Hello, you are doing great job showing people this stuff! I have one question please respond if you know. So my 1999 CRV is also converted to manual and yesterday I reinstalled the ECU, it was still automatic transmission ECU and I installed 1999 manual ECU and one last jack didn't fit in so I left it that way and the car started without a problem... Is there a chance that it will drain accumulator or is it just by chance that it was drained?
@@savage_creations Yeah right, an automatic ECU has 4 plugs and all of my car plugs fit in but when I changed the ECU to manual one of the plug didn't fit so I left it unplugged because it didn't even have those spikes like an automatic one and I want to know if the battery can be drained because of it
Just to be clear an automatic ECU has four connectors (A, B, C, D) and all of them have spikes and a manual ECU has spikes in three of them (A, B and C) and the last one (D) doesn't have and the plug doesn't even fit because of its form so it has no function
@@savage_creations I didn't change it and I don't know if the previous owner who converted the transmission to manual had changed it but would it work this way then?
Hey nice video my friend. But i got some questions, so you unse the engine and transmission harness that goes to the ecu right, and you just swap the cluster harness? Or everything from the fire wall
Hi I decided to replace my auto engine harness for a manual harness just to remove the extra clutter. The problem im having now is that the key is stuck in the switch and won't start, the key won't pull out of the switch either. What did I miss?
I'm assuming you did a auto to manual swap. So you need to make sure the start wires are jumped at the original auto assembly on the column and you need to remove the lock from the ignition lock.
@@savage_creations I've read that 3 wires need to be spliced and connected to eachother to bypass the neutral switch? Do you know the location and colors of those wires? Thanks
@@savage_creations I figured out the key situation. I removed the little box on the cylinder housing that locks the key, problem solved! Now all I need to do is locate those two wires you're referring to, do you know where they're located specifically? Thanks
@@kelvinparedes9583 I used a manual dash harness do I didn't need to do anything but you gotta use the electrical connection that went to the auto shift selector and connect the 2 thick wires together(will start without pressing in the clutch pedal). Or run them down to the clutch switch(clutch pedal will need to be pressed down to start)
What is connector "D" for on the manual ecu? I just had this swap done and am having some issues. It idles normal when cold (1500 to 2000rpm) but when warm sits at 550rpm, goes down to 200rpm when stopping then Joe's back to 550. My clock sometimes works normal but suddenly blurs or goes out completely, sometimes it fluctuates with the accelerator? Strange. Fan takes longer to go on, so I notice my temperature gauge go above normal, when I rev it it goes down, temperature sensor? After a week of driving it for no reason it wouldn't start when I went out for food, got back in the car and nothing no crank? I had just replaced the thermostat and some coolant got on the engine harness, I sprayed brake cleaner all over to wipe it off. I had to jump start it to get home. Today this morning it started right up like nothing happened? It's puzzling. The guy who did the swap for me left connector "D" disconnected from the ecu since the auto plug doesn't go in, is it a necessary connection or do I need a manual pigtail for it? I would appreciate the help thanks.
If its auto most likely not needed. I changed dash harness and honestly cant remember because I am k series now. The clock is probably due to vibration the solder points crack in these
@@savage_creations It's strange because the clock wouldn't do that before, I already pulled it out and it's connected properly and today it's behaving completely normal. The fan is taking long to kick in, you think it's a sensor or wiring issue? It would kick in frequently when just sitting, now it doesn't which makes my temperature gauge go above normal.
@@savage_creations Yes I clocked it sitting through the two tabs. You I've been on this for the last 4 hours and everything is normal right now, I'm pleased but not too confident considering what happened. Fans are even kicking in on time now, temperature gauge is not going above half way, and the clock is not disappearing on me. It makes no sense, unless this is normal somehow? Only thing now is I was testing the AC and there's a clunking coming and going, I can hear the relay ticking through the fuse box, and the condenser fan isn't turning on? Btw thanks for the feedback.
Double check all grounds. You probably had air pockets causing the heat up but no fans. Will ac there can be multiple things honest. Best bet would be have hooked up to a ac machine
I gotta drive 200 miles to get the parts... So, about how long does it take to perform the swap? As I live in my car, so, it'll be a strategy to get done.
Just a auto to manual conversion "if" you have everything and correct tools and know how should be no more than a day. I'm partially crippled and just did things a few hrs at a time and I think it took me 3 days
@@alecfleming373 besides cracking the case open and inspecting spin the input shaft and wiggle it up and down for play or loud spinning. Also go through gears should be too difficult to do
I'm doing the same swap on my 99' crv soon, I've gathered all the parts except for the rear heater duct and a manual starter. Can the heater duct I have be modified to work or do I definitely need one from a 5spd crv? Also in other crv forums I've never seen the starter needed for the swap, is this true? Thanks
Honestly I cant recall. I believe IF you want rear lower heater you will need the proper duct because I think it was way different as for the starter I've definitely seen alot of them that are not compatible between the two. Look on a honda parts website and compare parts numbers it's the easiest
@@savage_creations I'm going to have a look thank you very much. Thought I had to do something to that big dizzy looking plug that went to the auto trans.
How much did it cost you to swap ?I have a 01 auto with 150000 miles and I’ve already put a little bit of money in it changing the belts, water pump and coil overs do you think it’s worth it money wise to sell my auto an try to find a manual or should I go for the swap
Honestly I dont remember exactly because it's now k series and I want to say parts were like 700 from a junkyard. If you have some money go k series it's worth it and then do the conversion while going k series then sell your old swap and recoup some cash
@@savage_creations appreciate it yea I’m not really trying to put that much money in to it rn because I’m trying to get a civic or integra soon to have as like my main build but I definitely want to manual swap the crv one of these days an maybe a turbo on it lol how much does a k swap usually cost though if you just go fwd
@@Ce1_Samurai if you junkyard hunt it can be relatively inexpensive. I did my first one for a few thousand. Stuff is getting more expensive though. If you ever want to start planning hmu and I can share ways to save alot of $$
I cant say I had to but when I gathered parts I grabbed it too since it didn't add to the price so I installed it. But idk if I would of had to, I've heard of others not using it.
On the engine side, how easy was it (starter, transfer case, etc.)? Cause my auto trans is about to give up. (98" B20B 4spd auto, 4WD 135k miles) Was it most likely a plug & play situation?
The hardest part is (if you choose to do it) installing the dash harness, then pulling carpet to install shifter mount(weld or bolt in). Everything else pretty much just bolts in place. It's pretty easy. Took me a week or so because I had to buy stuff I didnt have or wanted nicer parts.
@@kingazhar1212 I am not too familiar with those but I'd assume yes cuz auto would run weird if at all. So either ecu with matching immobilizer ring and key or ecu then get key programmed to it.
@@savage_creations ok thanks. I just did one and just finishing up final things to be able go get exhaust done. How did you get key to stop getting stuck? Cause rn I have to push on lil lock deal on ignition to be able get key out without disconnecting battery.
