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Just a note on the 3x3 water areas, you don't have to "loose" this area, you can put platforms in the water and then put your Farms/Foresters ontop of them. In the end they don't take up that much more space than they did previously, just takes a small bit of thinking to use that area for something else.
I don't use barriers, i just deflect the Red water to somewhere else (the edge of the map) with flood gates, is way easier and cheaper. You just need dinamite and wood.
@@itszeeeti i do use it, i create an aquaduct and put a bunch of waterweels on it, that is for permanent bad water sources. For redfloods i just make a multy step watergate system to dicerge the current, and treat those seasons like normal dry seasons.
@@Ilovepoopin exactly, later in the game Bad Tides become just better droughts, because they are shorter and still give you power. (If you survive until late game, in hard mode is really dificilt)
@@demris15 at least for now. Who knows what future updates will do to BW. I would like to be able to do more stuff with it. And to be able to have maps without it in the first place.
Hope they will add floodgate automation before they release update 5. If you have to rely on manually managing floodgates, you will have to always watch your colony and pause the game every time you leave the PC because of the risk of your colony dieing due to a badtide. Im have no problem spending a few beavers on controlling flood gates.
for the badtide what I do is build gates around the water source leaving space to the sides so it will drain out of the map and it will be like another dry season. in the late game I make a filtration system with pumps.
This is the conclusion I came to as well, it would take an enormous amount of metal among other resources but that means you could at least use the terrible badtides to some degree via keeping the main water reservoir topped up rather than x-amount of days of 100% evaporation. Plus it's kinda cute for my story about how the town decided to try and clear the pollution left by the 'hoomans' so other towns downstream wouldn't get hit with it.
4:25 Thank you for explaining this. I really wasn’t 100% sure if beavers walking on contaminated ground was dangerous. This will have a huge effect on my strategy!
I found a guy that use an other way to do this by doing a system that block badwater and redirects it to the void. So you still have water to irrigate your fields and bad water is never coming. But it requires tnt
I played this landscape too. What I did was deflect the bad water up on the opposite bank with many levies and floodgates etc. Also created a large dam upstream so the river bed never dries up, and also dynamited it deeper. When you do that though, always design so that all the bad water can flush away and doesn't become trapped. As another tip, if you don't have a herbalist but your beavers get contaminated, just create a new district center and send those beavers there. That way they can't contaminate the rest of your beavers and they'll eventually die of thirst or starve. Easy, but cruel solution. Hey it's just a game. Love your videos, well done on breaking 1k subscribers.
That's a very good tip! I should do something like that. That is a very cruel way to get rid of condeminated Beavers. As you said, it's a very efficient way but a very sad way also. Thanks man 😊
Starting to feel like the barriers are better used to surround things you want to protect instead of bordering the river. Once I've properly irrigated land away from the river and gotten trees and crops going, badtides actually become better than droughts because they at least keep powering waterwheels.
@@itszeeeti Nah, just build enough storage that your tanks and warehouses are ALMOST full before it hits and you're fine. Best part about badtides is that your waterwheels keep turning. Also note your water pumps DO keep working during badtide until the water is completely polluted, so as long as you're not on the verge of starvation or dehydration, the first badtide is actually a blessing, especially since badtide duration is a several steps shorter than drought duration. Note also that in most cases pollution radius is shorter than max hydration radius, so if you can note the area where the green reaches but the red doesn't, you can plant stuff in that band of safe area and just treat it like a shorter drought. It's only a REAL problem if you let your beavers step into it. Then they're useless for their entire lifespan without medicine.
Thank you ItsZeeti for all the helpful information, I'm about to start a new settlement with Folktails on the canyon map but have found the new update absolutely daunting to say the least.
@@itszeeeti Thank you for the well wishing but tragically I wind up consistently with cycle 4 as a badtide and every second cycle thereafter. Infuriating to say the least considering no matter how much I rush I just can't get the diversion dam built fast enough.
@@rustyhowe3907 You may want to concentrate on moving the farms (food and tree) to more inland using the fluid dump and 3x3 method early on. I am aware with the change to dynamite, that it would be a challenge to do this as soon as cycle 4. For me cycle 6 is the earliest dynamite time.
@@pinkluver7715 Thank you for the helpful tips, unfortunately I got absolutely obliterated on that new save file so will try these tips you offered for next time. I was two levees away from completing the diversion floodgates to direct the bad tide off the map when I completely lost the game with a last badtide that took out my last 5 beavers.
Note, the 3x3 works just as well with one of the side spaces still intact. You can use it as a cubby for your fluid dump and save that extra block of space. Also, with the new 3D water physics, you might want to make that a 2 block deep grid, because total water now has more of an effect than it used to.
@@itszeeeti also, I had just started a timberborn run and was just getting to the point where I needed to expand my available farming/logging area. If I hadn't seen your video I would have tried the one block hole method, been frustrated when it didn't work, and been stumped for a bit trying to figure out a new way to expand my available farming/logging area.
1) the eaiser answer is to just use floodgates right at the water source to turn badtides into normal droughts and play as usual. 2) i find this update ends up making the water dump even more powerful, not less. I hate the water dump, i refuse to wven research it. But now it seems like its become a necessity. It was already way too OP and now people are saying its less? No, no, it is even more OP now. I want to have to solve the problems by terraforming, like a real beaver, i hate that you can make water anywhere you can path too. Its so broken. Anyway ill still be trying to win hard mode without ever using the water dump, but we'll see how that goes
1. That definitely the easiest way to stop badwater but i feel like its cheating. Another viewer had idea to have automatic floodgates and have few beavers working there. I like that solution. 2. Youre not going to survive without waterdump. Create a lot of waterpaths with dynamits and you should be fine.
Why don't you create a floodgate at the start with a separate runoff you can use during a Badtide? This way you can still store your water as normal and the badwater should bend off before it reaches your stored water
true, i even think its kind of breaking the badtide mechanic, since its quickly become a non issue once you finished your badwater evacuation. I usually deal with 1 badwater season tops
the problem with the barriers is that they block all the water, not just the badwater. i had to destroy a barrier system once because it wasn't getting water in regular wet season either
I've been using the upper badwater river as a power source (it has lots of waterwheels in it), but you're pumping the badwater out. You're clearly further ahead of me, so can I ask what it is you do with that water?
2:49, should be moving your pumps to directly above the river. Yes it's quite a few platforms but if you're short on wood production (like say VERY start of the game) you can just shove in a medium WH for much cheaper than the platforms and on IT playthroughs you can use the medium stockpile instead which is ironically even cheaper. Long term you should be looking to create a line of levies along the river bank with at least 1 tile gap between (better to do 3 for slowing water evaporation) and shove the barriers inside the gap instead. Won't matter about the platforms at that point since you should have enough wood for it if your able to build so many levies.
@@itszeeeti If you want some more then here's some, you can also line ditch you make behind the levies with a path to get the beavers wet and some shafts to pass power around to awkward places. If you rip out the land where you want to put the path in the ditch and put the shafts there then you'll have a nice looking path that hides the shafts and room to place stairs anywhere to the platforms above the barriers. For the IT you can also shove those huge 3x3 metal platforms in the corners of the number cruncher to get back some building space. You may have missed it (or I may have forgotten seeing it in the vid if you mentioned it there) but bad water provides double the power too.
I have a chamber I put a lot of bad water pumps and then when the bad water comes I can just open the chamber up and then after when the good water comes I can just open both sides a let it in my big lake
i thought you an make cure from collecting badwater and processing in some new buildings and making curing pods and I thought they removed Dandelions and medicines in update 5
That's how it was in earlier version of Update 5. Right now that's how it works for Iron Teeth, for Folktails you need dandelions, berries and the new building
@@itszeeeti i hope they come back i dont know why they cant just lower consumption. it would amazing if we could construct canals or pipes that allowed for better planning
one of few things I hate in the experimental is, in fact, the irrigation system.. why should it be 3x3...?? I mean, when I try to terraform the land, not neccessarily for farms or forests but merely terraform, the irrigated area is way smaller than the actual 3x3... even when I made a huge dam by blocking a huge area of water, the land area that has been irrigated is smaller than my dedicated-potato inland farm... I mean, wat de hekk, developer...?
It’s a further extension towards mitigating levee cheese. This whole thing started because players would just lay down 4 levees then fill the inside with water to reap the benefits of a massive irrigated land. The devs didn’t like that and first shut down the idea of levees by requiring water contact with land. This extension takes that idea further by correlating how much water is contacting how much land to determine the irrigation area. All to stop player cheese and have an irrigation system that makes sense.
@@itszeeeti a 1x1 hole is a lot easier to maintain as both its volume and rate of evaporation are less than a 3x3 lake. There’s also the logistics of just being larger, a 1x1 hole with a water dump fits nearly anywhere, a lake is a bit more disruptive (mostly matters when surface area is limited). While those are all ways it modifies the game challenge, ultimately I think it comes down to more believable irrigation system. The cheesy exploits just exposed how flawed the basic system was at representing irrigation which honestly stifled creativity. The solution was always: build a levee box with a water dump and problem solved (completely invalidated a building). When patched, this evolved into blowing up a square and filling it up. Maybe this is only in the short term as people figure out the system but we at least get to see people build proper irrigation channels, lakes, etc to solve dry land.
@@miot22 I'm fine with making lakes, I always make a 5x5 hole for the folktail's monument (fountain of joy) either way... but, even that 5x5 hole irrigate smaller area compared to 3x3... dev said that they already fixed this issue, but I don't see the changes...