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Great video as usual. The winter temperatures here in Montana often dip well below zero. While I store my tractor indoors, it's not heated. Even with glow plugs my L3560 starts SO much easier after an hour or two plugged in to the block heater. FYI. About 20 air miles from my house on Rogers Pass is a sign that says it saw the lowest temperature in the lower 48. Minus 70º F. It's not unusual for it to get down to the minus 20s or even minus 30s here. Sometimes it gets so cold the lawyers and politicians have their hands in their own pockets!
I had a1984 Ford truck that I bought at a dealership used. It didn't drive properly. Pulled hard to the right. I took it to the dealer for an alignment. $900 later, the truck still pulled to the right. The service dept manager said to fix it they would have to bend the swing arms. I said that's not happening. He said a bit of pull was required for safety so if you fell asleep at the wheel, you would not keep going down the road. What a load of 🐂💩. I then took it to a frame shop. Told them what the dealer had told me. They took a look and 5 minutes later their service tec called me out to the truck. He told me to get 2 new front tires. They were different sized. the size on the tires was the same, but different manufactures. These were the tires on the truck when I bought it. I went back to the dealer, but could not get my money back. Haven't done business with them again.
The tech working on your truck should know how a vehicle should drive , along with the manager! Pure negligence on their part. I worked at a Ford dealership for 15 years as a service tech! Most of us knew Fords inside out and usually knew what was wrong on the test drive! I’ve seen many many noobs coming into the automotive field that barely knew how to change oil! We all have to start somewhere but a dealership should be training people!
Just bought a New Holland Workmaster. I had an old tractor so already had a standard rear blade, bush hog, and rake. But I wanted a loader which I couldn’t get for my old tractor. New tractor with new loader, done, right? Thankfully I had a young honest sales rep. He recommended I get the third function. I had no idea how important that was. I didn’t know I really wanted a grapple. Man, game changer. I’ve had the new tractor three weeks and in that time I’ve probably used the grapple 10-12 hours. All these years of dragging things around. No more. My neighbor had a box blade and I had used it enough to know I wanted one. By the way NH has skid steer quick connects on the loader. I also got a quick hitch. Yeah I could do without it but as inexpensive as they are, why? Tires filled, check! Wheel weights, check!
I thought I would regret not getting a backhoe, but I couldn't justify the expense. I haven't missed it, yet. If I do run across the need, a local tool rental will be the answer. My dealer included fluid filling the tires as standard delivery prep, no extra cost.
BLOCK HEATER I have a 1025R in southern Illinois last year I could not start my tractor for about two weeks even with putting a heat tape wrapped around the block and a couple heat lamps on it under a tarp it was so cold. I had my diesel treatment in so it will not go up. And it still did not want to start. And last year was extreme cold. I have my block heater and now it is very handy since I have installed a Curtis cab and want the heater for the cab available when I start it up I don’t have to sit there and wait for it to warm up for 10 minutes. I find that it saves me time and fuel warm and ready to go I also installed a trickle charger everything goes to one plug. Keep that battery warm through the cold months save you having to buy a battery later. Prolongs the life of your battery. I really enjoy your channel I wish you the best in the world have a great year.
Everyone is always worried about what color tractor should they buy. Making sure you buy the right options/ attachments is a way more important question.
I agree. Plus most fail to realize a good dealer for support is worth more than the color. It can be a great machine but they all break down and need service eventually and without good parts and service support it can be a worthless machine.
Definitely get all the hydraulic outlets that you can. They relatively cheap when ordering new. Get as much ballast as you can get on the tractor. If your going to be using the tractor for tillage and you've been using grandpa's 8n and want something to pull his implements get the top link draft control option (JD don't offer it on 1 - 4 series and standard above)
Really great recommendations Courtney. I have a Bobcat CT5558 with a factory cab with all the bells and whistles. The only option I don’t have is a mid point PTO. To date, I seen the want or need for the mid-point PTO. Having worked with open station tractors, articulated forklifts, and skid steers, I knew I wanted to be warm and dry up here in Montana. I wasn’t disappointed.
Some great advice in here Courtney. Especially the additional hydraulics - much cheaper and best done at the Dealer before you get the tractor. Thanks for sharing some good advice!
I store my tractor outside and I'm in snow country. The block heater helps get the tractor started and warmed up quicker. As for the self levelling, I don't think you need it unless you have a business that requires unloading or loading pallets all the time. On tires, I had R1 Ag tires on my old tractor. My new tractor has R4 tires. I wish I had bought R1 tires. Traction is greatly reduced on the R4. The benefit of not making as much of a depression in my yard is not worth it. Courtney's advice is so true. I bought a new tractor and upgraded for all the reasons he said.
Great video as always. Where I live, block heaters seem to be standard from the dealership. I’m sure if you ordered a tractor, you could get one without. With our block heater, our tractor starts in the winter exactly like it does in the summer. But to me, the greatest benefit is that warm up time is reduced significantly. I can be plowing snow pretty quickly after starting the tractor.
KIOTI tractors sold at my dealership all come with pretty solid buckets and skid steer quick attach, and loaded tires on everything from the CK2610 and bigger.
Work as many attachments in to the financing of the tractor as you can. You may not be able to afford them later on. Also if you even remotely think you might use a optional function on the tractor get it. Better to have it and not need than to need and not have.
I bought a brand-new John dear tractor in 1978 and I did not get external hydraulics at the time I didn't know what they were. Several years later I started bailing hay and using that tractor as the rake tractor . Now obviously I had to retrofit external hydraulics onto and I never did like him they were expensive to handle just flop around it took them two weeks to put them on. I also did not order rear-wheel weights that I was fortunate enough to have a brother at work to the pipe yard and got me some 24-inch pipe with a six-inch wall thickness so I made my own weights. The interesting thing is I still use that same 950 tractor to rake hay today.
IMO, ordering a fully equipped tractor, regardless of whether you need all the options at the time, is like buying a stripped down pickup too save $$ up front or getting a loaded version. When you go too sell or trade, just like a loaded pickup, that tractor will be worth more. 😉
@@LedgemereHeritageFarm True enough. Me personally I find the more I use my tractor, a Ventrac, find that I can use more attachments as I get more proficient with it and its nice too have all the options on it already so I dont have to go back and add things later.
There’s probably just one thing I should have had done when buying my BX2380 and that’s getting remotes at the rear, I have a 3rd function at the front for my grapple but a set at the rear would have given me the opportunity to use it for a hydraulic top link 🤷🏼♂️. Great video as usual Courtney 🙋🏼♂️👍🏻🙂
Perfect timing on this vid. Im driving my dealer crazy as my initial oder has morphed to include almost all of these in your vid (did it without seeing this vid so it confirms the choices and I feel better about it)…. Went Kubota 6060 to a 7060… then switched up to 12speed (larger hyd pump).. added all 3 hydraulic options and remotes…then switched up to a cab model (comfort is a priority!!!)… and then… and then… lol. In the course of a week the budget swelled but didnt bust… and I dont regret it at all…. Thanks for this vid.!!
When I bought my tractor I got the third function up front but wish I would have ordered the additional spools in the back now it's $1,200 for two more spools,but they are easy to put on.
Funny, I just had the conversation with my father about self leveling loaders. We agreed that most users will be able to manually compensate, even with older controls with 2 levers.
I started working on an old propane open cab with a sickle mower. Was young and didn’t know any better. Worked on open cap tractors for all my life. My current tractor is a 3025e open cab and I am looking to go up to a 5065e cab tractor and basically upgrade with every part you mentioned. You hit it on the nail head about age. Comfort becomes much more important. Best wishes, 🚜
@@stevethiel5838 I looked at the 5075m but the $20k more price tag made my decision for me. I’m not a 5 days a week operator so I have to weigh the cost v the usage. But you are right. I would rather have the 5075 or 5090m if I find the extra $20k somewhere.
As far as putting fluid in rear tires spend the extra and put beet juice in stay away from calcium chloride. One small puncture, / pinhole valvecore leak will cause irreparable damage to the wheel itself. This is from an old Northeast Arkansas cotton and rice farmer....i remember when calcium chloride was our only choice ....
My family recently acquired a new 5045E; we looked at all the majors, and when I talked to the Case dealer, he didn't want to option the larger L555 on it, saying "it was too much for the tractor," when the New Holland dealer had the same loader (621TL) on the same tractor painted blue
I would DEFINITELY gotten pallet forks for my JD 1025r. I have bucket fork and use them all the time. I would NOT have gotten my backhoe - hard to hook up and super slow to use...
The Kubota LA854 loader on my tractor is self levelling. It seems fine to me though I don’t have pallet forks, yet. I can’t compare it to a non self levelling loader as I don’t have access to another tractor without a self levelling loader. In any case loaders are such a wonderful implement. Yesterday with the bucket I scraped away around six bucket loads of topsoil from one part of the farm to use on another. So much work done that would be really hard by hand. Getting extra hydraulic circuits installed by the dealer when purchasing a new tractor makes so much sense. You’d be saving cents on buying a new tractor without extra circuits and spending dollars to get them installed later.
I think a full disclaimer should be made about the self leveling loaders, it is completely application dependant. As you mentioned if you are doing lots of pallet fork work I see it being completely worth it, if not then perhaps you can save yourself the 2 to 3 grand and get other options that you may find useful or another implement.
If a loader bucket, wider than the wheel/tire width of your tractor is available, get it! Loaders the same width as the tractor make bucket work (especially snow removal) more difficult (when backing) and time consuming. *G.J. GET!... (Great Job GoodWorksTractors).
My dealer thought I wouldn't be able to control my FEL and included the self-leveling add-on. Well, I hated it. Couldn't get a full load of anything in the bucket. Found a guy who could remove the function and am thrilled.
Be advised that according to the TL90 MSDS, it is a calcium chloride based tire ballast with a small amount of beet pulp byproduct added to it to "reduce corrosion." I found out too late with the tires on the Farmall C.
Great video Courtney! My list of "I wish I had" is the air ride seat, and more than 1 rear remote. I'm adding the seat this spring but the 2nd remote is probably not going to happen.
The single point disconnect sucks. I have one on my 6430 and it leaks when the loader is off which is all summer during hay season. It was a used tractor, but never again.
When I got my 1025R I got the loader and forks with it. Since then I have added the front 3 function hydraulics and a grapple. For me and what I do the grapple is great. Wish I would have gotten that with the extra front hydraulics from the get go. Pretty good video. You covered a lot of issues. Thanks for sharing.
My most used add-on is my ballast weights next is the hooks, D-rings, and drawbar attachment on my bucket. Constantly need to attach a chain, strap, or rope to pick up things. Still waiting on my forks from JD. Backordered forever looks like.
I bought my tractor new in 2020. Did not come with loaded tires despite the brochure quoting weights with loaded tires. It cost me close to $500 to get the rear tires loaded on my 46hp tractor. I bought it to them. Also I wish I had looked into the third function. Have not had any starting issues even in cold weather, it's a Yanmar. Would like to find a good boxblade that doesn't break the bank. Ordered one, but cancelled the order after discovering 14-16 week lead time.
On the L4060 HSTC-LE I ordered, the rear remotes are the same price as the actual kit you can buy afterwards and labor would be the same price since they are dealer installed. Maybe it is different with Deere and they are factory installed, but Kubota would be no different in cost if you get them installed new or after already having it. If you decided on 1 remote installed, then later on decided to add two more, now it will cost you more as they have to do the same work twice, so you pay double the labor. If you buy multiple options to be installed, like air ride seat, rear remotes, anything that requires in cab work, it is better to have it all done at the same time as labor is less. I plan to install the 3rd function and QA remote myself, kit price is same minus install fee if bought new.
I purchased a L6060hstc end of 2021. I installed all my own hydraulics. I had the dealer include the parts kits in the purchase price but saved $3k in labor by doing it myself. Took me about 12 hrs to install 3 rear remotes and third function with the hydraulic skid steer connect.
@@braxtonwiggins6576 Labor on mine was only $600 to install all the rear remotes, but I will be installing the 3rd function/QA remote myself. Reason I had them install the rears is because the case is cracked open under the seat to install it, and would rather they do that for warranty reasons than if I did it and something went wrong with the hydraulics. Cheap insurance. Otherwise I would do it myself as well. The 3rd function and QA remote doesn't involve cracking the case open.
I’ve got 4 tractors, a John Deere 5525, 6400, and 70 aswell as an Allis Chalmers 200, none of them have cabs and only one has a loader. So now that I’ve been doing this about 25 years, I’m starting to regret not getting a single cabbed tractor, and only one loader tractor
Block heater if you use your tractor every day or every other day during cold weather on an working farm not a hobby farm saves batteries and starters Besides internal engine wear and tear...
I lived in Wyoming and a block heater is a must there. In northern Virginia only would be used a couple of weeks per year. Now in southern NC. It is worthless ( rarely gets below 30). Every feature depends on what you are doing. The thing he left out is the hydraulic top link. If you pull anything g it will simplify your life. I often use it to get to bottom arms into position.
Searching for 1st tractor for ~30 acres Priced JD,Kubota, Case/NH, TYM,Branson and RK all with cabs 35-55 HP Finding in stock tractors and parts is telling HD is a must HST is a bust
Something I never thought of 3 years ago buying the B2601 60MMM over 54" gives more room to mow around objects. Dealer told me he has never sold a B2601 with 54"". I looked at it on Monday they had it in my driveway on Friday :)
I have the 72" auto connect mower deck on my 2038r and I am not a fan. I find that if I don't remove my loader first that the parking stand hits the front arm on the mower deck making it hard to install and impossible to remove without someone holding the front bracket on the deck down so it clears the parking stand on the loader. The grass (especially dry grass) gets into the radiator screen and I have to stop and clean it often. With that being said I love mowing with my tractor much better than with my 0-turn mower. My tractor rides much smoother and I have much less fatigue. Also on my tractor I am much higher than on my 0-turn mower and that puts me up out of the dirt.
As usual, your "point & counter-point" items are well made. I couldn't agree more! The MSL vs NSL comparison gave me a bit of a chuckle. My LX2610 has a wonderful feature built in with joy stick to enable MSL function when you need it. Something I think only Kubota has. It is a fantastic feature!!!
I filled the tires at home with -30 windshield washer fluid and a fill adapter to go on a small pump. I added arm rest too. The upgrade was a ridiculous price.
Your channel would have been helpful in 2000 when I bought my New Holland Boomer. The tractor has been a great tractor but at the time I had a skid steer and did not need a loader but in hind site I wish I would of bought the loader hydraulics so now to add a loader the only option is a valve that is attached to the loader frame and not on the tractor fender witch would be more user friendly .
The MSL loaders seem to have less curl than the comparable NSL loaders which is a big deal when moving material with the bucket. The increased lift capacity with the MSL is just mechanical advantage of that type of lift mechanism. If you mostly move hay bales and pallets then the MSL is probably a better option. If you are going to do mostly bucket work then I’d lean toward the regular loader.
Great informative video! I know I regret not getting the hydraulic kit when I bought my snow blade. I have found I could really use it. But now, it may no longer be available and the standard cylinders I can find just won't fit.
Kubota LX2610 has two different offered size tires aswell. If you go with the larger size they say you cannot use the mower deck because of clearance. Clearance and weight gain and not ever planning to use the tractor to mow sold me on the larger size tires.
Unfortunately you can't get R14 on the Grand L and I think the JD 3R series series. I believe we are paying 600 dollars more for the R4 rather than R1 ag tires.
@@jimmcknight3021 I have seen the grand L's set up with "winter" radials for snow plowing companies. They seem to work well for that, but I don't know how well they would work for mud. Nokian might be the brand name.
@@bladewiper I'm in the south, Western Arkansas, so it is the mud conditions rather than snow. I had just heard the R14 tends to wear better than the other models and can handle better in adverse conditions than R4. Eventually they will come up with them, but we'll use R4 tires for now.
@@richardweihert6233 I do believe I can get them from HLA or Worksaver. I looked into it for my JD 4 Series awhile back, but never followed through. I know they are expensive!
grapple come many different configurations i personally like the one that bottom bucket looks like skeleton that would function for picking smaller rocks 2in and up
Retiring in a couple years and looking at a Kubota 4760. On their "Build My Kubota" feature, on the rear remotes it gives you a choice between two types, a Float Detent and a Double Acting Valve. What is the difference between the two? (I'm looking at mine as a general utility tractor: mowing/ brush hogging, food plot prep and planting, general property maintenance)
Float detent allows you to push the lever past the normal operating position and the valve falls into the detent where it stays out on it's own. The fluid is free to pass in that position and is not pressurized, so an attached implement can "float" (named assuming it is something that follows the ground which is the primary use). The other sounds like a standard two direction valve. My tractor came with one of each, but what I wish it had was a valve with a detent that was powered. Useful for things with a remote valve like a log splitter, backhoe, or any hydraulic motor. I think they typically just route a line directly from the pump to cover that use instead (if purchased) but then it has no valve to control it.
I'm not sure how this works, but if you change the size of the rear tires, don't you have to put on a set of compatible front tires also? Changing the diameter will affect the way the front wheel assist synchs the front and rear tires. If that is the case, you should mention that also when bringing up changing rear tires. Love your videos! Keep up the "Good Work"!
My first wrecker had air ride seat and a 15” tall leaf spring. It was the only part of being in a military grade wrecker that was bearable. My last wrecker had air ride suspension and still the air ride seat and rode better than most civilian vehicles especially with a back injury, which having a properly adjusted seat suspension helps prevent
I got auxiliary 3rd function hydraulics on the FEL thinking I would be using it in the future and it would help with resale value if I trade it in. 5 years later and i never used the 3rd function but right now my tractor is at the dealer getting rear remotes added because now i need them. SMH
@@GoodWorksTractors ummm....hmmm. I might have a "friend" that did this once or 3 times - but hey platinum level 2 for JD rewards is a cool bragging right
I have been following you for quite a while, you have to remember me. I refer a lot of tractor friends to your channel and site. Thanks so much for all the great information and tips. I purchased some attachments with my L3560, yet i need a pallet fork and also mirrors for working rear attachment. I am waiting on my backhoe to come in as its on backorder and i could get anything else with the 0rate i need yet i need to give you some business for all the informational Videos you have shared. I guess I’ll go to the site but look out for me as I prefer some recommendations
Has anyone put Rim guard in all.four tires.One desler said their cust had the front.tires leak ect ?? Sounds sketchy.As long as they used the proper metsl valve ect?
I know this is an old video and I've probably already asked this question but how wide should of wheel spacers do I need? We have our brand new lx3310 delivering in about 2 weeks and I'm really interested in widening the rear. It has factory cab, 54" bucket and 63" front snowblower.
The air ride on my L6060 does not ride any better than the spring seat on my old L5030. It seems low and very little travel even when set up in the middle setting. Plus I lost the compartment in the back of the seat.
