6 Methods for Rose Propagation 

My pleasure - thanks for the encouragement!

Thanks so much!

Thanks - nothing new here! The same tried and tested methods that our parents and grandparents used in their own time.

Thanks Amanda - that's great to hear. Now I wonder if we can get you to "rescue" some from the local garden center!

My pleasure Max

Best of luck with your cuttings!

My pleasure - best wishes turning your passion into a side-hustle!

My pleasure. Thanks Bill

Best of luck and let me know how it goes for you.

You're very welcome

Happy to hear it - and excited for your coming season!

Thanks for letting me know Mic, and happy to hear that things went so smoothly. I'll cross my fingers for you that everything comes through the winter okay.

A Norwegian rose grower told me he found the best protection for roses in winter was branches of conifer thickly placed around the plant, pyramid style. Good luck with yours, roses are such wonderful plants.

My pleasure

Very much my pleasure. Thanks for watching Ilias

My pleasure. Thanks for watching

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I could eat contet like that and survive. Que rico

I'll keep my fingers crossed for you Dennis. I haven't really tried rhodos, but I've has an easy time with hydrangeas.

Thanks Janet - and best of luck with your propagation!

If I take my cuttings in summer, I overwinter the rooted cuttings in a small pot - upgrade the pot 1 time in the early spring and then plant out when they're rooted to the sides and bottom of the pot.

Here you go: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4FicmVqT_a4.html

Way to go! Yes, if I'm managing my newly rooted roses in containers, I usually take off any unruly growth before winter.

Thanks David. It's a matter of timing for me. I prefer semi-hardwood cuttings from fresh new growth - it's just where I've had the most success in cuttings. At the time of early spring pruning, the stems you're taking off are mainly last year's growth (hardwood) or possible extremely fresh shoots (softwood tips). As to the time of deadheading, that's more promising in my opinion, because the firmness of stem just behind the spent flower is pretty close to my perfect stage for propagation. So yes, I'm pretty much going out to the stock field and looking for roses that are just finishing a flush of blooms, and then combine a deadheading with a slightly lower reshaping to give me loads of stems for propagation.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm l

I'd encourage you to give it a try even this late in the season. You have a mild climate and that works in your favor. I'm still taking a few cuttings now - I'll be starting them under lights and on a heat mat to help it along, but even with a simple humidity dome you stand a chance of rooting them before it gets too cold a dreary.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason, hope to have tomorrow afternoon off and it could be 30c so I’ll give it a try. Might just make it. Great to get such a quick answer. Best Wishes.🏖🥀

I really appreciate it Šárka

The timing may be tricky, but yes, a healthy vigorously growing mother plant will yield better cuttings and a higher success rate.

Thanks Niels, and congratulations on your success! I overwinter in an unheated greenhouse - if you had a patio or garage (even cool) to shelter the rooted cuttings from the worst of the cold, that would work. If it has to be outside, just pick the most sheltered location you can manage and try to protect the young roots from the worst of the cold (with soil or mulch around the pots, or inside a clear storage bin with some ventilation, but to cut down on the wind)

Thanks. I share a link to the chart itself in the description of the video

I hope it cools off for you soon Ignacia - time to enjoy the autumn!

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Indeed autumn is the season I love best although here in Mallorca it’s nothing comparable to northern Spain. Needless to mention USA or Canada. I used to enjoy the crisp early sunsets by the Hudson River and the fallen leaves … of course roses in a healthy garden is almost a favorite dream. Keep well and enjoy your creative work.

Maybe try some with a lower concentration of rooting hormone (or none at all). Sometimes a higher rate will stall cuttings on the callus step.

Hi Gilberto. I've tried something similar, and on an easy-to-root variety (R. multiflora f. inermis) I had some success.

Nicely done. I usually prune and strip leaves after they're dormant to clean them up for winter

Take it slow. The expression of buds doesn't mean that there are sufficient roots in place, and the hardwood method is notoriously slow for root development. If you can manage it, I'd leave them in the same spot for the majority of the first season until they have beefy roots. After that it's a judgement call based on size, but for me it's usually a full year + before I transplant into the garden

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much for your reply! I can leave it in this spot for another season for sure. Again, I can't thank you enough for your help! 🙂

Thanks Linda. Those are not dumb questions at all, but actually at the heart of refining your cutting technique for your own growing conditions. The leaves still contribute (a little) energy, and send hormones down the stem to encourage rooting. So l keep them on, but here's the balance: there's no longer a source for moisture, so unless you keep fairly high humidity, you'll see rapid wilt, scorch and leaf drop. But then high moisture/humidity increases the risk of rot. I've been more successful trying to keep humidity down a bit lower, but to make that work, I can't have excess leaf surface. I also like to pack my cuttings a bit tight (see 13:11 in this video), and if I'd left all of the leaves intact, they'd be pressed up against their neighbors. I should stress that different approaches can work just fine. I've seen the "pop bottle" method, where more leaves were left in place (on larger cuttings) and it worked well. I've heard from some people who preemptively strip all leaves from semi-hardwood cuttings (because they figure most of them will drop off during propagation anyhow). As for softwood tips, I've played around with it and found that the very tenderest of tips can be the very first tissue to wilt and blacken off, so I usually don't bother leaving it on. YMMV

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you. So in a nutshell, it prevents the most common problems and allows the energy to focus on making new roots. Thanks for helping me understand.

I'd give it some time and good conditions to get healthy growth before I'd even attempt propagation - it's a much easier process with healthy stems to work with. There's no secret: a good position (sun, soil), consistent watering, moderate N fertilizer to encourage new growth, and then just time.

It's definitely possible, and of course they have just he qualities of the topstock (scion) variety.

I have them listed on my propagation shopping list on Amazon: www.amazon.com/shop/fraservalleyrosefarm/list/2YK06EGYXJ0ML?ref=cm_sw_em_r_inf_list_own_fraservalleyrosefarm_dp_5fQdaU4ljZGDo

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you :)

You can - and rooting hormone is another option.

Hi Emily. Rugosas have distinctive ridges on their foliage - and a quick google image search (for "rosa rugosa foliage") will show you what to look for. Rosa gallica foliage is not nearly so "rugged" and also not so glossy - if equating to paint, you'd say the rugosas might be semi-gloss while gallicas are more like matte. Rugosas are repeat bloomers, and have great big hips with a distinctive shape (again, google image search). Best luck IDing your grandparents' roses.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you! I'll do some comparing once spring gets here & my Frazier Rose (my Grandpa's surname 😉) leafs out again. 🌿👍

Hi Raymund. Yes, all other things equal, the more healthy leaves you have on the plant, the more energy is available for growth and flowering. New leaves will emerge when buds shoot into new stems. It's a part of the stem growth process, so no, it won't regrow on an old stem until/unless the dormant buds begin to shoot.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm thank you Jason! I'm still awake it's 11:49 pm here in Manila. Thank you for your comment. Have a nice day!

I don't grow Harrison's Yellow, but it's still widely available. It spreads by own-root suckers, so it's pretty easy to detach a rooted sucker and move it to a new spot.

That's a fairly good spot. I'd move them in after a bit of cold, so they're a little more on the dormant side

www.amazon.com/shop/fraservalleyrosefarm

I'm not sure those older thicker stems are the best for propagation, but if the shrub is healthy and vigorous a medium low prune will result in more shoots from the nearer to the base.

Yes, I do - when they're in active growth I take semi-hardwood cuttings and end up with own-root roses.

Hi Gloria. That can be a tough call, and it depends on how well rooted the plants are. If they're well-rooted to the sides and bottom of a 4 or 6" pot, you could consider overwintering them with one or more of the measures I describe in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0nsY9MUmVIo.html If they're less well rooted, it might make more sense to keep them growing and active indoor with lights.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you Jason it seems like the indoor option is the best one. I'm so excited to have succeed especially because they are Heirloom roses. I really appreciate your videos and all that good advice.

Yes, I think you're talking about the graft union, which is the result of grafting the desired topstock (scion) to an existing rootstock. It's more often used in large-scale propagation, but I've done a couple and home gardeners certainly can succeed with the method too.

Watering frequency isn't something that can be decided from afar. You'll want to moisten the soil from time to time, and a dilute liquid feed is appropriate if you've already seen roots.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much! I have seen callus around the bottom and only 2 small (about 1 and half inches long) white roots. Should I start diluted liquid feed at this point or wait another 1 or 2 weeks before starting liquid feed?

Here I used StimRoot #2, but Hormex #3 is more widely available in the US.

A good look at the crown can (sometimes) help. Grafted roses often have a telltale graft union at the base, a swollen area where the actual graft took place. This is far more obvious in younger plants, and can be more difficult when they've been in the ground for a few years. Many gardeners bury the graft union up to 6 or 8 inches below ground in cooler climates, so what you see emerging from the ground might not look any different. If you see suckering, and you're not sure if it's from the scion or the rootstock, careful observation of the stems & leaves (and of course, eventually blooms) can reveal the difference.

It depends on how far along they are, and what sort of protection you can offer. I usually keep my semi-hardwood cuttings to overwinter in a 9cm/4in pot but I put them onto a bench with backup heat. I've heard from others who move them into a cool-temperature space like a garage to overwinter.

In the lower mainland, I'm still playing with a few semi-hardwood cuttings but I'm doing so indoors, where I can add light and temperature to speed things along. Pretty soon I'll be moving over to hardwood cuttings.

Hi Robert - sorry, I'm not too plugged in to the local suppliers in the US. I know it's mass produced (because I bought it at Home Depot) but who would stock it on any given year is a different matter.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm That's okay. I think I bought several at Home Depot, too, in California. It's funny how some things get pushed somewhere for a time, and that's it!

On the bright side: *very* easy to root BP from cuttings!

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I didn't know that. I won't give up on my search (that rose has bitter-sweet memories for me, of my first house, and all that I put into it). Thank you for all you do.

Hi Shaine. I get away with very little spraying - and I say "get away with" because I know my local climate really doesn't offer the same challenges as others. A bit of blackspot early and late (when it's moist), and a fair bit of powdery mildew and spider mite damage when it's warm. I do defoliate and prune in response, but don't apply anything other than sulfur (infrequently, because I don't have much patience for spraying). If I were facing chilli thrips or JB, I bet my attitude would change in a hurry.

@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I live in a HOA controlled neighborhood. I'm constantly battling powder mildew and black spot from sprinkler over watering foliage. Then there's the aphids. My wife got me aunt fannies organic spray for aphids and spider mites. Works well but I don't have a solution to mildew and black spot because I have nowhere else to put them. Technically my hoa controls the front yard so I can't make any big changes.

Hi Sarmishtha. If you're rooting roses in cooler temperatures like this, it's normally the hardwood cutting method I showed. They can take 4 to 6 months to root. I also have done some semi-hardwood cuttings in September and October, but I do those indoors under artificial light. They're taking around a month for initial rooting.

Thank you so much! This was very helpful.