So, if I understood well, first you bisque fire, then you glaze and finally you mix oxides with water & put transparent glaze over the whole pot. Am i correct? Thank you for your tutorials!
ca serait bien d'avoir des sous titres, parce que c'est un peu difficile de tout comprendre. Sur quelle terre travailles-tu, faïence, grès, porcelaine ? Merci !
Thanks. I always bisque borefor glazing. The clay is a stoneware I get from a local supplier (Denmark). So unless you are here it probably won't help you much :-)
Another fun and inspiring video. Thank you! In one of your other vids you suggest to mix gersley borate and epk with the oxide/water solution. In this vid is the oxide only mixed with water? Is this because it’s going on glaze? And you use the addition of gersly and epk just if you’re staining a pot with it with no glazes??
Experimenting is always fun especially if one stays open minded with no expectation except to discover the "what ifs". I have used many glazes on multiple clays and it seems as long as I and firing to the same cone, it works well. The glazes look different on each clay body which is fun in itself - heavy red iron clay vs speckled buff vs white stone vs porcelain all cone 6 -- it's like having multiple glazes in one bucket 😉. Happy New Year
I am inspired. Thank you very much Mikkel. I didn't know you can put stains on top of glazes - I am looking forward to experimenting. Thank you very much Mikkel. Carolann.
Absolutely gorgeous! I just bought some oxides to try out. On the fermenting crock, what was the difference between the oxides below the glaze vs under the glaze?
I love your videos! I have a difficult question thou 🙈with what do you replace gersley borate in the floating blue receipt? There is no more GB where I live…
Thanks a lot 🙏 All the glaze fires I do in my ovn workshop is cone 6, close to an E1, 15 min hold and natural cooling. I mostly use clay I buy locally, and often mixed reclaim. Some it is from G&S in Germany (254, 551, 471) and some unbranded from local suppliers. So to most of my vievers not avalable exactly the same. In my throwing and glaze testing videos I show the exact clays I use
Love your explanation and demonstration. That is up my alley. I was looking up your white glaze in John Britt's book but could not find it. Would you kindly send it to me. I really want to try out your process as I already have a bucket of floating blue that needs improvement.
Hello Mikkel. Very informative and fun video. I have experimented a little with oxide washes, but this was like advanced level and makes me want to try further. I do have Heath Ivory, not A2V white, but it does the same, makes other glazes under it move. I love glazes like that. I intend to mix a batch of A2V and try it. Thanks very much for sharing and btw, I loved the results.
Thank you so much. For someone like me that can't really paint, this sort of abstract paint-splashing is the second best option - and I do also like the results :-)
Loved your video! I have not watched your videos before, but I will now. My floating blue is from James Chappell’s The Potter’s Complete Book of Clay and Glazes. It is not the same color as yours, but does fire pretty much the same. It does need to go on thicker so the blue floats and it breaks brown. Can’t wait to use the oxide stains over it. I have never done that before.
Thanks a lot 🙏❤️ I release a new video every Sunday - at the moment most indoor stuff like throwing, carving and glazing but as soon as it gets a little warmer I will get back to much more pitfire and raku too. Love playing with fire 😎 Yes, most of this kind of runny blue glaze need to be applied pretty thick
Wow! Everything turned out so beautifully!!! I can’t wait to do what you did with the washes and oxides!! I’ve always used them very “perfectly” on the rim or in texture and wiped back etc. Thanks so much for sharing.
Those are stunning. I love oxides and stains but always thought they were not food safe in bowls or plates. If they are you've just opened up all the colors and oxides ive purchased over the years to a new level. Thank you
Thanks :-) Food safety is a very complex and legally depending on local laws. But as the same oxides are used in the glazes and it all melts together I am not afraid of it :-)
Thank you so much for sending me this video ❤. I have wanted to learn how to use oxides and stains. Your pots turned out so awesome. Thanks for sharing your awesome talent.
Mikkel, I just discovered you and your terrific videos. thank you. I am binge watching the videos and learning lots. I am a studio potter for 23 years and live in eastern North Carolina. I make my own glazes and use Joe Thompson's Old Forge Floating Blue recipe, but have JOHN BRITT's recipe as well. Which of the many recipes of floating blue do you use? I have never added so many layers of different stains over or under a glaze, and certainly never tried zinc oxide as a colorant over/under a glaze.... I need to test that. I appreciate your knowledge and want to try your methods. If I get the results you get I will be thrilled. I fire to cone 6 (john Britts schedule E1) and use a white stoneware clay and a red stoneware. what is your firing schedule and what kind of clay are you using? I hope this isn't too many questions.... but your video has made me want to try a new things. Happy New Year! and again thanks!
Thanks a lot :-) The Floating Blue I use is closest to OldForge's. I prefer the manganese in this rather than RIO. I only do cone 6 glaze fires in my own studio. I do not follow John Britts schedules but I guess it's closest to the E1. I primarily work in stoneware in my own studio mostly using various clays from G&S in Germany. Right now it's their 551 - a clay with a lot of iron and 40% very fine grog that I use the most.
thanks for your response. I continue to learn that there are so many variables to get the results we are trying to accomplish. I am not chemically savvy and need to check the recipes for floating blue and experiment with the manganese as opposed to the rio. I love your videos and the detail you provide. I truly am a fan. 🙂 @@deMibPottery
I thoroughly enjoyed your demonstration. Thank you, I am inspired to give this a go. Could I please have your recipe for the floating blue glaze.? I am saving up for my own kiln and I am keen to purchase a cob craft. Regards from New Zealand, the first country to see the sun rise. I have just found your recipe thank you.
Hello, thank you so much for this tutorial! Can you please write down what is the white stain/oxid, that you said is very fluent? I can't understand in the video and when you showed the pot it was blurred. Thank you again 🎉
Which kind of glazes should we choose to work good with oxides? The blue and white you used, are they opaqe or not? Are they runny or not? The blue is, but what if i choose glazes not floating? I really liked your video, it helps me a lot when i see the process and the results. And your work is excellent! Thank you!
Thanks :-) You need to do your own experiments based on the clay, glazes, oxides and fire schedules you use. It all play a lot so unless you 100% copy my setup - which is almost impossible your results will be different :-)
Beautiful work! I'm throwing today, and going to make pots with this technique in mind. I do have a question, will stains and oxides make a stable glaze move?
First of all - it is important to remember that food safety is not a global specification. Depending on where you live laws may require different things. In Denmark, where I live, you can have your pottery tested for food safety - if it lives up to the requirements in the law, but it is VERY expensive and have to be done for every single design/glaze combo/fire schedule. I don't know of any ceramic artists that do this (and it is in fact only required for large productions). It is only large scale pottery factories that do. Having said that, the method of mixing oxides and stains under and over glazes makes them melt together. And as it is many of the same colorants used in the glazes I feel confident that it is no more or less food safe than if I only used the glaze.
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