I dont know how I did it but I understood everything you said..ive always had a hard time understanding electrical systems. Im an idiot...yet I get it. Thank you sir!!!
Wow, what a great video! It was so much fun having the meter right in my hands as I watched your video. You are easy to follow. Each time I thought I had a question you went ahead and answered it in the next sentence. What a blast sticking the thingys on to a 9V battery that was really fun. I had to laugh about blowing the circuit breaker on the hair dryers. You must have a lot of women in your household. Tell them to stay away from the Hot setting, it will fry their hair! Next time I blowdry my hair I am going to be thinking "7 amps" LOL
Hey Ron Ruben here I spoke to your page on Facebook about the 45-113 pliers and no one here has them in their stores yet I am a collector/ fan of that style of pliers I am trying to aquire them to see who's I like the best. If you could post a video of them that would be nice.
Good tutorial. One thing that is absolutely counter intuitive for me is the fact that when the 'A' symbol is gone you are in auto range, not out of auto-range. I get what their thinking was, I just think it's reverse logic, especially considering the APO acronym is on when you are in APO (Auto power-off). I've had this unit for many years, great meter, also the NCV (Non contact voltage indicator) is a nice feature to have. The only grudge for me would be that it doesn't read DC amps, not a huge deal though.
Hi Ron excellent video I have the same clamp meter. But I have a question how you call the device that you plug into the cord extencion and from there you can use you clamp from the meter for test AMP thank you
Tino there is no volume control I have found on some testers they beep but at a high enough frequency that I can't hear it. If your tester is less than 2 years old is should be under warranty. Ron
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 It has a vauge sound which might be what you describe, but I'm not sure if it's reliable. I inherited it, no warranty. I still use everything else. I'm not a home inspector anymore when I had equipment. I just use it around the house, etc. Thank you.
I bought this meter recently and when I try to test continuity between the two leads, it takes some time before it actually starts to sound off a beep, and I see the resistance jumping in the 200-300 Ohms range randomly. I know it only sounds off a beep at under 28 Ohms. If I put the leads tip to tip, it doesn't pick up anything at all. I have to use the middle area or base of the leads' metal needles to get it to work, and it is intermittent. The meter or leads seem(s) weak. Is this normal? I have a cheaper Klein meter (which has its own problems) and it senses continuity almost immediately across the entirety of the metal test-lead needles, even when there is low battery power.
Hey Ron, Which model Ideal meter will perform all the measurements that this 61-746 will do plus read DC amps? Also, whichever meter you suggest does it also have a min/max feature? Thanks
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 Thanks Ron for directing me to the 61-747. I picked up one last night. Looking forward to using it for both residential work and on vehicles (particularly the DC current function for finding parasitic draws). Cheers.
Ron, I was wondering was is the effective range of the NCV (Non Contact voltage) feature ? For example would it be able to help me locate a live wire behind drywall before I drill a hole or put a nail ?
Short answer; Very possibly/likely... Long answer; lol , old question that should have been answered years ago, by someone/anyone , hello...???!! lol, so yeah, I would say VERY POSSIBLE, I just tested mine, it starts reading/buzzing at about 5'' / 13cm , most residential wires are going to be within 4.5'' , of the interior drywall surface, and typically , the wires are strapped center of stud at about 2 to 3 inches of the drywall surface.
61-415 Fork Meter if wanting a slide over style meter or a 61-347 multimeter if you want to measure accurately down to milliamps DC current. But the accuracy of the 415 would be less at lower amperages. What’s the total range and what is the active voltage with the current??
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 thanks for the reply I came across a bunch of used panels to be tested so the amps reading needs to be 10% accurate or better….from 8 to 15 amps…volts around 30 to 50.
I have /had a love affair with your 61-702 till she stopped working….left it out over night…and may have got moisture inside….any chance it’s repairable?
Hi Ron, Just started to look for multi-meters and wondered if this is same thing? I am not an electrician but needed to test some electrical parts to see if current was going through it or not. I realize I could buy anything but happened upon one of these at a good price. Will this do all the functions like a multi-meter? I realize they are all different, but many times I work on electric powered miter saws and have to fix the laser part of it which has a separate power supply and have to see if these are bad or not, or is it the on off button for the laser, or is it the connections going to the laser itself, or is it the laser. Is this the tool I need for this type of testing? I really am having a hard time even finding anyone who even knows how to fix these let alone diagnose the issue which has brought me here by chance in looking for a multi-meter. I appreciate any info you can give me.thanks
Hi Greg the big difference between a clamp meter like the one in the video and a multi-meter is how they measure amperage. As the name imply's a clamp meter clamps around a conductor and it reads the magnetic field generated by the current flowing through the wire and can measure higher amounts of amperage were a multi-meter using the test leads has the current flowing through the meter and generally is limited to about 10 Amps. From what you are saying a multi-meter might be a better choice. Good luck Ron
I tested a 110 electric fence and my meter has gone blank. The ncv still makes noise and lights up and the batteries are good. Could I have blown a fuse in it? Any ideas? Lee
+Lee Watson Lee there is no fuse in the meter and it is a Cat III rated tester and designed to be used inside the building in all the branch wiring and inside electrical panels. The fence may have damaged the tester. Send me an address to my ron.kipper@idealindustries.com email and I will send you a slightly used but functional meter to replace it. I have a couple I'd be willing to part with. I will take care of it for you. have a good night and thanks for watching.Ron
Hi mrpush p no you cannot change that on the meter. If you need to read small amounts of DC I would recommend you using a digital multi-meter instead. Good luck Ron
Ron Kipper Datacomm Thanks Ron...I wish they would have made it do more decimals there so I didn't need another meter! Maybe by design, who knows. Thanks!
Hello! The readings should be very similar wherever the wire is in the clamp. Keep in mind you can only clamp around the Hot or Neutral not both. If you are getting a big difference something else may be wrong. Take care.Ron
The best amperage readings from my experience have always been having the wire you are tesing as close to center of the clamp as possible, though if you can't get the wire off the panel wall very far, you can still get a fair reading , by at least getting the wire inside the clamp and clamp fully closed.
got this tester as a part of a starter kit for school, but the test leads tester part is too small in length to stick into a socket for a reading, is there different ones or can I peel back some of this plastic?
The tips of the test leads can be pulled off if you need to. They are included to help make the tester Cat III rated. Just put them back on for future testing. Ron
Hi Ron I have a like new 61-732 clamp meter which I haven't used in a number of years. Went to grab it the other day and it's dead.. tried new batteries gave it a once over and nothing fixes it. Any idea on what could be wrong. I did take it apart and realize there were no fuses. Just don't understand what it could be it's like brand new used it a few times in a class and been stored inside ever since. Thanks
mkjt88 I am not sure what could be wrong with the meter. It has a 2 year warranty but it sounds like it is older than that. Can you take a pic of the front and back and send it to ron.kipper@idealindustries.com? There is a date code on the back which will tell me how old it is. Maybe we can work something out. Thanks Ron
appreciate it Ron email is sent. And yes I believe I bought it around 08-09 when I did my hvac course and just always used my bigger ideal meter since then for various things as I didn't pursue the hvac career. Anyway thanks a lot
I had a similar situation: meter DOA after not using for a while. If you take the back of the meter off (not just the battery hatch) you will find that there are two small square pieces of metal with a finger of metal that connect the coiled springs in the battery tray to two matching pads on the PCB. In my meter, I found that I must have had some minor leakage from the battery that was not visible, but this caused corrosion on one of the pieces of metal. I carefully slid out the corroded connector from behind the battery spring and used very fine grit sand paper to remove the corrosion. Reinserted the connector in the battery tray and meter works fine again. NOTE: I did not touch anything on the PCB or the “guts” side of the meter, only the back cover of the meter that contains the battery tray. Hope this helps!
isidoro have you checked you test leads and replaced the battery? Those are the first things to check. How old is your meter? It comes with a 2 year warranty but you will need your prove of purchase. If that is the case send me your info to my ron.kipper@idealindustries.com email and we will get an RMA going for you. Ron
Ron Kipper Datacomm I bought it about 5 years ago but it was only sitting on my garage so I don't know there's a place where I could send it and and have it fixed if you could help me with that everything
Hi Alexander we have not made the 61-704 for several years now and we do not have any replacement parts. The current model is the 61-704 if you are interested. Ron
Don't store these with the batteries in them. I put mine away for a couple of years as I moved and no longer needed it. Today I did need it, went into my toolbox and after putting fresh batteries in it... nothing. Completely dead. A hundred bucks out the window.
@@RonKipperDatacomm1 Ron, he didn't say the battery leaked, if it didn't leak , and is not going to leak, why would that be a good idea? Does a battery that doesn't leak create a problem with the meter while it is stored? I haven used my meter for about 5 or more years, forgot I had it. Just took it out and works fine, with the battery that was in it for that period of time.
