Would think a fun challenge and to vet your choices is to only use these 50 tools for a couple months. After the couple months are over re- evaluate and see if you would make any changes.
Great idea. I’d like to see him use these fifty tools exclusively for a month to see how complete the list truly is, nothing better than testing your gear in real life. It would be interesting to see what you would add or replace with an alternate on the list after a months use. I might try it myself for a month myself, sounds like a challenge!
That's exactly how I determined what tools I needed on my motorcycle tool roll. Because you can't take everything. A couple of shake down camping trips and a disassembly enough to adjust the valves. Figured that nearly every fastener would be covered with that example. As I reached for the tool to complete an action, I set it aside. When the bike was all buttoned up, those were the tools I now permanently keep on the bike.
A cool idea, but not what this series is intended for. It is intended to help direct people to the more important tools that you can get by with in a pinch, and to outline a good starter setup (watch the first video), not what his specific life goals are and I doubt the camera is one of the 50. How will he make videos or upload them without the use of a camera, a computer, a router..... ;) I'd rather see him progress his homestead to the best of his abilities with all the tools he has accumulated over his lifetime.
I think God everyday for my father and my grandfather. Both have sadly passed. My grandfather was a general contractor and my father was a mechanic. I have 3 or 4 duplicates of all of these thanks to them and the Lord.
Hey Cody, you probably have a lot on your hands besides this series. However, when you were showing that rope, I was wondering wether you can do a series on how to use one and the different type of knots for different situations ?.
A Pickaxe has a point and a very narrow, dull blade; it's shaped for breaking and levering out rock. A mattock has a wider, sharper blade and can have either a pick or narrow axe oriented blade opposite, ideal for chopping and prying out thick roots and rootballs. I've struggled with a pickaxe to cut through thick roots that a mattock would've made short work of and you'd ruin a mattock working rocks with its blade.
Carolina Traveling With James Montgomery A mattox is.not the same as a pick axe . A mattox consists of a pick end and typically something like a hoe end . A pick axe is for breaking rocks and such , a mattox is used for digging when it's to hard to use a shovel , you basically plow out the dirt and smash rocks when need be
I’m a framer and when trusses or lumber get delivered with metal bands you can break them using your hammer claws by twisting the band, no need for tin snips for metal bands.
To cut metal banding 2 crescent wrenches placed next to each other and tightened to the thickness of the band then use scissor action to easily cut the band.
David Twigg ehh a claw hammer is handy for shipping crates and pallets still I'd think you'd want the tin snips when you go for the stainless steel foil and other shim stock
David Twigg yep Ford would definitely have most of the bases covered and any luxuries that help speed things up you probably wouldn't need the stainless foil as you'd have pre treated parts or a fancy oven that removes the oxygen from the heat box
jeffnorris4 yep that's a good way when the strap has no room under it as they typically like to pull on the thick and wide steel banding straps some times it's that or get the hammer and chisel
In regards to your choice of a "pipe wrench" I feel you need (2) pipe wrenches. In plumbing applications; having two wrenches in opposing directions gives you tremendous power to loosen older pipes.
cmdrsocks a crescent wrench wont grip round pipe but a big slip joint pliers will so I would have a pipe wrench and slip joint pliers one for holding and one for turning
You are correct, my point though is that just one wrench of any type is a bit useless. As you say, one for holding and one for turning. That being said, check out this beauty:- www.crescenttool.com/sockets-and-sets/x6tm-sockets-2/crescent-cptaw8-x6tm-pass-thrutm-adjustable-wrench-set.html Now you can grip pipes with a crescent wrench and much more besides. I believe I have just found my next "must have" tool.
I used to work for a grave digging crew when I was fresh out of high school we would dig the graves by hand a mattock is a necessary tool for digging through Red Georgia clay it never fails when you dig something as deep as a grave in Georgia you are gonna run across some clay and it’s hard as a rock. And the trick of running a bolt through a mattock is something we did it allows you to get a full swing in and not worry about the head sliding down the shaft. Also digging a grave by hand is something I hope to never do again it is some of the hardest work I ever did.
I recommend an angle grind because you can cut or grind metal and then there's another thousand things to put on one and they aren't that expensive. When I round out a bolt i get the angle grinder and cut a slot for a straight blade screwdriver.
Regardless, I was shocked to hear on your RU-vid post that you got "death threats" and "hate mail". I would like to investigate those threats (free of charge) if you would like my company to. We have a staff to challenge unwarranted attacks.
2# spade shovel,speed square,24oz framing hammer,dead blow ball peen hammer,4' level,Wyeth-Scott coma-along,hi-lift jack are some of my go to tools and suggestions.
You have an error. Braided nylon rope. Yes, it is an excellent rope,, but,,, no nylon,,, zero nylon ropes are static ropes. That includes both braided and twisted.nylon. The huge benefit of nylon IS its ability to stretch, it can elongate as much as 40% and return to its proper size and without loss of strength,, The safety line for the body harness working the roof, or the impetus line for a tree removal. Please note,,, the tree felling line to pull in the direction you want the tree to fall,,, if you use a static line,, you get great pull for the first one foot,, then the rope is slack,,, whereas a dynamic rope acts like a rubber band and keeps puling through that first 'recovery' of length. Ah ha ! The guide rope on a tree fall is the rope set 90 degrees to the intended fall direction,, and that IS a static rope. The best, and most common static rope will be a dacron, or polyester rope,, double braid,, and sailboat halyard quality. Easiest, best place to get it is the marine supplier. Many polyester ropes can be static. The toughest strongest, least stretch will be Dynema, Vectran, or especially Spectra. The ultimate in strength and no stretch, IMHO is Spectra rope You want static rope? This is static rope like no other. Spectra is based upon Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene , UHMWPE. This is the stuff that gives steel nightmares. Size for size,, consider 3/8 Spectra line vs 3/8 solid stainless steel rod as used in rigging racing masts, Spectra is stronger and stretches less than solid stainless rod. A new Spectra 3/8th inch 12 strand can lift 7 tons. The Spectra is stronger and stretches less than the solid rod of stainless steel. And weighs 1/10th as much. And a surprisingly soft 'hand' to it as well.
Laughing,, it is that odd combination of sailing, owned sailboats for 15 years, and felling lots of trees, a couple of Jonsereds. I watch this channel because of a deep respect for a good hammer handle, a pair of pipe wrenches, a smooth or jack plane, a really nice bit and brace, a framing square,,,,,
In parachute rigging / skydiving we commonly use Spectra, Dacron, Vectran, and Technora for suspension and control lines. Dacron is the most stretchy of those four. Spectra is a relatively durable line, but the issue it has is that if it sees a lot of rubbing it will heat up and shrink, so if you have several lengths that you're counting on to remain the same size relative to one another you can get into trouble if they rub or see different amounts of heating (I realize that's a very application-specific knock on Spectra.) Technora is incredibly rigid and stays dimensionally stable when heated, but it can be very difficult to gauge wear. When using Technora lines in skydiving you have to just count your jumps on the lineset and replace them on a schedule rather than having a "replace them when they look like XYZ" type of metric.
Yes, Chaz. Things have progressed. Counting openings,, My LR-288 has 800 # Kevlar (I am a large human) I used to think in terms of 400 openings for the older 400# Kevlar. Do you have knowledge as to replacement cycle on the 800# Kevlar? 20 years old at this point ad 200 total jumps Not sure I will ever jump that rig again, but it would be nice to know. (Last time out the door for me was 9 ? years ago.)
I know it's not really a "rope" but I do keep a rather long hank of Spectra Fusion cord on hand. I know it's 3mm and only rated for 1500 lbs, but it's good enough for my kit.
The Stanley fat max is definitely better. I'm a general contractor and I've used every tape measure made and the fat max is by far better than dewalt and miluakee and any one else's.
I recently started my collection and the Wiss snips were one of the first tools I purchased myself. They were just so affordable and useful. I’m always grabbing them from my truck at work. I’m glad I bought them.
Can't afford one. What I mean is I can't afford to keep replacing them because they are so easy to destroy doing things that you wouldn't expect to cause them to break.
I love my Leatherman. I've put it through it's paces working in the oilfield for 6.5 years it held up to everything I put it through. It even survived being dropped in acid
Interesting so far that you've gone for a hacksaw and a pair of snips, both of which could be replaced with an angle grinder, plus with a variety or disks and wire wheel bits a grinder can do so much more. Sort of like comparing the coping saw to a jigsaw in my opinion! Will he interesting to see if a grinder follows!
I find a good pair of linesman pliers absolutely indispensable. I have a pair on my belt everyday. They typically will serve whatever i need from cutting wire or fence, to pulling nails, to turning bolts or nuts, and occasionally as a hammer in a pinch. Just a great all around tool!
A good utility knife is a must. I have a Stanley "Quickslide sport". Has a 3" half-serrated blade on one side, and a boxcutter blade on the other. You have to make a minor modification to enable the fixed blade to be opened one-handed, but having disposable blades on one side makes it a super useful tool. images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/419lsW5i9nL._SL1000_.jpg
I have a pair of snips about twice that size I got from my old man with a red handle that's shaped like a handle for scissors. Works great but it's a tad big
That was only 9 tools. Where is number 20? You said that the cordless drill was 17 or 18 and didn't actually have a 17. I was taking notes and missed something there I guess.
I bet saying the length of that rope hurt :) Thanks for the info about the mattix (sic?) I didn't even know what it was called, always thought of it as that heavy tool that nobody likes to use.
The first tool is a "mattock" not a matix. I just bring it up because when talking to seasoned farmers, they sometimes make judgements on your skills based on the terminology used. In the Southeast, a mattock is a must have tool to break up red clay when digging a trench as well as cutting roots.
Cody - Where's the FIRE EXTINGUISHER? Since we're coming up on the Holiday Season, one of the best gifts to give and one of the most useful "tools" you'll (hopefully) never need is a good multi-purpose fire extinguisher. And you can never have too many - one in the kitchen, one in the workshop, one in the car...
I find the - Fencing Pliers -Dual Wire Cutter or Fencing tool - to be a very handy multi purpose item to have handy - especially for a travel kit when space is a concern.
Wranglerstar, Refinery Operators use Aluminum versions of 8-10" pipe wrench as a working tool to turn big valves. Selection of Aluminum is made as a safety strategy, the theory being, that if a valve is so stuck that an aluminum pipe wrench won't turn the valve without breaking, then we *want* the pipe wrench to break *before* the valve breaks, thus preventing broken valves or valve handles(and hence, fires). In that case we want the refinery maintenance department to come repair the valve before the Operator tries to open or close it. Besides aluminum is easier to carry all day!
Hand saws need to be on the list. Would this set count as a "single tool"?... i.imgur.com/3g17mW0.jpg These are what I use. Their system has a single super-ergonomic handle, with a whole bunch of detachable blades for various uses. Replacement blades are priced pretty reasonably too. I don't have the fancy carry case as there's only really four blades I use regularly (short 16" general purpose blade which fits in my tool bag, 24" course blade, 24" fine blade, Tenon saw blade)
On battery life: I recently talked to a local tol shop owner who seems to be pretty knowledgeable. And he had a cooperation with our local university or something and apparently worked alongside a real battery expert aka scientist on battery technology. What that scientist told him is that Li-Ion batteries INEVITABLY start losing battery life after 7 years - because the very material of the electrodes will start to dissolve. So 7 years, the batteries will start to degrade after that, one wa or another. And I guess that only the value for really good batteries. We all know cheap batteries will give up much earlier, possibly due to other malfunctions.
buy a drill with a CORD ! unless your work requires you to move around a lot where a cord would not be feasible. Cord Drills are more powerful, and cheaper and will outlast cordless drill. You may have a cordless...but there is no reason not to have a drill with a cord too
I'm loving this video series so far. I was wondering if you could do a review for the "BLACK+DECKER BDEJS600C 5.0-Amp Jig Saw". I'd love to hear your feedback on it since it is at such an appealing price. Thank you very much!
Put a Cordless saws-all (reciprocal saw) in your list. This thing is realy usefull when your not in your home. With the great blade, you can cut anythings. Cut a Animal (Hunting), Cuting wood, metal, pipe, bolts, nails....
as a mechanic, or anyone really, i would say a multi-meter is SUPER important. if you're doing something that requires precision, definitely a nicer quality one(fluke), for DC and AC, its not replaceable by any other tool.
I would challenge your choice of screwdriver with the sabertooth tools ratcheting t driver. Pluses over the 4-in-1 screwdriver; 6 sizes,2 way ratchet and fold out handle also smaller
Knipex 10 inch pliers wrench. They make a lot of other sizes but the 10 is my go too. Fantastic for plumbing work and for sheet metal, the flat/parallel faces don't mare what you're working on and cause indents like regular groove cut pliers. Very well made too, i'd be lost without mine.
Richard Red bar/scraper. You can use it as a pry bar, paint scraper nail puller, baseboard remover. it gets into really tight spaces, and aside from a pencil, knife and tape, it's one of my most reached for tools.
I'm really hoping you mention a good solid vice. Constantly overlooked and the workhorse of EVERY workshop, without one everything is so much harder, less reliable and more dangerous. so my vote goes to the underrated vice. loving the videos, keep up the good work
After much head scratching, I learned that the yellow handled 'straight' snips are designed mainly for snipping just an inch or so into the edge of sheet steel that's going to be folded. Reds are designed to steer to the left (think of the nautical/aviation red port light) but can also cut straight. Greens steer to the right (or starboard!). Ideally you'd have both red and green to cut curves and sections with minimal distortions but you can manage with either one; I read conflicting advice as to which is best for right or left handed people. As a right hander I opted for red since I can see myself most often cutting anti clockwise around something held in my left hand. However others advise that green allows you to move away the waste material with your left hand so I'd suggest research and decide for yourself. Either way yellow 'straight' snips seem the least useful of the set since both red and green offsets can cut straight too whilst also being angled so that one's hand is out of the way of the metal during long cuts.
more stuff you need in the 50...Claw/Trim Hammer, Framing Hammer, Cross Cut Saw, Bow Saw, Speed Square, Framing Square, Clamps (many), Circular Saw, Ladder, Wire Strippers, Wood Plane(s), 5 in 1 Tool, Saw Horses, Chisel Set, Flashlight, Tool Belt (bag), Wood and Metal files, Sanding Block, Shovel, Garden Rake, Leaf Rake....I can go on....
You don't need wire strippers if you have a good set of dikes, which was mentioned in the previous video. A sanding block? They are nice to have, but if you don't have one on hand a piece of a 2x4 will work all the same.
Allen wrenches, gerbil feeders, toilet seats, electric heaters, trash compactors, juice extractors, shower rods and water meters, Walkie-talkies, copper wires, safety goggles, radial tires, BB pellets, rubber mallets, fans and dehumidifiers, picture hangers, paper cutters, waffle irons, window shutters, paint removers, window louvres, masking tape and plastic gutters, kitchen faucets, folding tables, weather stripping, jumper cables, hooks and tackle, grout and spackle, power foggers, spoons and ladles, pesticides for fumigation, high-performance lubrication, metal roofing, water proofing, multi-purpose insulation, air compressors, brass connectors, wrecking chisels, smoke detectors, tire guages, hamster cages, thermostats and bug deflectors, trailer hitch demagnetizers, automatic circumcisers, tennis rackets, angle brackets, Duracells and Energizers, soffit panels, circuit breakers, vacuum cleaners, coffee makers, calculators, generators and matching salt and pepper shakers will take you a long way.
"channel locks" are not an actual tool name they're a brand name...the real name of the often stated "channel locks" is a groove joint pliers or hose pliers
A trick for cutting metal bands is to get two adjustable wrenches and put them on the band and push one and pull the other. Not as good as tin snips but works well in a pinch.
A very important tool that makes a huge impact in making anything is a good accurate Level and Marking Tool. Keeping things at the right angle is very important in a lot of projects and being able to double check your marks and lines before cutting has saved me more than a few times.
You made an honerable mention towards it, but I'd strongly suggest a good pair or channel locks. Like a pipe wrench it has teeth and a direction. I'm a steamfitter and these are go to EDCs on a job site for me. I prefer them over a crescent for the same applications. In my opinion they're extremely useful (maybe not for finish work). Keep up the great work! I've been looking forward to these!
I have worked in a variety of trades and a good pair of channelocks are almost as versatile as a crescent wrench, slip joint pliers, and vise grips combined. Right now I work in a truck shop and I carry a flashlight, a multi-plier, a folding pocket knife and a small pair (7”) of knipex cobra pliers. Can do everything from grabbing rounded off nuts and screws, to picking up hot metal, prying open containers, picking up small parts, tightening/loosening nuts and bolts and pipe. Can even strip wire in a pinch or pull nails and staples. I strongly suggest trying out a pair or two as a set. Save me carrying around multiple tools
As far as a tool to have, I love surgical forceps. Not only are they a very small set of needle nose, they are engineered to operate in small spaces, and have precision teeth. The locking mechanism will hold tiny items while you work on them (soldering, anyone?).
Coming from a tin knocker..... I would recommend a red handled off set as the most versatile and easiest to use set of snips... you'll cut your knuckles less with red handled off sets....
Cody, this is for the tool historian/collector in you: So what you have there is indeed a pick/mattock, as some have pointed out. (For months I thought my crew leader was saying pick-matic, like some kind of automatic pick.) It's a combination of two tools that you used to be able to buy seperately very commonly, the mattock, a kind of digging adze, and the pick, which you can still find in specialty stores. Put them together and you have the pick/mattock. You covered the other most popular variation, taking an axe, or cutter, a head that looks a lot like a metal version of a stone axe, and combining it with the mattock, the combination usually being called a cutter/mattock. Finally, you have the railroad pick, a pick on one side, and a horizontally oriented chisel on the other, like a narrow, long, robust mattock. Collect them all!
