I also like to use clear elastic along the edge of the opening of a wrap bodice to keep the neckline from gaping and help it sit nicely along the chest.
Dear Johanna, thank you for the useful tips. I have used clear elastic only for necklines in knit tops so far. One hint I would like to share may be useful for some viewers: My sewing machine is more than 25 years old (a Singer from the early 90's). My normal presser foot tended to get stuck, and I cannot find a Teflon foot to fit the old darling. So I tape some adhesive tape (the semi-transparent stuff) to the bottom of the normal steel sewing foot, and this makes it glide quite easily.
One tip: don’t cut the elastic to the exact length, cut at least 2” longer; then mark the exact length with a pen, leaving the excess on each end. Then you have something to hang onto and you just trim when you are done.
Hi Johanna. Clear elastic is indeed so useful with stretch/knits. My advice would be to always STEAM it before cutting it to size. I mean really steam it. Iron shouldn't touch the elastic though, just hover the iron above it. The noname brands I have used tend to shrink so I preshrink with steam. And when attaching the clear elastic to place, I use a basting (long) straightstitch which I remove at the end.
Lazaros, Are you steaming before basting in place or after basting? And then you serge or zigzag. Thanks. Sometimes no name brands are all that can be purchased.
@@jojosewist8921 Hello there JoJo. I always steam before. As soon as I open the bag I lay it in parallel rows on the ironing board and steam. Once I put the clear elastic in hot water to preshrink but I find steaming more practical. When sewing I cut a longer piece (of the already shrunk elastic) than I need, say 3" for the beginning of the seam and 3" more at the end, so 6"/15cm total.
@@lazarosmilios thank you for your quick response. Your explanation makes so much sense, I appreciate your time and expertise, and willingness to share with a stranger. May you and yours stay safe.
Thank you for the tips, Johanna. They are always wonderful. I have a Toyota serger and a Brother serger and both of them have a hole in the front of the presser foot that is for feeding elastic (or thin ribbon) through. You feed the elastic tail from the top of the hole down through and under the presser foot, then start sewing your seam. The elastic neatly feeds under the stitches. You can also pull the elastic and gather this way also. My 40 year old Toyota had this tip in the manual and I was glad that my Brother had the same opening in it's foot when I upgraded last fall. However I was surprised that this tip was not in the Brother manual, because it is an awesome and almost foolproof way to add clear elastic while serging.
I believe back in the past, Toyota, BabyLock, &Brother all made by same company. Makes me wonder if Baby Lock serge have that hole. Thanks for sharing.
@@vivlee3840 The Babylock serger foot has the slot too, but it is difficult to see if you don't know it's there! I use it for feeding elastic all the time. My old Juki had it too.
Swekeys sewing tape can be purchase on Amazon in the U.S. It is good quality. Thank you again for the informative information on elastic-getting inspired to sew forward with some knit tops.
My favorite cartagan is falling apart and I want to make another one. I saw it has clear elastic and was intimidated by it because I don't know much about sewing. You've given me the confidence to finally try it. Thanks. Great video.
As always.......so many helpful tips.......I enjoy watching your tutorials and even though I’ve been sewing for many years......I welcome new ideas and information🤗🤗🤗 Thank you for sharing🥰
This is inspiring! I've used clear elastic for swimwear for years but these other applications, particularly for gathering and horizontal seam stabilization are exciting prospects. Thank you :-D
Thank you, that makes so happy to hear! I do want to keep the content super focused and concise even when I do longer videos, so hearing you say this means a lot!
I was making a hat out of jersey and didn’t like the finishing. The seam was wavy, I was thinking about pressure foot pressure. While mulling over the pattern and my fabric choices. I do have clear elastic so I will be trying that!!
Thank you again for another helpful tip video :) I'm so glad to see you are doing so well! I use clear elastic as you say to stabilize shoulder seams. I've used it to do ruching down the sides of a knit garment (top or skirt) when I want to create that effect. It's an outstanding notion for finishing necklines, armholes and wrap knit dresses and does a fantastic job of stabilizing and helping to hold a cross over in a wrap dress.
I used it on the shoulders of my first ever knit top. It’s easy to use and definitely stops the stretch. Thanks for the other great suggestions. Ps. Been watching Rebekah Martinsson series. Northern Sweden is gorgeous.
Hi Johanna, explained very clear. Great video 👍. Thanks. Sometimes I even use the selvage strip for shoulder seams if I don't have clear elastic handy. My favorite is from Vlieseline. My Bernina Serger has little hole on the sewing foot where I can insert the clear elastic while serging.
I’ve just stitched clear elastic into the shoulder seams of a heavy, hand knit Aran sweater I made years ago. The shoulder seams used to droop so I really hope this will solve the problem.
I just love your info. I Always learn something when I watch you. I’m putting your jeans and activewear books on my Christmas list. 🤞🤞 😁 Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
My Babylock serger standard foot has a slot built it - it can be hard to see. I feed elastic in through the slot, and under the needles. Then add the piece to be sewn. I hold the elastic with slight tension and the two are sewn at the same time. You need to cut the elastic a little longer than for example the shoulder seam because you feed it in first.
Have you got any advice on what needle to use with clear elastic? I tried to attach some elastic to an ity knit type fabric yesterday and it just got sucked down. I was using a stretch 75 needle. I suspect it wasn't sharp enough to pierce the elastic though.... any advice?
Framilon And Mobilon, are both made from Polyurethane and should not be an irritation to the skin, they are, I believe, both breathable. Cheaper transparent Plastic, elastics are not usually breathable and do irritate the skin. Personally, I usually use Framilon, it is an Italian brand and is about 40 years old. I love using it. John Fox, Designer, Patterncutter and Teacher, in London.
I use it to stabilize shoulders on wovens before felling the seam. I do a bit of elastic stretch as I sew on the neckline, so that there is a slight inwards stretch, then topstich with a double needle. Zero gapiing when I enlarge necklines on t-shirts or knit necklines.
Question, you said a few times not to sew the elastic so it touches your skin, but can't this elastic also be used at f.ex leg openings (touching the skin) on underwear/boxers to prevent the fabric from crawling up your leg?
These are all great ideas to use clear elastic with knits. Thank you! Question... Do you think it is possible to use clear elastic with woven fabric for Smocking??????????? Say for instance, using ce on the waist. In Canada prices for elastic thread are way too high. Thanks!
I don't understand how the elastic is used for gathers. I know you are not putting it in a casing. How do you manipulate the elastic and fabric together? Could you please do a video showing how to do this? Thanks so much.
Use a longer strip, tape the end behind the presser foot (see my shoulder seam video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i40Cn3ma0bY.html&lc ) Attach the beginning of the elastic to the fabric with some stitches (such as a zigzag ). Use an elastic that has a lot of stretch, as that differs a lot between different types. And practise of course :) Hope that helps!
I had this problem too - couldn’t do much with it at all. I’ve now read that these elastics are not all the same, but how do you distinguish between the different types?
@@dale3404 thank you, your response is so nice. I was being nosy I guess. But my mom says I can ask enough questions to make a preacher cuss. I truly wanted to know, for comparison reasons. Again thanks.
Will the tape perish in temperature higher than 30 degrees Celsius? Also, do we have to be extremely careful when it comes to ironing and tumble - drying? Thank you for the video.
In my experience, drying has never been a problem for it. But you don't want to put a hot iron directly on it or it will melt. As long as there is at least 1 layer of fabric covering it and you don't leave the iron on that spot for longer than needed it should be just fine.
Yes, avoiding a hot iron is key. I mentioned this while recording the video, but I accidentally managed to record that section without the mic plugged in, and then I forgot to mention the heat info when I did the re-record! But 40 degrees Celsius is fine in my experience.
@@Thelaststitch thank you so much for your kind reply. I've never even seen this tape in shops as I hadn't been out now for a very long time. Another lockdown plus my life and I don't go out at all. Amazon probably has it I'd guess. Thank you again, can't wait to use it....one day. All the best.
@@Thelaststitch Do they have a website? I'm in the EU. I always use clear elastic for stabilising knit shoulders and for gathering. I go through a lot of it and the Prym/Dritz work out expensive.
I used clear elastic for several years in various items to realize that in time, they deteriorate bad. In the long run, they are a waste of time and money. I only use original elastics and have had no problem.
Several sewing teachers say you MUST stretch clear elastic out before you use it. Do you agree? It still maintains the stretch but doesn’t grow that way...?
In .my experience, it depends. The thicker one I show in the video has great recovery whereas tinner, more flimsy ones might need pre-stretching I've found
Clear elastic is unsustainable, toxic, and also highly allergenic for the 2% of the population like me allergic to "Elastoplast" / colophony / rosin, which includes also elastane / spandex / lycra / polyurethane / elastics. It causes angry, severely itchy red rashes which ooze and bleed (eczema). I really wish commercial clothing manufacturers would STOP putting this elastic in ALL even otherwise 100% GOTS / organic cotton garments. It is not required, not helpful, not sustainable, and highly toxic and allergenic. Please could you instead do a video on how to REMOVE said toxic, allergenic elastic out of all of the hundreds of garments we have to buy (to get otherwise GOTS / organic cotton garments, otherwise safe for allergies)?
