched the project farm video. The filtrete 1900 has low static pressure and maintains it even after filtering many particles and does an amazing job filtering the particles at the same time.
As a service tech, I totally agree with 4 out of 5. Not a grand uv light guy. Sorry. But I personally upgraded my system to the Lennox XP25 surge protected with the healthy climate rack and the HALO-led. That covers 4 out of the 5. And those 4 (not manufacturer specific) are truly the only upgrades I morally feel comfortable with pitching to customers outside of necessary parts for repair. Good job sir.
@@NewHVACGuide none that you’ve mentioned. I am not personally premeditating sales pitches in general. And when customers mention Uv lighting I tend to pitch the RGF REME Halo LED or the I-wave in-duct devices. A bit more expensive (twice the price). However those components (as other similar devices) provide whole house purification. So when I do deter from the reasoning I’ve been invited into their home (service calls) I feel morally responsible to be honest. But, if a light is what they want, who am I to wish otherwise. Nothing wrong with them
@@NewHVACGuide what sort of proof is there that this thing works? I’m not being a smart add I’m actually scheduled to have the halo LED this coming Monday. Just having a hard time buying into it and considering cancelling service.
Surge suppression is cheap. I used ICM controls units. I have a class 1 before the main cutoff at the panel and a type 2 installed at the Ac cutoff outside. 150.00 in parts, I did myself. Call your power company to have meter pulled before attempting to work on live wires to ensure a proper lock out/tag out.
Surge does not protect brown outs. Surge is only good for when voltages goes high. Brown outs happen when voltage drops and for that you need a UPS to level the voltage out, typically with batteries.
I appreciate the valuable insight you provided here. These are things I've been wanting to research for a while. Now you gave me the motivation and now justification to pitch to the wife :D
Look. just get a decent filter (merv 8) and change often (every month). This will give you the req'd airflow to keep your system running efficiently and keep the air quality high. If your furnace has a low speed recirc fan that can run when the system isn't actively heat or cooling, keep it on 100%. I can spout my anecdotal evidence too by saying my system has been great, coils are perfectly clean and I've only done the things I've mentioned above. Also, most of the items this poster mentioned are high cost/high markup, low installer cost "upgrades" that really help a bottom line, but don't do much, unless you changing your filter regularly.
People complain about the ozone from Ionizers, but many have options to turn down the power. I had one installed and the ac company had it on high. I have it low now and can't even smell it.
Hi from Southern California. I just found your channel as I was trying to see what the pros say about having a rector seal emergency safety switch for a rooftop hvac (still looking). I'm going to mention your suggestions to my service person but wanted to put my 2 cents in on the surge protector. I replaced my rooftop hvac in 2018 and it cost me a bit over $9,000. Two story building so a crane was required. A year or so later my service person recommended a surge protector (they are quoting it for all their customers) and I of course said yes. We have fairly frequent power outages due to high winds and I was concerned about surges damaging my investment. I have surge protector strips on all my appliances and my computer so it sure makes sense to have one on the most expensive piece of equipment in (on) my home. Hope you're doing well, and I enjoyed your talk.
Surge protection. Don't leave home without it. A lightning strike costs me about $500 to replace the electric control module in my A/C. It also took out my TV and Garage door opener..
I added a thermometer on guess it's called the return & discharge bent a few feet from furnace to check temperature spread when running central air conditioning. Have a 50 amp meter along with box and 50 to 5 current transformer that I want to run one of the condenser unit wires thru transformer donut to read ampere draw. Was thinking of installing a mister on AC condenser coil. Nice vid.
@@davidm7824 Thanks. Our water is fairly soft but now that you gave me that great tip will never want to take a chance. Our water & sewer bill went sky high over the years. 45 years ago I was only paying think it was $50 twice a year now it's $85 a month for two old retired farts that really don't use that much water.
Sup Josh! Here's what I did, thirty years ago before any of this was mainstream. I put a laboratory short wave UV tube in my return duct. It doesn't shine on the coil but it does sterilize the air to some degree and also ionizes to some degree. I put stacks of filters on every return register and I'll mist em with WD 40 now and then. I also have foam filters right at the suction side of the blower. They take years to get any accumulation and I'll just wash and re-oil. For humidity control I run a dehumidifier on the lowest level partially underground where the water processing equipment is with my homemade controller that assures my set humidity window and makes sure the coil doesn't freeze. For winter I put in an industrial heat exchanging air ventilator to bring in dry outdoor air when the indoor air exceeds 55%. I wired it to come on only when the heat is heating. All those things have worked really great and I designed/installed my whole system with heat pump, gas furnace, and wood stove. Cheers!
@@NewHVACGuide Thanks man! I'm happy. Virginia power lent me a set of manuals which I digested, I believe it was "H" which was most instrumental to proper sizing of units and ducts to keep air velocity under 400'/min, stuff like that. I have all four stories on one system and temps are very consistent. I'm an engineer (VT) and previously a mechanic so I can design and implement. I've worked as a control box engineer for industrial chillers but that was later after I built. Which I also did my own plumbing, electrical, framing, finishing, etc and designed the whole structure from my imagination. Not something I will repeat but it was great! The local building office worked admirably with me. We're in agricultural territory so I feel that helped a lot to allow my autonomy. Cheers Josh, God bless you!
Not knocking you, but the UV bulb does virtually nothing to stuff in the air flying by it, there just isn't enough exposure time. I also would not recommend anyone ever use WD40, or any petroleum product on an air filter due to the VOCs that it releases into the air stream.
@@markbeiser Thanks for your input. And not to knock you for offering your educated, experienced, and well informed opinion on something you haven't seen nor have details of, but, resisting further sarcasm, suffice it to say it's worked quite well for thirty years. Ducts are clean, we've all been blessed with great health, and we're comfortable. The proof is in the pudding, as an old saying goes. Concentration of VOCs from spritzing air filters with WD 40 before bringing them in to filter return air at the registers is of no concern to me. I get why you might be concerned yourself knowing only they may be present and have fear of the unknown. I never "recommend" anyone outside my family to do anything I do. I'm an advocate of personal responsibility. I make my choices and you make yours. If you want to study science and engineering, research, experiment, and measure things then we can talk and you may influence me on related matters. If you want to paint pictures, make music, write and/or talk to people as your life's calling, be a driver, a tradesman, utility worker... If you didn't study science and its application then don't be surprised when I dismiss your technical concerns as ill informed. Doesn't mean you're wrong with your guesses, necessarily, just that you have no basis for your claims.
@@elgringoec You're right, nearly 30 years of experience performance testing HVAC systems, building diagnostics, and solving IAQ problems, maintaining certifications, and keeping up with the relevant research gives me no basis for having an opinion on the subject, all just pure guesswork. Carry on.
What is the general consensus about MR COOL whole house systems using their 4/5T heat exchangers....? Has anyone had experience with these units operating for more than 3 yrs problem free?
One more note about cleanliness: A well outfitted HVAC system will help keep your home dust free, germ free and preserve your furnishings. I have seen mold show up under tables, inside furniture legs and along drafty air leaks. If you have a wood burning fireplace installing closable glass doors will prevent HVAC system returns from pulling contaminants into the room in winter and summer - including the smell of creosote from the chimney.
Thank you for specifying that the UV light should be one that shines on the coil. As an industrial hygienist I hate seeing people get tricked into buying useless UV air purifiers that claim to purify the air as it flows through (my house had them when I bought it and I immediately turned them off). Flow through designs will never have the contact time to kill any significant amounts of microbial life. Shining one on the coil though can be effective at preventing growth on the coil because it does have the contact time to kill anything that sticks to the surface.
So how does air purify flowing briefly over the coil. The coil might look good but the air flow is no better before the coil than after the coil. Are you specifying a cool AC system rather than heat, because I think your going to have problems putting it in with high heat coils. I guess you also have a problem with uv water disinfectant in homes for that same reason. If you say the water is confined closer to the uv that than answer that can be applied to air, by adding more tubes away from the heat source.
@@Now_lets_get_this_straight It doesn’t purify the air at all. The UV light kills the microbes that stick to the coil and prevent growth on the coil itself. While it doesn’t purify the air it can indirectly lead to cleaner air because any mold that did grow on the coils would be emitting spores so it mainly works as a preventative. As for the water UV systems, I don’t know much about them but the same principal applies. If you don’t have enough contact time then it won’t have any significant effect.
@@kevinsiggins623 yes I realize it doesn’t purify, just kills odor (microbial life) as you said, if source is removed. Which is why I always change my filter (& turn on) when I ozone my entire house. Which is why I wouldn’t use light for air systems unless I change the filter twice a year, and run it long enough to the change entire air once using multiple lights. I am setting up an old fish tank for use on using uv light for disinfecting my kitchen glassware after washing. UV light doesn’t go thru regular glass, just quartz, so it’s safe. Being I’m the only one in my house, I’ll use ozone for 15 minutes in my bathroom after cleaning. I invested in uv because I get enough use from my kids (they all have pets) justifying the $1K cost. I use commercial uv units for the larger living areas and uv lights for bedrooms and bathrooms.
@@Now_lets_get_this_straight mold growth on your coils can cause more issues than just odor, especially if you’re allergic. As you said though, it’s not necessary if you keep your coils clean but my original point is that unlike the flow through systems that claim to purify the air, the ones that shine on the coils actually work for their intended purpose. From the sound of it you’re using it primarily to disinfect surfaces. UV can absolutely do that effectively assuming your system has enough intensity and you’re giving it enough contact time.
@@kevinsiggins623 if you got mold problem in your air system, then you probably got it other places to. Probably have a humidity problem, as that might need a dehumidifier rather than UV. With the push in England to insulate the old brick houses and getting a tight seal on areas not fully insulated, they are having a terrible time with mold and now have to address that problem as well with dehumidifiers.
Dangers of Air Ionizers The most common air ionizer dangers include throat irritation, coughing, chest pain and shortness of breath, as well as an increased risk of respiratory infections.
I mean a whole home surge protector seems like a good idea but do they really do any unless its something crazy expensive that is checking the voltage thousands of times a second and can actually cut power on the peak not just at the zero crossing i just don't think some matel oxide veristors are going to do a lot
If I'm not mistaken, both the 2020 and 2023 National Electrical Code require whole house surge protection devices. Now, here's a question for you: I didn't see professional electrostatic filters among your list of filter devices. Where among the filter devices does a professional electrostatic filter belong?
I had a new furnace installed last year. The installer with 25 years experience told me to use a filter with a MERV rating of 10 or lower. The higher MERV filters restrict the air flow and cause the heat exchanger to run hot and shorten its life and they are very expensive to replace.
To use filters with higher MERV ratings, you need more surface area to compensate for the restriction. The system needs to be designed with that in mind.
Eric is right and where the filter is located in a system affects the static pressure as well someone in the comments said they wouldn't trust a filter you change once a year well on certain sized air handlers we install 2 4" filters one per side and those can last 6 months sometimes depends on the house pets how often systems are ran carpets etc
100% true, slowing down the air flow will either flood(Fixed) or starve(TXV) the evaporator and cut capacity. The MERV 8 rule is for air handlers with PSC motors, MERV 10 for an ECM. Most filters seem to be going MERV 10 and the tight pleated 3M filters are still compressor killers. A two inch filter box is what you want, 12 filters up to 3.5 years worth $60. It's what we do on our installs and every customer gets a case of filters.
FYI - The higher the MERV rating, the more surface area the filter should have. A clean MERV 13 thats 1 inch wide can cause air restriction. Stretching it to a 5 inch wide solves that.
I have worked in documenting Pharma HVAC to FDA standards since 1979. it's just my experience but I've never seen air UV or deionizers. USP or DI water, oh yes. HEPA filters are required to be certified regularly. CO2 air handling adjustment may be specified for high occupancy rooms. What's the min OA exchange or space changes per hour rate in your well-insulated and sealed home? I am not seeing anyone in the comments reporting instrument measurements or performance recording, let alone a controlled experimental study. There are many self-funded subjective opinions on which to base your install and maintenance investments. Enjoy.
Agree on the 4” media filter, I put them on every job at no additional cost. Pad humidifiers suck, steam humidifiers suck because you have to have a RO system to filter the water. UV lights will eat up filters, wires on the blower motors and anything not uv resistant. It is a good way to get back in the home every year for a $200 bulb. I always like when they talk the customer into a 18 seer or geo because in 20 it will have paid for itself. In 11 years when the compressor is out and they guy telling you it’s 5k and your better off replacing the system due to its age.
I had an exprecience recently with some contractor when I was shopping around for a new system quote me around $9500. I told him that I could go online and purchase a new 3.5 ton package heat pump, have it shipped to me with the freight charges and it wouln't even be half of his quote. When I asked him why so high, he said things like as of Jan 1 the DOE won't allow the sale of anything less than an 18 SEER 2, two stage systems (total BS, the new minimum requirements for my area are 15 SEER 2 and single stage is fine). He also said it needed a pad under the unit (more BS, my unit sits on a raised masonry platform that's 30 inches above grade, I don't live in a flood zone, why would it need a pad? Every unit before for the last 38 years sat on this platform w/o any issues.). The next thing he said was the wiring was inadequate and I needed a new cutoff (more total BS, the code only calls for #6 wires and a 60 amp breaker, I have an 80 amp breaker with #4 going from the main panel to the cut off panel next to the unit mainly because of the nealry 50 ft run, the cut off panel has a 40 amp breaker feeding the contactor, and a 45 amp breaker feeding the 10 KW strips). Last thing he said it needed was that the DOE regulations requires a smart thermostat, he tried to include an Ecobee. I told him that the Castaways had a hit back in the 60's called "Liar, Liar". I did actually find an honest contractor that didn't try an upsell anything I didn't actually need or that wasn't required, the final bill was around $5k.
@@fldave612 that’s why I will never make it in the business I don’t up sale and crook people. I price plan Jane stuff and warn people if they have buy parts out of warranty on a variable speed high end unit. Now honestly you can get equipment off line cheaper than what I can pay for it at a local supply house. But here is the problem you run in to with off line equipment is that no supply house that will cover the warranty. Take your 5k add in labor, permits, gas, federal, state and local taxes. That’s not a bad price to have someone else do it if they provide good service after the sale. Never heard the smart thermostat one lol, the programmable one is required. I don’t even recommend running a set back program because your not just cooling or heating air. You have to recondition all the thermal mass in your home.
@@fldave612 What brand of heat pump did you go with? We’ve received several quotes to replace our 20 year old 3.5 ton 12 Seer rooftop package heat pump and the lowest being 6.7k. I thought about buying the heat pump and looking for a licensed HVAC tech to install it but that may be easier said than done.
My neighbor just had a new outdoor unit installed last year. Flooding is not a issue but they still sold her a plastic pad that was just put on top of the perfectly good concrete pad that she already had.
@@900stx7 yea a lot of the cheap stuff they dangle in front of you as free to get the sale. I do prefer the plastic vs a concrete pad on a heat pump because of the defrost cycle in the winter. I will remove the old pad if possible.
I have an Aprilaire 5000 installed since 2012. It works amazingly well. A good friend installed my Goodman furnace in 2014, and every time I change the Aprilaire filter, I take a pic of the blower motor fan on the other side, and send him the pic. It looks brand new with NO dust, and I have my blower motor on 24/7. I was changing the filter every year but decided to stretch it to 18 months last few years, with the same results.
Same here, love my AprilAire Dehumidifier and humidifier, and the Goodman HVAC, no issues here, and if there are... Parts are pretty much universal and readily available. With regular maintanece, I see this unit lasting many many years. And it did not cost an arm and a leg.
I put an Aprilaire 5000 in my own system, works great, just remember to clean the control electrode(expanded metal looking thing before the filter) and the ionizing wires a couple of times a year, and you will continue to enjoy many more years of a clean system, and near HEPA levels of virus size particle removal. When sealed correctly so there is no air leakage between the filter cabinet and air handler/furnace, even the non electronic Aprilaire filters will keep the unit looking virtually new inside for the life of the equipment.
I would not go higher than a MARV 10 filter in a regular residential situation bc of airflow issues and possibly causing liquid slugging the compressor. Marv 10 is a really good filter btw. Most decent pleats are Marv 8. I do highly recommend a Reme Halo system. They have the LED version now in case you don't want ozone in your house. I installed one and now my home doesn't have that old house smell anymore whenever I come home from being away and the ac system has been set to a higher temp.
@@woohunter1well if you want to reduce the life of your equipment, specifically the blower motor, heat exchanger and compressor, go right ahead. Get an electronic filter rated at 13-16 merv that allows 7-8 merv airflow if you really need better filtration. If it's for allergies/air quality, get a UV light. Better options out there than the "furnace killers".
@@Gus11445 that’s what my HVAC guy put in when he installed it 11 years ago, been running great ever since, I do change out my filters 4 times a year, the beginning of every season.
@@woohunter1 if you have good sized main trunks it's not as much an issue but many houses ducts are undersized. You do still reduce efficiency overall, stress the blower motor more, heat exchanger will get hotter and more temp stressed, evaporator has a higher chance of freezing/ liquid getting to compressor slugging the compressor. 11 years is still a mid aged system and you may not notice anything other than "it runs well". The difference in getting 15-20 years on a furnace vs 20-30. If you aren't getting annual heat exchanger checks and the whole system checked you may not even know.
Okay, my searches aren't bringing up any useful answers. How do I put a media filter on my furnace? Can it be retrofitted, or do I have to buy a new furnace? Our existing unit sits in a closet in the middle of the house. The filter is in a tray on the bottom. I'm not aware of any return ducts, just three vents-- two at the bottom of two of the walls of the closet and one at the top of a third wall. Would I need filters in all of these?
Viruses are below .1 micron. I have seen dentists office ( each room) with portable units that do go down to .1 micron. These units are size of small refrigerator. Concerning viruses do not travel far if your using home unit ( heat,air) blower viruses never get there to be filtered. Disposable filters that keep dust away are fine for cleanliness. Get units for each room if your worried
BTW i got in to an internet argument with a guy once about surge protectors. turns out he was motorola or similar company engineer and, i learned surge protection is only as good as the grounding and code is only to save lives not electronics. it's debated to upgrade to a lower ohm resistance
I bought a 2800 sq. Ft. NW Arkansas house recently and with this cold snap the natural gas furnace does not heat properly according to the 3 service companies I had look at it all stated the air ducting is not sized right for a 5 ton furnace causing it to not heat enough and run on blowing cold air till I reset it, they want right at $40k to put in either a premium Trane or Daikon furnace. Coil, A/C compressor and all new ducting in attic to the rooms cleaning up a mess of flexible duct . I am having a heart attack over this cost, lowest price would be about $6k lower with 1speed blower and still replacing the duct. Seller said “new” HVAC in 2019, but the furnace and A/C unit do not match and there was never a permit pulled for this work that I checked on with the city. The duct work alone is around $10k, Are those prices in line?
Would upgrading the evaporator coil be a good idea? Is that even possible? Getting whole home consultations and need any advice on questions and equipment.
IF you put in ductless splits or any variable refrigerant flow, variable air flow (inverter boards & rectifiers/control boards), you will need SURGE and Brownout protection. These are expensive boards and sensitive to transients. Imperative as the near future will increase power difficulties Nationwide.
I was so close to having a UV light installed by our HVAC professional but i backed out because of the price, 1600 dollars each. I have two units. It is musky smelling and some mold but the smell goes away as we use the AC more. Do you think it is necessary to have a UV light? Is this something I can do myself and not pay 1600 a light!!!???
Not sure what they were installing, but that certainly sounds high. Below is a link of the ones we used to install. They tie into the low-voltage wiring and lasted years. Link: amzn.to/4aXDEqO
Considering how locked down the HVAC industry rolls, I always figured surge protection wasn't offered because the profit of replacing things when there is an electrical event
I purchased a unit but not sure where to put it. Since the evap coils are mounted on top of the furnace, Will the lamps overheat in the winter when the burners are on? Also, my service guy said that I have fiberboard connecting the furnace to the main duct so the UV will deteriorate that board. Is he right?
Just using cheap $3 filter and changing it every 45-60 days in addition to the cleanable filter in the furnace box has worked fine for me. No way you’re gonna convince me that a filter medium that you replace every year is good for your system. Mine after 45 days is clearly restricting the air somewhat. That’s not good and there’s no way it would last 12 months and not affect airflow. I think a hard start kit should be included in your list. Thanks for posting
the reason why the higher end filters can last longer is because they're usually 4"+ thick. That allows them to have a significantly higher surface area which puts less strain on your system even while offering a higher filtration. When you consider the same amount of air flowing over a larger surface it also means it takes longer to build up the same level of contaminants per square inch.
@@kevinsiggins623 - To each his own. I’m never going to put a filter and that I check every 12 months I don’t care how much it cost. The surface area is the surface area of the filter. Width times length. The depth of it gives you additional surface area as you say I suppose at the expense of reduced airflow The proof is in the pudding I change it every 30 days in my evap coils are clean as a whistle
@@condor5635 You are understating the importance of the depth of the pleating in contributing to the total the flow area of the filter. A 5" thick pleated filter will have 5X the flow area of the same LxW 1" thick pleated filter.
@@BasementEngineer - I am happy with my cheap $2-$3 filters. Evap coils are great. Going on 20 years. If something is working well bottom line let it be. Thanks for the interesting reply
You are in disagreement with reality though, as proven by many tens of thousands, even millions of installations out in the real world performing exactly as you say there is no way to convince you they do...
I have a 3 ton system with an air handle (ICP). I now use #8 merv (16" x 20" x 1") but they get dirty in 2 weeks here in central Texas. I'm in a new upscale double wide (tape and textured w ceiling registers.. It is a Smart Control (w/heat pump) Carrier brand. The closet is 30 inches wide and the space between the floor and bottom of the filter duct is 15". Should I or can I switch to a 4 inch Honeywell system?
Where is the uv light supposed to go as well as surge protector. I’m confused on air filter? I have a 3 ton unit so some say the more expensive filters are the best and then the cheaper one will do? Can you show pictures???
What an ionizer does is charge the particles and makes them want to stick to metal or it weights it out of the air and makes the particles want to stick to things like furniture the walls the floor etc...... I can prove to you ionizers don't kill mold in your hvac. I do think they are a good idea but I'm not sure I would sell it as a mold killer.
If surges were such a problem ever other month your unit would be broken! Manufacturers and engineers account for it during production. How would they give you a warranty? Sounds like a commission based tech
😂 I own a business. So I guess I am commission based. However, I make no commission giving the truth to customers all across RU-vid. That said, it’s possible that you live in an area that power surges are not as common. That is such a thing and if you haven’t heard of that, you should take an electrical class. I have ordered control boards under warranty and been asked by suppliers if there is a surge protector installed. In fact, my Bosch supplier asks no matter what part I order.
A power surge destroyed the fan motor in my furnace. It also destroyed the compressor in my neighbor’s new Carrier condensing unit. My neighbor got a new condensing unit under warranty but I had to pay $200 for a new motor. I have also lost a couple TV’s due to lightning strikes. I finally installed a whole house surge protector and I can hear that protector clicking when a power surge occurs.
Two things I did, installed an AprilAire E100 wholehouse dehumidifier and a soft start on my condenser. Easy to do both. And fixed more than a few installer screw ups, and really made our Goodman system work more efficiently. The thermostat is set at 72, even on the hottest days, was in the 90's here for a couple of days, with 80% humidity, no issues. Humidity in the house was holding in the 50% range and the AC was only turning on every few hours, if that. Very comfortable in here.
@@billycox475 Yep, pretty simple install. Tin snips, a collar and the 10" flex line. Took maybe half an hour? I did have to run a new electrical circuit, no plug in the area, so that took around two hours to run and install conduit, box and plug.
we have an old oil burner that we cant even use because the burner is not safe and is rusting. we want to switch to natural gas, but I havent got a clue where to even begin. any tips?
I would rethink the ionizer as you do not want to be inside while it is in operation. One thing that you missed is a fresh air exchanger. Indoor air pollution is a major problem and with tighter homes it is more important to bring in fresh air and exhaust the inside air. Next, depending on the climate, dump the gas furnace and go with a heat pump. For me, a Mitsubishi, City Multi 8 zone system that uses "conventional" ducted zones and slot defusers with just one zone that uses a ceiling cassette. This won't work in most homes due to the extreme cost but well worth it over the long run. Efficient and most important, comfort as one house can if necessary be air conditioned and heat at the same time in another part of the house or basically move heat from one part of the house to another with the VRF (variable refrigerant flow) system. Conventional split AC with gas furnace, that is for the 1950's. Not the third decade of the 21st Century.
@@walterwhite2270 Well, yes. I think that manufactured gas went out with the 1950's. Propane is a different thing. Smart people are switching to heat pumps in this day an age however.
@@kennixox262 I disagree with that....I prefer Gas heat over heat pumps....even in the winter of phoenix az i had a heat pump years ago and it could not keep up with it got below 40 deg..... I would not buy a house that did not have gas option.....not sure where you get your data from on people using heat pumps more than gas....to me it is a regional thing along with whether gas is available in that area....my house was built the year of 2000 and the subdivisions in the area had gas ran to the houses... I get have a mini split for each room would be somewhat more efficient if you had low ceilings and smaller rooms like in asia...where i am located we all like or big rooms and high ceilings and not too sure mini splits would be beneficial.... As it goes you have your opinion and I have mine and the only thing we agree on is to disagree.....
I'm just outside of your area in Stafford near Quantico, but have been gleaning good information from your videos, thanks! I'm curious what do you think about the REME HALO Whole Home In-Duct Air Purifier? Should I use this or something similar with 4" media? I'm having a new system installed at my home and just want to make the right choices.
Hello there, we have problems with Voltage fluctuations here in South Florida , where the voltage dips / cuts out briefly and then comes back on right away. This causes my AC compressor many problems, so I installed a ICM Delay on Make Timer. The strange thing is that the timer does not cut out at those dips but only delays once the electricity goes off completely ( same counts for the built in delay in my Air handler thermostat). What do you recommend ?
Thinking about getting Daikin Furnace with AC/heat pump my contractor wanted to add a surge protector but when I got my generator installed I had a whole house surge protector install, I assume this is good enough and I don’t need the additional surge protector
Hi , I am in the process of buying a new system, with Iwave and one uv light at coil, do I need a second uvlight , but my guy says I don’t need the 4 inch filter on the return with the Iwave unit , what do you think? Should I have him install 4 inch filter also
I have the CERV Equinox Air Exchanger/Cleaner Brainiac machine which has a UV light! It has filters for both intake and return air. It has a basic humidity control but for a large home you need a larger purpose built one (like aprilaire products). For Surge protection do you mean, at the CB for the device, OR a whole house Surge protector??
Man! I am going to put your vid on blast to my network! This is exactly what we needed to up our sales in the slow time here in SoFlo. And also a sales booster all year!!!!!👍👑
It’s interesting, when we built our new home, the HVAC system went up in the attic in a controlled airspace with foam insulation. Something interesting I have noticed however, I have one of those whole house filters and it just doesn’t seem to pick up dust. I think the reason is the return air register is in the ceiling of the hallway. Conventional AC systems had a return air vent at floor level and it picked up all kinds of dust. I can remember changing filters that were just black, the ones in this new system I only change them every six months and they’re just not that dirty.
Check your system for leakage on the Return side. If you are not noticing any dust collecting on your filter your are picking up air from another source. And Yes installers do make mistakes and sometime do not seal the duct work correctly. Millions of home in America have the Filter located in the Hallway Ceiling and those filters do collect dust efficiently as dust becomes airborne with activities in the household especially with carpet. As carpet deteriorates with time and creates fibers that become airborne when walked on. Also depending on your home I.E. If a single HVAC unit is Operating for a two story home there is depending on how the duct work was spec'd out. There can be multiple returns for the unit and can have two returns one upstairs and one down stairs. I am a retired Stationary Engineer with Heavy back ground in HVAC-R and there so many systems that I have seen fail due to cheap shoddy work on the duct work on a properly sized AC/Heating package or split system and it sound as if you have a spilt system with the Evaporator Coil and Fan Housing unit located in a controlled space in the attic.
I would have a reputable HVAC air specialist come into your home to examine and run the proper tests and calculations. As a secondary note, look into a product called Aeroseal to have your ducts sealed and you will thank me. Clean air has many factors other than just filtration.
I want to add a whole-house air purifier (with the 4" filter) to my 5-ton heat pump system but my air handler in the attic has two return plenums/boxes. Is that abnormal? Does it mean I need to buy and install two separate whole-house purifiers? Thinking about the Aprilaire filter or the Infinity air purifier maybe. Love your videos by the way, thanks!
I paid extra ($1000) for an ionizer on a new hvac system for my home, and to this day I still worry that it wasn’t installed. The contractors had no idea what the ionizer was or how to install, they looked at it like it was an alien artifact. I got the feeling they thought it was unnecessary or stupid. I have this bad feeling that it wasn’t even connected and I spent 1k on nothing.
What's your thoughts on installing an easy soft start for the compressor. Not really needing it for running on a generator but just for the life of compressor and peaking LRA on start up every time. I appreciate your thoughts.
Is it safe to breathe ozone from UV light? I had all these issues after I installed a UV light, BE AWARE When inhaled, ozone can damage the lungs. Relatively low amounts can cause chest pain, coughing, shortness of breath and throat irritation. Ozone may also worsen chronic respiratory diseases such as asthma and compromise the ability of the body to fight respiratory infections.
I 2nd the surge protector thing had a new system installed 5 years ago and they didn't put a new surge protector on it got hit by a lightning couple of months ago and it fried my entire system the heat pump literally caught on fire and burned still making payments on the first system and have to replace the entire thing again because there was no surge protector in place. luckily I have great insurance that fortunately covered about 98% of the cost to replace the entire system that got fried.
About the high MERV filters. what about the higher pressure drop forced upon the fan? The fan is now having to work extra hard to draw in the return air. Definite "yes" on the 254 nm UVC lamps!
No problem with a high MERV filter if you have a separate filter/fan set up that isn't part of your HVAC system. Definitely you should worry about impeding the airflow in your HVAC though. It's a good way to avoid having to change blower motors...
To each their own, but I disagree with ionizers, UVC lights are ok given they don't produce ozone and actually shine on the coil. Most contractors don't install enough of them or sell them as a magic bullet when customers lack some if not all of the 3 pillars of IAQ, which are filtration, fresh air (which was not mentioned), and humidity control. None of the leading IAQ specialists recognize ionizers as a valid option, all their studies were paid and are not in real world environments. Contractors install them because they are un-educated and just wanna make a quick buck. IAQ solutions are not plug-n-play! My $0.02.
Ionizers are intended to reduce particulate below PM2.5 UVC is intended for biological growth (mold, mildew, viruses and bacterias). They both have intended purposes and when I hear people say "I believe in one and not the other" it shows me a lack of understanding of the fundamentals behind each technology.
Are you referring to things like the Remy systems? And maybe you can answer my question regarding the whole house humidifier. It gets very dry in the winter and I'm forced to rely on the portable ones bc my HVAC guy believes that whole house humidifiers cause havoc inside the HVAC system bc the condensation build up of water eventually drops back down into the unit effectively destroying it. I'll take your 2 cents ☺️
