8 MPG?! - EFF THAT! 

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When it gets that low, it’s no longer mpg, it’s gpm

Literally stopped what I was doing to watch this. As an older-car guy, not an older car-guy, this should be a really fun video. Just replaced a 22 year old OEM fuel filter the other week, and hoping that's going to help a bit with fuel economy, and throttle response. Edit: You definitely picked the right car for this channel, because you've got a bit of work ahead of you, bro.

Powernation just did a three part video for improving fuel efficiency on a 3rd gen Camaro. That might help.

You are single handily keeping my childhood dream cars on the road.

My solution for 4 1/2 mpg in my 1967 Ford f100 429ci pickup was to buy a Honda to commute in. Excellent video have a great day stay awesome.

I always picture you in a suit working on the cars!

I have a 88 Iroc-Z (LO3) 305tbi 5 speed...drove my dad nuts of the same thing, surging rpm...there was no service engine on...so we took a guess O2 sensor-it was bad, and also found out the Smog air diverter valve was causing the low idle during startup when it was at operating temp-meaning the bad diverter valve was pushing air onto the O2 sensor thinking I opened the throttle, so the computer was flooding the intake and would have rev my engine to not wanting it to die

My 85 Corvette got 32mpg after I put a Doug Nash 6 speed in it that transmission had a double overdrive.

"Keep it between the ditches" reminds me of a friend's father, who says "keep it between the mustard and the mayo." :p

List of things that could cause problem: 1) a thing that requires time consuming rebuilds and several new parts. 2) an expensive new ECM. 3) an inexpensive thing that is simple to replace. Hmmm, let's leave number three for last.

Wasn't too fond of this channel when you first made it but, now can't stop watching them. Got me into the world of wanting a sports car

Winston, I don't recall you mentioning this, but if you haven't, please do a compression and vacuum check on that engine. Also, check valve and ignition timing (stroboscopic timing light) so you know where you are starting from with this probable high mileage engine. If it's a chain-driven camshaft, it could have jumped a link or it could be worn enough to effect performance. If the fundamentals are all good, I'd look for something more exotic.

I knew I recognized SerpentZA's voice from the beginning

I drove the TBI on a caprice taxi cab for ten years before port injection came along without any problem over 550,000 miles . I came into work one day and they stripped it for body parts for a new cab that was hit in the side and front.

It is a good thing you love this car because it is clear it is a money pit

I just spent ten hours today trying to diagnose and repair a hydraulic pump, and after using the precision of a surgeon, one wheel still isn't working. I'm impressed you went to the trouble to figure all this out. 👍👍👍💪💪💪

Remember that 1986 Sci-Fi Horror film "Aliens"? I'm reminded of a quote... *"I say we take off and nuke the entire site from . It's the only way to be sure."*

1985 Firebird was my 1st car I owned. Quite the nostalgia looking at all the parts. The main problem I had with this vehicle was the system that lifted the front headlights

You should try running some high mileage oil in the car. It can sometimes stop the valve stem issue all together. They put swelling agents in the oil to make the seals supple again. Only issue is that you must continue to use the oil for the rest of the life of the car to continue having no issues. Stopped my cars valve stem issue and stopped the burning of oil.

Keep the videos coming. My son bought a 1991 with the 305 throttle body and I'm learning everything I can. Your videos are helping.

I know it's not low mileage. But makes for great videos. These early fuel injection & emissions cars get really dirty from EGR. Figuring out EGR paths and cleaning them out makes a world of difference (EGR, EGR pipes and paths, throttlebody butterfly, etc.)

can't wait for that LS swap. this thing is going to be an absolute monster

I'm considering doing a coffee table photo book featuring dead Camaros in the yard. Within a 25 mile radius of my home, there are enough examples to fill two volumes.

You have to have someone follow you but if you blow blue smoke accelerating, it's your rings. If you expel blue smoke decelerating it's your valve seals. Get a scan tool and make sure your ECM is seeing the correct engine temperature. Also make sure it's going into closed loop. You can clean up your cat and combustion chamber with GM Top Engine Cleaner. Mix it 50/50 with water into a jug and suck it in through a vacuum port at 2000 rpm being careful not to stall it while the engine is hot.

Ahh cant wait to watch another video stay healthy and awsome to you and your families. Much love from Canadian audience to the north.

I bought one of these brand new in 1989. It was the black Formula Tuned Port Injection 350 (upgrade from the earlier earlier throttle body and made more power) which was out of the corvette however had something like 10 hp less than the Corvette due to the exhaust differences (of course) between the Firebird chassis and Corvette. I remember owners complaining about the limited slip cone clutches wearing out prematurely allowing one wheel to spin like an open differential when tracking. Mine started burning oil at 12k because of deflective valves seals however Pontiac replaced them under warranty. I sold it right after and bought a late 1980 928 auto euro imported to the US model and never had an issue with it. I sold that after five years and bought a manual 928 in 2000 which I still have and the limited slip still locks like new on it with 108,000 miles and being 41 years old. Since 2000, I've never owned another automatic car again, even my daily drivers and and will never own one again.

Yes Winston, I've a '91 Chevy Blazer with a 350 TBI, I too had a once in a great while "Stumbling Idle". Well, I went to buy some rebuilt INJECTORS,,,,, and learned that there are 2 types.... DO NOT GET the POLICE CRUIZER Type,,, they'll eat more gas , etc. Maybe you've got something like that? Marcel in Yuma

That’s the problem with a closed loop system. Carbs and old mechanical fuel injection systems are open loop. Doesn’t matter if the valve stem seals or rings are shot. It will continue to meter air and fuel just as if nothing is wrong, environment be damned.

I remember in the old days if we had blue smoke I'd park the car on a hill facing uphill if it didn't smoke I knew it was the front valves, if it smoked it was the rear valve seals. Then check for wet plug , replace that seal and test again. Today, I would change the seals all at once. Back then we always had extra seals in the garage and only used what we needed.

Love how you worked thru each step to find the problem. We have changed those valve seals on a lot of GM cars. We used a system that didn't require removing much more than the valve covers. We would pressurize the cylinder and use a tool to compress the spring, remove the spring and then install Ford style seals. Really enjoying your series.

Winston, one thing that I always recommend to my family and friends, when they purchase a used car (especially an older model), is to get a few bottles of Seafoam; and treat the use it in the intake manifold. That smoke you're seeing when you start the engine could also be carbon buildup on the valves. After a couple of Seafoam treatments, you could end up blowing all the carbon off the valves with an Italian tune-up. (a.k.a. driving the piss out of the car, but below the redline) I don't both with the Seafoam spray. Instead, I use the liquid Seafoam; and introduce it to the manifold via a homemade atomizer. 1. Ensure the engine is hot (after a normal 30 minute drive, it's sufficient... unless you're doing it in the Winter, where temps hover and dip below freezing) 2. Use about ⅓ of the bottle. (You might need a friend to keep the RPMs up; and avoid stalling the engine) 3. Cut the engine; and let the Seafoam bake into the manifold and valves for 15 minutes. 4. Repeat steps #2 & #3 until the bottle of Seafoam is empty. 5. After the 3rd and final treatment from the bottle of Seafoam has been applied... and you've allowed it to bake for another 15 minutes, drive the car at high RPMs for 30 minutes. After each treatment, you should see a heavy amount of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, but it should clear up as the carbon buildup gets ejected through the exhaust. For larger engines, cars with high mileage or older vehicles, you may want to repeat the process again, immediately after finishing the first treatment. I've done this on many vehicles: - My VW Tiguan 2.0T (every 50K km) - My Chrysler 300C 5.7L HEMI - Pickup trucks - Friend's Honda Prelude - Friend's '78 Camaro - Dad's '77 Mercury Marquis Wagon ...and a bunch more. Each time I show someone how easy it is to do it, they do it themselves thereafter. Only once did it not make a difference; and that was because the pickup truck needed a ring job. If you know anyone with a turbo direct injection engine (that's most small cars with 2.0L engines), this is necessary to do every 50K km, because of the carbon buildup in the intake manifold. The only other options are to install a catch can, or remove the intake manifold and sandblast the carbon off with crushed walnut shells. (The last choice is expensive)

I got 95 Chevy 1500 with tbi 350. 200k miles. Bought it at 130k. It's had a 16 or 20 foot landscape or dump trailer hooked to it non stop. Mow lawns all week on a tank of gas. Good power output. No tbi issues ever. You got good plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil? Yeah it may just be the oil burning through exhaust messing o2 up. Those motors though we're fairly simple. What about timing and stretched timing chain? If valves not opening at right time you may be losing gas through exhaust. Rebuild heads. Check for cracks. New timing chain. Maybe new cam. Put on headers if it don't have them

I understand your frustration and admire your willingness to go the extra mile. When you get it right it feels great. So many people just throw it away or replace with all modern components. It worked once. Get it done.

Top content. I remember struggling with the valve stem keepers. Looking forward to your videos.

The 12 ton double decker bus I drive in Scotland gets 11.5 mpg and believe me my foot is always hammering the floor! When I lived in South Africa Durban, I bought a Merc 380SE then bought a 5.0 liter Holden (Australia) V8, slapped a brand new 450 CFM Edelbrock carb on top. With upgraded manifolds and she was a monster 😁 But boy did she love the juice

Blue smoke on cold start is usually valve stem seals. It's common on that era GMs. Some shops have a less expensive way to replace them w/o pulling the head. Compressed air is forced into the cylinder via the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place when springs and keepers are removed. Then a special machine drills out the old seal and a new one is pressed in. Springs and keepers are returned and on to the next cylinder. Huge labor savings not having to remove the heads.

The Car's ECM Prom might be wrong, thus the Lookup timing advance lookup table might be for the wrong car. Since the car's ECM (computer) was not original , the prior owners may or may not have swapped out the original Prom to the newer ECM. The prom on early 3rd gens had a 3 letter code, 1986 had 3 and 4 letter "Production Broadcast Codes"; 1987 had 4 letter codes on the Camaro. "F" Car ECM Component Cross Reference Chart shows up on google for Camaro. On my 1982 Camaro the ECM has a number 1225610 on the Computer with the code BND on the outside for the Prom. GM used that same 1225610 computer with 7 different Camaros in 1982. plus other GM cars too. The wrong prom might work but run not as well. The ECM sets the timing to the distributor via a look up table when in EST mode . It uses the MAP sensor, Temperature sensor etc , RPM etc to move the timing from base timing. The base timing is when one grounds the ALDL connector in test mode and you use a timing light. regards with your project

Reminds me so much of my red 1988 Firebird that was my first car. I still miss that car so much. It was slow by today’s standards, but it sounded good and looked cool. Mine also had the puff of blue smoke on start-up but it cleared up immediately. I routinely got over 20 mpg in mine with the 4 speed automatic, usually between 22-24 mpg, and that is with a heavy footed teenager driving it. Those cars pale in comparison to their modern counterparts in power and speed, but they sure were fun back in the day

I got about 10mpgs in a foxbody 5.0 I used to own, it needed a total overhaul on the fuel/ignition system and then only got about 16mpgs with the 5spd manual

Another interesting video. My $0.02: on my 89 TBI Formula, I had a vacuum leak A/C side heading into the firewall. Controlling the blend door for the A/C. It was discovered by a friend while helping me do some mechanical work. It was a barely audible hiss whenever I had it on MAX. Anyway, just by slightly adjusting the AC switch, the leak disappeared. It was affecting the vacuum mechanism and my mileage went from 12mpg to 16mpg. It's worth a look.

As someone who spent five years chasing the faults on a 1985 IROC-Z L69 with the E4ME computer Qjet, I feel your pain! Being in the UK didn't help - as all parts had to be carefully bought online and expensively imported! Runs like a champ now though, and I'm glad I fought for it, despite the naysayers telling me to stick on a carb. These quasi-fuel injection systems are weird as hell, but they're of their time and part of the character of the car.

This is a great series of videos. Really appreciate sharing your grief and some success on your formula. I have feeling it will get to the level of reliable, fun, and efficient motoring! More Power!!!!

This is a great video Winston. Being a big time car guy myself, It's really cool to see this different side of you.

I was a mechanic for 28 years... Never heard "tryagnosis" before. Brilliant. I don't know if it's been said in the comments or you thought of if but I've seen those TBI injectors so dirty, the car won't even start. You can watch fuel dump out of them but the spray pattern is so affected they won't fire up.There is a screen in the injectors too, that can get dirty, When you had them apart it would have been a good time to clean them. Places do it, some use an ultrasonic bath. Sometimes replacement is the only fix. I would imagine it could affect fuel economy as well. My two cents of tryagnosis

I recognized the man with the sunglasses in the thumbnail immediately. Glad I found out about this channel of his.

Maybe do a compression test as well, Winston. You'll never know as the head might have to come off as well. ;D'

Winston when you replace the valve stem seals you do not have to take the heads off of the vehicle. Get yourself an air compressor then a fitting to go into the spark plug threads to pressurize each cylinder one at a time to 60 pounds per square inch. Then obviously at this point your valve covers and rockers arms will be removed... then you can proceed to compressing and removing your valve springs then sliding off the old valve stem seals and installing the new ones. I highly suggest using Umbrella style seals as replacements, Reinstall in reverse order and you'll be good to go no more smoke. And since you're in California I would also suggest a 160 degree thermostat, it will help your vehicle run about 35 degrees Fahrenheit cooler. I just replaced the thermostat that was in my firebird and when I pulled it out the one that was in was 195 degree Fahrenheit thermostat. It took no time at all for this vehicle to get up to temperature and also not much time thereafter to get up to 220 degrees at that point the electric fan would kick on. It was just happening too quickly and the car was running to warm, hence the replacement to the 160 degree Fahrenheit thermostat. Now the vehicle runs much cooler, it has better throttle response and even after running the vehicle on 90 degree days there is an absolute noticeable difference in the heat that the engine is throwing off by placing my hand directly on the hood. The combination of this and the cowl induction drawing cool air directly into the TBI unit has made a significant difference in performance an overall running of the vehicle.

I was a GM mechanic from the early 90's to 2001. After that I had my own independent shop. TBI engines are really good but most mechanics working on them back in the day didn't understand them and as a result they are often dismissed as junk. Here's a little tip to get the most out of a GM TBI engine from this era. The factory specifies initial timing to be set at 0 degrees, at least on 4.3s, 5.0's and 5.7's. This is at idle with the timing wire disconnected or on some models with the DLC connector grounded. It will tell you which procedure to use on the underhood emission sticker. Timing chain stretch causes the timing to slowly retard over time. Most vehicles I checked were 3 to 5 degrees ATDC. Anyone who knows engine timing knows that ruins performance, and fuel economy. Reset the timing using the proper procedure but don't set it at 0 degrees. I found that in most instances you can get away with 2 degrees BTDC. Any more and the engine will detonate under hard acceleration. But going from 5 degrees ATDC to 2 degrees BTDC will make you feel like the car has 150 more horsepower and you'll get a corresponding increase in fuel economy. Every customer I did this to over the years, mostly on trucks, came back in within a few days to shake my hand stating their vehicle never ran that good ever. It was such a small thing and I never told my secret at the time, when these vehicles were on every corner. Hey, I had to have a reason to draw the customers. Today I tell everyone as these vehicles just aren't around much anymore. Good luck!

I had a 1984 Mustang Svo that I got in 85 and kept for 3 or 4 years and never had any issues with the fuel injection. Car had turbo and intercooler too. Loved that car so much. GM system looks different and old school.

Nice work

I was getting around 8 mpg in a stock 1980 Firebird (turbo). I bought the car from a consignment shop and the Rochester carb, both idle mixture screws were 8 turns open! Ran both screws all the way in and back out 1.5 turns and after 5 minutes of sooty smoke staining the driveway, it was running much better and getting closer to expected mileage.

Love these vids as I still lust after a 78-84 Trans Am.

love it nice break down of the steps

I remembered doing this on my high school friend's Brougham Cadillac he got as his first car from his dad.

Throttle body is basically an electronic carburetor. You gain a higher pressure fuel system & better control over fuel delivery. It's still not as efficient as tuned port, which the Corvette got first. It eventually became an option for that car, after eventually being offered in the Camaro. You don't have to worry about triggering the choke in cold weather, though. (or priming the carburetor)

the title of this vid is not lost on us South African fans. lol. Cheers, boet!

Very interesting video! Thanks for your work!

Love watching your videos! Also your other channels

Great video. Very informative. Looking forward to seeing the valve stem seal fix.

I had an 84 with the electronic quadajet, was actually a good piece, about 16-20 mpg. I later did extensive modifications to the engine, flat top higher compression pistons, cam, intake, edelbrock TES full exhaust. Lightly ported heads. It ran great and the carb worked great. I believe fuel economy went up while HP was up probably 100+ from stock. Those were some really choked up engines especially the base 305

I had an issue with the coolant temperature sensor on my 1990 K5 Blazer. Would send the wrong info to my computer and keep think it was cold. Making it always run rich.

There is a trick for doing valve stem seals on older engines without removing the heads, Using cotton rope about 1/4 inch thick, remove the sparkplug and fill cylinder with about 2 feet, compress the rope against the valves by rotating the engine, that way the valves won't fall out when taking off the springs and retainer's. Make sure your on the compression stroke, you will have to do one at a time. You can do that engine in about 5 hours, Cheers

I was thinking "valves and rings" at the top, thinking I'd remembered a blue smoke story. Also, I probably would have tried the computer first, but it wasn't the issue, so there.

A great diagnostic program for pre OBD-II GM cars and trucks is WINALDL, and it is FREE for download off the internet, all that is needed to run the program is a simple cable to connect to the cars ALDL, and you can build the cable yourself with instructions off the internet, and use old win-98 laptop computer to display all the DATA simultaneously. I used WINAL when building my 1986 Monte Carlo SS, and also used it on my 1988 Chevy 2500 w/350 TBI, it saves a lot of headaches not having to fire off the parts cannon!!

Looking forward to the next video as my '86 TA has the same valve seat issue. It's been doing it for years but my car still idles beautifully (knock on wood).

Calculator watch, dope.

hey guys , i was remembering your video using cassette tape adaptors in old radios , you dont need that junk anymore . now you can use a cigarrette lighter adaptor to work blutooth between old stereos and mobile devices .

One thing that may help the smoke on startup issue is a high mileage oil as they contain additives that help moisturize, condition and essentially swell older dried out seals. Ive seen it work in some cases if the seals aren't super worn out.

I have an 89 with the mpfi v6, its been surging and even stalling sometimes, I've cleaned the IAC and replaced/adjusted the TPS. Hopefully cleaning the MAF or replacing the O2 sensor will fix this. Love these types of videos. Good luck on your valve stem seals

'Lovely stuff'. Not my words Michael. The words of Shakin Stevens

My Fiero has a similar TBI system. You CAN hook u a scantool to these older cars and read sensor readings, my favorite is the Snap On MT2500. It looks like the vacuum lines are original, do you have a vacuum gauge? Coolant temp sensor (ECM) and oxygen sensor would be my primary culprits at this point.

My 1996 Crown Vic 4.6 liter had almost 300k miles on it and it never burned or leaked oil. I ended up selling it a few days after advertising it for sale. My ‘97 Grand Marquis had close to 200k miles no oil burning or leaks, sold that one. Sold my ‘83 Grand Marquis with 5 liter EFI with around 150k miles.

Looks like he spent a lot of unnecessary money by firing the old parts canon!

You can do valve stem seals without pulling the heads. Put compressed air into the spark plug hole of the valves you want to replace, then when you take the springs off it'll hold the valve closed so you can do seals

Been a while since I've seen a video from you. Your whole voice and demeanour seems more relaxed since leaving China. Glad to see you have time to do cool little projects like this.

Change valve springs while you're in there.

You should do wet and dry compression tests, so you can know if your rings are in good or bad shape and it's worth dumping more money into the engine or not. If the car's compression is 130PSI, and it shoots up to 190-200 with a teaspoon of oil in the cylinder, then you know the rings are shot, but if it only jumps by 5-10PSI it's not too bad. One other thing that happens, that is sometimes solveable is rings get stuck by carbon buildup around the piston skirt. You can use Seafoam or B12 Chemtool or some other kind of solvent in each spark plug hole overnight to try to unstick the rings, but do it with the drain plug off so the solvent doesn't get into the oil and dissolve any gasket material and drains itself out overnight. Refill it with oil, crank the car to spit out any remaining solvent from the cylinders, then reinstall the plugs. If the engine doesn't show good compression imo it's not worth doing the stem seals, as you'd be putting more time and money after bad, you'd probably be better off limping it with a good high mileage motor oil like Valvoline Maxlife probably in 10w40 that could maybe swell the stem seals some again to cut oil consumption down, it being thicker would also possibly help out for compression, as thicker oil can compensate for worn rings.

I use to have a 91 trans am that was painted light blue. It smoked blue on start up and on heavy acceleration. My friends would ask me how I got my car to smoke the same color as the paint, that it looked cool! It was due to bad rings, so I just slapped a new 350 in place of the clapped out 305. It was really a fun car. If anyone is going to get a 3rd-4th gen F body, I would recommend to only get one with a stick shift. It makes them 10 times better/funner.

I had a 3.0 V6 Camry that overnight started getting 6 mpg and would barely idle . I scanned it and kept getting random lean codes on both banks even though the exhaust smelled like gas and it was smoking badly , it was obviously running extremely rich . Turned out to be the downstream o2 sensor , it had gone bad and was showing a maxed out lean condition all the time , but was not actually throwing any codes that would indicate a a problem there . What a pain that was to find .

Thanks for sharing this.

Finally got my 87 s10 running right after literally replacing every part that could be associated with bad mpg and hesitation. New spark plugs, c02 sensor, egr valve, all new vacuum lines, tps, air idle control valve, map sensor, rebuilt the throttle body, temp switch, tps switch, air filter..... other crap. All along it was the dam egr solenoid.

You are lucky. ! I got the 1983 with the crossfire injection

nice video on my 89 camaro i pulled the 305 and put a 327 in it that i had rebuilt myself very fun car now lol

I love your “Formula”! I’ve always wanted a “Trans Am” but I raised the bar and have a “ Corvette C6” and still I long for my parents once ’85 Trans Am” . Okay listen? Back then I had a brand new ‘89 Pontiac Le Mans” (yours a G.M. Pontiac -‘90) that did the exact same thing, it started to surge. I tracked it down to one defective spark plug wire. I don’t know if this helps but I wanted you to know! Rob

For what its worth, Check the leads for the ECM, they get hot on the TBI systems and cause corrosion inside the connectors. Using electrical cleaner will help connectivity. Replacing the computer should only be done after each connecter is cleaned and fails. 90% of my TBI work has discovered burned connectors and poor conductivity. Hard to see with the eye unless your looking for it.

4:20 Don't go in a automatic car wash if you remotly care about your paint !

So many times I see people just firing the parts cannon at these old EFI engines. GET AN OBD1 SCANNER! They are out there along with cables and software for a laptop. Check fuel pressure, learn to use a multi-meter. Do some actual diagnosis. You’ll save money and a lot of aggravation in the long run.

1986 Trans Am...1988 Camaro Z28 .......1989 Trans AM -GTA...I I always had a problem you always have to fix on them and work on them constantly but when you get them running rite watch out ...a super fun car to drive and will get side ways easy..just take your time to get it rite... Cheers

The idle controller is a stepper motor that screws and unscrews the plug to let air in or prevent air from coming in depending on throttle position. And the TBI system is incredibly reliable, almost bulletproof. They don’t make much power but can be setup for decent power. I just built an arduino based controller for a Tbi system using the Multec Injectors that gm used on the gas powered big blocks (GMC Kodiak Ex.) and a wideband 02 sensor, with a 91 octane tune it put down 278hp / 312tq. But any efi system from 30yrs ago is going to be a headache but overall the Rochester tbi systems are very good for what they are

Throttle body injection. My 89 Plymouth had the same sort of design. It had a really rapid spike of fuel when you touched the gas on it though. Made it a bit hard to drive.

I thought I heard a familiar voice, coming from your videos about China these are great!

For testing purposes an oxygen sensor can be replaced with a resistor, providing the same resistance as it gives for stoichiometric. This will affect consumption while cruising or idling though, since the defaults are safe values on the rich side. However, it will not affect consumption/mixture during acceleration, that is running in open loop, since o2 sensors are too slow. For this car, replacing the o2 sensor with a resistor would probably give it a consumption comparable to a carb.

Yeouch! My 1994 Suburban with a 5.7L 350 gets 12-14 mpg, and it's been modified with a 4-barrel carburetor!

Good grief. My 1988 Camaro IROC-Z 5.0 TPI used to get 27mpg. I thought that was bad.

21 mpg, couldnt stop laughing, 13 is about the best

you should do a compression test and also take a borescope to check the cylinder walls. If compression is better than at least 150 in all cylinders then you can borrow a compressor to allow valve stem seal replacement leaving the heads on. But this engine is so easy to work on. Might as well get a cherry picker and pull it out to work the block and add new bearings and rings.

Blue puff of smoke on startup - yup - just saw that on a recent episode of Wheeler Dealers; you're right, they changed those rubber "umbrella" seals over the valve stems. Instant cure. Good luck!

It's 5am and this pops up in my recommendations

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