About that key in the drivers side low beam area ... Reminded me of when I was in High School in the late '70s. I had a job pumping gas and one of the mechanics that worked at the attached shop had a 64 1/2 Falcon with a 289/4 sp. He had a key like that in the passenger rear quarter that was hooked to a 2nd coil that ran thru a 1 second pulser that was his theft deterrent device. Of course you need to make sure the key has a rubber isolator under it. ;-)
Watching these wiring videos has definitely taken the edge off the knife that is wiring for me. I feel like i can actually attack the wiring in my new project and get the old girl on the road for the first time in two decades
Ah! The lost art of three handed sealed beam replacement! Looks good, nothing better than clear, clean, bright headlights. Fire burger won’t know how to act with all the electrical working on his car. He might think something is REALLY wrong! LOL Thanks for sharing.
I had a 69 convertible for a long time. Headlights were always needing to be replaced. Either burned out or a rock smashed em. A refrigerator magnet will hold the bucket in place while your other two hands can hold the trim ring and headlight. Little tip for the guy who knows everything...
Nice!!!! I just did a Hella H4 conversion on my Nova! What a coincidence. I even put them on relays - oh what a good boy am I. The disgustang is looking great!!! #fundriver
I am surprised that David wanted those bulbs. There are some really decent led's that look like real sealed beams, only brighter and last for many years... I used a lot of those lights to upgrade older bulbs, I never liked installing them since I did fry one the first time by touching it. Never did wear the rubber gloves while working on stuff, but they were pretty hard to get back then... Actually I wore white cotton gloves when doing some stuff as a helicopter mechanic, but that was way back in the day. I had a toolbox drawer for white cotton gloves there. The company provided them.
You should check out octane headlight kits on Amazon or directly through the company. I got a set for my 69 Firebird and there were housings for low and high beams so there’s wasn’t any modifications needed for them to fit. And they’re H4 style as well and they’re awesome. Just another option for the future if you want.
Couple notes - you are using high power H4 bulb, which are not meant for on road use (80/100W). They are too bright and hot. They will eventually damage the chrome inside the lamps. Also the oncomming traffic will thank you. The other thing, it's not like all cars in Europe have parking light connected to a turn signal stock. It's more like VW group thing. The other manufacturers don't do that very often.
The lighting pattern isn’t ideal for driving in the US but can be adjusted to not be to bad. I had opel,VW,BMW,mbz and they all had park lighting and adjustable headlights there before I got my f150. I also did a few TUF conversation that didn’t have park lighting
@@luckysgarageshow The pattern itself is somewhat decent and we use these Hella and Autopal lamps a lot on imported vehicles, but we use the right H4 bulbs, which have 55/60 W.
one option would be to wire the small bulbs to the fog light switch, at least they'd be functional. Also, good suggestion in the comments to use a relay instead of direct connection to the switch.
you are going to melt the wires going to your pressure switch. you have them tie wrapped to the discharge line for the ac compressor. don't ask me how i know this. but good video on the light install
Actually I don't think the spring attaches to the trim ring, there should be a specific hole for it in the bucket. That way you can replace the bulb when everything is assembled.
Normally, I think you would be right on that thought. But these trim rings only had two screws, so he would need the spring to hold the third side securely
Lucky please make Freiburger do something about that front bumper. I like the paint as is but that bent bumper gets under my skin. find a decent straight one doesn't have to be perfect chrome just straight
Remove the headlight bezels. If you want to get deep into it , 66 chevelles have a self contained bracket that holds both lights and bolts to the core support. Its a little tricky , but it can be removed with the grille in. If you buy replacement adjusters , remove 1 of your originals and make sure the new ones are identical. For years the aftermarket ones did not fit the square holes in the bracket. Its pretty self explanatory once you get into it.
Did anybody else notice that the first bucket installed on the driver's side was stamped RL for right lower? Maybe both lowers were stamped the same way?
I saw something similar on an old 70s Trans Am while I was in a wrecking yard a few years ago. My best guess was a battery/ignition shut off switch. Maybe for extra security. I have no idea if that was actually a thing back in the day though.
To this day, i dont know what is the key+lock thing in front of the driver's side headlamp for. Extra security? Battery cutoff? EDIT: huh. Apprently whatever it was used for, it isnt hooked up now. That only makes me wonder more.
OK YOU MADE THE SAME MISTAKE I DID. The old factory harness does not carry enough voltage through the switch to fully acheive the full potintail of the h4 bulbs..The fix is using the factory harness to flip 30amp relays straight to the battery....you would not beleive the difference and puts far less stress on your healight switch!
