For aluminium, try metholated spirits (or rubbing alcohol, as we call it where I live) as a cutting fluid. It prevents edge build-up, evaporates quickly, and leaves no waxy residue like WD40. I've never used kerosene, but it does make sense that it would work. From using it for other things, though, I'd think it would leave some sort of residue. But if it slows or prevents rust, so much the better. I enjoy your channel, by the way. Thank you for sharing.
Methylated spirits are usually denatured ethanol, whereas rubbing alcohol is usually just isopropyl alcohol(potentially scented in some places). Will work just the same, Methylated spirits typically smell horrible in places where they're consumed as alcohol.
I don't know if you watch Rustinox, but he recently turned me on to glue bottles? I had not heard of them. It's an oil can with a brush built in to the end. When you squeeze the trigger, oil does not shoot out. Instead it flows right onto the bristles. Very clean setup, one-handed oiling.
Great video. I love it how it was concise and to the point, unlike some content creators that want to tell you their life story, about their pets, etc.. Subscribed.
Exactly don't use WD-40 as all that stuff does is cool the bit a little, stuff in not a lubricant as opposed to actual oil coolant mixes or straight oil. If you don't wanna use a pump just mount the tank high and let gravity and a ball valve do the rest.
Very good ideas. The best ones I did for mine were 3 axis magnetic DRO 30 inch 50 lbs gas spring to help lift the head. It is now pretty easy A collar to lock the top of the spindle instead of the spanner. See the one LMS sells Replace the table locking lever on the front with a large thumb screw. It snapped when it got bound up while moving the table
Zu deinem zweiten Tipp mit den Einlegeleisten für den T-Nutentisch: Magnetklebeband und Faltenbalg sind günstig, leicht zu montieren und super leicht zu säubern und arbeiten mit ihrer leichten Gewichtsklasse dem Spänefang zu. Funktioniert an meiner herrlich.
G’day one good thing that I learnt in plastics we used to use car X-cut past just on a rag but you can use very fine wet and dry paper. Good luck John PS it’s the cutting compound that you would use on cars.
Zu deinem ersten Tipp mit der Feder nach dem Handrad: Die Feder auf die andere Seite des Handrades zu machen ist konstruktiv, eher schlecht, da du ja bei dem automatischen Vorschub rotierende Kräfte hast. Mit der Feder an der Position ist gesichert, das du diese Handrad-Unwucht als Schwingungen nicht auf die ganze Maschine bis zum Werkstück weitergeben wirst. Sondern nur dann per Hand arbeiten sollst, wenn du gegen die Feder arbeitest.
Make your own powerfeed its easy and cheap, I used a 24v wiper motor $70 and bought a cheap speed controller $25 - $30 and used my 24v battery charger, works great
Putting a magnetic collar around the Allen wrench is a safer (and easier) choice. If you snap off the M10 bolt where you weakened it by drilling it out, you are going to have a rough time getting the stub removed.
Those shoes looked like Crocs! Very Classy! Have you considered using an old poison spray pack to put coolant on the part. Just need to be able to pump it up between jobs and you should be able to get a fine mist right where you need it. I personally have not tried this yet but I have been thinking it is a cheap way to use minimal coolant without resorting to compressor and commercial kits. By the way I have purchased myself a mill. It is a Metex DM45 and will definitely be steal...I mean using some of your ideas. Keep up the good work!
Great vid, some fantastic tips, I'm looking to upgrade from the seig SX2, I had lusted after the SX3, but after seeing yours, and a few others, I'm now thinking I'll get the sx2.7, have you seen the upgrades available from the Little Machine Shop?, they're a good mob to deal with, postage to Oz sucks though. They also sell separate clutches for the power feed units, I'm going to convert mine over when I get the bigger mill, power feed's are a must have for us old farts;). Thanks for the tips, Scott.
I doubt it. Transparent ABS (Strickly speaking MABS) is something of a specialized material and fairly expensive. Judging by what the plastic was salvaged from I'd say its more likely to be polycarbonate or polystyrene. I've been in the plastic industry for 32 years the last 15 or so as a process engineer. Transparent ABS is something that just doesn't come up hardly ever from a production and design standpoint. At least in the portion of the industry I work in.
Thank you for all the tips. I wonder why not use plumbing PTFE tape on the drain joint, rather than silicone grease ? Best wishes from a Brit/Ozzie in Japan ! [ Sieg SC4 lathe; SX2P mill coming shortly. X2.7L mills not available in Japan, unfortunately. ]
With the fixed speed motor I have and the belt pulleys, I can't drop the rpm low enough to cut threads under power. I would change the motor but this is the first time in almost a year that I've had to cut threads this way so it's just easier to spin the chuck manually. The sherline I have has a pretty similar method to this.
@@artisanmakes Me too....I have an old 1930 Colchester Bantam lathe and the chuck screws on so reversing is not an option......for screwcutting I made a handle that plugs in the end of the spindle and makes possible reversing the spindle at the end of each screw pass....... many times I just wind the spindle by hand for small or short threads and internal ones.......the handle is removed for normal turning.
@@artisanmakes Do you mean because it is too fast and the risk of crashing the chuck is too high? Turn the threading tool upside down and run the lathe backwards. That way the tool runs off the end of the stock, rather than into the chuck.
Yes, with the current pulley ratios I have the lowest speed I can drop the spindle down to is about 400rpm. And unfortunately the motor won't reverse. I would change the motor out if I cut threads more often. Cheers
10:48 du benutzt sicher einen Zyklonabscheider für die Späne, du weißt ja, das scharfe Aluminium-Späne dir den Beutel zerschneiden können und bis in den Motor rein einen Schaden anrichten können.
now that you have both, which one would you buy first: lathe or mill ? I will be mostly drilling the 23 mm hole in the rectangular aluminium block, and a few smaller holes in the corners, which I can handle with my drill press. but that large 23 mm hole is a tough one to make in batches, and I don;t feel safe doing it on the drill press either. I clamped it as hard as you can imagine, and the drill press is still vibrating like mad, and the table is bending slightly downwards from the force, and that also makes the hole slightly out of perfectly parallel to the block's walls. unfortunately I can't afford 2 machines, and I need to wait maybe a year to buy another machine. your advice would be greatly appreciated
Great tips mate. I’ve ordered the Sieg SX2.7 and should be here next week. I was going start building a stand for it. What height did you build your stand ?
Not sure how other people prefer it, but I like my mill and lathe table to be a little higher than most. The mill table is about 1m high. It just means I don't have to lean over as much when looking at the table.
I bought this from a company called Ausee off eBay. I looked into the X2L mill but ultimately settled on this due to the larger table and fixed column. I'm not too familiar with the x2D but I have seen quite a few upgrades for them.
With the motor I have I can't drop the lathe rpm low enough to cut threads. Not a big issue since this is the first time I've had to cut threads on the lathe in almost a year.
Another fascinating video, well laid out and narrated, always good to see other peoples work, I have the next size down mill, and have done a few mods myself, unfortunately it was damaged in our garage fire and I had to rebuild it, this is the video if you would be interested ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-clPzFCg6Fas.html Regards Nigel.
I don't see why not, it's fitted with the dro and the worm gear allows me to make much finer adjustments than I can by moving the head. It's certainly rigid enough to do so.
Cheers, this one is a bed mill and I do move the head for most stuff, however having a dro on the quill which I can set origins is an advantage to me. Either way I still have to use the quill lock to unlock the quill for drilling, and to be honest, drilling is probably 80% of what I use the mill for.
