B! I am super honored that you put my handle on a saw (and on video). I would hate to have it fail during a race, so I won't be offended at all if you take it off. I designed it soft to mimic the elasto-start from Stihl, I am super excited if you think it helps. For those who are curious, it's Overture TPU 95A printed on an Ender 3. I have been pretty mean to mine, havent broken one yet, that TPU is way tougher than I could have imagined. I have them installed on a J-red 80 and an 056 mag II. I have a 281 as well that pulls like his, that gets one next.
Hi, for me 7 pins on 80 plus cc saws is better when I fall big trees cause doesn't get stuck easily and is more important to finish my cut and run safely than do it quicker...then if I'm cleaning logs from branches I prefer switching on a 50/60 cc with 8 pins on it to get more chain inertia, so is less likely to kickback if I touch something with the top of the bar tip...if I wrote something wrong forgive me, I'm italian 😂 anyway thats how I work generally, but I like to share my knowledge and watch others to learn their knowledge, have a good one
Exactly the results I'd expect👍🏻 limbing or big saw small wood, I tend to like 8 pin. Most everything else, 7 pin. Haven't tried a 9 or 10 pin rim yet!
Before I wised up and switched to Husky I used to cut timber with 066 mags for a few years and they came with a 9 pin back then and I used to drop them to 8s and I always thought they felt so much better but I'm not sure if they actually cut better. Those were the only saws I ever messed with the sprockets much. Once the 385xp fell into my hands and Stihl started making those saws ending in 1 I moved from Germany to Sweden and still reside there...lol
Technique in each setup is where it’s at!!! Try taking two or three stroke’s off your rakes until you are just too grabby…. Then resharpen or take 3strokes off of each cuttter…. That’s how I find my most “race ready cutting speed! Try doing the top…, 3/4 like 9 o’clock plunge in then down and up!! Technique
Higher the gearing lower the Torque, Lower the gearing higher the Torque. It's all about finding that sweet spot for the application. Hard wood , lower gearing more Torque, soft wood higher gearing more speed.
I think the 7 pin is more forgiving of operator input. When your skills mature I think you will want the 8. As far as how hard to push it , it's no different than sawing planks on a table saw. You learn how much you can get away with. I really enjoy your videos.
Hi Boedy. I am a new subscriber. I am a Pioneer “P series” enthusiast, and I have several in my collection. I am enjoying your videos, you are a talented and funny guy. Keep it up.
8 will always be faster as long as you have the power. If you are under powered or over bared you will slow it down from lack of power. It’s simple gearing just like changing gearing on a bike.
I just dropped one of those handles in the mail last night to you. It's probably going to be a little stiffer than that one. Let me know if you want any more of them, they are for snowblowers, and I don't think you have many of those down there. I put a couple more little items in the package you will probably like as well. I hope it gets there in a reasonable amount of time.
Cajun built an amazing saw that don’t care what sprocket is mounted!! That’s a strong strong runner!! Everyone has a personal preference on how they like a machine to feel. I think more time with that saw and your opinion might change about the 8 pin. I tune a little differently when I mount bigger gears. Fatter for bigger lol.
It's definitely a great saw. I've gotta get used to trusting the chain more. Especially in the upcuts. I'll work on it. In small soft wood at races, I would DEFINITELY run the 8 pin and I'll be ordering a 9 and 10 pin to try out as well.
Also I noticed when your paying attention to your rpm gauge compared to when your not . Your cutting faster watching that rpm gauge then when your just " feeling the saw "
I've been curious for a while about throwing a 620 clutch drum on my 590 and running an 8 pin on her, maybe I'd get some extra speed out if it and be able to run my 72dl chains on that echo bar I never use.
8 Pin and Use The Weight of The Saw To Do The Work Maybe Even Use a Longer Bar and Harvester Chain 😎Dont Need To Push If Your Chain is Sharp and Rakers Filed Correctly Cajun Built a Screaming Husqvarna 😊❤️😊
With your long bars… don’t try to drive your dogs and twist up…. Make that top cut for your face…. Then you walk to the center and 6-8”’s below that line in the tree flip your saw horizontal and with the back 1/2 of your bar cut horizontally up towards your top cut from your center in 3” inches then take your running saw up into that corner on your left side… by the time your into your corner area you’ll be able to half moon your front section up at that right side corner.,, then make your left corner and then you go look at how many more inches you need.., use the basic geometry until it’s more and more and more natural feeling!!!! 😉👍
I'd take the speed of the 8 for limbing but the torque all day long for bucking. I mean that's what's so fascinating when you first run an XP, that speed is very welcome but if it comes at a cost of power, it better be well balanced.
What about trying a skip and eight pin? I find that my 32-in bar on my dolmar with an eight pin and skip chain seems to cut faster than my full house 25 in
8's are faster, 7's transfer torque better. The 661's and 500i's have enough umph that I run 8 pin on everything for production falling, the only noticable difference is if you stop in a cut, you can restart with a 7 pin, with an 8 you have to back out of the cut a little, get the chain moving and then hog back in
@@Limpmode_ maybe Susan Wojchiki should worry more about running youtube side of things rather than shutting folks down for their political beliefs, and being a cancel culture libtard!
Yeah, the saw is plenty powerful, but big oak is big oak. It'll make anything feel slow. Made my 592 feel slow too. I had an 8 pin on it and though I should have been running a 7, so I switched it back.
I run 8 on all my 28" to 36" bars cut hard wood everyday. My 585 don't care if it's 10 pin 36"full comp .130 on rakers. Lower rakers you can put 50lbs pressure and not stop it!
I'm cutting a LOT of 8-16" hardwoods doing thinning. I like the 8 pin on a 60cc saw. Let the saw eat for bucking and limbing is ridiculously fast. Put it in poplar and it puts a huge smile on your face. If I know i'm going to do bigger wood that day it takes seconds to swap back to the 7.
I would like to see the 8 pin vs 7 pin in poplar or pine. I have live oaks , and pine by me. So I get it, 7 is probably better all around. Very nice saw Cajun.