Bassam salim I’ve had that happen plenty of times running nitrous with nitrous backfires. Most of the time it would just blow the intake box apart or elbow off the throttle body but every now and again I would get big one that would blow the box into pieces or blow out a head gasket. All I can say is thank god for arp head studs, they’ve saved me a lot on stretched head bolts lol.
Was forced to drive 10km on an engine that had exploded and sent bits down the road once. Saw flames coming from the engine compartment, and knew the car would never go again, but had no choice as I live in the middle of nowhere, and it was 2am. Definitely wasn't firing on all cylinders, and was gradually getting slower, but it made it. Somehow it still cranked over after that, albeit with the sound of a bucket of nails coming out of it.
Yes, but you want to hold the throttle wide open instead of pumping it. That way, you won't be operating the accelerator pump, which is usually the culprit when people inadvertently flood an engine. Also works well for a hot engine that is vapor locked!
@@Cruz474 Not on a carbonated engine. Pumping the gas actuates the accelerator pump which squirts gas into the intake. Holding the gas down would be giving it more air.
same with flooded. in a non carby all you do is jam your foot on the gas and crank it over till it clears out. or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it till it clears out. hardly one of the worst noises hahahaha
The first sound (seized engine) also sounds a lot like a (mostly) dead battery or bad starter, so don't immediately condemn your car without having it checked if it makes that sound. Also, the flooded engine sound in modern fuel injected cars is more likely "out of gas" or "failed fuel pump" or even "blown fuse/relay", all very repairable. Finally, the bad CV joint is relatively inexpensive to fix on most cars, especially if you do it early before it fully separates. The "thrown rod" (really, more likely a "bad rod bearing") is definitely a bad sign and will often be associated with low oil pressure. If you experience these symptoms, the best thing you can do is shut the engine off and have it repaired immediately. Continuing to drive it will only ensure the engine gets completely destroyed. There are other things that can make the "thrown rod" sound, most are pretty serious, so if in doubt have it looked at.
my old car made the "seized engine" sound solely during the first 1-2 minutes after i turned it off. any idea if it could've still been the battery or starter in that circumstance?
@@jamespierce8169 My immediate suspicion based on your description is that it’s electrical. Hot wires have higher resistance, so if a wire (or more likely, a connection) just “barely” works when cool or cold, it can completely stop working when hot. Of course there are many wires and connections that all need to work perfectly to turn the starter, but first thing I’d be doing in your case is checking the battery cables, especially the terminals (ends). The terminals on the battery itself are often exposed to acid, and the cable attached to the starter (bottom of the engine) is exposed to a lot of moisture, salt, and road grime. The “quick and dirty” method I’ve used in the past to diagnose a cable is have someone sit in the car and turn the key to start, then I move the cables around, gently at first, then more aggressively - from above and below the car. If I can get the starter to do something, bingo, it’s a cable - and often the problem is between the copper wire and the terminal. If that doesn’t work, I break out the multimeter and start looking for voltage to the start solenoid, which is the next thing I’d be suspecting in your case. There are solder joints, windings, and a big plate inside that all need to be electrically sound. Now, it’s POSSIBLE you had a severe overheat condition in which case the engine can “seize” when it’s hot, but turn again when cool. But if your engine ran fine until you shut the key off, I wouldn’t suspect that at all.
Seriously though, the sound of a thrown rod is almost how my car sounds on very cold mornings (colder than 20 degrees F). It's so bad I have to let it warm up before I start moving since it makes me cringe.
@@aian9597 The oil is thinner at those temperatures also. Lots of things can cause tapping like that. Could be carbon build up or valve ping from pre-ignition. Sometimes it's even the valves snapping shut if you have an aggressive cam. I think you're right, though. Motors will tap on startup sometimes because it takes time to pull the oil up from the pan.
Flooded engine is not bad. There’s a trick. Push the pedal all the way down when you run the starter. It won’t give the engine any more gas and allow the engine to clear.
@@jwalster9412 that’s what I was thinking 😂 maybe it was a honda or something back when k series were like 300 bucks running. Pay the guy to swap it and come back in a week That’s the “quickest” fix i can think of
OMFG can you PLEASE put one of these together with just every possible noise imaginable? Need it so I can let friends hear what their problems sound like.
Some of the noises sound the same sometimes or have very minute differences that depend on the engine and part specs, a connecting rod knocking on one car could sound like a damaged catalytic converter on another or even the same car, and there's also the noises being separate for idling vs running, shifting up or shifting down, etc..I am a newbie but this is what I've gathered from being wrong a couple times.
Thank you so much for this video! I was googling and trying RU-vid for ages trying to find the right noise that my car makes and now thanks to this video I know its my CV joints!! Thank you!!
You can't have all of them at once. Your CV joints can't make noise unless the car is moving, which it won't be doing with a seized engine. Also, an engine which may or may not be flooded, and/or have thrown a rod can't make those sounds if it is seized. Additionally, the transmission can't make noise unless the engine is running.
1 could also be a bad starter. Solenoid will suck the gear in mesh with the flywheel but not be able to turn it over. I had that happen on my s15, a little copper disk in the solenoid had burned up. (The copper disk makes contact with the starter motor contacts once the gear has meshed with the flywheel)
Smokes underneath = leaking tranny fluid (probably) Smells like burnt oil or exaust = leaks a little oil onto the exaust pipe. Screeching of tires when driving normally = bad alignment, tie rods or ball joints. Clicking when you turn the key with a good battery or nothing at all = electical short or bad starter if the engine isnt locked up. White or blue smoke coming out of the exaust even after engine is warm and its hot outside and the engine overheats for no apparent reason = blown head gasket. And I mean a BIG CLOUD OF SMOKE.
The siezed engine one is caused by your electronic starter motor trying to crank the combustion engine. However since the combustion engine is not rotatable anymore all you get is that noise if the starter trying to spin it over and failing immediately. The torn rod clack clack clack is caused by the connection rod that connects the piston and crankshaft having one of it's bearings fail. So instead of sliding along it's bearings it slides and bangs up and down with the piston. The hydrolocked one may sound like your car just isn't starting. Which is because it isn't. Which is because instead of Air and Fuel you've got water in your combustion chamber. A tip if you are lucky and your car just stalls after hydrolocking. Don't start it again immediately. Instead pull the spark plugs or glow plugs and them crank it for some time. The watwr will be expelled and you might just be able to drive again. Trying to start it immediately may cause damage to the pistons, valves and piston rings, so don't.
From my experience a seized engine sounds distinct from bad battery or starter. In both of the latter cases, all you will get is a light "click" as if nothing is even happening. Seized engine has a more noticeable grind to it. I am just a lsyman though, not a mechanic.
@@rhysf.505 The reason a seized engine hurt to listen to is because their is so much resistance, you can hear that it's stuck and unable to rotate, and the little starter is trying so hard to push it but there's no hope
Rod knock and a thrown rod are not the same thing, and sound drastically different. One sounds like a knocking, the other sounds like an explosion and the engine stops working.
Cv joints aren’t bad to replace, just remove the wheel and wheel bearing, put a pan under the trans where the cv goes in, pop it out, put the new one in, bolt everything back up, put the lost fluid back in. I’m sure there are some cars that over engineer them though.
well, i was driving on the highway, all of a sudden caught 3 first, then 2 when the smoke came, then 1 when i tried to turn it back on on the highway......THANK YOU RENAULT FOR destroying NISSANS REPUTATION.
sadly for me the valve cover needed to be replaced and I had no idea until I got a new engine. AGAIN THANK YOU RENAULT. whats worse now is that theres some loud whining noise inside the engine so.. smhwtfomfg
The last noise referred to as a transmission problem only happens to me when I'm going up a hill... Yet there's no check engine light. Should I be worried?
Dont know what caused it but when accelerating out of my driveway I heard what can only be described as the grinding sound one hears when trying to shift gears with the clutch pedal not fully pressed down in a really old truck. no clue what makes that sound in a 2003 automatic nissan did notice the mechanic i had put a new alternator on had tightened the accessories' belt to the point of no flex at all so it was probably the spindle of one of the accessories being pinned into its own bearings.
"Thrown rod"? All my experiences with a thrown rod are a lot noisier, a lot shorter and then mostly silent. Sounds more like a big end bearing knock or a gudgeon pin issue???
the thrown rod sounded like my 1.9tdi after standing for some months, but the difference is that the sound got away by letting it warm up and run several times
Hello there. I got a 2008 Toyota Camry that ran out of oil while I was driving and it stopped. It had a bad noise. Could it possible have damaged the engine?
I'm having that problem right now with my 09 Malibu. The grinding sound they make when I slow or stop my car is driving me up the wall. I'm planning to get my brakes fixed soon.
With a thrown rod does the noise go away when the car heats up? I have a car with barely 115k miles but you never know I guess. It's had It for about 30k miles though and I haven't had issues and It's only sometimes It happens. I have a whiny noise on the passenger side now though that most likely Is just a serpentine belt.
Jose Pina or the idler pulley or belt tensioner. Get some wd40. And spray the pulleys. Whatever one you spray stops squeaking then you go from there. Fix it cheap first. Parts yards
Jose Pina oooh i have that car too with the v6. The ticking noise means that your valve clearance is getting loose and will need to be adjusted. Just look at the forums at .www.v6performance.net/forums/7th-generation-honda-accord-2003-2007/#/topics/106073
My 84 Dacia had a seized engine and i had to fix the valves, it often gets flooded and the transmission sounds worse than the one in the recording. That's the life of a classic car enthusiast.
daddyjankie Not the new ones, but the old ones did have alot of issues. New ones are pretty great for reliability aside from the powershift Fiesta and focus and early gen ebs.
The way I once heard the CV Joint and Thrown Rod in a daily basis during my working hours coming from a 2015 Mitsubishi ASX that would pass by daily in that same street 💀💀💀
My hyundai just started making the sound like diesel engine, it makes a knocking noise and when you accelerate it sounds like a yeehaw truck pushing hard down a highway. Does that mean my car is on deaths door?
I have a thrown rod (it hasn’t completely thrown but it has gotten worse since the problem came about) luckily my parents paid for me to get a new engine.
I wish the 5 things were re-phrased versions of those with little sexual references followed by noises that could be mistaken for a rhythmic squeaking (maybe from a cars suspension, maybe from a bed) or a moaning from a "tired engine"
