great tips. I am a stained glass artist and my glass shelves are not looking super strong, so I REALLY needed some direction to override my panic mode. Thank you!!
I just used your 2nd method to fix 5 sagging closest shelves. I added edging on both the front and back using pocket holes from the shelf into the edging. It fixed the sagging and added adequate strength. Thanks for the tip!
Structurally, the number one way is to put a ledger board along the back edge of the shelf. If the center front edge still sags, miter cut the front edge and glue another mitered strip (for example a 1x2 standing vertically) to it. Both miters go "face to face" and there's no exposed plywood on the front edge of the shelf.
@@RockyRiverWoodworks Just free hand. But you’re right... alignment is the devil. I use these pointed metal inserts I got years ago. They help transfer the hole positions from the shelf to the backer. Then it’s just drilling into the backer and install the dowels.
You could always apply some of the methods mentioned to build the shelf correctly from the start. For example, but the shelf with a support runner under the front edge or back edge.
What's your recommendation for cheaper bookcases that don't have a backer board? Mine has that thin cardboard backing and the shelves are held up by resting on top of two pins in holes sticking out of the side boards. Any help is appreciated!
My first thought would be to add a support piece under the shelf and secure it to the sides with either wood glue and/or screws through the outside of the side pieces, if that's an option?
What about running a dado and adding recessed square steel tubing the entire length of the shelf. I know its a pricier option, but for a really long run of custom shelving, is there any other downside to doing it this way?
I'm redoing our closet and on the shelves will be ~ 3' stretch. I'm using 1/2" plywood (for space more than anything. it's a small closet). I'll be doing the backer board and the front edge piece. If I ran vertical strips from the backer to the front edge piece, do you think that would be strong enough to prevent sagging?
You could try using an iron or steam to heat up the fibers of the wood and bend it back into place by clamping it between 2 straight edges. I'm not positive that this method will work but it is worth a try.
You’re right. If you are able to implement one of these methods as “preventative” ahead of time, maybe you can prevent the shelf from becoming warped beyond repair.
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Thank you! The top shelf in our kitchen is sagging, and the screws have broken through. My plan is to screw a block of wood to the face portion as a support, and use L brackets for the sides that have started coming down as well!
