that was the first track load I ever learned to run. I was 14 at the time and that thing seemed huge. You will have to be careful as those old thing are extremely heavy on the front with the motor and with a full bucket of dirt it will get stuck in a heart beat with those narrow track pads! if she ever starts to sink its time to just dump the bucket and use it to float yourself out. that's a heavy girl and it wont take much to bury it with all this rain. but on hard ground it will push the hinges off hell in 1st gear! oh yeah your legs will hurt after you run those brake clutches all day lol
I think all of the front motor highlifts you can stand on their noses pretty easy. Ran an 855 John Deere for a few years and owned one for a couple. Was always my favorite piece of equipment to run. The guy I worked for had push pans, self loaders, dozers, grander, backhoe but never owned excavators. Would have liked to have had the opportunity to run one of them. Only use a couple of mini's that I rented.
When my Uncle allowed me to use his 450C John Deere crawler the first thing he told me was to be vigilant about watching for trees coming into the cab and impaling me. Said that to say the expanded metal around the work station is a great idea and even though the 450C had work station protection it wasn't uncommon for smaller tree limbs and trunks coming towards me as I worked. It sounds like you are really excited about the new Cat and I'm sure the rest of us can't wait to see smoke pluming out of the exhaust pipe. Daily updates are great and we appreciate the fact that you always try to accommodate us with them.
+jbmbanter or if by misfortune a branch finds its way up against a control lever, the pressure from the advancing loader will make the machine uncontrollable. That's why side screens whould be a good idea.
When welding the bucket, if it is hardened steel it won't hurt to pre heat the area. If there is a lot of carbon in it then when it heats fast and cools fast the iron ion release the carbon ions and make it brittle. I recommend (purely my opinion if I was doing it) grooving out the crack, pre heat the weld area to 400-450*f and welding with 7018 rod. It may take multiple passes so check the temp between welds and don't let it drop below 400. Get it welded up then heat it to 450 again immediately after welding and burry it in sand, put sand under it and a heavy layer over it to let it cool slowly. This should prevent brittleness and cracking. Things you'll need -$15 infrared thermometer -5# of 1/8" 7018 welding rods (KEEP DRY) -A lot of sand Any questions shoot me a message
The Cutting edge can be welded effectively with 7018... Repaired many over the years in my welding business.. when you make the first torch cut it will likely spring back in place.. bevel both sides and leave a small root opening. called a double V groove weld. one pass each side and it won't require an extra plate..
I agree......V groove both sides before welding then fill in the grooves.......also agree with heating it with a torch you'll likely get that dreaded PING as your welds pop!
cool project good time to clean it all up maybe some paint even on the cheap like rust primer and paint it's always nice to work on a clean rig and it will last longer
don't put the forestry bars on they get in the way just put the expanded metal around the cab and a good idea for that is drill and tap it to where you can take them on and off easy hope you have a good new year
kick ass project! i have a 215 cat excavator sitting in the backyard that i picked up for a joke of a price, might have to get ambitious and get her back together!
Good luck. I just fired up my old d6c after sitting for ten years. it went super well and proceeded to do some logging. All it needed was a couple new batteries. I didn't even drain the fuel.
+onelonleyfarmer don't fuck with the loader to much we just had to rebuilt the motor on are case track loader and its not hard to get off but it's a pain in the ass to get back on
As for welding the bucket-blade... I used to pre-heat the parts (and just to be sure, back when it was my few first experiment, use a heat-pen to verify it was appropriately heated) , weld without over doing it, meaning; weld a couple of passes then let it rest under insulation clothe/fibre-glass pads. Repeat the process until done. And leave it covered until next day. One day a client came in a tractor lift-bar. After the job was done, the client wanted to take the piece home right-away (in the winter at -30C and get on in the wood to finish his lumber day). I told that there was no warranty on the job if he did so and to come pick it up only the next day..... My boss came around to see what was happening.... And he told the client I was right ;)
Wes on 400* pre heat i agree but i have done alot of welding on cutting edges of large buckets.7018 just won't cut it get a box of 11018 they are alot closer to the steels hardness for the pre heat if you don't have a heat gun you can get heat pencils of different temps they will mark when the steel reaches the temp displayed on the pencil and finally you can slow the cooling rate by covering it top and bottom with just some common pink insulation top and bottom if you v it out good i see no need for the extra plate it may cause more trouble then good the cutting edge does need to flex on a bucket of that width hope this helps.
GE large diesel engines are taken back to the depot in either Erie or Grove City PA no matter if the engine grenaded and sent parts thru the side casing. They pay the freight also. There may be a Cat depot somewhere or aftermarket engine facility that wants the old core so they can sell a reman to somebody else.
I bought a wreck once having been told the motor was seized and found it was ok and had a starter that had rusty solinoid and had stuck on blowing the armature apart in the housing. So check it all before you tear it apart. I know you would any how. thats just for everyone else.
I have not done any cutting edge welding in twenty years and then only with a stick welder but in those days cutting edge steel was so hard that it could only be welded in short stitches to prevent it from getting to hot and breaking out right beside the weld, I never happened to ask a real welder weather that problem could be alleviated by preheating and post heating the edge or if doing so would compromise the integrity of the edge itself or since I have never used one but have been told that wire feed welders don't create the heat like a stick welder the problem may not be as serious with a wire feed welder.
+onelonelyfarmer : Hey Wes, that's a sweet deal that you found a replacement engine for the 'ol girl so easily. As the saying goes, "Rather get lucky than be good, any day." LOL! Since scrap is so far down, perhaps you can talk them out of more of that parts Cat machine while you are picking up the engine? Might just be worthwhile. Anyhow... Happy New Year to you, Tim, and everyone else in the Pandy family, from Andy & Deb in upstate NY!
The motor is easy to come out you need to drop both belly pans the motor is coupled to the transmission with rubber pucks in between two drive flanges. There are shims under the motor mounts you have to be careful to note how many there are under each mount. The nose cone on your machine doesn't have the horns cast on to it for sweeps. The 955 I ran had forestry guarding on it.
Why didn't you pickle that old engine...two or three quarts if trans fluid and a quart of PB Blaster in a couple gallons of kerosene fuel. Fill it to the top and let it set for a month...then drain it and crank it over. You could probably sell it at that point...running. save that pickle mix run threw cheese cloth packed funnel and run it in your other diesels...it will clean them right up....
Farmers welding cracks me up. I don't know how many times I've been called out to a farmers place to fix something to find he tried to weld it and just fucked it up real bad.
what michael owen said but pre heat it before you weld it put in a root pass grind out the top of the weld both sides and then a capping pass dress as nessary
With the cost of fuel going down, I seriously doubt the price of scrap will ever skyrocket like it did some time ago. Yes I could be mistaken. Yet the reason it went up last time was from people like India and China making cheap cars that all their people could afford. The demand for steel shot up and there wasnt enough supply to meet the demand. That was then, this is now. With the cost of fuel in free fall, so are many other prices. Good for you to be able to get a replacement motor. Will you do a tear down of the old one to find out why it seized?? I look forward to the vids next week. Oh and happy new year to you and all the rest of you youtubers.
True, but with mesh and the seating the camera makes it so much easier to see behind you and allowing you to still watch the bucket. In tight areas that's a big plus.
Has nothing to do with being lazy. The idea is that the camera allows you to watch both ends of the dozer at the same time. Nothing like looking back and hooking something up front because you didn't see it. As for me I can't turn my head father than about 20 degrees, fused vertebrae in the neck due to an earlier injury.
main thing is BE careful. around that loader frame even with the lock in place the older guys that I worked at McAllister machinery in Indiana didn't call the early track loaders widow makers for nothing put channel or angle iron on the cylinders for safety
Old 13-18ton excavator with guillotine head would be the best solution in that kind of work. When you first get rid of all those trees and then fill the ditch up.
hi wes ref loader on cat could you remove hoses from lift ram circuit and fit longer pipes .plug into a tractor and raise the loader up lock it safe and work on engine .done this in the past and saves hour of work . even buy adapter connectors if needed very cheep and borrow hoses of another machine far better than trying to lift it out of the way and safer
You would probably better off to take the bucket off and repair it then, it much easier to preheat. You should take off the dump cylinders makes makes life easier when you do the engine swap. If you can borrow an over head rolling derrick to lift the engines it also make the job easier and safer.
Hi Wes why don't you go get the whole parts machine if the costs not to much to go get it. I think scraps going to be low for a few years,and Cat parts are expensive 1 part might save you the whole cost if you need it. I love the I don't know what I'm doing comment. Half the battle of being a good mechanic, is having half an idea of the machine process . Like what goes in, what should happen in the middle, and what should come out when it works right. The other is looking confident when you pull something apart you have never done. Then when the springs balls and other shit hits the roof or floor,being able to find a parts picture, to show you what you lost on the floor and under the bench to be able to put it together and get it to work right. Wishing you guys a happy new year from MB Canada looking forward to 2016 video's
+David Harris Hi I work with this old stuff ,so know what used or new parts cost. if wes could pick that other loader up for say $1500, then in a while found he needed a transmission thats worth $4000 or even say a ram at 1500 used, he made money as it only cost him $1500 and still has more parts he can use if needed or scrap it later. It's exactly how a parts wrecking yard works and makes money. I look at it as cheap insurance for a parts supply, if you can buy the other unit cheap. I do it here with a couple of unusual machines I run, and one part is hard to find or worth big money the day you want it. The half the battle comment is also one of those things a guy understands that works in a multi brand repair shop, and he's not trained in every machine from all brands on a farm or job. Say I have to fix a JD. There might not be a service book available for me to buy. I'm taking the work from a JD shop they sure aren't going to give me the help I need in most cases just sell me the parts. just look at the tool Wes needed for the 6200 they told him to get lost basically. So i got to pull this thing apart like Wes did and figure it out on my own and even build tools. If i'm lucky I can get online parts pictures. Take the machine apart figure the problem out and make the machine work right when it goes back together. The computer stuff on tractors/anything else is making it impossible for us as the software is dealer only and we can't get any of that stuff, without being the official dealer or repair shop .
Happy new year thanks for videos what plans for new year any new kit on farm bailer tractors what going on with combine sorry if people keep on about it love the combine videos
If the fellow selling the engine has a 955 body he's planning to sell for scrap, perhaps it has a shovel in good condition that you could buy to replace the broken one on yours.
the crack issue v it out press into place use 7018 ,8018 th or palco. 700 rod pre heat then weld the v alternating sides top bottom. then relieve by peening. reheating and bury it in floor dry to cool slowly or insulwool if available. cats factory steel is not your normal steel they had a saying built to be rebuilt
That's a lucky break finding another engine relatively close to home! From what you have said about this machine a replacement engine sounds like the sensible way to go in these circumstances. Perhaps it might be wise to check as far as possible if there are any other parts you might need that might be purchased at a sensible price at the same time? eg I think you said the previous owners said that they overheated it - could your radiator be partially blocked / damaged?
just wondering....did you try to turn the motor over yourself? Maybe pull the glow plugs and try in case it is hydro-locked? Thanks for all you do for your fans!! Ramble on!
Have you ever checked out Fazzio's steel in Glassboro ? Ive heard they have a huge selection of surplus steel and construction epquipment. You can also check with them online. Ive only been to their site in Delaware...nice site for metal supplies at a reasonable price...including large size nuts and bolts.
