I like this video a lot Andrew. The antenna looks good but more importantly works great. I've always been curious about combining multiple driven elements in this style and it's good to know you can pass signal through wires in such a fashion and still obtain good SWR.
Instead of a dish you could try a 10dB Horn antenna. I used to run a 8mW 10GHz TV link using horns with a Ham friend who is about 2 miles away from me. It worked great . So maybe a dish is usable but maybe Horn antennas are worth an experiment. 👍
Great video !! I have a question . I made some coil loaded dipole antennas for my project . And i wanted to protect the driven element. And i used small pvc pipe . When i put the antenna element inside the PVC tube the antenna tuning changes completely. 🙁 How do you protect your antennas ? Which material do you use ??
Previous you posted a PCB antenna I would love to see you improve the design and I would love if you could provide the dimensions so that we could build it ourselves
Something you might could help me with. People that use cellular game cameras are always trying to find cell towers with good signal strength. Is there anyway I could use my iPhone just as a display device to visualize signal strength of a Yagi antenna? Carrying around a laptop in the boonies is not practical. I’m thinking of some device that sets between the antenna and the iPhone plus an App on the iPhone. Using a lightning cable of course for the iPhone connection. You ever seen or heard of something like this?
Any possibility of making this from stacked 75mm x 100mm PCB board with the elements etched on each layer. Since the PCB carrier has a different dielectric constant than air, how would the element spacing change? TIA…
Love your matching network, it matches really well too! I normally use 3 pairs of 70.7ohm (100ohm to 50ohm) transformers in a corporate matching network (of 3 T-joints) for a quadruple array. Would you be making a sequential-delay network version to turn this baby into a nice axial-ratio RHCP/ LHCP Antenna for FPV (with 4 shrunken elements to increase center frequency to 5.8g)?
@Terence just to let you know, I got to this video from your Liked videos Playlist. Pls let me know if this antenna is better than your crosshair quadruple array.
As demonstrated by Andrew, it has a really good VSWR. It’s difficult to achieve such a low VSWR on 5ghz, or 5.8ghz in the case of my crosshair array. My quadruple crosshair can pick up color-video behind a solid concrete wall at 1.2km away from a 200mw transmission source. It’s hard to compare which antenna is better without seeing the radiation plot pattern. Also, if you are planning to use this antenna for FPV, even if it’s built to 5.8ghz dimensions, you gotta make sure the video transmitter’s antenna is linear-polarized such as the little dipoles on the mini-whoop drones. Most performance drones have circular polarized antenna so you lose 3db of signal if you use this linear polarized antenna array on your FPV goggle.
I wonder how you manage to get 50 ohms at the feed point when combining all 4 patches in parallel like that? Would each patch impedance have to be 200 ohms in this case?
You said you wanted to shave OFF some metal from the driven element to drop the frequency - I am not sure I understand why you would want remove some of the element because that would decrease the wavelength and therefore increase the frequency? Am I missing something? Would like to understand. Thanks.
Hello ! I was looking to have an HDMI transmitter to pass a video console signal through a 5ghz or 2.4ghz signal and, even tho' its working, the signal has a sligh latency. The signal doesn't seem that strong with the antenna but I don't know much about it. I was thinking that i could probably boost the signal with better antennas for the TX and RX and found out about your wonderful channel. This type of DIY are perfectly adapted to my abilities but I would like to know if you or someone think that this solution will help me in my case ! Hope to read from some of you and know more, thanks ! (happy new year jic)
I have tryed to build this antenna but some size are missing like the distance between coupling wires and the exact distance of them from reflector. Someone can help me. Tanks in advance
To me, it looks like the "top two" elements are being fed 180 deg from the "bottom two" elements. Is this correct? If so, wouldn't that make a null straight ahead?
That would be my prediction too. Also 1.5mm brass rod does not have a characteristic impedance of 50ohms(the spacing to the GP is required to determine this). In fact for this 4 way split the impedance would quadruple anyway. So the input impedance would be 200 ohms(4x 50). There will also be mutual coupling between the upper and lower feed lines as the are very close compared to the GP spacing. In the end there is a lot going on here that is hard to predict without simulation,
@@scienteer3562 I guess Andrew will need to do an antenna pattern test, to see what exactly is going on. I wasn't going to bring up the impedance, because I don't have a good feeling for what's what at those frequencies... The spacing of the brass rod could be doing some classic impedance matching transmission line voodoo, including the run from the antenna feed down to the start of the transmission line segments. I'd also be more happy with a SMA connector on the antenna itself, than the short stubby coax with one... but that's just me.
thanks andrew, can u send me the space between two brass bar explain it please, thanks Andrew ;) explain construction the two brass bar dimension, thanks Andrew
@@andrewmcneil I have watched *ALOT* of ur videos, and to date.. what would be the *BEST* antenna design to mount on the end of a old satellite dish? to get the furthest length & best range, signal... ?? with link please.. (2.4Ghz only)
