554. How to DAMAGE epoxy resin worktops 

James when you sand resins and plastics to get a shine you have to start with a grit about 800-1200 then maybe a 2400 and finish up with cut and polish and 4000 abrasive the same way that you restore automotive headlight lenses from weather turning them frosted.

G'day James, Really enjoying your vlogs. I was a spray painter in the smash repair industry and I can give you my take on getting a perfect mirror finish. Once the resin has cured you should wet sand with approximately 1200 grade wet & dry using a sanding bock. The block ensures a completely level surface. To get the mirror finish it's best to machine polish with a mild compound. Hope this helps. Obviously check youtube on cut and polished paint. All the best mate.🦘🦘🦘

To get a smooth gloss without any dust or bubbles you will probably need to sand to 3000 grit minimum and then use the polishing compound on a foam pad on an a random orbital sander or a dual action sander. I have just done this on my kit car but went to 5000grit to give the compound less work to do. You will get a very smooth and shiny surface.

I wouldn't treat any worktop to that sort of abuse, James. There are things called trivets and chopping boards. Shame about the test piece, I rather liked it too.

You can get buffer attachments that attach to your drill, with different pads for different polishing needs - they're not very expensive and do a great job of polishing, much, much better than by hand.

I liked the sample but at least now you know what it can withstand. Rob videoing it was great.

Ever wondered what bird shit on a black worktop would look like. Wonder no more….

2000 Grit? I've seen 8000 and 10,000! - but then it's usually polished to a glass finish afterwards - often on plastic or show cars. When using that fine of grit - it's a LOT of sanding - Usually wet sanding with a block, or orbital sander. I do agree that the gloss looks best - and the detail is beautiful! Any matte finish usually hides the fine detail. You gotta do what YOU like, bro! Can't wait to see what you do with the REAL Countertops! You could even get the kids to help if they're around! I bet they'd LOVE that!

That whole exercise in 552,553 and this episode was very educational indeed. Thank you so much. Wishing you all the very best with the final product. Cheers

Use a glass worktop protector. I always advised my customers when i sold them gloss worktops ...Love the cosmic effect one ....

We used a fake granite kit on our last house. I don't know if it used resin, but it cautioned against hot things laid on it. Since we were selling the house, we basically kept it covered with towels. I wonder what became of it after it sold. I am guessing it was quickly replaced with the real thing. I love these creative results though.

I want to resin everything now. That raffle sounds tempting. What a nice break, Sir James.

Can't wait to see the final results. I know the finishers at work use the buffing compounds to end things up. On the boats😊

I have to say you are very creative and possibly insane 😂 very good work tho

Just remembered, we had our original kitchen worktops overlayed with stonecover quartz. It’s about 10 mm thick and it looks brilliant. Maybe you should check this out ? The company comes in and measures up then comes back to fit it. It may be cheaper in the long run.

You need a power buffer to buffer out the scratches, you can’t do it by hand. U need something 4000- 6000 rpm’s with a buffer pad. The pads are cutting pads up to polishing pads

Probably a very expensive option but having made a beautiful countertop that is visually pleasing. Cover completely with a glass top. Or there are plain rectangular glass cutting boards. You could have one by the hob for putting hot pans on etc without obscuring the pattern.

Greetings, love your courage in this undertaking. Well done you. 😊

With regard to the problem you mentioned with grease, how about wiping it down with the same stuff you use when painting cars? Glad you're coming away from trying to imitate granite as some of the pieces you've done are very striking designs. You're actually getting into a whole new artform.

I do like the effects tho I’d frame them lol. Good luck with the raffle James hope it goes well. Best wishes

Not a mug 😂 I feel like this is a cliff hanger, will he continue with the resin counter tops or won’t he !!!!

Don't forget even granite gets marked James, that's why you use a multitude of chopping boards and pan holders for various jobs. Those test pieces would make good chopping boards.

I'm starting to think a real granite worktop might be cheaper and more straightforward

create your design and sand from 120 down to 400 grit, then pour a finish coat of clear resin once fully cured wet sand all the way down to 5000 grit followed by buffing compounds and finally apply a automotive ceramic coating. The results will amaze you

I have factory made worktops that I wouldn't be putting boiling hot pans on to be fair lol I own a couple of trivets.

Oh James looks lovely but the resin is totally unpractical for a boat kitchen sorry but either granite or laminate (depending on budget) is the way to go but big high five for all you work to try and achieve something different ❤

Oh ffs Just put some wood effect covering on the wood…….stick it on and forget about it…..👍

Can I ask... what is the condition of the rest of the build? The days you are spending on countertops... I thought you wanted to live on this boat fairly soon.

You can move the resin around with blowing thru a straw …….more subtle than a hair dryer.

James; the artist!

I demand a "Re-count" ! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

They look like works of art James. Not sure if they’ll work as work tops though.

If you look at Leggari products or Blacktail studio on the RU-vid channel it will show you how to do resin worktops and how to polish and maintain them you are making hard work for yourself it is easier than you think if you look at there process of resin pouring

My biggest question is, how food safe is it? Cause no one needs a surface that slowly seeps into fruits or veggies left in the counter, or if one cuts onion on it. That food btw isnt safe to eat.. You will have to re-apply compound on it to ensure it remains in nice nick. Same if one forgets to use a cutting board (cue in kids) and slices an apple for example. It damages the surfaces easily. Will this surface harden more over the next week or two? Yes & of course it will. Unless one uses food safe/grade resin.. this whole exercise is best to not be done for your kitchen. This is why one often sees em being used for desks or living room tables (or side tables) etc. because one can use none food grade resin for it. In order to be able to not affect the pattern one lays down, usually a clear layer is supposed to be applied ontop of the one where the pattern is embedded. This top layer is the one that one wetsands (and I mean it has to be wet, do not be careful with the water, dip the sanding block into the bucket of water frequently as you polish with higher and higher grit to polish it to the sheen you want. The water and wet sanding paper (it has to be actual high grit wet sanding paper) is what will keep your surfaces from deep scratches as long as you use a block with said paper. Usually it is a soft block for this type if work. This extra layer resin is what keeps the actual pattern safe. Not sure why this company isnt doing it that way. Its no different when you paint something onto a car etc. Once one is done airbrushing, one cleans it with a cleaner that takes any oil, fingerprints, dust etc away & one applies a ton of clear coats. Then those clear coats are what get polished. Same here. Now, no matter if food grade or not, if you do cut items on your type of worktop, the food will then have resin in it, and your surface will have bacteria growing in the damaged area of your worktop. That again has to first get cleaned with said above cleaner & then repoured and polished again. No diff with any surface like that that got scratched. This is a ton of work and requires constant maintenance. Even with real Granite its not recommended to place hot items on it. Actually no kitchen surface is meant to withstand this. (Cue items that cook over, which are boiling hot and run onto your counter top) My parents have Canadian granite as a kitchen countertop. We always use flat wooden blocks for hot items, and cutting boards to cut. After 35+ yrs they still look brand new. The only reason why one uses food grade resin, is to ensure your food remains safe to eat if it does come into short contact by chance with the surface. I really dont think you will have much long lived joy with this. If you were to do your kitchen /living room/table or a desk like that. I'd say, more power to you, just use food grade on any surfaces that come in contact with food. There are many places that sell granite (stone etc) countertops which were cut wrong or had orders cancelled who sell them at a reduced price (if money is an issue). Even the thinner ones of them will give you much more joy for yrs to come, plus higher resale value for your boat, than doing this nightmare. I understand it looks cool, and seems fun and like a cheap alternative. But tbh you'll be throwing good money after bad in a never ending cycle having to redo these surfaces regularly, for as long as you either own the boat or until you are so sick of having to redo them, you throw them out. I really don't know why no one has said any of the above I've written.. In the end, you have to do what you think is best. It is your boat, and your kitchen & health.

Liked the glittery one, but some of the others looked a bit like you’d had visitation from a very poorly bird…

The designs remind me of gaseous nebulas, very cool. The fragility that you've shown with the cutting and drop tests would be a deal breaker for me, however. I'd be more inclined to tile the countertops.

Most worktops will see potential damage from very hot items and cutting, use a stand and a cutting board and protect the surface 👍

Does that epoxy kit you got not have a topcoat to seal and protect the epoxy?? I’m in the US but looked into the brand you have. The US brand I am also looking at is heat resistant up to 450°F and has a top coat you put on like 20 hours after you pour the epoxy. May be an option… Love the samples you made! It makes me super excited to try this too!!!

Would putting a clear coat of resin on top of it help protect it, like have your base coat, your design coat and then top finishing sacrificial coat that will get screached up but will be easy to repair?

If you add more hardener would it make it tougher ?

good work keep up the good vids

You need a machine polisher to cut sanding marks out of epoxy - probably an orbital rather than a DA.

If all else fails, find a clock that can be mounted into a hole, drill the hole where the nicks and scratches are... there you are, Art with a Purpose. ;-) [sq] is it "Serian"?

Some Look excellent Others remind me of pigeons

Good test

after following projeft 58 i started from epp 1, slo patrol and there were leaking backsound noises(pink floyd wish you are here etc) now a days i play gubbel at this moment you and qaudrofinia the who thanks

If I was to win a ‘weekend’ on Sloe Patrol, could that be taken Monday to Wednesday as I work what’s normally referred to as weekend.

The resin is so deep it will take a couple of months to harden properly ok have fun

i must have missed something. What is with the "not a mug" statements?

Meh I just like the glitter ! Lol

Resin takes a week or so to fully cure

You really need G3 first bud then G10

Give up on it James, ok you have dropped things on it and deliberately scratched it deliberately but I think in 1 week from normal use it’ll look a total mess. Remember your debacle over the roof lining? Even using protection it’ll still mark, I think you’ll regret it.

Glitter one

💜💙💚

Let you make them?

its epoxy the sun will even melt it

so after you tortured youre worktops i am gonna back to ep 196 (love rain on me)

👍👌❤️🇨🇦