'96-'00 Toyota Rav4 Stuck in Park, No Cluster Lights: Replace 100 Amp Alternator Fuse Fusible Link 

Hey, cool! Yeah, cars don't seem to care "who" works on them -- just "how well" that person does the work (and physics doesn't favor one group over any other, haha). Us ladies even have an advantage working on Toyotas and most modern cars, too, because we typically have smaller, more dexterous hands, and engine bays these days can be pretty tight! : ) Thanks for watching, and for your comment, and good luck with your repairs!

Thank you for watching! : )

Wow, I'm so glad the video helped -- Great job on DIY'ing for yourself! Thanks for your comment : )

Yes, there's discussion on the rav4world.com forums about upgraded alternators, including the 90 Amp alternators, and it is not a bad upgrade, especially if you have increased electrical demand. Though the 80 Amp alternators are fine, too, if you haven't added anything requiring a significant power draw. I think the Carquest alternators have a lifetime warranty, too (not positive about that though, so you check with AAP). One tip you might consider -- if your local Advance has an alternator testing machine, you can have them test the new alternator on the spot when you pick it up. That way, if there is a problem, you can swap it right there, before installing it (this is an especially helpful preventative check on any alternators that are difficult to reach!). I hope that helps -- good luck : )

@@L35inColorado Great advice I never would have thought about. Thank you so much for the tip. I am grateful for your taking the time to answer, and will definitely have it checked. Do not want to do this install twice. Unfortunately, Auto Zone ran out of fusible links. Timing is everything. Everyone is buying used RAV 4's !! Thank GOD Toyota still has all 3 available. Would rather pay a little more than not have them at all. Your info is THE BEST !

Wow, that's cool -- great job on your DIY and I'm glad the video helped! : )

I'm so glad it helped -- great job on repairing your Rav4 DIY! : )

Wow, that's interesting -- thanks for sharing!

Haha! Thanks for watching : )

@@L35inColorado You may sound like Michael a bit, but that is not a bad thing! Thanks for not taking offense. Cheers from Motown!

@@robertclymer6948 I wish I could dance like MJ could!

Well done! Rav4's are great cars -- and they are good cars to DIY. Thanks for your comment :)

Thanks for watching!

Haha, yes -- bolted fuses are always a surprise (and not a good surprise). I'm glad the video helped -- good luck with your repair!

Haha, thanks, and thanks for watching! : )

Haha, I'm glad the video helped! : )

Thanks for subscribing and for your comment! : )

Thanks for watching! : )

Thanks for your comment, that's very kind -- I'm glad the video helps! Good luck with your repair :)

Thank you :)

Thanks -- good luck with your repair!

Thanks for watching! : )

Nice - thanks for watching! : )

After a new battery alternator and starter at local shop your video helped fix the actual problem

Yes, that's correct -- it is a safety fuse that protects the ECM and other components. Thanks for watching!

That's wonderful - great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )

Do you still have your RAV4?

I'm sorry that's happening for you -- check the alternator belt tension before you replace the alternator (a slipping belt can simulate a faulty alternator). You can take the alternator to Advance Auto or Autozone and they will test the alternator for free. It does sound like you have a blown fusible link from what you're describing. The fusible link in the '03 Rav4 is different than the one shown here, and it comes as a block. Check this thread out, as it describes your same situation and shows the part (fusible link block): www.rav4world.com/threads/lost-power-to-gauges.177705/ Open your block up and see if you have one or more blown links. In an emergency, sometimes people solder a broken link, but really you want to replace the link with the new part, because the links are designed to blow at a certain amperage, and you can't be so sure about what amperage a random jerry-rig fix might take, haha. If you have a junkyard nearby, you can probably get the whole block for $10 or $15; if not, then it looks like they sell for about $50: www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM-TOYOTA-RAV-4-2001-2002-2003-BLOCK-ASSY-FUSIBLE-LINK-8262042040-/163269993199 Double-check that part number with your Toyota dealer. Be sure to ascertain that you actually have a blown link before you buy a new block (it sounds like you do!). Disconnect the battery before working on the alternator, then replace the alternator (if that's your problem), then replace the block and hook up the battery, being mindful of the connections. Good luck!

Thank you for the quick reply! The fusible link is blown. Going to try the soldering technique if I can't find a new link box today. Also, I'm going to take the alternator in to get tested just to be sure. Again, I appreciate the rapid thorough help!

Thanks for watching! : )

If you have your OEM cables but the terminals are bad, then you can buy new terminals and just bolt them on -- you can use marine terminals, or even get the original Toyota terminals, if you'd like. If you have to replace the cables themselves, then you can buy replacements or make your own, but you'll want to use a very good end crimper if you make your own. Good luck!

Gracias! : )

I just bought a 1997 4 door fwd RAV4 with 130,000 miles. It had 3 flat tires, dead battery, exhaust leak , no rust and a clean interior. Learning about all the maintenance work . Your videos are excellent 👍👍👍. I paid 500.00 dollars for it . They just wanted it out of the carport. Thanks again for the your time and effort. New subscriber here😎

I'm sorry I missed your second comment -- that is a GREAT deal! I would have jumped on that deal myself, too. Automatic or manual? I think Rav4's are great vehicles to learn to work on because the parts are easy to find online and at junkyards, and there's nothing too exotic or unusual. Great find, and thanks for your comment!

@@L35inColorado It’s an automatic...,really clean . There are a few small parts missing . I’d been keeping an eye on the car for a couple of months. The week before I bought the car I saw one in the scrapyard and went back to the yard the day after I bought the car and it was already scrapped🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Thanks again for the Great videos 👍👍👍

@@jacklandismcgowan1413 Very cool! Hey, if you have "LKQ" or "U-Pull & Pay" yards in your area, you can sign up for automatic emails and when a car you want shows up, they will send you a message. Good luck and nice find!

@@L35inColorado thanks for the heads up 👍😎

I'm sorry that's happening: - what year is your Rav4, and is it manual or auto? - what was the exact reason for replacing the alternator in the first place? Here's some items to check in the meanwhile: - make sure you have the alternator belt tensioned properly - you can see an alternator install here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TbOr7gvqSqc.html - make sure you battery connections are good and tight

@@L35inColorado well I bought this 97 rav4 automatic with 141k miles it was running fine it turned on with no hesitation then about 2 weeks went by and I went to turn it on and the battery was completely dead I went and got both my alternator and battery tested at autozone the battery passed but the alternator didnt so I replaced it with a 80amp denso remanufactured alternator so now I go to crank it and it'll just crank like it wants to turn on you can hear it fire when I apply some gas but it wont stay on i made sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. I did notice that the alternator fusible link is a 120 not a100amp but I dont believe that would be the problem since the car turned on just fine before I'm still going to replace it with the right one though I did pull the ignition coils just to inspect them while I was waiting for my alternator to arrive and struggled a little to put the 4th one back but I managed so I'm dont think that's the problem im going to check my fuses now and see if maybe any of them are blown

Yes, I would think more along the lines of a loose connection. I'd check out the terminals at the battery, the battery cables, and the engine grounds, but also I would consider the belt -- the alternator is run by a belt, and a slipping belt will cause the alternator to do all kinds of strange things! A slipping belt can be caused by the belt itself (for example, the inside is old and stripped, or oily, etc), or by the belt tension adjustment bolt (the belt might not be tight enough). The alternator itself could be an issue, too, but ruling out the belt, the belt tension, and engine grounds/battery would be my first checks, since those are easier and cheaper to repair. If all of those check-out, then I would remove the alternator and have it bench-tested: auto parts shops like Advance Auto or Autozone will test your alternator for free -- some of them can even do it while the alternator is in the engine bay (ie, you don't need to remove it), which is very convenient! I have an Advance Auto in my area that can do that, so that's something to consider (not all of them can do it, but maybe you can call ahead). I hope that helps -- good luck!

Yep, I'd check the battery and alternator, and check the tension on the belt (a loose belt can cause power issues), and also the inside of the belt to be sure its not worn out and causing slip. A slipping belt can cause the alternator to fail. Good luck!

@@L35inColorado Thanks!

Yes, good point!

Oh man, I got the brushguard over 20 years ago when the Rav4 was new; the one you see here is by Manik. I think the only brand that is still available new is made by Black Horse, and it is quite similar. Sometimes they pop up on eBay or craigslist. I hope that helps!

@@L35inColorado thanks!

Can you start it at all?

No , totally no power on the dash. After getting it towed , we tried to jump charged it but there were sparks when we tried putting the - clamp. I checked the 100amp fusable link seems to be ok on visual , no metal separation.

@@HonDaPursuit It sounds like you a have a few things happening - the rattling noises and smoke aren't something that an electrical issue would typically cause on their own. What you're describing with the rattling and smoke sounds like an engine issue - did the engine overheat? (If the engine overheated and you saw white smoke, you might have a failed head gasket) If the engine didn't overheat, then I'd verify that you don't have a loose timing belt. Remove the timing case covers and check the timing belt, tensioner spring, tensioner, pulley, and sprockets and verify the timing using the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets (there's a timing belt video on this channel if you need info on that). If timing is good and you can get it to crank, then I'd check compression. As it is right now, can you get it to crank at all?

@@L35inColorado so far I got a misdiagnosed alternator. I’m now looking at the Starter Relay , Ignition Switch or NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH . Will update just for information , its electrical hard to pinpoint and guess. One thing for sure no battery voltage when keys are switched on.

Thanks for watching! : )

Ah man, I'm sorry that happening -- as a quick check (though it seems unlikely), verify that the ALT-S fuse (5A) in the fuse box (engine bay, left strut tower) isn't blown. Next, I would check the connections at the alternator, including the wiring and cable. From there, I would check all the engine grounds. Are you getting any codes, or just a no charge at the battery? (I ask because if you're getting any sensor codes, that could also indicate a bad ground, and might help indicate which ground to check). You mention that you're not getting a battery light, even though it's not charging: can you see the battery light come on when you just turn the key to the ON position (not start)? (I'm asking to verify that the battery light bulb & circuit is working: it should illuminate in the ON position and turn off after the engine starts). Did you have any charging issues before the engine swap? If not, are you re-using your old main wiring harness or did you swap in the harness of the new engine?

Sorry I missed your comment -- I am a woman.

@@L35inColorado ah, Merry Christmas

@@morphius747 Merry Christmas!

You're welcome -- thanks for watching! : )