Just did this job this weekend. For others, make sure those bracket bolts are tight! That completes a large part of the dash ground and the vehicle will malfunction with the ground not strong. Trust me. All good now.
Thanks for the video. Had to do this several years back on a 2nd generation dakota I owned then. I recently bought another gen 2 really cheap for a work truck that had primarily been used for farm and hunting and, among many, many other things, it also needs a new heater core. What I've learned from near 25 years building auto parts manufacturing machines and production lines is that after a vehicle has stopped being produced or has a major design change, companies are required to make parts for 10 more years. After that time is up and a part is no longer used in new vehicles, after market companies buy the tooling and continue to make the parts. They may tweak the tooling, if possible, to make one part fit as many different vehicles as possible so they don't have to make a lot of different ones which is why somtimes, as with your core, parts may not fit perfectly. Sometimes you may notice several different part numbers for the same part. That is one reason why. Also, your old core should be copper; not brass. Anyway, thanks for the video. I needed a refresher before I dive in head first. Just looking at that mess already had me dreading it. Lol.
À thank you for making this video it's very important for me I was trying to find information on where the parts were at inside my 97 Dodge Dakota Sport air conditioning/ heater blower compartments where I was getting no air I think it was mixing coming outside it's barely just trickling out the vents I was thinking of the door now maybe vacuum I'll let you know if I find out. And again thank you again compartment
👍 Thankyou very helpful. I have to do this in my 2002 dakota. What name if the autoparts store you bought heatercore from? Is there easy to remove. If i try backflush heatercore would water burst through it spray all over. If heatercore failed prior coolant went on carpet both sides driver and passenger. How many hours was dashboard removal and how long for install of dash.
I take the steering column out to do this, so much easier to remove/install dash. Also the blower resister is normally serviced from under the wiper cowl -remove the wiper arms, the cowl cover then reach in to remove the 2 screws that hold it in. No need to remove dash but since yours is out replace the resistor as it is right there. The hidden nut behind the trans dipstick tube is tough but I use a 1/4 swivel with a 10 inch extension to get the nut loose then I can get my fingers on it to remove it. I just did my 2000 Durango XLT [rear a/c and rear heat ] A 10 hour job for just 1 person .....
Your welcome Patrick, But I later found out that you can access the resister through the cowl area where the wiper linkage is as well. Hope you saw this before pulling out your dash.
I cut my box to get the heater core out just used a dremel and some time like 1hr worth of cutting and got it out . Used metal tape to repair what I cut out and heater works great don't recommend this at all lol I dont use the ac just the heater that's why I went to the extreme to just cut instead of salvaging the whole unit
Good job. But this is only for the pre facelift gen2 Dakota gen1 Durango. The facelift model (01-up) is completely different. The blower motor and it’s resistor are easily accessible from under the glove box in the passenger foot well.
Hey thank you for the video. I have a question. Does the Dakota have two heater cores or what is the one on the left when your explaining that the aftermarket heater core doesn’t exactly fit
The reason it didn’t fit right is because you probably needed the smaller one dodge put two different sized heater cores in that model of trucks one is 5/8” thick the other is 2” thick
Good to know, Unfortunately that's the one they gave me. Although the instructions that came with the core said to trim the box to fit. Must be meant to fit numerous applications.
Yes, that is most likely. But the condensation drain could also be clogged. I'm guessing your running your a/c. You can blow some compressed air up the drain tube. Most vehicles have one on the passenger side very low on the fire wall or the front edge of the floor board. If your running a/c and you don't see water dripping under the vehicle the drain is likely clogged.
@@robbieraychannel thanks I have been running the AC. I know it was draining last month but haven't checked it lately. I'll give it a look. Thanks again.
sorry I didn't reply sooner Matt, After reading someone else's comment I realized I was wrong about access to the resistor. You can access it though the cowl where the windshield wiper linkage is
Also I unplugged the fan motor wires under the air box and plugged in a new motor and it worked just fine at all speeds. So my box has to come out. Bad fan for sure.
Sounds like you may have missed a plug upon reassembly or knocked something loose might have to get back up in there and take a real good look with a bright light
Also on the lower right hand side of the dashboard there is a bare metal bracket that mounts to the inner body of the truck with a good size bolt this is a major ground make sure that it is clean and tight
@@robbieraychannel thank for reply … while I was pulling steering column . I accidentally dislocated the ignition switch.. I replaced and now everything work
Welp its official. My 97 will not be getting a new heater core😂. I live in tucson, and it doesnt get cold enough that i want to take this job on. If it does get too cold I'll just have to drive the chevy, or jeep. What a pain in the ass.
