5th Gen 4Runner: Oversized Tire Fitment Kit 

I wanted to share two additional items I did on my 2014 4 runner after installing C4's kit. Love what C4 did with the kit and the video was super helpful to the install. I’ve done quite a bit to keep mud, debris, water, gravel out of my front and rear bumpers that tend to accumulate material that then makes it a pain to clean. It was in the spirit of that that I made the following additions to the C4 kit. So, the first enhancement to their kit was I added HVAC black insulation pipe material to the gap that is between the stock vendor liner that you trim and the metal fender. 1. As anyone knows there is a gap of about 1 to a 1 1/2” in depth between the metal and plastic fender liner. 2. I took a 4” round black insulation pipe and cut it to size to fit between the clips on the fender liner. I cut the pipe ~ in half for where the fender liner clip is as the depth isn’t as deep where the clip is. 3. I then placed insulation around the entire wheel well area between the metal and plastic. 4. Now that entire wheel well area between the metal fender and the plastic trim piece is blocked off from any debris getting into it. 5. This material is water pervious, sound deadening, expands to fit that gap and holds in place with no other support and is super easy to work with. You can power wash the inner well and it’s no worse the wear. And aesthetically it’s about as stock of a look as you’ll get. 6. The one thing that is important in this process is to not put too much HVAC material in the gap as it will tend to push out the fender liner and loosen the double-sided tape that holds the plastic fender liner at the top. Guess how I know? The second thing I did was to use metal wood framing braces to attach the bottom rear portion of the fender liner to the aluminum clip you provide that’s adjacent to where you do the body mount chop. I wanted to have a much stiffer fender liner attachment at the bottom since you removed all that material where it was attached to the bottom of your vehicle. It just wasn't stiff enough for my liking. 1. I had to slightly fab a metal wood framing brace by cutting some excess material from it and slightly bend one of the wood framing braces so that it would fit behind C4's aluminum brace that is near the body mount at the back of the wheel well. These braces were ideal and I just had some in my shop that were almost perfect to do what I was trying to do, secure the bottom portion of the fender liner since it doesn’t have quite the stability as it did at the bottom of it before the cutting. 2. What I like about this design is I just slightly had to bend forward C4's aluminum bracket to allow a gap for the wood framing brace to slide behind their bracket. 3. I then hammered C4's bracket back to its original position to help hold my wood framing brace in place temporarily while I then attached the bottom of the plastic fender liner to the other end of the metal wood framing brace. 4. The other end of the wood framing brace already has holes in it. I then put two nuts and bolts per side under the bottom of the plastic fender liner that was trimmed as a part of the OTF kit. 5. This metal wood framing bracket now holds that bottom fender liner tightly in place to not allow for any movement. The first stock fender liner clip is a few inches above that area so the plastic fender liner isn’t really secure once you trim the entire fender flair. And because I was adding the HVAC black insulation and that is the area that has the widest opening/depth, I wanted to have the very bottom of the fender liner secured in some way to help hold the HVAC insulation in place. 6. Note: you have to use a desktop grinder, grinding wheel, Dremel to make sure the metal wood framing bracket matches the outside contour of the plastic fender liner. 7. The final step I took is I JB Welded the wood framing brace to the C4 aluminum bracket. This way it is secure to your bracket that has already been screwed in with four screws to the body mount area. I then sprayed undercoating spray in this area that I had fabed to match the rest of the undercoating in the wheel well area. 8. Alternatively, I could have added a couple of screws to the metal wood framing bracket at the end nearest the engine bay where I slid it through the C4 bracket. The reason I didn’t do it this way is I wanted to fill in the gaps between the sledge hammering I did to the body mount area, your bracket and my new metal wood framing bracket. Now it looks like it’s a stock wheel well again, with no areas for debris to get into. Miscellaneous items: 1. I painted that entire area black so it matches the lower side of the truck and the inside of my wheel well. I’m really pleased with how well the entire kit C4 created turned out and my couple of enhancements. 2. To better match my front bumper cut out and to eliminate the look of the slightly downward rake from front to rear, I cut out a bit more material on the bumper side of the fender liner so my opening there is close to the same amount of the opening on the cab side of the truck. 3. The other final thing I did was add truck door trim to the cut-out plastic fender liner and metal quarter panel. I did the same thing for my Backwoods Hybrid steel/aluminum bumpers front and rear. When I cut my rear plastic of the truck and my front bumper area, I used truck door trim to cover the cuts you make to allow for the fitment of the front and rear bumpers. The other thing this helps to do is to secure the in place the HVAC black insulation since I added the trim to both the plastic fender liner and metal quarter panel after installing the black HVAC insultation. I also did this for the plastic fender liner for keeping my cut areas look consistent and to the metal area I cut for safety when removing the tires, working on the suspension, etc. That is some sharp stuff after cutting it with the cut off wheel!!!! If anyone wants to see photos of the above work just email me and glad to share. kentpriceiii@gmail.com

This is great, will C4 come up with a solution for the rear tire well having removed the rear mud flap to fit the C4 Rear bumper ? To fit the C4 Rear Bumper, we had to remove the rear mud flap and now we can not use the rear mud flap and the dirt just collects their. Thank you kindly for this hands on video.

Just a fun fact about the pinch weld. After you hammer it down, 100% CLEAN IT AND RESEAL IT. I didn't do that and we had rain for 3-4 days straight here in the Northeast and I didn't notice that the weld opened a hair and, since I wasn't driving the 4Runner, the entire driver side was filled with water and I had to spend two days with the seat out drying and Bisseling the water out.

I cant wait for mine to get here.

Will these still fit if we hammered our pinch welds to the outside of the vehicle already, instead of inward?

Will these also work with the ADV fiberglass fender flares? I will be just pulling my factory fenders and replacing them with the ADV flares and these would be a perfect addition! 🤘🏼😎🤘🏼

Would these clear a ARB snorkel?

I want one for 4th gen but no cutting fender flare