I really enjoyed your video… thanks so much for explaining the math and then the results were right on point!! Your way of explaining was also great, straight to the point! Thanks again!!
With these cars in these years all you really had to do was look at the solder on the back and see if there was any cold solder or cracks at the joints. Resolder them and wahlah it would have fixed the problem. Done this many times on these Honda and Acura cars. known for failure in the sensors with poor soldering. Always check that first
It can be done I've done it already I have a EM1 SI cluster in my 98 Civic. RPMs were about 200 too high in the upper range. Pull the cluster and the tach then turn the variable resistor o the tachometer counterclockwise very little and was able to get it spot on but this was through trial and error taking the cluster apart manytimes to get it accurate
@mawfactor7283 Trying get the same to work with the Arduino. Do you have any info on the resistor values you did use or a schematic available? Luv your work thanx
Hey was wondering if you can help me out with my ek tacho, there's no potentiometer on it and I want to change the resistor to allow me to run a 10k rpm face and read correctly.just not sure how to calculate which is the correct resistor to change aswell as what ohm size
What is the input voltage (not the frequency input) you're supplying to the gauge at the IGN and GND inputs? 12V? 5V? Do you think it would hurt / change the output of the gauge if I supplied it with 14.8V? Also, it looks like you're using 50% duty cycle - is this correct or does it really matter? I really appreciate this video - looking forward to getting my tachometer working right again!
I can't confirm if 14.8V will work as I have only used 12V. I am using the power source from my computer. You are correct on the duty cycle of my signal at 50%.
Hey man is there any way you could help me out with my civic rpm gauge? It was reading low just as you are describing here, so I soldered in a new capacitor(same one you did because it was leaking) and now the gauge won't read above like 5k rpm. The idle rpm is fixed, it used to read like 600 at idle now it is right at 1000. The lower range seems to be correct, but it just stops around 5k, even though any engine is tuned to rev to 8400 rpm.
Hey do you know if the Speedometer has the same potentiometer? I have a 94 civic and mine read about 7 miles more than it should, do you recommend to replace all the caps just in case? Thanks!
Hey thanks for the video. It actually helped me make some progress on my current tach issue but I’m not quite there yet. My problem is that I have a V6 engine swapped on to my civic which cluster is for its original 4cyl engine. Now I have an RPM discrepancy that increases as the RPM goes up. Would you know how to modify the tach so that it can read the right amount of pulses per cycle from the v6. It would be great if you can make such a video since there isn’t anything on RU-vid of anyone addressing this issue.
Refer back to beginning of the math and substitute 100 rpm = 300 pulses per min for a V6 engine or 1 rpm = 3 pulses per min. The math should work out to 20×Hz = rpm.
@@mawfactor7283 Math works, but how do I transfer that math onto my tach? 😅 I don’t have a scope machine like you or a computer program to send Hz values on comand. I did adjust potentiometer counter clock wise as my car was at idle, but then I maxed out on the dial and I’m still 200RPM more then true RPM. Do you think I can ship you my tach? That would be AMAZING!
