Dan, Daniel my brother! Great job!! Great car! 🎉 I remember the days when you bought a new part, it worked. Getting a bad part was unheard of... but, I'm old like Murr. Dan, I need a favor? Please pat Murr on the back and say "An old guy with cancer said you did a great job raising a great son!" ... Then tell him you love him. You never know how long us old guys will be around. Signed - Your friend, Cancer guy! 😊
I noticed on the last video the front reservoir was getting a ton of pressure while the rear was doing almost nothing while Dani was looking for bubbles.. glad you got it nailed!
Hahaha! We've all run the M/C dry while bleeding brakes! Anyone that says they haven't is lying 😂😂😂 I enjoyed the Auto Shop Teacher "I told you, I told you!" and the ribbing they gave you over it...quality family entertainment right there! It's so great to see you all working on this tri five "keeper" and I will continue to enjoy seeing this one in the future. Keep up the great work guys!
I have run a repair shop for quite some time. Been in business 100 years. Dorman stuff was junk in the 80s.No better now. Do not use. This car is super cool. Can’t wait to see the transmission in action!
When Dani was filming the bleeding of the master cyl., no bubbles were coming up from the back port, then, when you were having trouble bleeding, I was thinking that master might be the culprit. Can't wait for the road test,,/ test beat. Should be an awesome driver for you! Keep up the great work, see you tomorrow!
With all these new parts going in I'm glad we get the clutter and chaos we're used to so we know we're in the right place! lol You deserve it, working hard, this car is gonna be bad ass!
Hey Mur, good to see you keeping tabs on the talent. Some words of wisdom if he gets a little to big for the britches ...a man can grow a head of hair, but it takes a hellova man to wear it off ;) You three rock !
I feel ya on the parts thing... Sucks to spend the money and more importantly, the time doing a job, only to take it apart and put it back the way it was... Way to keep after it and get it done!!
This is one thing we don't realize, just watching a video. 5 hours on the brakes! Ouch! I don't mind the rant, I like to see Dan being real, whether upset or enthusiastic. That is what is special about DDSS. Love you all. God bless. 🇨🇦
Usually most mechanical parking brakes llike that need the parking brake applied several times to put the piston into its "out position". Then you get your pedal hight and good brake pedal feelin after bleeding😊 Cheers from Junk's Automotive
The parking brake is used to adjust piston. Used to see lots of issues with 90's GM cars and frozen rear brake calipers because no one used the parking brakes. Also need to screw the pistons back in when changing pads.
Aftermarket parts are getting to be more often than not junk! Had to be frustrating, but you have to feel great having figured it out. Murr to the rescue. You would have figured out eventually. Murr is such a wealth of knowledge and so nice. You are lucky to have him and Danni in your corner.
I use a pneumatic power brake bleeder I bought several years ago. Its similar in operation I used in the army and at several auto repair shops I worked at. Beats having to use my old MAC Tools hand operated vacuum pump and drain cup, something I have done too many times.
My past experience anytime in the middle of bleeding brakes, if the master runs out of fluid it would suck air in and it would work exactly like you were having happen and I would have to re bleed the master cylinder then care on bleeding the rear brakes. The instructions even tell you if you run the master empty in the middle off bleeding brakes you have to bleed the master cylinder again. Hope this helps in the future. Anyways can’t wait to see the 55 out on the road. It’s going to be great.
I've changed a bunch of those rear brakes and never even knew what that tool kit looks like.. i always just use channel locks to screw the piston back in
Sometimes new proportioning valves have a reset button that needs to be pushed on it. It shuts off the fluid loss for a leak. This is usually the rear circuit. Not sure if yours has the button on it but something to look for.
It’s called a high-lead caliper I was a tech when they were around and very few techs had a clue what to do when they couldn’t get a pedal after a repair
Good seeing Murr Thank god he showed up to tell you what to DO Dan Dani good camera work Let’s see the road test Het Dan GO FAST CARS NEED GO FAST BRAKES
Dan, the caliper needs to be offset on the pins, as the brake pads wear the calipers will move inboard as the outer pad thins with the inboard pad getting thinner too while the piston moves everything. If you centered the pins with new pads you will be up against the brackets as it wears
Time for a brake Dan? Lots of trouble with that stuff but, you figured it out. Great work. Now some wiring. Too bad you need parts from the Nomad. Cheers!! 😊
Hey Dan and Danielle, Dan, I have to say, you're one of, if not, the hardest working RU-vidr on RU-vid. You work your regular job all week and after work you're making videos. I don't know how much sleep you're getting, but you have to take a day here and there to rest. I know you can't wait to take this car for a ride and I can't blame you. Hell, now I can't wait to see the first road test. Maybe after the first road test, you can take a day of just cruising around with it for your video. Anyway, love your channel, all your car builds, your helper Danielle and all the videos. Take care and be safe.
i use a motive power bleeder and i make my own adapters. ferncos plumbing parts are perfect, or i use a cap I modified. nissan,honda,mercedes, toyota,lexus I do my neighbors cars too. I love a power bleeder.. takes longer to tke wheels off then to bleed..
You know. Sometimes I feel like a complete idiot.... Then I watch your videos, and I think, nope, par for the course. Takes Dan two days to bleed brakes, what I am doing is not so bad.
For future reference those early style GM rear disc had to be bleed with zero space. Next time operate the E brake until it is touching the pad then bleed the brakes. I remember when I was a young mechanic I went through this same issue.
I had a 1989 IROZ Z with disc / disc brakes. No rear brakes no matter what I did. Sold the car. My buddy told me afterwards you need to "ratchet the e brake several times" to load up the piston. Self adjusting deal.
The signature door squeak is awesome . If doesn't squeak it ain't a tri-5 . Throw the Seville calipers in the garbage . Big drum brakes are the only way to go .
Is it possible those new master cylinders don’t take to bench bleeding, ? Maybe the piston goes past holes and lets fluid in behind causing it to leak .
Yep those brake calipers need to be ratcheted up manually with the ebrake pedal, as they are being bled to create no space between the pads n rotors. the master does not have enought umph. To move all pistons out in one pump. Once they are ratchet up then bled you'll get pedal pressure.
I’ve never had good luck with dorman parts. I’ve tried using them on the old jeeps I work on and they never work, there is always sumthing wrong, sumthing not long enough, sumthing too short, wrong threads…. I’ve found places straight from china that are more reliable than Dorman
When i had a air block in rear breaks i would open the bleeder and smash the brake pedal hard close the bleeder and do this till i had good fluid moving then do regular bleeding