I love many things about your videos: you talk (too many guys act like everyone knows what they're doing and why), you're funny without being contrived, you're honest, you admit that you can and do make mistakes, and your videos are not tool shows where you try to show us all your cool tools and convince us that we need just one more tshotshke. Thanks!
I also love that she didn't sand the joints before showing us at the end. Most of the YT wood channel presenters would sanded, filled with sawdust and glue, and sanded again. Tamar gave us an honest look at how the joints really look without cleaning them up.
Wd 40 is nowhere near my shop....it's a nightmare if you get it on the saw because it gets all over everything and your finish will still fish eye and separate even if it's been several days since it was used and you can't even see it
I know a lot of people don’t know this… You can spray WD-40 on tar, And it will remove it from clothing. W 40 has many uses, the least of all is lubricating
As a cabinet builder we use most of the technics you showed mostly on doors but we have an edge bander machine that uses hot melt glue veneer banding that will do hundreds of doors very quickly, very strong because you literally have to use the machine to remove the edge band . Nice demo 👌
I personally do NOT like edge banding. especially for furniture that has to deal with water or any other liquids. tables, underside of doors, countertops. often I get called in to replace the existing (or non) edge band as it has come away from the table top or door.
i'm a cabinet builder and using an edge banding machine is efficient for a production standpoint but not the most durable. It's still sufficient for most cabinets.
This is quickly becoming my favorite DIY/woodworking channel. I was actually looking for a way to not empty my wallet on high-end hardwoods for a project, and still make it look like a classy cabinet. You inspired me to experiment with this!
You are inspiring on so many levels. I love how you open a dialog with us as viewers and take us with you. I always feels so involved and I learn more from your teaching style than anyone else on RU-vid. You are amazing
@@3x3CustomTamar Great Video! The presentation was well orchestrated with good pace, but not so fast that the audience misses out on key facts. This video is going into my permanent library. Thanks, Patrick
This is what I like no loud music playing in the background all your video you take your time and explains I believe even a little child could understand, is the reason why I stuck with your Chanel 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍💯
You always seem to find such interesting alternate ways of doing things and that adds so much to the quality of your videos. Thank you so much for all the effort it takes to create these. I know that there is a BUNCH of work done off camera to make them so professional. I also like the way you integrated the Audible commercial seamlessly. It is SO much better than the jarring way others get thrust at you...so in your face and jarring to the flow of the video. Love your work. Thank you.
This popped up on my RU-vid recommended. So happy I clicked, I do a little edge banding on plywood, I use glued timber edging mainly for basic workshop units to withstand wear and tear, but nice to see other options for nice stuff. Thanks from the UK
This was a fantastic tutorial . I love the last V-groove with the miter joint . strong and clean . Thank you so much Tamar for these videos . Wood working for the whole family is great .
This is the first video by Tamar I have seen. Definitely won't be the last. She just might just be the best youtube creator I have seen yet. Well thought out explanations with great detail and the great editing left zero wasted time. Even the sponsorship wasn't just a few boring minutes but her project was incorporated. I'm geeking out right now 🤩
Nice, narration and I like that you don't play music in the background (not afraid of silence) I like hearing the sounds made in the creation process in the shop. Good quality video. I like that you gave enough explanation for the people who may not know much in wood working but not so much that a more experienced audience would not get bored (I think you found the right balance).
Can I just say I love seeing a lady doing this? women perspective and approach is definitely different than men and I love to see this diversity, and I simply learn better, please keep up the good work
Super informative, thank you for this video. While watching, it occurred to me that you could also leave some extra material with most of these edges and then use a router bit to leave a nice rounded specialty edge. Thanks again Tamar! 😊
Complement: YOU explained very well all details needed to reproduce your project. Even pausing to instruct what you were ABOUT to do AND WHY. That is HOW to produce a Quality RU-vid video. Please take this to Heart and continue. You are making a difference.
Hi Tamar ! Thanks for the video ! One easy technique I would encourage you to try if you haven't yet, it to cut a 45° strip all alont the edge of the plywood, taking care that the exterior of the blade contacts the edge of the board whose edge you want to hide, and just take the small strip (which should be a triangle with two sides' length = thickness of the board and 1 side 45° cut) and just rotate it 180° and glue it back. Then the facinf of the ply is facing out and the edge it facing down. It's a really cool look !
Richard Hatt story of my life. Wife: thought you were staining that? Me: I though paint would look better....(talks to self) thank God for wood filler🤣
A quick FYI....not sure if this was mentioned in the comments so I'll add it here...although not usually an issue with short pieces of plywood, longer pieces may have a slight "bow" in them....when running the piece past the router bit it's important to keep the piece flat against the table to ensure your groove/tongue stays consistently in the centre of your piece....for this, a vertically placed feather board on your router fence is just the ticket....run your plywood/other with the bow "up".....the feather board will press down against the piece keeping it flat on the table for that consistent center cut.....PS...you videos are great with no nonsense...I like that!!
Great video Tamar, my personal preference is the combination "tongue and groove" and " V groove"... it makes the edge look natural, and is very strong. Can't wait to try it out on a project I'm doing.
If you use a good high-quality, high-ply plywood, the sanded and finished exposed edge looks good and doesn't need to be covered at all. It's a bit nostalgic for me as school furniture back in the 60's was made this way. I have done this for my kitchen cabinet shelves and my wife and I both love the look.
I used the spline method last year on a wrap around desk for my wife - worked great and is really strong. I think the edge banding bit set has the best outcome, but until I do more edge banding, the price is not quite right. Love your videos and even your product plugs are pleasant (certainly MUCH better than other videos with ads breaking in). You got a subscribe because of that, haha.
The router ones (including the v grove one) are my favorites cause I would rather use the router, and it being flush is rather neat. Then again, the most fashion way to make it flush is to not make if flush, but make it look like decorative detailing. Say a dark frame around a light top or vice versa (needs not be straight, or contained to the border). Filling, smooth sanding and painting the edges, and only the edges, might be an option for adding a dash of color while hiding the edges too. At any pace, as long as it looks like its an intentional design element, that is how people will look at it.
If you are slightly oversized you can sand it down after. I just prefer to use strips of about quarter inch to one inch for edging. If you are using it for a modern style hinge on a modern cabinet small strips are strong enough when glued on. You can even use a thicker strip with profiled edges if you want. V groves would be strong but probably overkill to be honest but then again it all depends on what you want it for. If you want the edge to structural then V groove or tongue and groove is he way to go.
@@bighands69 With V grooves the thing I like the most is time of production. With the right(ish) gear and set up, you can do it all pretty fast, nice and easy.
While taking a brief moment away from my graduate studies, I needed to visit 2 of my favorite sites. Naturally, you’re one of them. Writing purely as a layman, I must say, “You are an Educator!” I am learning much! Thank you! Semper Fi
I have never been good at woodworking but I am a DIY kind of guy and so thus over the years have had to do wood work here and there and along the way I have taught myself a lot (and wasted a lot of money in the process). Now a days with RU-vid being an endless platform for How-To's and short lessons like this one I have gained much more confidence with wood work. My girlfriend and I recently purchased a home (well she purchased and I am helping with other misc) I have built a large off the ground dog bed, floating shelves, a blanket ladder, a double trash can cabinet, work benches for the garage, soon a covered deck and I need to replace a door our dog demolished. I picked up a router to do an ogee and radius edge on the dog bed and shelves and now I just want to use the router on everything, haha. Where I used to dread wood work back in the day I actually am starting to enjoy it. It's like going down the rabbit hole, so many possibilities and things you can create. Anyway's I am rambling but the moral is - Thanks for making cool videos like these for us noobs to enjoy! I like your style :)
@@3x3CustomTamar Would love to hear more about your general router table setup, including which router and lift you are using. I've see the table/fence linked to on your website, but could not find other details.
That was a very helpful and comprehensive video covering all methods of edge banding. This retired cabinet/furniture maker was always skeptical using iron on veneers and only started using that type of veneer when melamine was required for a project. Forty years later I was pleasantly surprised that those iron on veneers are still holding up. I later started using iron on veneers for plywood and never had a failure but only use them for shelf edges and never for exposed outside edges on doors or cabinet boxes with inset doors.
Great video, always learn something new, and this time it was stripping the veneer layer off the plywood for banding. A couple of other methods I've used in the past: 1. Biscuits - Quick and easy (just uses a hand-held tool), but not super strong. Kind of in between the glue-only and spline examples you showed. 2. 45 degree miter lock router bit - while normally used for miters, I use it when you don't want a seam on the top surface. Nice because it's a single bit that does both pieces (very cool the first time you see it). Use a sacrificial piece to prevent tear-out.
Great video thanks! In the end I decided not to use any of these methods (just went with a varnish coating for a plywood-based bike lockup) but I'm sure I'll make use of some of them in the future. That last combo bit set method was particularly interesting.
Thanks - I am getting back into woodworking after about 30+ years and I saved this video as something I'll refer back to in the future. Subscribed...mainly because you're OCD detail oriented as I am.
I subscribe to a lot of DIY and woodworker sites just for entertainment and some ideas (I am NOT a woodworker, metalworker or any other type of handy-artist). Just gotta say, you are the most natural screen presence, best information/idea source and professional out there. Ok, maybe tied with one or two. But you do a great job of educating, demonstrating and encouraging folks like me. Thanks! Keep doing good stuff!
I tend to agree, Tony. If you can't bury the plywood edges in your project, go with solid wood. The price differential is not worth the extra work involved!
@@vschwenoha agreed... had my volume all the way up to hear her voice and when the beeps hit it blew my ears out. Great video but please check volume levels in post-production.
My second comment: Since that bit set lined up the edges so well, I wonder if it could also be used for edge jointing to align small table top panels, etc. for clue up. Just a thought.
Your're totally right sir. Sometimes the choice of the method (or the choice of the right router bit set) depends on other aspects. Using this bit set for your purpose whoul surely produce a stronger (and more durable) joint than biscuits, but be aware that it will need some additional care in calculating the exact final width of the boards. By the way, it is an awesome method!
Thanx Tamar. A humble tip: to help old, tired eyes, may I suggest you use dark hardwood for the edge in your demonstrations? The contrast in wood colors makes for a better visual aid.
Great video running through the options. I showed my wife so we could talk about the finish we wanted on a project I'm working on. her comment was "wow, she must get so much sawdust caught in that curly hair" So I have to ask, do you tuck it all under the beanie when cutting in the shop? I get sawdust and wood shavings in my beard all the time.
Tamar, you've got it going on. I'm not a woodworker but every once in a while I get a bug to do a small project. This is one topic I was really interested in and I believe you've given me just the idea I need. Thanks.
Interesting stuff. But just as I can't walk and talk without dragging my knuckles. I can't listen to music when I'm concentrating on cuts. I wear ear defenders to reduce noise but still like to hear what's going on with the tool.
@@3x3CustomTamar I just watched a maker apologize for not having a "sliding" miter saw and that he would have to make due with his regular one SMH. I was like, Really? You need to watch some episodes of Woodwrights dude! I like that you have invested more in your Incra miter setup than your tablesaw. Shows where your passion is. I also have a jobsite table saw and do a lot of great work on it.
Just when I was wondering how to put an edge on my plywood. You turned up with this video. Thank you. PS What sort of plywood did you use in this video because I want to buy some where I live.
I can't think of anyone who loves to have their videos interrupted for bill paying (sponsor hawking), but I love how you did yours. By continuing the work while telling people about something relevant to the task was rather smooth. I didn't feel the need to skip forward in the video at all. So win/win and I guess win for us all.
@@dennisschickling5759 no, no it doesn't. I don't know why you think that. It only has one advantage which is more glueable surface which is a stronger bond.
@@leonardhall7203 if you have the flat board at 8 inches the one side cut at a 45° the other board at 3 inches also cut at a 45° and glue up the 2 45° together. The side profile will LOOK Like the board is 3 inches thick.
I've used iron-on edge banding for years!! I use a heat gun & a pair of leather gloves so I don't burn my fingers!! I loved the tip about WD-40 on router bits. I do a lot of routing & it is definitely one of the biggest problems!!
i agree with your edge band challenge, however its never a good idea to share attention when using power tools or driving for that matter. each require undivided attention, Its not fun having your digits reattached... trust me i know.
While I appreciate the need for advertisers, nothing scares me more than something that distracts me from the work. You need 100% of your attention to the spinning blades.
I don't actually see the need for advertisers or sponsors. If your content is good your videos get plenty of views and you get revenue. Many woodworking channels are beginning to do away with them because the sponsors have generally started demanding how the ads are worded and where in the video they're placed and how much of the video's time they take up. That douche that pushes the Saw Stop relentlessly and the one that pushes the Powermatics being exceptions. Sponsors ruin videos and my interest in a channel. As I understand the revenue stream the sponsors are also a fairly short term and temporary revenue stream that drops off after a year or two as the sponsors switch to newer channels.
Well done with the w 40 oil to avoid the router-bits burns out...it is something new, I do not knew yet,until now that I wacthed your video, on how to do different ways to adjoin e wood-edges...also I saw another of your videos,where you made beauriful boxes with trigle-patterns. Ofcourse, here in mexico,I do not have lots,and lots of machinery and lots,lots of clamps!!! Like you in your shop; like it make me feel that Iam a carpinter but from the stone-edge! That I got to build a router table out of solid wood,rather than play wood,because here in mexico it is too expensive,which it would it be much easer and better router table and also the saw-table,I made it too!!! But it does the job,,since I just began working with wood !! Well, thank you for your expertise shared!! Iam one of yours admirer! Greetings from mexico,beautiful girl!
you have the most helpful informative interesting way of teaching thank u i m just starting to use wood tools, sws, routers etc, im making a scalloped lrhe picket fence and also tongue and grooving my ceiling right now doing a new 12 ft gate etc. you are awrsome and inspiring to me i am 66 yr old retired RN, artist etc .. so glad to have found u.. if u ever want to come to visit in florida i have a huge lake home in big lake harris close to disney sea world etc u r welcome to bring ur family.. lisa
Agreed! I never listen to books while running machines in my shop, and I rarely listen to music then too. I just think it's too easy to get distracted and lose a finger (and I have a SawStop!).
I don't have a router table. But I think the v cut method with the table saw is my best choice given all the methods you demo. I tried it. Used wood glue and clamps. Worked great with 3/4" plywood and pine board. Thanks for the idea!
Got a wild hare up to look at manufacturing gaming tables (Ideally to sell as a side project/hustle/whatever), and this is 100% my plan to make customizable edges for the dining table top/vault cover. I can make them flush for people who like the square/modern edge look, or with a little more material, add some fancy edge profiles for folks feeling more traditional.
OK Tamar, so first, I like whatever you like, and after watching and listening to you, I wouldn't dare to disagree with anything you say. Second, I am really happy that I live in Germany and cannot buy many of the items that you recomend from US suppliers, because your face and style of presentation are so open and honest that it is difficult to refuse your suggestuions. Deep waters and a depth of skill and knowledge, an honest face and sparkling eyes, and I am trying to limit my viewing of your back catalogue to ensure that there is always another interesting item still to watch.
I had a nice piece of plywood slated to be a cabinet top, and was sad to discover the shop cut produced a spot of tearout in a visible spot. A thin veneer (like iron-on or cut from another ply piece) wouldn't have worked but your second method of having a solid, thick piece of actual wood edging will be perfect - I'll just remove another quarter inch or so and then glue on that hardwood piece. It'll get rid of the flaw nicely AND provide a little accent that I probably wouldn't have thought of otherwise. Thanks, that was super helpful!
I'm a novice and have watched this video 7 or 8 times. I bought the Amana edge band bits. Getting ready to use them on my first ever project involving a router table.
Another benefit to your video library. I'm making some folding tables with some off cuts I got from the community wood shop to include some high end plywood. Now I have a few methods to cover the exposed edges. These videos are timeless. Thanks again.
Watching this video again, I noticed something unique about the homemade veneer version. If you cut the veneer from the end of your main piece, you can have a continuous grain when you glue it to the edge.
Custom quilting island needed a top. Used 3/4” Baltic Birch. I used some figured sugar maple I’d harvested from the property a few years back. Your clever idea for the router groove on both parts and using a 1/4” spline was perfect! Special thanks from a fellow homeschooler.
excellent video. learned something very useful. What was really seamless was the way you incorporated pitching the products without loosing a beat. Excellent job.
This video was recommended to me by RU-vid and I decided to watch it out of a vague curiosity. I'm so glad I did! It was great ! Terrific job. I can't even call myself a beginner, I'm basically a lurker woodworking wanna be. But watching videos like this one makes me want to actually go out, buy some tools, and get started.
@@3x3CustomTamar I plan to. Need to knock out a couple of bills, but I should be up and running soon, maybe even next month. Thank you for stoking my woodworking interest. :)
