i've never made a mistake ever. not once. so I couldn't tell you. 😂 jk. Not one of your tips here, but the first time I used RU-vid I didn't realize that the video would need to process after uploading so I would just publish it immediately at 360p LOL.
Thanks for the tips, Matti! As a total beginner, my question is: should you use auto ISO or keep it at base and adjust exposure only with ND filters/aperture outdoors? (Thinking of using manual ISO when shooting something stationary indoors, auto ISO when outdoors)
Hey Matti, don't forget to let us beginners know that 24 frames per second is best only in certain countries. It will get you all kinds of horrible light flickering in probably more countries than it won't, depending on the electricity supply where you are. I learnt that the hard way, as I assumed what the RU-vidrs I was watching said was universally true, rather than just true for certain countries. My footage looked SHOCKING, especially when shooting in higher frame rates like 120fps (I should have been using 100fps indoors) In countries like here in Australia, 25 fps is the way to go. Virtually the same as 24 as far as the motion blur you get etc, but it will sync with artificial lights. For people who learn this craft predominantly from RU-vid (as I did), this is an important detail to know!
In PAL countries this is sometimes a problem yes. For 120p especially. For 24p you can adjust your shutterspeed. I live in the Netherlands and never had a problem shooting 24p at 180° shutter angle. I did have those problems sometimes shooting 30p and especially 120p with tl lighting in big conference halls.
@@davids At 24fps and 180° shutter angle, I've found the flicker is less obvious, but still present. But as you've said, it seems tweaking the shutter speed can fix that. But the way I see it, there's no need to be fiddling around with that when switching to 25fps in PAL regions fixes it with no obvious difference visually.
@@BrisbaneChannel You're right! Visually there is no difference. So for online it doesn't matter and for TV 25p is the only way. But I've also shot a documentary that was screened in local cinemas. Then 24p is the way to go. It all depends on where and how your work is displayed.
I certainly made all of those mistake when I started making videos here on RU-vid. But the one that hit me harder is definitely the heavy Color grading
Great set of guidelines. All of them. I just published my 7th video and I plan to work on the shallow depth of field. I recently changed to a better camera that tracks focus much better so I don't have to use a broad depth of field any more. I'm aware of the other factors and focus hard on them. The story also hits hard. I focus a lot on that but it's always, always great to be reminded yet again.
I'd argue that an aperture with shallow depth of field isn't the most cinematic, because I find myself at f5.6 - f8 a lot of the time in my work. If a film has correct exposure on every shot, shot variety, good color to fit the mood of the scene, and most importantly, tells a story through SOUND, the film will feel cinematic.
Or, and, it just should not be "set in stone", it depends on how far is your background, if there is any object behind that tells a part of the story, so out of focus but not "too" out of focus, etc etc
@@RockyRobotTheMagicMaker It’s a silly statement regardless of who you’re giving the advice to. No professional would take that seriously and he shouldn’t advise such a statement to a fresh brain - he’s setting newbies up for failure with that. His advise is actually what is mentioned as a mistake by professional filmmakers… so, not sure what type of filmmaking he’s talking about. And he talks like he’s speaking straight facts lol, huge turn-away for me. Whoever takes that advise will learn on their own I guess. Not their fault, it’s a process.
WAIT I thought that 30 FPS at a shutter speed of 60 is indistinguishable from 24 FPS at a shutter speed of 48. And for RU-vid tubing, isn’t it easier to work in increments of 30 FPS because it would be compatible with all display devices, so no need for judder compensation?
Every time I see new cameras in ads I'm like, "You have to have these.". But then I realize what others are getting with my Sony Alpha 6300 and I don't even begin to get everything out of my recordings. Now, after two years, I switched my camera from 60Mbit to 100Mbit to get everything out. It's just filming filming filming which takes practice and of course learning from mistakes.
Oh come on! Not using motion grahics a mistake beginner filmmakers make? You can't be serious. You're just making that up because morion array is the sponsor. In reality not every film needs motion graphics. I'm tottaly fine with RU-vidrs doing sponsered bits, but to say not using your sponsor's product is a beginner mistake is really taking it a step too far. Other than that, love your work ;)
What's wrong with me, I never thought this day would ever come but… I disagree with Matti. 1. Shoot with log UNLESS YOU ARE SHOOTING 8 BIT (which a beginner might actually be doing) 2. You don't need to shoot everything wide open, you should actually learn how to work with different apertures. There are other ways to separate your subject from the background such as using color contrast and distance. Other than than, great video as usual!
Haha, I've done voice overs with a Rode VideoMic Pro that way before 😅 I'm thankful for having a Shure MV7 now, but it worked when I couldn't afford extra audio gear!
My a7siii looks AMAZING straight out of camera for on the go shoots that just need to look natural for real estate and commercials. For High Budget videos I say definitely shoot flat!
Great video mate! I think interior lighting is what I'm afraid. All my walk arounds have been in nature or outdoors so far! ugh! I will have the get lighting sorted for winter!
It's whatever sells, I use a $170 Akaso and selling more product than my gear freak pals. Of course I charge a lot less and my quality is about 60% of what they can do, but I am doing it.
Learn from the best the masters (Jack Cardiff, Doug Slocombe, Brendan J. Stafford and many others) Beginning middle and end but not in that order (Jean Luc Goddard).
First of all, nice hat! Would you suggest to shoot in log even with 8bit files? I have a Sony a6500, I've tried sLog3, converted with the colour space transform in Davinci Resolve and it was very very noisy..
Based on experience, it usually happens when you don't overexpose enough. I make sure that the light meter reads +2.0 minimum nowadays in Log to avoid the noise in the blacks. Also, the older gen Sony cams seem to do better with SLog2.
@@itsjoseperez thanks for your answer. When exposing, would you meter for the shadows in the frame or for what the subject? Let me explain, if you are in a dark Room, with a subject light by a video light but there is a window where sun come directly in, is very possible that that area will be already over exposed by 2+stops, but the rest of the frame doesn't look overexposed; would you meter for the darker part of the room, for the subject or for the bright part of the room (real highlights of the frame). I hope it makes sense
If it's a high contrast situation, splitting the difference between the darkest and brightest parts would be the safe bet. I always prioritize the shadows though to avoid the noise. Spot metering closer to the darker side. But since it's log, highlights can be easily recovered when blown out. Just use a mask to tweak it further if need be.
These filmmaking RU-vidrs trying bankrupt everybody haha. I think I'll make a proper beginners guide. You can start with a £50 lens and make it look good... (usually love the videos, and there's some great advice in this one too.)
Speaking of getting your audio better. How do you keep your mic from picking up autofocus motors? I’ve tried using different mics but always hear it. I know they make STM lenses to help but I always see these RU-vidrs using regular lenses and I never hear it. Something in post I’m missing? Any help would be great.
The biggest mistake many American RU-vidrs make is assuming the USA is the centre of the universe. In many countries (71 in fact including Europe) shooting at 24 FPS under artificial light results in flicker. Approximately 40 countries use 60 Hz, incl USA; the rest use 50Hz. Lights powered by generators may have a higher or lower rate. Smarter to advise filmmakers to check their local frequency and set FPS rate accordingly. Here in Australia where electricity frequency is 50 Hz, I set my FPS rate to 25, or 100/200 for slow-mo.
I definitely have issues with colour grading it doesn’t help when I’m partially colour blind does anyone know if there’s accessibility settings on any of the Adobe software?
Shallow depth of field is not cinematic and it's definitely not a good advice for beginners. Look at ANY Hollywood movie the depth of field is quite deep most of the time. A shallow depth of field is terrible for beginners because nothing will be in focus.
I think you answered your own question, look up how to get perfect exposure for video using false color. Mark Bone recently put out a good video about using external monitors(there’s some good ones in the $200 range$ like the Osee t5 for example).
I think my biggest problem in general, not just in filmmaking or photography is trying to over do EVERYTHING, whether its color, or movement or editing or just freaking making dinner...I have these grandiose ideas that frustrate the hell out of me...KISS...KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!
shoot wide open all the time, don't think so, watch a movie and see how at least 50 % everything is in focus, depth of field isn't cinematic all the time ahahahah
2:01 No no no! I have to disagree with shooting everything wide open all of the time. That is a beginner mistake in itself. Sure Bokeh looks nice, but not in every scene. You've got to use it for a reason, not 'just because'. Sometimes I want a small depth of field, so I use a smaller aperture to 'set the scene'. Watch some movies by your favorite DPs, and notice how the aperture isn't wide open all the time.
@@zelkuth Remember this video is aimed at beginners. "Shoot everything wide open" is something I see plainly misused and is terrible advice in a blanket statement. Don't get me wrong, I use it a lot, but StudioBinder covers it better here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZGNUqNFfD8M.html
@@psynuxx ahhhh... you are right. It totally skipped my mind who this video is addressed to.But hey, if you wanna "look" cool its not a bad advise hahaha. (not all you tubers will shoot movies. Studio Binder rocks!)
Yep. I agree, in fact, I thought it was going to be an example too. With aperture wide open, if you're a youtuber and filming yourself, you might only have your chin or nose in focus, let alone if you use autofocus and it misses but you cant tell on the small screen. Those things can't be fixed in post. "I bought a lens that opens up to f1.7, and I'm gonna use it goddamnit!" seems to be too common.
I learned at the beginning of the year my vlogs were pointless. Even though there was some great footage in there over the last 3 years, nobody is coming to watch my videos in Alaska. I started giving more meaning in the title and in the content without changing much else and recently I have been quadrupling views
