AMAZING WORK ! you are truly amazing ! As you said "you can't fix them all", but what I learned (and truly enjoyed learning) from this video has more value. The knowledge you have about electrical components make me wonder about your degree or previous work ?
It was very disappointing. This was the first PS5 I have been unable to fix. I did learn quite a bit though and now I have a donor board going forward. Thanks for stopping by!
This feels like backend software engineering; it’s often a game of whack-a-mole, finding the original problems and fixing the problems others created in their efforts, just have to stay determined and keep at it. Very tedious 😅
@@ToltecMerc I’ve been very selective about which ones I obtain. I’ve had to do 3 PS4 Pro fuse replacements, replaced PSUs, HDDs, etc. One PS5 had crashing and artifacts, replaced the motherboard, that was costly. The only one I have left on the bench is a PS4 Pro that will not power the optical drive even with a new drive, fuses, and ribbon cables 😖 I don’t replace chips with the equipment I have.
Thank you for the very informative video, I always look forward to your next one... Quick question about the waveform from the crystal I have seen you measure a few times. Where do you measure this? (I have tried pausing the video to try and work out where your probe is, but not sure), and what are your scope settings? Also will this waveform be present with just the battery inserted or does the power lead need to be plugged in and turned on first? Thanks again and much appreciated!
I am measuring directly at the 32kHz crystal. There are two test pads you can probe on. I use the X10 setting on the probe for higher input impedance as it doesn't take much to load down the oscillator. It will be present if the battery is installed on the board without any other power.
I have a board with exactly the same symptoms. Interestingly, when power is turned on and 1.8v is injected from the bench power supply to that pin, it will start. However, all USB ports are not recognized. Apparently it seems to be a signal line that controls power sharing to the USB port. All I know is this.
You can see right away that encoder is off center real bad. Do you prefer low melt or regular solder for tinning your encoder? This board was a mess huh,? Geesh.. did you ever check the 5v(5leg)transistor (I think it's called) it's labeled 15jL.. that one can cause issue and the 3v (3leg) one that's next to it... They're both next to the HDMI port
I only use low melt for removal of ports and some ICs. I tin with some good leaded solder. I did not get to check the 15JL ic. I think that would only make a difference after power on when it would be supplying 5V to the HDMI port pin 18.
Wow as I said you the master of master professional electronics guru 👏 Well done and you are so cool fault finding I always enjoy your professional videos🙏🙏🙏 and I don't have play stations I think I have one play station 4 which comes with hard drive errors and throwaway in my garage 😢😢 and you the master guru 😀 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏😀😀😀😃😃😃on the all internal and no one can beat you 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😀😀😀😀😀😇
