Hi Troy glad to see your channel up and running. I've had good results with carbide but you've got to send it. High speed and moderate feed. I get your point about broken tooling. Quality brands get quality results but come at a premium. Hss however is a little more forgiving on the old purse strings and very versatile.
G’day mate… cheers! Yeah, the premium thing isn’t an option atm unfortunately. A million other things to buy 😆 And yes I get the carbide tooling thing. But that particular tool I showed at the beginning of the vid, without the adapter/holder was around 150-160 bucks with an insert. I bought another 5 inserts while I was there. Then the adapter. So it wasn’t a super cheap venture! Off a reputable tool maker/supplier here in melbs as well. So I didn’t cheap out on a chinesium eBay special. One cut it lasted. I have 2 or 3 cheaper variants in the drawer as well. Anyway… since I’ve sped up (got over the fear) the hss is working out well for me. Hoping even better with the new holder and the solid riser. I’m yet to power feed it…. Might try it at the end of the build. From the kitchen, behind the counter!! Haha. Thanks again… not sure but you might be my 100th sub. If so thanks heaps 👍
@@NOideaMachining yes that's me lucky number 💯. When I was working in industry we ran a Sandvik parting blade and got really good mileage. I used to run a Colchester. The Sandvik parting blade was $200-$300 from memory so not cheap. I've changed jobs and only do machining at home but have that bit of paper they give out these days like a cereal box lucky prize. Apprenticeships aren't what they used to be. Fitter turning was my 3rd trade and the quality of training was worse than the other 2.
I think that the type of parting-off tool depends on the material being cut. For soft materails then certainly use a HSS blade. (preferrably with cobalt and tapered sides). Also I rebuilt my tool holder with an inbuilt top rake angle. This way only the end requires sharpening. For high tensile and tougher steels such as 4140, use the carbide parting off tool. A video by Joe Pie recommends parting off at a much reduced speed and plenty of lubrication. Also critical is the tool cutting edge height and tool perpendicular to the job. I have not experienced the problem you described but my lathe is larger with corresponding larger tooling. Cheers
Hey mate… yes for sure. I’m more focused on the smaller hobby lathe in a shed I guess. If you’ve got the hp and the rigidity, then choose your poison I guess. On my first baby lathe, running slow, compared to fast was night and day. Slow I’d tend to feed in from under the lathe 😆 Not really 😊 But I knew the likely outcome.
With the carbide blade make sure the insert is tapped home to the shoulder on the top. For more grip try filing the end of the point on the blade to allow the insert to go in a little further.
It’s completely bottomed out at the back. I’d have to cut the entire back of the insert off (or grind) for it to go in any further. I’m just not bothered with it tbh.
The carbide insert tool you have is the best one. I cant explain why it falls out, mine never does. Something must be out of alignment on your machine or it is deflecting badly. I just made a Short using the carbide tool without coolant or lube on mild steel .750 round. EZ peezy. Hint, faster is not better. Make chips that dont need dips!
Hi mate, I know why it falls out, the tool is stuffed. Was from day dot. They’re meant to wedge in where this doesn’t and never has. I thought it was normal (and I was the problem) until it was discussed on a forum and I was told it was defective. I’ll dig it back out and show it in the next vid. I just gave up on it.
I got mine from Shars Tools, best goodies for machines imo. Good luck. No need to dig up a defective tool, file it where it belongs...the trash. Cheers.
Buy more of those Starrett blades NOW before they start cheaping out. They just sold the company to an overseas "investor", meaning China, so you know they won't maintain the quality we've come to know for much longer.
