I really appreciate this RU-vid channel for two reasons, 1) I feel the personal involvement you " The Radio Shop" provide us . We the lay person like myself rarely enjoy. 2) I feel that you are talking to me directly. The video puts me directly in the room we you. The things that frustrating to me is that electronic as it relates to ham radio has always been a mystery. Thanks for opening that door. Looking forward to more video. 73s
Really enjoy your videos and now I have two FT101's! I'm having a ball on the first one repairing and I await the arrival of the second one which is reported as working. Your videos have really helped me. Thank you so much country cousin. William.
Buddy, Thank you so much for posting these videos. Your shared wisdom helped me return an FT-101B to service, that was left to me by a good friend who went SK a few months back.
Long videos are preferred by those of us who OWN FT-101s. I just acquired mine (101B) from Ebay, and I'm getting into checking it out. I've watched several of these videos, and downloaded them all.
Hi Buddy. I did the trans. and rec.alignment on my FT 101F per your video. Worked great. The change in performance was great. I wish you would do a video on the crystal board and how to adj. the trimmers under them. Thanks for all the Info.
I am so happy I found your channel. Love It! Can't wait to watch you going through the receiver. If you are still looking for the 101 Original, I have a parts rig, giving you a chassis and some cards. Let me know.
I'm very impressed with your knowledge and skill. I'm in the process of trying to get my old TS52S working after being in storage for too long. I bought it new not long after the "S" model came out. I have learned a lot from watching your videos, especially the TS520's. You are easy to listen to and have a great way of explaining things. Thanks so much. WD9ARK
The Radio Shop I appreciate you taking time to show the method and steps taken to identify then rectify faults. I'm inspired to have a go fixing a couple of projects - a 520s and also safety mods for FL2100Z amp. If I pick up a 101 radio for repair, first thing to do is review your clips.
Buddy, You should make the videos as long as is comfortable for you. Whatever you upload, we will watch. :-) Sorry about you loosing that one board. WB3BJU
As you know Buddy its all in the detail. My approach would be a board by board approach following the RX TX PWR and intermediate paths with reference to the schematics you divided up and refered to in the first of your 101 series. I think this sequencial "hands on" approach best for all levels of viewers to follow at their own pace (the viewer can stop, start, watch later as needed). Hence the longer format would not be an issue and I feel the way to go. I know this will entail more editing. However I think this would be the most logical approach and usefull for all to follow and will be greatly appreciated by your ever increasing audience. Cheers, Greg VK2ZEZ.
Hi Buddy, Those FT101's are great radios! I had one years ago, but I was seduced by a newer radio so I sold it:-( I still have a Heathkit HW101, and a Kenwood TS-511-S. My suggestion would be to show new hams how to set the various controls - pre-selector, plate, load and etc.). I'm sure some new hams have never even seen a tube rig! 73 Jim K8NBZ
After cleaning the relays & band switch I got my 101E to receive on all bands. A few days later I powered it up to look at the Xmit side & it was back to NO receive anywhere. !!!! I discovered that I could put the mode switch between TUNE & USB & it would receive on all bands (but not necessarily in the right Mode). Cleaned the mode sw, but still no receive, unless I cheat the position. Back to square one. I'll keep watching & if I find something I'll report here. Thanx Buddy.
Bob, thanks for sharing this. It is possible that there is a carbon deposit on the switch contacts. Specially if things are intermitted. I have found that sometimes cleaning with spray will get it working but soon fails again. I like to spray the cleaner on while turning the switch back and forward at the same time. Sometimes those contact fingers are sprung open not making good contact.Please let us know what you find.
Be back logged is a good thing! That 101 is a pretty cool rig. Now I have another radio I will be looking for. Man your costing me $$$. ;) lol thanks for the effort on the vids I appreciate it .
These radios will be around in some form for decades to come. I vote for long, detailed videos. People can always fast forward or rewind if they get information overload :) I'm pretty lucky to find this series after buying one of these radios on ebay (for MUCH more than ten bucks I might add). I'll be watching every minute, repeatedly. By the way, how big of a difference does the speech processor make? I found one for my EE, but I've never heard one before.
Thanks for the comment. I really like the speech processor in the 101's. Reason is they are real processors and not a gimmick like some of the newer rigs. It is the difference in not making a contact and busting into a pile up. I do plan on covering this in future videos.
Very nice comment Randy. And I agree. Back over 40 years ago when I started in electronics there were several missing things that we have today. One is media such as internet ect. Two was money. I was I\an avid short wave listener and could not afford to buy a radio. Knowledge came from reading books from the local library and magazines that folks threw out. Parts came from relatives that were throwing out broken TV's and radios. I used to visit the trash dumpsters behind TV shops when my mother had to go to town. Which was not often since we grew up on a farm and that is where most of our food was raised. I can remember sitting in my bottom bunk bed soldering circuits together till midnight! Was many failed projects and a room full of smoke back then. But I learned from the mistakes.
Awesome videos , short or long , either way but when your done compiling them in one place would be great , Just picked a mint 101F so one day I might have to refurbish it , later if you could , one fantastic video you could do is the 6JS6C TO 6146B conversion
Thanks for that reply steven. Nice find on the 101. They are really fun to operate. I am still not convinced that the conversion to 6146 tubes is the best idea yet. Heard so many have problems after the fact. But I have not done this mod myself. I do however have 2 101 F radios. It is possible that I may convert one to 6146 tubes.
i like the long lengthy videos with the explanations etc. i'm technical minded myself understand electronics, schematics etc. as i said b4 i have a 101 that needs some work, use your videos to help me out
I see the SA found a new home in the top right of the screen. Radios looking good on the 101 so far. Long videos are fine for me but it may be better to keep them to a minimal length. Would be better for the newer guys to absorb info in small chunks.
Hi Buddy, I personally don't mind whether you do many short videos or a few long ones. I realize that it takes time to edit them, so it's got to be whichever is easiest for you. I guess it could vary depending on the time you have. One thing is for sure, I enjoy all your videos and I'm sure that like all the radio nuts on here, I am very grateful for them so keep em coming! Cheers Alan G0NFY
The little "poof" can be just as devastating a sound as a big spark & bang! Was troubleshooting our home intercom system as soon as I touched the wrong spot on the PCB and there was the slightest of all 'poof" sound I absolutely knew I was deep, dark, dingy stuff. I'm still messing with that stupid thing, figured it was easier to replace, fix and keep the other as a spare...boy, was the XYL perturbed! 73 - Dino KL0S
When ever a sound like "poof" is heard while working on a gadget can really unsettle a person. You should see 277 in a roof go poof. Man talk about fireworks. Thanks Dino.
I would like to see a video on mods to the power amplifier stage incase C131 or C13 short. A .01uf is in series with C131 and C13 to prevent damage if they do short. Also adding a BY127 diode in series with R14 incase either 6JS6C flashes over. Then going thru the neutralize procedure.
For me, the more technical the better, but of course I'm working on (slowly) rebuilding one now. Personally I'd like to see the power section (transformer, PB-1076, Q1, Q2, etc.). Somebody let out the magic smoke on this one by using a non Yaesu power plug ....
Just a Free FYI.The Processor is very much NOT needed.The transmit audio is great without it & I'd guess that most people who have them in their FT-101 radios do NOT ever use them.Put a good Astatic D-104 on it & it won't need anything.I have the FT-101B (Early Model) & the FT-101EX & the transmit audio is great & everyone compliments about how good the audio is & neither has the processor but it's your money if you just are looking too spend it.I'd spend the money on another piece of the set such as a YC-601 frequency readout,an external speaker,or even one of the two transverters that were options or some part that is actually a Plus for the radio.
I agree with what you are saying about the 101's audio. It is very good. I would never install a processor board to use myself. If I do install it then it would be a video just showing how to do it, how the unit works, and a look on the scope with it. Thanks for chiming in.
Hi Buddy, I agree with the other guys. Whatever is easiest for you. Less time editing, more time refurbishing. Any video length is fine, there is a stop button, and it remembers the spot to restart. Just don’t dumb it down too much. ;>). Simple is good, but detail is great. This must be the week for goofs. I was working on a high voltage radio ps and let the meter probe slip and blew a diode, O’well! The old double E is looking good. Have a good week. 73
Thanks Larry for your feedback. From what I read here sounds like folks don't really mind how they get it as long as available. Details are a must but in a simple speak. Hate it when the meter probe slips lol. Thanks.
I'd like to see by section to make my notes on to keep up I like to research a go step by step to see what I learned that just me I can always go back off I like the explanations on each thing and the picture thing has paid off tnx
I like videos on specific topics for the FT-101 such as the power supply, audio, filters, etc. The length of the video is not too important to me. My FT-101EE has been working great for a couple of years but now has audio problems. There is static so some sound is coming out but does not receive stations. But it does receives stations intermittently. A QSO will come in loud, but a few seconds later it is gone and then it comes back loud again. I look forward to any videos on the receive section. Lou WA8DBP
Thanks Lou. This problem may be easier than you think. Had one doing the same thing and found a internal broken cap on the High frequency board. We will go through the receiver just like it is listed in the block diagram.
FT-101 vids, maybe break them down part by part and have a index. so if someone wants to know about "x" board they go right to "x" video, instead of maybe having to sit though a 50min video. Also thanks for the tidbits help on the IFR-1200 Super S spec ani been stable since i got it back going Extreme Cold- NC "cold" is mild, har har
Buddy, thank you for the videos and sharing your experience. I hear your accent and i always think of Ward Burton! Are you from WV or NC? Don't be offended, I am a Tarheel.
Hello Sir I'm assuming that you are a "subject-matter-expert" when it comes to the FT101s. What I would like to know if you do outside work on them or you just repair and sale? I have an E model that I would like to have realigned? I have collected 6 of these radios. Thanks
Hi Adrian. Yes I work on all types of electronics and radios. But stay pretty backed up. Click the show more tab under the videos and then click Contact info. Shoot me an email and we can discuss it.
Re: unkeyed boards...would it be worthwhile to apply your own key by soldering say a nut to the chassis and making a matching cutout on the board enclosure?
i prefer the long videos, (45-60+) regardless I will make time to watch your work! aww man! thats too bad about that board going pop. my next video will be a electronics video and not a crap video like ive been doing. cya soon Buddy! -Bobby
Thanks Bobby. From what I see here people just want the videos. long or short. The board survived. The diodes under the radio did not lol. All fixed though. Hey your videos are great. We all need a good laugh and to me your channel is about fun!. Keep em coming Bobby. Don't always get a chance to reply but watch them all.
I have to agree with some of the other commentators here.... about the length of your videos. If one has trouble paying attention to a long video...how is one supposed to have the attention span and patience to do,say, four hours of fault-tracking in a circuit? None of this work comes easy, it takes study and experience. And 'payment' starts right here. It may not be a popular stance, but I think it would be a hard one to deny Kisses!! Paddy
G'day Buddy, I will be very interested in your FT101B series. I own one and it seems to have voltage on the case about 20 volts coming from some where. God Bless you mate 73. de Dennis vk4oc.
I never thought it would be a Capacitor I was looking at resistor or a bad earth connection coming off the valves or the driver . I'' keep looking mate 73. Thank you for your help and your limited time. Come join the retired group only takes you a life time LOL!
Yep, Sometimes the lead on a cap (those Mylar types in this rig) can come loose internally and cause all kinds of intermitted problems. Signals disappear and come back. Scratchy noise ect. I think it was Paul (Mr Carlson's Lab) just showed this in his last video. No worries mate.
This is very easy to do. Let the tubes warm up. Go ahead and set the preselect and plate control pointers to the band you want to use and the load control half way. But the radio in tune position. Now flip the switch to MOX. Looking at the bottom scale of the meter note where it is at. .1 is 100 ma. You want .60 ma. 0 to .1 would be 50 ma. So one mark past 50 would be 60 ma. Rotate the bias control so it shows .60 ma. You are now ready.
