Missed one important "mistake" -- use the CORRECT Teflon Tape for the purpose. The white is for basic water line work. I also use it on bolts (see below). They make "Yellow" tape for fuel (Gas, Oil, et cetera); they make "Green" for Oxygen Lines.
I am a Hong Kong resident. Here is the 1st city to use salty water(sea water) for toilet flushing. Some of the tube and device are made of plastic for the anti- rusty reason. For here local plumber, they recommend 30 warp, and rolling it thin at the front(loosening direction) while thicker at the screwing end(tightest end) . For me, I will roll like that but only5-7 warps. I understand that they do not want to re- do, so 30 warps as their practice. (partly due to the thickness of tape). As I said, some tubes and devices are in plastic(nPVC) , be watch-out if warping too much for cracking the screwing. Also, if with a rubber pad, we can consider it as water tighted enough, try without tape. If dropping, then fill the tape a little bit 6 rolling warps around.
@@Nozinbonsai I am not sure the bowl meaning. The toilet set area containing those dirt? Or the flushing water container? I guess should be the 1st one. Basically, the salt flushing water is not so clean due to sometimes repairing of the supply pipe(which is underground and have to dig). So the container would with earth precipitated. But the bowl, (if I guess right) inner of the toilet is clean after flushing. When I look into some info that, there is not many places using sea water for flushing. Hong Kong flushing water actually was flitered and de-salt to a certain level. Still, we have to avoid metal valve for flusing. So, have to be plastic valve/ tap supplying flushing water... and pvc pipe applied.
Nils, you hit on one of the most important points when using Teflon tape. When you have a rubber seal, don't use the tape. I made that mistake so many times years ago when I started out as a contractor. You run the risk of not getting the fitting tight enough to seal against the rubber seal. Great video, as always, and I can't wait for your future videos.
Simple rule: straight threads - no tape, tapered threads - use tape ( or dope). For high pressure helium fittings epoxy glue is applied to the threads as helium gas under pressure (~300 psi) will just about leak through anything except compression fittings or welded joints. To remove the fitting just heat the epoxy with a propane torch and it will allow you to undo the joint.
All of this was good advice but one thing was wrong.. When wrapping the tape onto the pipe, the tape should start from BACK to FRONT of the threads in a clockwise motion., stopping just short of the end of the pipe.. This lets the tape overlap itself allowing the tape to flatten and seal itself as you tighten the joint... If you start at the front going back to the pipe, the overlaps can get caught on the fitting and get pushed off the remaining layers, possibly creating a leak situation..
U r so articulate, such great speaking skill with amazing voice. Funny thing is, I find listening to u while watching is somehow very therapeutic, I can listen to u whole day every day 😂
At last! Someone who uses Teflon tape and knows what he's doing. I just retired after 35 years as a plumbing / HVAC tech. So many of these You tubers don't know what they are doing. Lest you think I leave without a criticism, he did not mention that you should always use paste dope on gas lines, never Teflon. It may be different in your jurisdiction, but the gas company does not allow tape dope here in Pennsylvania. He did show several instances where you ought not dope at all. That upped his cred with me. I will say, a light coat of paste on some troublesome compression fittings has gotten me out the door and on to the next job.
I never use ptfe on compression fittings, but a bit of paste acts as a sealant AND lubricant. Stops that annoying squeal as you tighten the nut. Here in the uk we can use tape on gas fittings, but it has to be the thicker 'one wrap' which only goes round once. Trouble is that it's hard to tell if someone's used the wrong stuff, so hardly anyone used it, and I'm not sure if you can even get it anymore.
I was taught to always start the Teflon tape at the end of the thread that's furthest away from the opening. That way the overlaps don't face the fitting as it is screwed on.
So glad I found your vid. I was wondering if I needed to apply plumber's tape to plastic valve screws for my Airstream water pump replacement. Now I know it's not necessary. Thanks for producing the video.
Great video, with important information, as usual. As a relatively new homeowner, I love this channel. One method for applying PTFE tape that I learned years ago is to first tear off a small length of the tape long enough to wrap around the pipe several times. Twist it up long-ways, into a string, if that makes sense. Then wrap that string around the section of pipe you'll be taping, making sure it's seated down inside the threads of the pipe. Once that's in place, then apply the PTFE tape as normal like you explained. I learned that it gives a bit of an extra 'sureness' to the seal. I've always done it that way, since I learned it, but I'm not sure it's really necessary to do. What's your opinion? It seems to be cool to just use the tape properly without the added step.
Thanks for the tips! Never thought I'd have some advice from the US to use it all the way on the other side of the globe to assemble some garden watering plumbing!..
I do the replacing of faucets. I learned how to put teflon tape properly bcuz sometimes I do the reverse direction. Thank you so much for your video. God bless
I'm in my 60's and have done plumbing all my life (not professionally). I've never used teflon and dope together. I've used them separately but it's never crossed my mind that you could use them together. If I used dope, it's always worked alone and the first try. Probably after teflon had failed.
6 or 7 wraps is way too much all you need is like three or four ... Too many wraps will cause the tape to tear in places and it will cause it to leak once it gets 200 lb of pressure on it because that's what most municipal water companies use and if you ain't got no pressure regulator it's gonna blow ,,.... Yes I'm a retired plumber did it for over 42 years
He read it right off the package. Do you watch these helpful videos just to judge people for not doing things the way you do? Go find something else to do.
Great video! I looked for this because I've been dealing with the installation of a whole-house sediment filter, and the threads will NOT stop leaking. I felt like I had done everything, but I think maybe I was just scared to put on too much tape, like you talk about here. I've been doing exactly 3 wraps every time without deviation. I will definitely try a few more!
Thanks. I think I was nervous the first time and I wrapped it only three times. Still dripped. Took off the tape and w/ confidence held the tape the way you said and counted to make sure I did it six times. No more dripping. Had to do it on a toilet intake which isn't suppose to need it. Thanks - good video!
I love tru-blu, I even use it for an inexpensive non-permanent thread lock for screws. It just takes a little bit longer to dry than expensive thread lock.
I would not use it OVER the teflon tape though, but I agree, thread sealer is the go to solution for performing a secure seal and it also allows one to set taps and angle valves at the exact angle you need. Teflon tape does not like to be backed off, not even for a half turn.
Another little tip... After you break your tape you can use the spool to press the tape into the threads to hold until ready for the fitting by placing spool edge on first thread and spinning around two-three threads to press the tape in. It will hold until needed.
I use Milrose pink 3 turns pull and stretch into threads . Here’s a tip when screwing plastic threads into metal leave first three plastic threads naked and Teflon tape the rest .Helps prevent cross threading and yes I use plastic rated joint compound over the tape .
I think another mistake is using the wrong thread tape for the fluid passing through the conductor. I don't think PTFE is recommended for gas piping. I don't know what it's made of, but I know that it is yellow instead of white, so that it is easily distinguished.
I checked the data sheets for a couple of different thread tapes for natural gas, propane etc. One white and one yellow. They were both made from PTFE. The temperature range was higher than that of the tape for regular water installations so it's probably some different formulation of PTFE, maybe with some fire retardant additive too.
Thanks for that. I was just taught to use the yellow, but didn't actually know why. Now i have a better understanding and that's what it's all about.@@skunkjobb
Teflon is a lubricant, not a sealant. It reduces friction so you achieve the seal the tapered threads are designed for. ...And yes, you can use it to stop a dripping (low pressure) connection on straight threads...but anything with water resistant "bulk" will do the same.
@@howtodoitdude1662 No it's not, You can't use it on Natural Gas lines. You may find formed "Teflon" seals on low pressure connections. You may find Teflon as an addition to a sealing compound.....but it's not there for sealing. The correct Pipe Dope is your best friend....not Teflon tape. It's just for NPT threads....or a half-assed leak repair.
For compression fittings on older pipes with a dent from previous install, I like to add rector seal to the stub out. Otherwise 50% of the time angle stop will leak.
In my opinion people should learn to use plumbing flax and thread putty over teflon tape. It's a bit trickier but essentially follows the same principle but it's extremely reliable joint which you can even undo few rotations and it still wont leak. Works with water and pressurized air and despite what some people say in my experience it also holds glycol just fine.
That makes no sense. People who don't diy would be more likely to call a plumber. Even if a DIYer messes it up they will only call a plumber once, the same amount of times they would have if they didn't try themselves.
@@pobsdad mate water is wet and runs down hill. You can Google the regulations. Plumbing is the easiest least skilled trade (including painters and plasterers).
I learned a new trick just the other day not mentioned and that is the color of the tape matters. White is for water plumbing and yellow is for gas/propane.
Hi Gary from the UK here, I'm a plumbing and heating engineer for way too long, on compression joints I put a smear of joint compound so the olive has something to seat against and don't over tighten the joint, if it needs a little nip up then you have a bit of wiggle room if you have a leak
I think the simplest rule of thumb is that Teflon tape is only for tapered pipe threads. It lubricates the threads and then fills the microscopic gaps and imperfections between the threads as they are wedged tightly against each other. I can't see the logic of ever using it on a straight thread as there is never a point where it is compressed into a tight seal.
I mean i could kinda understand that if you are talking about 3rd world countries, but in general you should use tape and dope in conjunction. Anything else and a decent plumber would just mock you.
Green is to identify oxygen pipes and does not contain any petroleum products in its chemical makeup. Using it on pipes which are not oxygen lines can cause confusion and could lead to misidentifying the lines. Never do this. Yellow is for natural gas pipes . The colors have a meaning and in some places you can be fined for misuse (similar to wiring with wrong color wires as to hot, neutral and ground wires). You could be held legally responsible if someone gets hurt from mislabeling in wrong tape or wire colors.. Caution to this point for sure!
@@mrstanskaggs1 this comment is misleading. Using green Teflon for different applications is perfectly fine. You can use if for oxygen, air, inert gas, or water just fine. Basically if you use the green it will be fine for most, if not all situations. If you fail to use green on an oxygen system, it can result in fire and you can be held liable if the cause of the fire is investigated. NEVER use teflon coloring to label or identify a system. This advice is wrong. Over 10 years in the oil and gas and electric industry. Using green Teflon will never get you in trouble. However, it’s less pliable and harder to work with. Improper labeling can cost you your job or your life.
@@mrstanskaggs1 "Green is to identify oxygen pipes and does not contain any petroleum products in its chemical makeup." Yeah no. That is not true at all. SOME brands do that for SOME of their products in SOME regions - but in general that is just wrong.
Good to know I wasn't doing this wrong and I am not a plumber . It's mostly common sense that isn't really that common apparently .😅 This is good for first timers I guess . It's kind of funny that he got the thread dope over the end of the pipe where he said not to put the thread seal tape . Maybe that's not going to create a problem . Thanks for your time and explanations .
The pipe dope/tape fills the void between crests and roots of the threads and lubricates the thread faces. It flows into place when compressed also filling common imperfections -- reduces need to over-tighten.
Another great video. But I have to admit, a lot of this is common sense. I only use 3 wraps and I have never had a problem. I think anymore wraps is wasteful. Just recently I used this to fix a plastic hose coupling that had stripped and so I wrapped it and stopped the leaking. This saved me money. I would advise you to cut the tape instead of snapping it off because it's a pain to start the next wrap with a string of tape.
A lot of things seem simple or obvious once you know it. At the end of the day people only know something if they've been taught, or went and learned it themselves
@@LamboGallardo560 If you think about the tool and how it's designed, you should be able to figure out how to properly use it. Tape is not that complicated.
A couple things you didn't cover is using the white Teflon tape used for water on gas line which uses a different grade of Teflon, usually colored yellow. Other than that, you made me see a mistake I frequently make.
Good points. I thought about adding the tape colors and their uses but felt like the video was getting long so decided to leave that out. It's a great point though - use the right tape for the job.
I am very experienced because I wrapped hundreds of pipes. Stainless steel steam and water. I start the tape two threads from the end. Pipes are tapered. They seal as you tighten. I start with one wrap then as much as 3 or 4 at the back. I also use the edge of the plastic roll and roll it over the threads to push the tape into the threads. Germany uses strait pipes that don’t taper. They require string in the threads. I’ve done those too. The thing about liquids sealers is THEY HAVE TO DRY 24 Hours. Read the label! Each product has a different cure time. Stronger sealers have slow dry time.
While threading on fittings is it advisable to reverse (or unthread) a little (say 20-45 degrees) a fitting sealed with teflon to fit and match the install??
Hi, can you explain why PPR metal treads are always only straight threads instead of a tapered thread. I have a lot of trouble stopping them from leaking and do you have any ideas as to help seal this type of a joint. I use them a lot connecting PPR to existing GI pipes but never have much success first time. PS Why is the tread always strange looking like little cuts in the treads.
Tape won't make up for a bad o-ring, but it will prevent the nut from rusting onto the fitting. You could use silicone grease, but the tape is convenient.
100% right on not applying teflon tape on first thread. Years ago we had a plumber install teflon tape extending past the threads damaging two chemical pumps.
IS IT OK TO USE TEFLON TAPE ON OLD GM CAR GASOLINE FUEL LINE FITTINGS WHERE THEY SCREW INTO THE CARB, OR WILL THE TEFLON DISSOLVE & POSSIBLY CLOG UP THE FUEL FILTER OR EVEN THE SMALL PASSAGES IN THE CARB?
How do I know when to use pipe dope? From the comments, they seem to say either use tape or dope but not both, which contradicts the video. My suspicion is that dope is needed in higher pressure situations, but I am not sure at what pressure that is required. Maybe I should look on the box that came with my PTFE/Teflon tape but I can't find it at the moment.
From my research and in talking to plumbers, everyone seems to have different opinions on this but one thing that makes a lot of sense to me is that if you're making connections that will be very difficult to access later on, use pipe dope or tape and dope. Underground and in -all, especially. For exposed and easy to access areas like under a sink, teflon tape might be sufficient. It seems like if you ask ten people about this you'll get ten answers but I wanted to bring awareness to the fact that you have options and sometimes tape by itself isn't the best solution.
2:54 the one exception to this is maybe a shower head. But the tape isn’t for water sealing, it’s to make the treads tighter so it doesn’t loosen with daily adjustments.
I've always known the tape is not for sealing but have never heard AnyOne say that. It lubes the threads letting them get tighter for the same amount of 'twist' 'good man 😎
Thank you for sharing these Plumbing Basics 101! After 30+ years in the medical field (Army Medic, Instructor, etc.,), I shifted my focus & started as an associate at a large retail home improvement store’s Plumbing section. Saving & Sharing this/these great easy to understand Plumbing Basics whenever possible. I carry Teflon tape w/me to give visual clarity to customers not as familiar with the what, why, how, etc. 🧡 it. 👩🔧👨🔧🧻🪈
Now that I’ve watched the PEX pipe video. I understand the basic concept. It’s kind of like what’s used in automotive coolant lines and other things. I’m not sure if it’s any better or easier than PVC. Maybe it depends on what you’re used to.
6 to 7 Wraps is for the crappy DIYer thin stuff from a typical box store. Quality tape is a bit thicker and requires no more than 4. Regardless of which one you use, be sure to slightly stretch the tape when applying. This will help to keep it in place during installation. If it is too loose, it will migrate up the threads. Pipe threads are tapered, so this is important to keep the tape in place to avoid cracking the fittings trying to get it to seal if the tape moved. Cheers.
All of his training was done on a connection that was out in the open but I wish he had covered tricks to wrapping connections that are in very tight spaces that might be barely wider than your finger. I don't have a good way to do it. Usually, I tear off a short length and try to use two fingers to wrap the piece and then do it again with a second and maybe a third piece. Finally, I force the tape into the threads by rubbing my finger over the threads, to force the tape into the threads. There is no good way to start with a long piece because usually static cling makes the tail get folded over on itself. It's generally a frustrating mess.
i went to a place that installs furnaces & they sold be the blue paste in a can. it was 20 bucks for 1 can but i have zero leaks on my propane trunkline.
Many don’t realize that pipe threads are tapered. (NPT=National Pipe Taper) Tightening threads is akin to driving in a wedge. Teflon is a lubricant as well as a sealer. It just seals what isn’t wedged solid.
He forgot one (and only) important fact...teflon tape does not seal. It merely helps reduce friction on pipe threads so that there is the tapered pipe threads are tight enough to seal on their own. The tape gets shreaded when pipe threads are tighten. That would seem obvious except for "professional" YT DIYers.
