"If they don't look pleased that you've taken a shot, you just keep holding the camera up! You just pretend you're taking a picture of something behind them." You've changed my life.
Kit zooms are a good way of working out which focal length you use most. Force yourself to leave it on 28, 35 and 50mm or equivalents for a week each, and see which is the least frustrating. Then buy an equivalent prime, or just keep the zoom if you're not fussed about bokeh-pokey or size.
I did this at one point, incredible advice for someone exploring the gateway drug that is primes. Ditto comment for how important of a learning tool this is.
I agree! This 4th time I’m come across this video and now I’m just going to subscribe. But I thought the same about his voice the first few times also.
Since I bought a 28 mm I've come to realise that it's the most versatile prime lens of all. You can capture arcitecture as well as great landscape scenes or night shots. I leave it on the camera all the time. The only draw back really is portrait.
P-O Andersson yes. 35 is easier to shoot with and more natural, but really the 28 is more versatile if you don’t mind getting close sometimes. If you are also shooting cityscapes, landscape, low light, general travel more so than up close portraits it is the one to get. I use an 18 mm f2 on Fuji x e2
The 28 is exceptional for dramatic and intimate portraits if you can get a little closer to the subject and have an immersive background. The drama it creates is unmatched. Everything wider is unacceptably distorted for faces.
The most difficult part about choosing a focal length is that I'm still on a crop-sensor right now.. so my 50mm feels like an 85, and the 35mm is more like a 55. I think that's part of the reason why 35mm is a popular length; because it's the 50mm for crop bodies
It's funny that when I come back to a video 4 years later, I have a different perspective. When it comes to street photography, what lens, camera, or ISO you have means absolutely nothing. What should be taught is what to look for. Some of the best street photography you see today can't be defined by the gear used, because it doesn't matter. Capture a scene or story, something that won't likely be caught again and you've succeeded, pure and simple.
The fact that Kai cited well known photographers that used each focal length bears that out. They are all proper, depending on the style. Which one gives the kind of images you want?
I love the 35mm lens but I find myself needing/wanting a wider frame like the 28mm a lot of times at my weddings. I only care about the 50mm when shooting portraits and editorials..
I think that's because of the myth that a 50 is like human vision when it's not. Each eye might be like a 50 but our vision is two lenses and two sensors put together which a camera isn't. To mimic human vision, you'd need more like a 35. (Not sure of the exact maths)
I just unscruibed from the channel because I thought all these years it was his channel. And I only watched the reviews he made. So I'm happy hes getting a ton of subscribers I see him hitting a million in a few months.
I'm a cheapo who can't afford red rings or the letter "A" (Sigma Art) on my lenses, so I have been using the 24mm f2.8 pancake lens with my crop-sensored 70D. Converts to about 38mm. Serving me well so far! The 40mm pancake should be quite good also, albeit a little tight. helps that they are very small and light, too, though lenses of that focal range can get very heavy, bulky and expensive very quickly, like the red-ringed or Art monsters previously mentioned.
I'm no photographer and no physicist, I'm a medical student who's into photography. I never got the whole notion of 50 mm being the "human eye" equivalent. I've used 50 mm lenses quite a bit, and to me, personally, it never felt like they reflect how I, as a person, see and perceive the world. 50 mm feels way too zoomed in. 35 mm feels much closer to how the world looks to me.
I partially agree to your statement, but I think the working distance & the background blur is probably more similar to 50 mm equivalent than that to 35 mm. Btw another medico interested in photography here!
I noticed this also. However if you look through the viewfinder at a subject with a 50mm and then remove the camera from your eye and then look at that same subject the appearance will be the same. That to me is why they say it's the equivalent to the human eye. This doesn't mean our perspective around us is the same as viewing through a 50mm lens. If that makes any sense. Our perspective is a lot wider. More along the lines of 28mm-35mm imo, when it comes to capturing what you see with photography.
When you leave both eyes open and look through the viewfinder, the images from your roght and left eye dont conflict as everything is just as big in the 50mm eyes view as it is in the lensless eyes view
I think a lot of people love the 35mm focal length because it looks great on a cropped censor - which is what most people use. 50mm on a cropped censor is a little too tight for street photography I think.
Idk, I found the 50 in an APSC to be comfortable for street photography and even portraits, granted I like candid pictures and not just of people walking around, were I in a tight street however, i'd definitely be needing a 35, or even better, a fast wide to short tele (17-50 2.8).
I also like the 50mm on apsc (Nikon) for portraits. But when i got the 85mm it is way better for portraits. But for street i also use my 35mm. For macro 40mm . I love using primes.
ALIENSHADZ 13 In asia people have to worry about more important shit other than a random stranger with a camera. Ive never been confronted for taking a photo in asia before
yow. kai ? please do continue on making photography videos. you are the one who i look up to when it comes to taking photos. i started watching videos of you when you're still on DRTV but since you left , DRTV seems to be falling apart, and im so so happy that you"re back again. it took me a while to find you but still im here. Best contents when photography tips/whatever you do man for me. Keepitupman
i cant take pictures actually cause i have a shitty camera on my phone and i have to use my friends phone, but as soon as i got a new phone, ill send one or two photos ive taken anf ask for your comment. Yudaman
I just got the Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 and it's an absolute dream for crop sensor photographers like myself. It gives you 20mm, 24mm, 28mm, and 35mm all in one lens with the same image quality of a prime. When I was taking photos for an alumni association's night outing at a zoo I tested the lens and it passed with flying colors!
in reality though its giving you 28mm to 56mm when you take the crop factor into account. its the reason i like to take my 24mm pancake lens out when i do street photography coz its near 40mm rather my 50mm as its 80mm. too close sometimes, deending on what i want to achieve.
If it was 100k 50 minutes ago!!! That is amazing! 135k now :D Big ups Kai! I got a great feeling that will get much better than DRTV! It looks like you didn't have that much freedom there, and being free is key :)
Right now the only Photog-Video duo that I think is worth watching is CSTV out of Canada. The energy and attitude, counter to my kind Canadian neighbors, Kai and Lok would have without the "bloody producers" would be awesome.
Can't get enough! Carried a camera in Vietnam (Nikons) served apprenticeship with a master photog, been shooting since early 60's----still learn from Kai's knowledge and style of humor!!!
I shoot with a EOS 600D/Rebel T3i. It's actually going to be converted for astrophotography that includes a custom Peltier cooling system. While I pump myself up to rip it apart and remove the IR filter from the sensor, I'm having a lot of fun with it. I have a EF-S 24mm f2.8 STM pancake, a EF 50mm f1.8 STM and a classic EF 135mm f2.8 Soft Focus. I bought the 135mm back in 1987 when it was first released. I was then using an EOS 650 body and later the EOS 620. Thirty three years on and the lens is still working perfectly. That how good Canon lens are. All of these lenses are fantastic. I think prime lenses are the dog's bollocks! I'm having so much fun with these primes, I'm thinking about buying an second hand, low shutter count EOS 650D/Rebel T5i body to replace the 600D. I'll probably also buy the EF-S 35mm f2.8 IS STM Macro lens. I don't need all the bells and whistles in later model bodies, just the Magic Lantern hack 😀.
I've had lots of clients buying a lens for their APSs because "50/35/28mm is the best" and then getting a nasty surprise when the AOV is not at all what they were expecting. You guys should really emphasize that you're talking about 50/35/28mm *equivalent*. That's obviously 50/35/28mm on a full frame, but around 32/23/18mm on an APS.
They beat this horse so much in the DR videos I would not blame Kai if he ever explains it again. I would agree it is important information. Maybe if he had a standard "FAQ" video to point people to each time instead of wasting 5 minutes on each video (only a waste in how repetitive it would be, I am all for learning here) so the experienced are not bothered with repeat stuff and the new guys are not completly lost.
Kreston lee This is not DRTV, it's a new channel, so a nice opportunity to clarify the issue was lost here (a relevant topic, as you can see by the amount of comments that are raising the question of AOV). Also, it takes about 5 seconds to say something like "50mm equivalent (50 on a full frame, 32 on an APS)". Amateurs that don't understand it can always search the amazing internet in search of answers - but at least they've been warned that 50mm is not always 50mm.
I agree with others statements that they should make sure people understand they're shooting full frame. Most people that I know shooting street stuff are NOT using full frame. I'm guessing crop sensor is the number choice, which is what I was using until I got my Panasonic G9, micro four thirds setup. My favorite street lens for that is a 17mm 1.4, which is equivalent to a 34mm on FF
With high resolution sensors (anything 20MP or more) the 35 is best because you can crop it easily to get the same look as the 50mm without too much loss of resolution. My favorite 2 lenses for photographing people are the 35mm f1.4 and the 85mm f1.2. These 2 lenses on separate full frame bodies can give me almost any look I need with people in situations where I can move my feet.
Man, I've discovered DRTV a few years ago when I finally bought my first DSLR, and I've been following your funny reviews ever since, which not only made me discover the wonderful world of focal lengths, lenses, bokeh, well... photography, but also while doing so, made it actually fun (which made the knowledge burn even deeper) ! Seeing you again shooting in the streets of HK is making me feel nostalgic, yet fresh vibes with the different people around, and a different music (which sounds awesome, btw) than the same Django tune that looped all over your DRTV reviews for years. BTW, I've got the feeling your street photography skills have improved greatly in this vid. Maybe the fact that you've been away for a long time, and rediscovering the place with fresher eyes ? Keep up the good work, Kai !
Ultimately, it comes down to personal style and preference. If you're a windows user, and have been shooting with a zoom lens up till now, put all of your best photos in a single folder. Then, group them by 35mm Focal Length (there are probably programs that you can buy that will also do this). The focal length with the most photos is your best bet. Now, some manufacturer's cameras will only record the actual focal length (Canon), so you may have to do some equivalence calculations (there are tools for that).
I'm a wildlife photographer, but every now and again I'll take my camera out with with me around town. My go to street lens is the Tamron 45mm f/1.8 VC. It's a bit bigger than than some would want for street photography I'd assume, but that added VC is wonderful after the sun sets.
Get a nice zoom and you have all those lengths. A kit zoom might even satisfy you. You can always get primes later if you want shallower depth of field or if you notice you take most of your shots in a narrow range of focal lengths.
honestly the kit lenses, like the 28-135mm or the 18-135 are great starter lenses, they are not technically amzing, but the focal ranges and zoom ability is versatile for the price point... beginners need to be able to see wide vs zoom to help them understand they're options and what it all looks like, they can play around, instead of being stuck and frustrated because they cant zoom in or get wide enough. most beginners will not have a full frame dslr, prolly a rebel with a crop sensor, so they need to go wider than 50mm, for years my 28-135mm wasnt wide enough, so I bought a 10-20mm sigma that solved a lot of limited situations for me.
I have the Canon nifty fifty, and I love the speed and optic quality. That said, I often find it too tight for street - so much that it spends more time in the kit bag than on the camera. Would love to try 35mm or 28mm. Great vid and shots here. Thanks Kai and Co.!
You should have thought of that first: 50mm * 1.6 (canon) = 80mm (good for portraits, too tight for street photography) 35mm * 1.6 (canon) = 56mm (close enough)
You're right, for a hundred bucks you have a nice portrait lens. You might look into the EF 20mm/2.8. It will give a 32mm field of view on a Canon APS-C, and you'll have a nice ultra-wide prime if you eventually go full frame.
// I don't know who choose the music for the old DRTV, or this, but I can say... the music always was one reason why I love the work of Kai and Lok, in this video too, the beat is just amazing, good to see You "again" Kai!!! //
This was great! Your apartment needs some art, got a PO box? Any other 28mm fans out there? Started on a 50 (loved it), moved to an 85 to shoot people (loved it more, street with an 85 is interesting tho). Picked up a 28 for a personal film project and now all I want to use is my 28 and 85. The 35 and 50 are great for distortion free and a hint of isolation (BOKEH) on the 50 but they are not as dramatic on either end of the spectrum for me. (If "standard," "exactness," "accuracy," and "distortion free," are things that fit your shooting style these are ideal.) The 28 has just enough distortion to add what feels like a cartoon quality for portraits and makes environment shots feel huge when you get close to push/pull perspective. Like you said, personal preference plays a huge role here.
Yet another guide that covers the 50mm being 'closest to what the eye sees' without even mentioning the crop/MFT situation. The end result is lots of beginners with crop bodies trying to do general walkabout shooting at very awkward 75/80mm equivalent focal length. For a long time now full frame cameras haven't been the only option, but yet all guides and articles continue to fail to manage expectations for those on smaller sensors.
I like 35mm and 45mm 1.8 lens. I dropped 50mm as soon as I started using 85mm, which is better for headshots anyway. Also I like the compression on the 85mm if I cant get to close to a subject. If I was going to carry just 2 primes with me in the street; my 35mm and 85mm covers a lot. If I was using crop Nikon body I would use the 17-55mm 2.8 and call it good. There isn't anything written in stone though, so go with what feels most comfortable.
Kai, enjoyed you on DR but even more so as an independent. Rooting for you and Lok in your new endeavors! Really liked the 3 lens comparison in today's video.
I read somewhere the 35mm in landscape frames the same width as the 28mm in portrait, so that might give 28mm a quick strategy if they are shooting portrait shots, esp for uploading to Instagram or Tiktok where portrait mode is default. The other benefit of the 28mm with high res sensors is you can crop to mimic a 35mm and still have decent detail, whereas 35mm+ you've lost any surrounding detail immediately - effectively a one way street.
I own a 35mm Nikkor lense with my D5100. Being a crop sensor means that the 35mm converts to 50mm more or less, human eye and somehow ideal for me for street photography because before looking at the screen I know the area that will be in the picture. It is really very similar to what the eye can see, however sometimes something wider would be helpful too. Great video as usual!
35mm resonates with me (and presumably those of the same age) because it was THE focal length on fixed-lens point-and-shoot compact film cameras from my youth. It’s just what you had, whatever brand you bought.
35 for me (however for portraiti I might use a 50 from time to time and if I want something wider a 28, but that is pretty much all the range I need, so I could say I completely agree with you). however I find it liberating to only have one lens with me. it helps to keep a more consistent look which I prefer.
kai on the 28mm at 8:26 "does it make a good portrait lens? not really. but im not in the business of making people look good" made me laugh real good!
Hey Kai, I have a suggestion for your channel which is something that has always bugged me about every photo/videography channel. Can you shoot the show on the lense that you are reviewing. Or at least use the same focal length. It would have been great in this video if you switched out between a 50, 35 and 28 as you talked about them. Love your work!
Does it ever get awkward taking photos of people you don't know? How do address any issues with people wanting to know why you are photographing them? Or getting angry with you?
Great video with a bit of full circle - The new Independent Kai shooting street photography in Hong Kong. Very cool of you to have Theo and Jon along, I'm sure they were stoked! :)
I switched from Canon to Sony mirrorless and my first prime was the Zeiss 55 f/1.8. It's a phenomenal lens that gave me some of the sharpest and most vibrant SOOC photos, but it was too tight for me. I sold it to buy the Zeiss 35 f/2.8 and I haven't looked back. I love capturing a sense of the environment around my street subjects.
This is exactly what I need to decide my first prime lens in the future. But first I need to gather the courage of taking random people on the street like you do. Oh, and I really love that background music btw :D
With your street photography in Hon Kong I'm always surprised how people tolerate you. In Japan, people notice that I'm taking pictures of them and don't like it so I get a lot of angry faces.
Kai, I remember seeing your first video with DRTV so many years ago. I had been watching them before you began, and I was an instant fan when you started. I've really enjoyed experiencing the evolution of your photography and style, and I look forward to this next chapter of your career. Best of luck with all you do, and I'll always be tuning in to see whats next! -Calvin
50mm is "standard" for 35mm SLRs because they need room for the mirror and anything much shorter requires a more expensive projection design. Personally my favorite lens for street photography is my 24mm f/2.8 Nikkor. It has little distortion for such a wide lens and unlike its faster brothers uses a standard 52mm filter. Yes, you do have to get close to your subject with the 24mm. You also have to get up or down to their level so you can hold your camera level. Shooting downward you get a big head and tiny feet which can be an interesting effect but not what I'm usually after on the street. I like how the 24mm brings so much of the background and ambiance into the scene. Since street photographers need to be fast the depth of field advantage of the 24mm is great since you don't really need to focus much.
