I went through this same scenario multiple times, but luckily did not lose my engine. The problem is the intake gaskets, which are Fel-Pro Printoseal. They are meant only for racing use, the non stick design was meant make frequent engine tear downs easier and allow them to be reused a few times. They are fine for limited use at the track, running only water and no thermostat. Run them on the street at 200F+ with antifreeze, and they slowly degrade around the water ports and eventually fail. I replaced mine multiple times with the same gaskets until I finally caught on to the real problem. After switching to factory style steel/graphite gaskets, the problem has been solved for 10+ years and thousands of miles now. If you search for "Fel-Pro Printoseal failure" you will find multiple cases where others have seen the same issue.
Given what else you found in this engine, I'd make doubly sure the deck was flat, the bores matched the pistons, the pistons are actually from the same set and they aren't a hodgepodge of stock and 20 or 30 over, and that the rings are gapped and installed correctly and not already worn out. If they had to true out that much of a weight mismatch there's something really iffy going on.
For my sisters wedding present, i told her i would fix her 72 Camaro's leaking oil sending unit, her noisy lifters, along with an oil change. Since the lifters are hydraulic, i was thinking of a new cam and lifter kit. The dealer quoted her $1500 for the job.. I drove her car 25 miles on the freeway to my home and stopped by the local car wash to clean the engine and compartment.. Once home in the garage on the phone with my mother, i pulled the oil dip stick to see the color of the oil. To my amazement, there was no oil on it. I told my mother, she was shocked and told me to check it again, I told her I checked it 3 times. I hung up and went to get oil, oil filter, air filter, oil sending unit, and antifreeze. I drained what oil there was 1/2 cup, replaced oil/air filters, changed sending unit, added oil. Started up the engine, and the clattering noisy lifters got quiet.. Shut down the engine, flushed the coolant system, and refilled. Took the car for a run, ran better that before.. When my sister got back, i asked about her checking the oil. She said her boyfriend "husband" was doing that. I asked him to show me how he checked it. He pulled out the transmission dip stick. I showed him the one for the oil.. He was from Poland and never had an automatic and since the tranny dip stick is a nice bright yellow, he thought that was the one.. The big shocker, why didnt the engine seize up and shame on me for not checking the oil first..
"WHAT DID I GET MYSELF INTO?" I totally had to laugh at that one as those words came out of my mouth yesterday when I volunteered to help my son with a pop up camper they bought without knowing WHAT they were really buying. Went from simple water heater exchange and some pipe repairs into a litany of things from the axle bearings on up. Yes, What did I get myself into? 😂
I am shocked at everything you have found wrong. I can't wait for you to tell everyone what route we are taking. I may look into a roller cam. But I've had a few friends had roller comp cam fail during break-in.
I'm glad she took this engine to the right person this this. That water leak was a giant have a look at what they really did. This 76 is going to be on point now!
I rarely get a decent "rebuilt" engine. I had a John Deere 8420 (roughly 300hp) engine go down last year. I ordered a factory reman, and on first startup, it was dripping engine oil out of the expansion sleeves on the exhaust manifold. The dealer told me to run it and see if it cleared up. I put 250 hours on it, its better but it still drips engine oil if it idles for a while. I need it and can't afford another month of downtime!
If you read this in time...maybe Richard can show us how to properly "break in" a new cam and lifter set. I have heard of so many versions to this that I can't believe most of them.
Look at the bright side….at least it has 4 bolt mains 😳 I think the person who sold it to you owes you a refund 👍🏻 I mean this engine is literally a “what not to do” when rebuilding an engine.
67 GTO 6.5 litre has a bad design. Warer pump housing is integrated into the timing chain cover.. the bolt to the cam gear, if the threads in the cam arent cleaned and dried, no loctite applied and the bolt isnt tightened until it feels like its going to snap, the bolt shouldve had left hand threads instead of right-handed threads can back out and punch a hole in the toming chain cover/water pump housing and dump water into the oil.. Lesson learned when a chunk of balancer shaft broke and got behind the gear and timing chain, it snapped the chain. And i replaced it by Pontiacs shop manual directions.
Chances are that the coolant was coming from the intake. I have built at least 5-600 small and big block Chevrolets and I never used a sealer on the head bolts, only oil to lube the threads. And have never had an issue with them leaking into the crankcase.
Better check all the lower end. Bearings are more than likely wasted with all the water damage. I had the same thing happen to my sbc boat engine years ago
Off topic, not sure where to ask this question. A4LD Bell housing Seal Bleed off Hole. What size drill should I use to drill out the holes in the Bell housing & pump? Love your new sight, I've been a huge fan, thanks...
I'd say that motor has way more than 2500 miles in it. You don't get that kind of staining in the bottom of an engine in 2500 miles. They might have put a cam in it. Those heads looked like a lot more than 2500 too. Some one sold her some ocean front property in Oklahoma.
wow what a terrible machine shop job! I wouldn't bother with them smog heads, they are prone to cracking especially in the exhaust seat areas where crossover is, I scrapped alot of them at the machine shop way back! World products S/R torquers or something bare and build your own. the money you dump in the stock heads isnt worth it IMO. Going to be a nice lower end when done! WOW who grinds rods like that??????? Id went roller cam; I don't trust ANY flat tappet lifter these days. Yeah, its more money but lasts and makes more power with profiles and no worrying about wiped out lifters. I'm sure others on here will agree. Keep up the great work you do there!!!!!
2:39 Gonna pause to write down a theory that the intake is leaking, and it washed the cam lobes down and galled 'em. Time to press play and see where it's at... EDIT: Yes indeed, all that and so much more. I don't think that motor would have made another 25,000 miles, one or two good rips would have distorted those rod caps or gotten one of those mis-installed cam bearings to seize up if the gasket didn't pop first. Thing looked well on it's way to burning exhaust valve seats from leakage too, just a sad rebuild. EDIT 2: 20:20 why weren't the valves rotating, will crooked guides do that or did they have the wrong keepers/worn out rocker tips?
@@richardteresacricheducatio3542 Weigh the pistons and pins too. Either they're unmatched or someone threw that engine together with junk rods. I'm not sure I'd even trust the block at this point.
What 😯 WOW whoever worked on this engine didn't know what they were doing. They were trying to balance the rotating assembly by grinding the rod caps. Who does this kind of work?😡 I would ask Lisa if she would like to have her engine balanced with heavy metal. But that's just me.
I am nit a rocketsurgeon by ANY STRETCH, but why in the world would you grind the rod caps????? That amount of damage in just 2500 miles??? Was the intake gasket split when it is was first started and allowed to leave the shop in the first place??
That rectangular pad on the bottom of the cap, it's whole existence is as extra weight to be removed to get a balance with all the other rod/piston assemblies. If they had to remove that much, I'm betting they used rods from two different engines and they were not the same rod, either a different batch or a different part number altogether. I didn't count but if there were 4 ground off and 4 largely intact, that's the clue.
Thank all of you! That makes sense, but it still leaves dumbfounded as to why someone would do that... AND SELL IT to another unsuspecting individual without their conscience bugging them. It sounds as though this woman truly loves this car... and what's not to love? It also sounds as though this may not have been her first headache with the car... tyranny first, and to niw need to rebuild the entire engine, block excluded after only 2500 Mike's, positively blows my mind. Thank you all again for the knowledge and helping me to understand.🙏💜
Wow... i woulda just got a long block. Lol. Unless you reeeeeaaallyy feel like doing a custom engine build for this person. Lol. That thing was junk. (2400 miles on a fresh rebuild, no lowballers... i know what i got...)
I've seen better rebuilds from a fifth grader holy smokes who rebuilt that engine better yet who done the machine work on those heads 2500 mi motor shouldn't have valve where like that
Please do not run that flat tappet cam. All manufacturers have seemingly forgotten how to manufacture the lifters properly. Most don’t make it through a break in without wiping. If it miraculously manages to it’ll be a ticking time bomb. Roller cam with link bar lifters is the only way nowadays.
This block may not accept the roller cam as it needs to have the correct castings to accept the lifter "spyder" that is added to a non roller block. Also, the front engine cam sprocket area has to have alterations which not all blocks could be changed for the roller cam.
