Keep in mind when he talks about some inner tubes being lighter, that is only 0.1% of the benefit. The rest of the benefit comes from improved rolling resistance, as it takes significantly less energy to deform the latex or TPU tubes as you roll along. Its quite significant.
I absolutely adore my Assioma DUO power meter pedals. They have revolutionized the way that I ride and train while solo or in groups/events. They were dead simple to install and setup and I was riding in less than 20 minutes.
One more upgrade I just did is a lightweight saddle. I bought a 3D printed one for very little money that is more comfy than the Selle Italia I'd been riding and weighs about half. I'd already done most of the upgrades suggested, except the air tags. The wheels I did almost 20 years ago and maybe could be done again with the more recent aero carbon wheels. I keep it clean, changed the gearing, use TPU tubes, use good tires, have a power meter. No need for lights on my roadie, if I'm going to be out in the dark I use my commuter bike with dynamo lighting. And yet with all that I still keep looking at new bikes but don't believe it'll be worth it unless I go through that whole upgrade process again.
A decent carbon wheel set with good tyres was a game changer for me. I actually think there is no need to spend more for upgrades. I should just ride more.
If we're discussing gearing, perhaps you should preach more the advantages of subcompact cranksets (46/30, 48/31, 48/32), which are far more useful for average cyclists with sub-3W/kg FTPs than those idiotic yet ubiquitous 52-36. What is an amateur supposed to do with the high gears that are typically used by pro riders on sprints or 80+ km/h descents on closed roads?
I ride Evil Chamois Hagar with two wheelsets (DTSwiss GR1600 alu and Elitewheels G45 carbon) and a carbon road bike (SAVA). I love all your comments. They are spot on. I bought latex tubes but still did not change my last butyl tubes. I also like how tubeless is a lot less effort than I originally thought. Lastly I am also aiming to get a power meter but still waiting for a better price. Your video brings the most common upgrades into a nice package. In my opinion, even the order of them is very appropriate.
I though this was a great video for beginner/intermediate riders, thanks! I'm a recumbent rider and agree with you on everything you said, except for air tags - no one can ride away on my recumbent! 😅
I've implemented most of the upgrades on my 10 year old aluminium road bike and it still is competitive to most modern road bikes at 7.5 kg race-ready. My current upgrade which I'm still working on is an integrated carbon handlebar off Aliexpress so you might want to add that to your list. Cheers
Hi great video. I ride a 2020 Specialized Venge Pro SRAM Force etap. Would it be worth swapping out the crank arms for Red which will be 140 grams lighter at about $300 usd. Will I feel a difference climbing? THX
Îve done just that. All SRAM RED on my 2020 Venge. The cassette too: MASSIVE weight gains. Sram Red crankarms are stupid light. Keep the Force chainring. I’ve put the most recent SRAM FORCE/QUARQ chainring (the all black one) on the RED crankarms, perfect. The Force/Quarq chainring weighs THE SAME as the Red for half the price!! But the cassette (190g 10-28!!) and the Crankarms will shave a lot of weight. Both can be found under $300 if you look around hard
Great advice! I've been on the Orbea avant h30d for some time now and recently decided to upgrade to the Orca M30i (I live in Switzerland and endurance = hills). The thing is the stock wheels weigh quite a bit - and i don't know how to go about finding new wheels. What do i have to search for to find wheels that will fit the bike? It's all a bit confusing. Thanks to anyone who can help.
You wouldn't be able to get one with a different number of gears but you'll be able to get compatible chainrings and cassettes with different ratios (Be careful not to exceed your rear mechs maximum capacity)
@@giacomobiondo1471 Yes, the larger the cassette, the lower your gearing will be, which makes climbing easier, but in turn gives you larger jumps in gear ratios in between gears.
@@giacomobiondo1471 There are different cassettes within the Claris component range. I have "Claris 2400" with an 11-32 cassette on their normal rear mech and a 50-39-30 triple at the front. I think there's an 11-34 cassette with 50-34 "compact double" at the front which is almost the same total range. Count the teeth on the biggest and smallest ring at the front and the back to see what you currently have. Hope you find the ratios you want - and use a local bike shop if you can't swap everything over yourself. (Requires some specialist tools.)
