Now that the 66 Chevelle has all the rust repairs finished, the guys can get started on the bodywork. Then it heads over to Dan to get painted and get the finishing touches. Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE!
At 05:07 - 5:14... using a straight edge - this is how you get perfect panel alignment and transitions and ultimately, flawless reflection as your eye travels from one panel to the next. These guys are top-notch! Bravo!
As straight as you can do the body work you still have to glaze the whole car to get the body really straight however with this guys first way of shaving the not so dried body filler with a cheese grader is not advisable it can pull the not so dried filler away from the metal and you will not know it for years to come other than that these guys do really nice work I have been doing concourse paint work for forty years mostly on Mercedes like Gullwings .if you spread the filler smooth you don’t need to use a cheese grader also if you let the filler dry over night it is better also because filler shrinks I know it is way harder but if you want your filler and paint work to last you can’t rush it just really think it just makes common sense
As someone who worked in a body shop in the late 60's and early I was flabbergasted a few years back when I saw a restoration vehicle being skim coated. After reading up and understanding the process, it makes perfect sense to get straight panels especially since the covering is not the same chemically as the old fillers. These epoxy and urethane based skim coaters are much more stable with limited shrinkage.
On the body filler, there are a million ways to skin a cat. This method is the most thorough along with the most work. No shortcuts here. Impossible to miss a spot this way. Nice one!
Most people in the comments are trashing on the "Bondo" work. I on the other hand can appreciate the insane amount of work that is actually being put it to make this car look better than factory! Keep up the amazing work guys! ya'll inspire me every time I see a new video!
Thanks Brad, it's a ton of work for sure. Great to hear some people appreciate it ;-). Yeah, the same people will probably talk your ear off about how much they love this or that custom car at a show (or more likely they've never even been to a show), but this is how a lot of that perfection is achieved. They just think filler = bad and that you can metalwork a surface to be flawless.
Agreed. This work is not easy. The one thing I would like to see though. Especially on a build of this level. Is the body filler being mixed on a scale at the exact 2% ratio every time it’s mixed. I don’t like seeing the Willy nilly this much activator looks good. Just my two cents. Not trying to be critical.
You can’t have a show quality paint job without filler whether it be plastic or lead. Anyone that says otherwise can have fun building one car every 30 years while the rest of us do it the smart way.
"Show quality" doesn't mean dick. Hilarious you say it "can't be done" but your way is the "smart way". Equally hilarious is putting on mud referred to as "body work". And you referring to lead and plastic like they're remotely close on the "skill scale" and "interchangeable". Go get plastic to stick to "bare metal" and/or lead to "stick" to anything but "bodyman".
Cheese-graters and Viking air files. 99% of the channels have never even seen these tools, let alone know how to use them. Now that is old school and done right. FYI it gets the bulk down quickly allowing you to save enormous amounts of time to get the basic shape. Then you come back and hand block until laser straight.
Exactly 👍😏 I used to use cheese graters back when but nowadays I like to use some older used 40/80 grit sandpaper for shaping (as the filler is curing) on the higher build stuff. Especially on the old 30s, 40s, early 50s fenders etc. Otherwise, usually I like to get my filler laid as slick as my panel and let it dry and 80 grit it down with NO need for a bunch of extra mud needing sanded. Some jobs DO require such but you get your metal STRAIGHT? Ya shouldn't need to load it up with mud needing to cheese grade/sand down while the filler is drying but? There ARE them exceptions. And I use the hell out of my airboards too as well getting that stuff cut down! 👍 Hutchins and Dynabrade make the BEST stuff from sanders to the actual wooden/hard plastic blocks IMO.
Trigger finger/tendonitis/carpel tunnel aggravating bastards are what those blocks are! Yes they DO work well IF you don't have "prior problems" mentioned. Great for them younger guys maybe! Lol. But yeah, I am thinking about maybe trying them "Linear-blocks" they have now 🤔 SAME concept as the flat board block but they have circular handles actually giving the person something to grip/hold onto! 👍 No big deal. Just MORE $$$ thrown out on sanding blocks. 😆 Lol
Man I wish I had all that equipment and space. Made it look easy and the crew on the same page. Struggle is real over here... finances aren't coming in anymore. After watching this I think I should just sell my mcss85
I had no idea I live only 3 hours away from one of the coolest body shops around. I would totally take my 68 GMC to you guys for paint and body if I could. Awesome job ya'll😎🤟🏻
Great work! I got a question though I noticed you guys did the bodywork and set the gaps with the bracing still in the car does this ever create a problem when you cut it out? Keep up the hard work on the videos!
Watch these guys they use a lot of gloves because your hands have oils and moisture on them that can ruin a paint job and can can create rust and small bubbles under the surface when stripping cars down to bare metal with chemical stripper I have seen complete hand prints from guys putting there hands on the cars to push them around my 2cents these guys build bad ass cars
Hard to believe he really said 600-8000 grit for the polishing stage. This is up there with high level, high $$$$ builds. The fact that they use Glasurit says it all. Concours level.
I can respect the amount of work that is put into this car.. but like my camaro and 69 coronet the factory fit and finish is terrible ( gaps and body lines) however I’d rather have them and enjoy driving them not having to worry leaving them in a parking lot. Once my other camaro goes under the knife the replacement quarters will align how the factory currently is but I’m not making it 💯 perfect. “Close enough “ just like 1971 factory workers did it. Truth be told a guy doing this in his home shop usually never finishes his project when he’s attempting perfect outcome, it takes him 5 times longer and they get burned out or it’s a complete hack job. I restored for almost a decade so I’ve seen some things come through the shop. Honestly the best ones were the ones I was talking about. Minimum filler, lines weren’t laser straight, gaps were off and at first glance the panels looked 💯 original before work was done. We thought we had a straight solid original car but 20% of the metal was replaced.
You wouldn't love paying for it. Waste more time and material and make more money "mudding" and calling it "bodywork" and selling it to "car guys" like you as "paint prep" after leaving 99% of it on the floor and then do enough "masking" to cover a tennis court "shooting" a monochromatic paint job with an HVLP gun in a "professional grade" paint booth and decide how many coats to "shoot" before they even start and with no "sprayout". Then "wet sand" (back and forth in one tiny spot and damned dry) to "8000'" and then "buff" the remaining "clear". Gotta put in a lot of "man hours" to keep that many people paid doing one project at a time, I guess. Really got a kick out of the obvious "surface rust" on the package tray as well as up around the inside of the firewall etc. Not to mention the homemade "trans tunnel" that almost looks like aluminum.
this is good paint job and if you want your paintwork to be strait you must put heavy coat of bondo and then sand much of it .i'm talking about car restoration ,where very often panels have numerous dents .no mater how good the panel beater is god, no mater if he apply lead...you have to strait this with something.there are numerous materials you can put:polyester bondo,epoxy bondo,spray filler of all kinds...but one thing i don't understand???why on heaven they don't use tools with dust extraction ???it can be pneumatic ,electric.even sanding blocks with dust extraction.they like to be dirty and to damage their health???
I actually am getting my 66 Chevelle ready for body work right now, but I had no idea that so much BONDO is supposed to be laid down on straight panels, I have been fortunate so far and have not had to replace my quarter panels, it's a west coast car, but that seems like a lot of mud going on that car, but I digress I am not a Paint and body guy, so is this the proper way before paint?
Most of the Filler (It’s NOT Bondo, Bondo is a brand name) is sanded off, there are several techniques to get a panel straight. Spray filler or high build surfaces are also great options. They are using a premium high grade professional filler by 3M
How long does it take you guys to cut an entire car from 600grit to 8000? Ive only seen up to 5000, had no idea it went up that high, how many coats of clear do you shoot? And what materials do you use to buff?
Classic cars With a restoration and paint job like this I can see is worth the money $$$ for those shit unrestored rust bucket’s and cheap maaco paint jobs Keep watching Barrett Jackson 😂
Hi Gary, yes and no. That's a metal filler panel, but it does get bodyworked. On a lot of mild customs, if we're not doing a custom firewall for engine/transition fitment, generally we replace the firewall with a new metal filler panel to clean things up a bit. These days you can buy these panels for many cars from Summit. If we can't find one we'll make one on the plasma table. Sometimes we'll weld up and metal finish holes on a firewall that's closer to factory to clean things up as well. At the end of the day it all depends on what the customer is going for.
Thanks! It varies a bit with every car and what the customer is looking for, but yeah, you're in the ballpark. Lots of hours, and really no way around it.
I don’t hate on filler but what I don’t see here is transition from flooding it with filler to hi build primer or imperfections like any pin holes addressed….. personally I’d rather hi fill a car , guide coat it , and dolphin glaaze any minor lows …. Seem like a lot of mills will end up on the finished job …. I do get that 89-90 percent of filler was sanded off however , so it’s still a sound job 👍🏻
I do custom paint and body I would have used a bigger spatula it's okay to cheese grade but myself personally I like doing a coat a light coat black sanding it off 36 then building up another Conan just working each panel at a time different conformed blocks to get a really straight panel their job comes out good to but I really don't like that method and pulling up to 8,000 is crazy I've never heard of that I've heard a cutting with 600 that is awfully heavy grit to be cutting with but if you got five coats of clear that is one thing two I like going down to about a thousand maybe 800 depending on how thick to clear is if you don't get a lot of debris in your clear I will go a thousand all day 15 mm 3000 4000 and 5000 then b u f f
Thanks for sharing Ace! Lots of ways to skin a cat - great to hear what processes other people have developed that work for them. We've worked quite a bit with our suppliers to get a set of materials and processes that yield the results we're looking for.
LOL at all these commenters complaining about “all that filler”. Full float filler work is the only way to go for a truly straight body. This, comment section experts, is how it’s done!
I think they refer to who shitty its applied. I know it sands out, but the smoother you start the faster you are done sanding. Some of it looks like its spread after its starting to harden.
Hard work, talent and all the equipment needed, But I just refuse to skim coat any car with body filler. I don't care if the body filler costs 400 dollars per gallon. I would only use body filler pulled extremely tight to fill in minor imperfections and high build primer block and repeat. However the car in this video came out nice looking. I would want a finish to be around 20 years later and people say, " No way this car was painted 20 years ago. "
instead of skimming 80% of the car with bondo. Why not epoxy seal, fix major issues with fill then apply a 2k high build primer and guide coat. Sand 220 fix the highs and lows, then guidecoat and 400, seal before BC.
