the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ru-vid.comUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
I'm one of those DENSE people...I cannot tell you how much wood I wasted trying to get the angles right until I saw your video this morning. I went into my garage, took some 1x4 and 2x4 scraps I had and practiced what you did and HOLY COW it really works. Any my wife is always telling me "Men don't follow directions" well, I did (this time) and I don't think I will be wasting much wood on the next project with acute angles.....THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but despite the fact that I had worked for 15 years as a carpenter I'd never learned how to do that. Great video, and piece of info. Thanks!
Man, I've watched a lot of miter saw videos and I'm telling you, you're is by far the best. No fluff, no unnecessary chatter, just excellent information and communication. I wish all RU-vid how to videos where this good. Thanks.
I was a carpenter/cabinetmaker for 30 years. This is a great explanation. They were just coming out with power miter boxes, (No sliding combination), framing guns, and so on when I was an apprentice. Not many people can say they framed a house with hand saws and hammers these days. I had to learn all of this on a framing square, and in my 3rd year as an apprentice, the Swanson speed square came out. Wish I had had a digital t-bevel or angle finder
@@keithmarlowe5569 I didn't mention this, but I learned to draw elliptic arches to make brick cradles for arched widows like you see in churches on a framing square.
In my long past construction days I too used hammer (28 and 32oz) and nail. No air tools but we did use worm gear power saws to make our cuts. Framed. Roofed. Sheet rocked. Cabinetry. No plumbing, No electrical, No Insulation thank you. But I did move onto electronics as my second (and final) career. Retired now.I did emjoy this training video. Clear and concise. Well done.
Did roofing/siding in the early 70's to the mid 90, helped frame a few homes, still remember sore elbows from swinging the Estwing, no guns, worm drive saws. I still have my Swanson speed square, used it a few months ago replacing some rotted trim (NC weather is brutal on wood trim).
My current project involves cutting multiple 60-degree angles, which I had never attempted before. I decided to leave it for later as I lacked experience with acute cuts. Today, while browsing my RU-vid account, I stumbled upon your informative video. I am grateful for the easy-to-understand instructions that have given me the confidence to carry out the necessary acute cuts and finish my project. Thanks a lot! 😊
Sir, this is a game-changer - my grandfather, a woodworker, passed before I got this knowledge passed down to me. It's the things like this handed down that makes a difference, I'm sure it says it somewhere in the little yellow booklet I threw away while unboxing my miter saw. You filled in a huge blank spot, and I'll be putting this to use today when I get off work!
Dude, this has cleared up so much for me. I feel so much more confident in cutting base boards for my wife's kitchen island, now. I am going to redo them because what i did initially is decent but i hate the small caulk filled gaps where i was toying around trying to get them as close as possible to complementing angles. This lesson in cutting angles: GAME CHANGER! THANKS
I was so proud of myself for learning how to use the saw and nail gun and cutting all my 90’s inside and outside corners. Now I’m ready for anything!!!!! Thank you!!!!
I'm sure there are lots of pros that know all of this, everything you showed makes total sense as you're explaining it. It's just not easy for beginners so videos like yours are absolutely brilliant. Thanks for making it and for explaining it so well. I'll be sure to hit the 👍 button
This is by far have been the best instructions and steps I've came across!! Thank You so much... I recently just purchased my first home and the floors are in, now it's time for new baseboards. That angle finder is a huge help, along with knowing how to make the adjustments to the saw.
Thanks a lot! I’m newly retired and starting to get into woodworking so am having to watch a lot of videos. Yours was one of the more helpful I’ve come across!
You are awesome man! Anyone who does long division, by hand, on a scrap of wood is definitely a mentor who can teach in a way that I can understand! Thanks.
I love this. So many questions answered in one video. I’m going out to my garage right now to give it a go. This has to be better than my “nibbling” method. Many thanks.
mate, this is the best i have seen with the angles, saw another vid, lost me after 45seconds, went all technical, quickly came back to yours. and it sure is the easiest .Many thanks
Thank you. As a novice woodworker i was wondering how to get acute angles on my Miter , but as a qualified Boilermaker( Steel fabricator) i fully understood how you did that.
This was truly helpful. Just been getting into woodworking and it's people like you and your videos that help people like me learn without making so many mistakes with wood trying to figure things out.
ive found working for a few different construction companies some guys will intentionally tell you wrong so they still have a advantage..id play dumb like i didnt know better but once i got a guy fired cutting tapes measures. I stayed late and caught this asshole with my phone going through a co workers tools so i started recording him cut 1 inch off of 3 tape measures and re-rivet the holder back on all 3 oh this young carpenter tapes ,he was young but very good for his age..The young dude husted his nose the next morning, And made me die laughing when he took 50$ out of his wallet and said that's too replace my measuring tapes you sabotaged. cant lie I was proud of the young kid seeing him do that after showing him the video. Because id of done the Same thing, i told him ill be right behind ya the hole time go confront him...He didn't confront him just walked up said hey asshole, And bunched him right in the nose.. Good hit too. lol anyway Great video huh
Very many thanks from across the pond! I had to watch this video 3 times and on the third run everything just fell into place. Grabbed some scrap timber and it worked so well that I tried again with some UPVC cladding and perfect! It's great to watch a straightforward video without all the hype. Now all I need is for you to hop over to England and help me finish my project😎
Trim carpenter here. Great explanation/tutorial. Don’t be afraid to add a degree to your cut on baseboard outside angles. this will ensure that the outside of the miter closes up. For example on new construction I typically cut my base with 46 degree angles for standard 90 degree corners.
I know that most of this should be figured on our own with a little deductive logic, but your demonstration makes it work out much easier in our little brains. Thank you
Ive been a finish carpenter for over 30 years and I found your explanation very clear. Fortunately I haven't encounter too many acute angles of 60 degrees on the job! Festool makes an angle finder that bisects any angle, I've found this to be an idiot proof solution for me🤣 Thanks for sharing this solution!
25 years in and most guys can't even explain the work they do this is well explained very clean and simplifies it for people that haven't been in the trade well done sir
@@ryandiedrich6317 I was actually picking up on that myself. Thanks for the verification bc it wasn’t mentioned that way…so basically just divide each angle in 1/2 again ? Where does the 180 come from though ?
@@prgelectric5104 180 degrees is straight line. Half of a circle which is 360 degrees. This guy did everything correct, i just simplified the math part.
I can't tell you how many hours I've been trying to figure this out! I've watched tons of videos and after watching this one, I couldn't believe how easy it was. THANK YOU!!!!
I do not see what is hard about it....this explanation he give makes it seem harder than it even is! all common cuts will be 0 (90) 45 or 22.5 rarely do you ever need to cut a differant angle than those.
Excellent tutorial. I struggled to make the cuts you described - now I know the tricks. Most important: have a digital angle gauge. Once you know the exact angle, you do some math and get perfect miters. Well done.
Thank you so much for posting this. I had difficulties making angles cuts under a stair, it was strange and difficult cuts, but you made this so simple to understand, I was able to successfully cut my angles. THANK YOU again!
Great video. Thank you for sharing your expertise. I'm a homeowner that's been replacing the builder grade trim in my home (door casings and baseboard) to wider flat-flat front trim. I bought myself a miter saw but it was an entry level saw. I can't stand the 6" base on its end so I have to cut it laying flat. The saw I bought will only miter to the left (sorry if I'm not making any sense). If I need to cut a miter the opposite way I get myself confused every time because I have to flip the baseboard around or upside down or something otherwise I am having to cut using my left hand which doesn't feel safe at all. I'm not sure what the answer is short of buying another much more expensive miter saw which I really can't afford right now. On a side note...all of the wall corners in my house are bullnose so I am going to have to learn how and where to stop the measurement leading up to the bullnose and what kind of angle I need to cut and how to cut those quite narrow pieces that sit right on the bullnose. Ugh!
The author does like to from scratch, ru-vid.comUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. As another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us don’t have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we won’t be able to practise the full stack project, is still great.
Awesome video! Very informative, clear & to the point without annoying music. My dad taught me this years ago & this is the first video I’ve seen that explains it the way he taught me, thank you for sharing this!
I am a very experienced trim carpenter. This is an excellent explanation for finding and cutting angles. There are other ways that work for this as well. But, this is a great tutorial for this method. Well done.
Nice, some clear info. Though for trim, you’re rarely ever going to find an acute angle like this in a house. But for a wood worker building boxes or something, the jig and math is a great tip. With baseboards, keep in mind that there is a 1/4” build up on drywall outside corners that will throw things off. The angle finder will only measure the built up part, but the full length board will either need to curve in past that if it’s flexible, or there will be a gap if it’s solid.
Oh, you find them alright. I do staircases, and sometimes doing skirt board moldings where they connect at level runs we have to make what we like to call, suicide cuts, since they’re like 70 degree cuts usually and with small 3/8 x 3/4 “ mouldings.
That's what caulking is for, at least in a paint grade situation. Stain grade? Well, that's when I would bust out a rasp or sandpaper, and nibble that bulge down a bit... Find the happy medium as it were, then move on... If the drywaller is worth his weight in salt, he would ensure a nice gradual taper when floating, eliminating the problem. Even "inflexible" trim will usually give a little.
Yup. The drywaller, often me, will only taper out a foot or so, and this is all the angle finder will measure. So, it’ll give you a rough starting point, but you’ll need to adjust, whether that’s with caulking or a rasp, or in my case, just adjusting the cut angle a point or two.
@@markoshun yeah, depending on the circumstances. A degree or two will usually compensate when it's not sloppy mudding. Since I do my own drywall floating as well, it's usually spot on, but sometimes, we have to follow someone else's work... Great video btw...
AWESOME!!! Thanks for explaining this trick so comprehensively... i'm 47 and guys like you make me wish we had teachers like you on high school... my life would have looked a LOT different!!!
Man, you're a genius! Zero on the saw = 90 degrees. Of course! Those numbers have been staring me in the face for all the years I've had my mitre saw. I only really ever use 0 and 45 degrees, but now it all makes sense! I need to go and find a weird angle in my house, just so I can cut something to fit it! Thank you so much for this great video!
If you don't have a digital angle finder, it can be done manually with a t-bevel, compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel angle against the wall, then transfer to a piece of scrap. Bisect the angle using the compass and straight edge. Set the t-bevel to the bisected angle and use that to set the saw.
Thank you for the nice explanation. There is actually an easier way to determine mitered angles with an angle finder. First, take the angle of the corner, then subtract it from 180 degrees (for example 120 degrees becomes 60, 90 degrees becomes 90, 60 degrees becomes 120, etc.) Then, divide the number in half because there’s two pieces making the angle. That’s it. You’re welcome.
@@woopar305 Your one of those guys! Passive-aggressive internet snach - try to look witty by your reply, yet not intelligent enough to figure out SIMPLE math. It is a good look for you.
This man gets my Vote! Thank You for letting the blade come to a stop, before raising the head @ 02:39. I’ve gotten a lot of pushback, from others, including a family member that is a contractor, over this. It may take a little extra time, but what cost for safety? Thanks for illustrating the safe use of a saw, as well as prowess on the cuts! Being a former trim carpenter in another season of Life, I can appreciate this. Viewers I hope You took notes! BTW, not raising the carriage on coast down is especially critical on trim pieces. On a framing job, or thicker dimensional lumber, one can get by raising the carriage, but DO NOT let off the trigger until saw is out of the cut. Please stay safe everybody! 👍✌
When doing a mitre for acute angled walls, I recommend an infill at the junction point, so (with a 60 degree angle) you would first cut two x 60 degree pieces for the skirting and place each piece in position lining the internal edge with the corner of the wall, you will be left with a gap across the outside edge (because the angles obviously don't match) you then cut a 60 degree wedge piece to fit between them. The wedge essentially has a point on the internal side which meets at the corner point of the wall, the outside of the wedge bridges the gap between the first two skirting pieces. This method divides the acute skirting angle into two-halves and results in a two-step transition of the skirting around the acute wall angle. It alleviates what would otherwise be a sharp angle/point (bit difficult to explain). For example try doing an extremely acute skirting without this technique and you will have a sharp and elongated protruding skirting edge (if it can be cut at all!).
A very clear explanation. Suggest that a useful extra tip is, cut the mitre half a degree larger (eg 45.5° for outside miter) or half a degree smaller (eg 44.5° for inside miter) to ensure that the visible outside join is tight.
I’ve never seen this method before, as a mechanical engineer I still love watching other trades to get tips. Every day is a school day, and I’m glad I clicked on this 👏👏👏 As a side note I can’t believe how quiet your saw is, my old Ryobi is approx same size as yours, but as 15 years old, weighs a ton and sounds like a rocket launch in use………………😳 Sorry to preach but please encourage watchers to use gloves, 2 years ago I was cutting scrap wood to burn, I had long lengths in my saw supported by my rollers, as I quickly slid and cut them into 10” pieces. I wasn’t concentrating because I was rushing, and the long end of the wood on my left came off the roller as I slid it towards me. I had my hand on the wood and as the wood tipped up it pushed my hand into the blade which was going at almost full speed. I was wearing gloves and as I looked down there was a cut approx 4” in the top of the glove. I took it off and there was a cut on my middle finger along the whole length above the knuckle and I could see the bone. If I had bare hands it would have been a serious accident, the whole area had no skin to stitch so I did what any other mechanical engineer would do, put toilet roll over the top and taped it in place with electrical tape and went back to work 💪💪💪
If you double or triple stack and securely clamp your jig block so there is a taller backer for pieces with compound miters when you use a jig it's much easier to keep the piece you are cutting firmly against the block to ensure your cut is straignt from top to bottom.
Was just about to say this. For doing miters "veritically", either because of the specific board or because you only have a single bevel, use a block to space the workpiece a few inches from the fence
There is an easier way to deal with outside angles. Start with your angle finder straight. Adjust the angle to fit the corner. You measured 120 degrees. So you take 180 and subtract 120 and you get 60. So you need to remove 60 degrees total. You want to remove half from each side or 30 degrees. The way to think of inside angles is just to install one straight cut, miter and back cope the second cut. However, this only works when you are square or more open than 90. A tighter angle will require the first cut to be angled enough that the point fits into the corner. Then miter the 2nd and back cope it to fit.
Thank you very much! I did not know about this so this is extremely helpful. So subtract the desired angle from 90 and you find it on the miter saw! Awesome! This is going to be very helpful when I am doing baseboards!
I was told to make outside miters 1/2 degree over on each side because walls are never square and it's more important to make sure the outside touches than the inside. I replaced all my baseboard and I had 3 outside miters. worked on all of them. Something about that tiny extra that made them work well. BTW, my house is 50+ years old.
@@johnklein6040 I always cope if I can but if you're mitering then I'll do 44 or 46 even if it comes out 45° with a gauge. It just makes those areas of contact a little bit tighter 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
@@SawdustandWood Yea, like Crown Moulding.............now THAT would be some GOOD STUFF and I would tune right in. I can't begin to tell you what was previously said and Expensive Dentil Crown is not something you want to learn on.
30 years of carpentry and I did not know this method of cutting acute angles on a mitre saw, thank you very much, no more block planing that rock hard piece of oak down to fit 👍
Maaan..im a carpenter have been for along while now and like I always tell others I'm showing the trade when you're not always trying to learn new and better ways yr done for great video my man..
I like your approach!!! Very helpful for us DIY'ers trying to save a dollar, or maybe even do some projects with the kids to help them catch interest in the trades!!
Thank you so much for this very good explanation. I just realized after watching your video that I could use this on some real small pieces of trim that I've done multiple times for the same kind of project and always spend so much time trying to match it up. I think those days of wasting time are over.
This video just eased a lot of my anxiety. I've literally been putting off baseboards in my basement because of the angles. I've saved this video in my "How To" playlist for the future. Thanks.
