Been bbf for over 4 years now it's so much easier and it eliminated some unwanted camera movement. at 00:11 that's a face only a mum could love 🤣 probably the reason you spelled focusing-f-o-u-c-s-s-i-n-g at one point in the video but hey we'll give you 5 points credit for trying Mike. I guess now we know why you go by box head Mike!LMAO 😂
Owww,very interesting! Never used this technique before...I'll try that on daytime tomorrow, in Clacton...(using Sony a7RIII)Thanks for Your advice, Mike! 😊😊
@@alvinmorris5404 Haha!! I as soon as I wrote this script, I knew I was going to use that punch portrait!! 😂 Ah damn it, I knew I'd end up with a typo at some point. I was doing these whilst my car was serviced, sat in the garage waiting room, so in my defence I had a lot of distractions with this edit! 😂😂😂
@Mike Smith must have been an attractive woman walk in when the typo occurred...unless your wife was with you 😉 then you were distracted by making sure that you didn't let your eyes leave the screen lol been there done that 😉 😆
The main advantage of decoupling autofocus from the shutter button is so that the photographer can leave the camera in continuous autofocus, yet still be able to focus and recompose (with the subject off centre) when necessary, by simply letting go of the AF-On button on the back of their camera. I have been perfectly capable of locking focus and recomposing through the years. The “magic” simply comes from the AF-Lock button, or in my case, the AF-On button, that is configured to serve as a dedicated AF-Lock button instead. With normal use of your shutter release button, let's say a subject is stationary all you need do,is press rear button with thumb to disable a.f. Then if it moves just release the rear button to start focus tracking. Easy peasy...very few professional photographers use back button for focusing. Moreover a more important use of a rear button is to have it programmed to One Shot/Ai Servo switch, or on Canon to Register Recall Function. Besides all that: Why use two fingers to do what can be accomplished with just one finger.
I'm new to the Sony environment and this video absolutely blew me away with how to use and interact with the focusing elements in the A7iii. Content was useful, explained well and demonstrated perfectly. Thanks Mike 👍
That's great to hear it all made sense Ryan! There is so much information in the menus that it is easy to get lost in there, or even ignore them all together. I also have a video on how I set up my A7iii for photography. Thought that might help if you are new to the system ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fa2gr8rWO5I.html Thanks for watching 😁👍
It works really well for landscape photography and I use it for that. I have however set up both shutter and back button for wildlife, and have great results with that.
Some great tips here Mike. I'm on the a6000 and so the focussing isn't as good as it is with the newer Sony bodies. I did experiment with BBF for a while but found it didn't work too well for me. For landscapes etc you've usually got the time to set the focus for each shot. For sports/wildlife I've usually got a lens on that has a focus hold button so I'll get focus with the shutter button and then hold the focus hold button. I do have the advantage of relatively big hands so this isn't too much of a stretch.
Great to hear about how you focus James. This is the great thing with these modern cameras, there are so many different ways to set them up so you can really customise it to make it the best for your style of shooting. I had my rx10iii set up as a focus hold system, but I just couldn't get used to it ... I kept forgetting about it and that camera is notorious for hunting and not locking on! 😆 As always thanks for watching 😁👍
I started with Back Button Focus when I bought my first mirrorless camera (R6markii) at the end of September. It was a bit frustrating to use BBF in some situations because I was not able to compose the photo like I wanted, so I went back to focus only on the shutter button after 1 month. I found it so much easier when I only had one button for focus and capture. It was almost like going back to my old Canon 5D mark ii.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. BBF is not for everyone, and this is the great thing with photography. There are so many customisable options nowadays that we can really personalise these fantastic bits of kit. Thanks for watching 😁👍
I've just configured my a7m3 to these settings, tried them and already got used to them, they are really convenient. Thank you a lot for this such an usefull tutorial! Quick and informative - I so admire your work! Keep going! 👍
That was very interesting, I didn't know you could do that. I just tried it out sitting here on my couch and I genuinely think this is going to boost my low amateur efforts to at least mid amateur. Well done Mike.
Great to hear I could help Gus!! There are so many different options in the menus that it is easy to get overwhelmed by it all. I was when I first switched across to Sony from Canon. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks for the clear presentation on back button focusing. I also appreciated that you offered ways to use the focus with flexible spot, wide and so forth. Thanks again.
I have used back-button focusing for a few years now which I find is a great tool to use when focusing. Excellent video Mike, very informative on focusing.
I shoot moving subjects more often than landscapes and don't really experience problems with "focus and recompose" technic using shutter button half-press. So I played with BBF for a bit and returned to classic option, with AF-S as main focus mode. But at the same time I set up back button as "Tracking On+AF On", so it instantly changes mode to AF-C and tracks my subject if I need it to.
I just found your channel today. You explain the different ideas and tips very well! Can't wait to go through all your videos to keep learning. Well done!
Thanks very much! Great to hear you like my videos. If you can't find what you are looking for let me know and I can either send you a link or make that video in the future! Thanks for watching and welcome to my channel 😁👍
Awesome! Thanks so much Miguel. I had fun making this one, especially with my new way to film the back of camera!! As always thanks for watching my friend 😁👍
great Video again, as usual :) I use my Smartphone more and more to check the sharpness after I took the image, the Display is bigger and of course much sharper than the Camera Display.
Thank you for the great video on improving focusing methods! I've been using BBF for a couple of years and really like it! On my Canon RP, the A+ mode on the dial takes the focusing back to the normal mode, so someone else using my camera doesn't have to worry about BBF.
Thank very much George! Of course ... switching to the Auto mode is a great way to get around the issue when handing your camera to others. Thanks for watching 😁👍
I'm not a fan of back button focus. I much prefer to use the flexible spot and the touch screen on AF S. Works for me with a good success rate. I occasionally use DMF! Get to the woods Mike, the bluebells are out, just spent the day at my local woodland, absolutely stunning😀😀
Great to hear what you use Barry! This is the great thing with these modern cameras, we can set them up to suit our individual needs. I hopefully have some time this weekend, so will see what I can find. Thanks for the tip!! 😀 And as always thanks for watching 😁👍
I love DMF with focus peaking too. Esp when doing time lapse and in 360, as I am doing holy grail time lapse. 3 hours mostly, if possible, might go into 4 hours. :D
Hey Chris, Thanks so much!! It's taken a while after a bit of a lull but the more recent videos are doing really well. Great to hear they're being picked up by some of the photography sites as well. Out of interest, which ones have you seen them on? As always, thanks for watching and commenting dude, much appreciated. 😁👍
I changed to back button focussing as my main subjects are sport and wildlife and it was widely recommended. At first I found back button focussing quite awkward, but I persevered as I could see the benefits and now I wouldn’t do anything else.
I haven't used BBF on my A6600, I am still learning other menu items lol, that said i may at some point set up the BBF function & give it a try with my new lens (Tamron 17-70 f2.8
@@mikesphotography its early days yet with the 17-70mm but on first shoots it is a vast improvement from my kit lens🙂 Its a pleasure to watch your videos, they are very helpful & you produce some great pictures
8:30 I use back button focus all the time. I mostly do it because if I don’t press the AF button, the camera is automatically in manual. Before I did BBF I was always flipping the AF/MF toggle, which I’d often forget and mess up my shot. I don’t know how other systems work - mine is Pentax. It looks cumbersome having to toggle AF/MF even with BBF activated.
I think Pentax and Panasonic have that option that the focussing system works with an assigned button even when in manual focus mode. That's what I found with the GH4 cameras I used to shoot with years ago. I just like to have both options of having BBF as well as a toggle, so I can go full manual when needed and also have the option of BBF when in the normal focussing modes. As always thanks for watching Pete 😁👍
Hey Mike Well done video. I tried back button focus several times, especially on older cameras, as you mentioned in the video. However, it never felt right to me, did not fit my style and slowed me down. So I use it in normal mode or switch to manual or use the hold button on my lenses, when I need it.
Hey Ben, No worries, the great thing with these modern cameras is that there are so many different ways to get the same result, so go with what works for you. Thanks for watching 😁👍
BBF is what I used extensively in the DSLR days. Mirrorless: now with Face and Eye Priority and Focus Tracking it’s no longer relevant for me. DSLR: I even took it off from my D850 and D500 in favor of 3D Tracking with Face Priority (yes indeed). Doing so, I have another AF-method available, which is Group AF on AF ON and even D9/single on the multi selector. On the DSLRs I have AF Lock on the Pv button, in case I need it (I rarely do).
Good timing on this video, Mike. I am trying to decide on a long lens to purchase. I borrowed a 100-400GM lens from a friend this week and have been playing with bird photography. I used to like birds, but they are not my favorite things at the moment. I have loved the lens, but would probably also need to add a 1.4 teleconverter if I wanted to do more of this type of photography. I am giving the lens back tomorrow, so I just rented a 200-600 to see which one I prefer. I also have in my rental cart the Tamron 50-400, which I will try out after I use the 200-600. Anyway, back to focusing, I started using back button focusing years ago after watching one of your videos and have not looked back. I hope all is well, brother. Have a great week.
Hey Steve, Haha! I'm guessing the birds aren't behaving as they should. You need to find the catnip for birds to get them to sit still, eating at a bird table ... 😆 It'll be interesting to hear what you think of the 50-400mm compared to the 200-600mm. I was really tempted by the 200-600mm but just didn't want that much extra weight in my bag... and with the wider end at 50mm with the Tamron, it is a great lens to have on most of the time. As always thanks for watching dude 😁👍
I just got the Sigma 150-600 sports and am loving it. Its heavy the first couple of time you pick it up, but I've been surprised how was it is to carry. I paired it with 24-105mm and my A7r3...well worth considering
Haha! Excellent!! I'm hoping to go and shoot a motocross event soon ... got a new set of videos I'm planning for the channel, coming later in the year!! 😀 That guy was flying on the Yamaha wasn't he!!! As always thanks for watching 👍
All my cameras are set to back button focus,, except my 35mm film cameras, far faster far better getting the focus when and where you want it,, also good for focusing and reframing depending on what the subject is. It's the business, thanks Mike good video as per , it's good to share knowledge.
It is a fantastic setup isn't it! I've been shooting like this for about 15-20 years (can't remember exactly when I first set it up like this) and I couldn't think of a better way to shoot. As always thanks for watching 😁👍
The advantage of AF C I have found is that is it much nappier that AF-A. Question/thoughts, why not just have a button for focus hold? Still don't get what advantage you have other than your focus not changing and if you have focus hold you already control that when needed.
Good to hear about the AF-C being nippier than the AF-A. Good question, a focus hold option would be similar, just a different way to shoot compared to BBF. I think I prefer BBF because I have been doing it for so long from when I used to shoot with Canon, and then Panasonic to the Sony's today. I did have the focus hold button on the RX10, but I kept on forgetting to press it as I am so used to the BBF system. The great thing with modern cameras is that they are so customisable that we can have our cameras set up exactly how we like them. Thanks for watching 😁👍
I've tried BBF twice before and I could never get used to it, so I switched back. To me, it's just one extra button to press to get my shot. I haven't used it in conjunction with AF continuous yet, so maybe I'll give it one more try. BTW: Try setting your camera to full green AUTO if you need to hand it to someone. On some cameras, that overrides the BBF and reverts to all-points AF using the shutter button.
Good summation of focusing methods and tips, material often covered on YT. Collection made up of far more than “3 Tips” of title. I use BBF all the time, mostly with AF-C. BBF issue w/Fuji is that touch screen is programmed to match shutter button actions. So, you can’t set the screen to have touch and focus with a tap unless you have shutter button also set to focus and shoot, if that makes sense. AI features like eye/face detect are good until they jump to unintended subjects (face in tree that’s not a face, or face of someone who wandered into the frame.) IMO, we should expect focus misses from time to time, despite our best efforts. Good point about lens performance - some lenses just “hunt” far too much. What, no mention of focus method for astrophotography?😊 BTW, inching closer to 100K subs. Will you post something celebratory when you reach that level? Cheers!
Haha! Well I put 3 in the title hoping that people will get more value than they were expecting... going above and beyond and all that 😆 Interesting to hear of your experiences with the Fuji and the touch screen. I know what you mean with the AI systems; they are good... until they fail. Good point about astro, I really need to get back out under the stars again. Although the nights are so short here in the UK int he summer compared with the middle east!! It's getting close isn't it. I did have something planned, but it has come a lot quicker than I was expecting as last year I was stalled in the 80s for quite a while!! Hopefully I can pull it off, but well see ... if it keeps going at the current rate, I'll hit 100k in about 2-3 weeks, so not much time to get it sorted!! 😆😆 As always thanks for watching Paul 😁👍
Thank you very much, Mike! I use BBF for quite a while but I must confess I never took DMF in consideration. Maybe because I didn‘t really know how it works. Now I do and I will try it, I think it could help shooting water surfaces i.e. waves, couldn‘t it? Kind regards, Martin
Is it really necessary to disable the AF w/Shutter functionality in order to use the BBF? I see no reason given that there's a dedicated AF-ON button on my A7III (that I am new to), So am I missing something? Can't we have it all at once at the same time?
That is a good question. I have set eye-af on to the joystick button and then just af on the af-on button, this separates the two out. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Thanks Mike! I've recently just been turned on to this. Now I am experimenting and finding some difficulties. Currently I am using a 50mm 1.8. When I use the back focus on a non moving object 1 meter away with aperture setting on at 10, the green focus box shifts in and out trying to find a focus point. At 2 meters it does a bit better. I shoot in the ocean of moving waves and water and am concerned how this focus will do when i am out in the sea? Are my settings incorrect for my distance and aperture setting with this lens? Wave photography is very challenging, as every aspect is changing and moving. I want to get really clear, sharp images of the whole frame and am struggling to do so. Appreciate your channel and all your info. Thanks!
Another great video, Mike. Once more I can see the jump in video production and all the effort you are putting in. Don't feel good about you pointing out all my mistakes, though. HAHA. Stay safe and warm out there.
Haha!! They are all the mistakes I make as well, I just normally cut them out of the final edit! 😆😆 Thanks very much for your kind words, I am spending a lot more time recently on planning and writing ... and I have rebuilt my rig to give that really nice back of cam shot! As always thanks for watching Lance 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Wow. Interesting I thought you just did some video editing to get that back of the camera scene. It was massively clear what you wanted to say, though. Great work out there.
😁 I've set up a 15mm rod system, where the two cameras are mounted to each other , so it keeps the camera perfectly still. I found when shooting from one tripod to the other the moire from the screen would be really bad due to the cameras moving slightly differently. I do have to admit, there are two shots in the video that are composites... Can you guess which ones!? 😆😁👍
I’m just starting to use my R6 II (coming from 5D III). The AF situation is reversed: when I want the camera to STOP focusing, I use one-shot AF and hold my AF-ON button. Still not used to it. If you do not use the AF-ON button, the camera may keep trying to focus. Probably not a big deal for landscapes on a tripod when nothing in the frame is moving. If you’re hand-holding or if there’s something moving in the frame, the R6 tries to account for it, even in one-shot.
That's interesting Derek. Sounds like they are trying to come up with different ways of focussing. I think you can set it up as a BBF camera as well, in the custom settings. Thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography Yep, I use BBF already, just like to see what more experienced folks are doing. Just wanted to comment for those folks who have cameras that are changing the focusing paradigm as Canon seems to be doing.
I'll have to check my Fuji for the back button focus option. I know it can do it as I've used it, though I think I need to keep my button pressed in for it to work. Yours seemed to be an on/off operation when you pressed the button. Camera familiarity is something I need to get on top of 👍🏼😉
I've linked a video fro BBF for the fuji system so check it out when you have a minute... hopefully it's worth a watch. With my system, I do have to keep the button pressed to focus. The c4 button is the on/off toggle between manual and auto focus. Thanks for watching 😁👍
For continuous focus you do have to keep Button pressed on fuji cameras. Unless it is in video mode, then it will track. For new fuji users, I don't know about every fuji model but typically while you can assign AF-On to a number of different function buttons, in order to decouple focusing from half pressing the shutter button, you need to be in manual focusing mode. But this works great because manual focusing mode has focus peaking and the focus check zoom box, and you can use this mode for back button focusing. That's how I have it set up, then in my custom menu I can switch the back button focus between continuous and Single. Then in my single point focus Mode I have it set to eye auto detect, so if I need to hand the camera to someone it's 3 switches iso to auto, shutter to auto, focus to single point and it's a fully automatic camera.
having said that I think some cameras have a pre AF mode. That may do it, but last time I tried that it hunted all over the place and just drained battery.
Thanks for another great video, I will give BBF a try. What's your opinion on focus peaking? I'm not yet sure if it is too distracting (especially combined with zebra), or really helping with focusing.
Thanks very much. Let me know how you get on with it! Focus peaking is a strange one. I find it is not reliable enough and will often highlight high contrast areas that are out of focus giving a false reading. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
If deciding to use back button focus, is it better to customise the button to just be pressed & held, or to be an on/off switch (if pressed it will stay on, until you press it again to turn off)? Im unsure. Im using a fujifilm x-t20.
If you need to focus on a moving target why not just use the autofocus continuous? If you want to focus somewhere specific in a static shot why not just use Flexible Spot area? It's even easier than with the back button focus. With the back button focus you have to target an area you want to focus on, press the back button, then recomposition. It's much easier to just use the joystick and select the spot on the screen you want to focus on.
Good explanation on BBF. I have to laugh when you talk about handing your camera to someone else to take a photo. Anyone who knows me knows not to even think about touching my camera! LOL! That's why God created iPhones!!
I wanted to change to back button focus on my A6400, but realised it does not lock the exposure settings, which makes it a little difficult in my case in Aperture mode to use it.
Hi Peter, I also use aperture priority mode and even though it doesn't lock exposure when you press the back button, you can still half press the shutter button to lock exposure if you like to shoot in that way. Thanks for watching 👍
I have not tried back-button focus but with the conventional setup tend to hold the half-press position to lock the focus and go back to the half-press position after a shot to keep that focus point for a subsequent shot if needed. I only go to full release and repress to the half-press point when I want a new focus point. Not sure what BBF would give me that this technique doesn't. What about the hurried shot where you only have time to hammer the shutter fully down? Doesn't BBF just make this a sure miss?
That is true, but in some cases with certain cameras, when you half press the shutter button, this also locks in exposure, or sets the exposure of your camera running as long as you keep it pressed in turn draining your battery faster than it needs to. With those hurried shots, after a really short time of using back button focussing, you will instinctively press both buttons. I guess there are different ways of getting the same result and you need to use what works best for you. Another way is to use a focus lock button once you get good focus. A few people have also mentioned this way in the comments here. Thanks for your thoughts and thanks for watching Colin 👍
I don’t want to sound like a Panasonic fanboy, or insinuate that one manufacturer brand is better that another however I have discovered that the concept of BBF is an outdated obsolete concept for my cameras. I’m guessing that the processor inside my camera is powerful enough to easily take responsibility for focusing and taking the shot with the shutter button. I can not comment for all Panasonic cameras but I can safely say that my second-hand aging photo centric G9 and video centric GH6 almost never miss a beat either with still subjects or incredibly fast moving subjects where I only get a second to get the subject in the frame before it’s gone. An example would be a small Wren landing on a branch, seeing me and then zooming off just as I raise my camera to it. Even when panning with fast moving subjects and taking 20-30ish stills a second, the shutter button locks focus throughout while taking shots. I did experiment with BBF but it gave me no noticeable visual improvement. It just meant that I had to use a finger and thumb to focus and take a shot. When I used older generation Nikon DSLR cameras with older sensors and processors then BBF was essential. My mate, who is a pro photographer, has just moved from his very capable and competent Nikon d850 to a Panasonic full-frame S5ii. He no longer uses BBF because there is no need for using it. The powerful processor makes it an outdated and obsolete feature. With Panasonic’s form factor, there is a switch positioned beside the viewfinder that I can flick with my thumb to go between auto focus and manual focus. BBF is still a useful feature, which I have successfully used. It’s just not needed for my choice in cameras any more.
That's great to hear Frank! I used to shoot with the GH4 and found the system to be really good. I guess I do it as a legacy habit from when there only used to be one good focussing point in the middle and I have gotten so used to it that it is just the way I do things with the system I have. The great thing is that with these modern cameras, there are many ways to get the same result. As always thanks for watching 😁👍
@@mikesphotography I've also owned a GH4 and thought it was the bee's Knees, until I killed it filming Storm Ciara. Turns out Weather Proof does not protect against being repeatedly covered by 30ft spry or being hit in the face by waves towering above me. The last wave was so powerful it dislodged the lens from the camera. I got the wave at 96fps so all was not lost.🤣 Thankfully the House Insurance covered user stupidity and I got a GH5 replacement. That camera was leaps and bounds better than the GH4 for focusing, but missed more fast moving subjects than nailing them. I'd say 90% blurred. The GH6 is phenomenal with 90% sharp focused. I got some excellent Red Arrows shots, and almost all pin-sharp sans-BBF. If you ever get a chance then I highly suggest you look at a Panasonic S5ii. It is the only Full-Frame camera that may sway me away from MFT. My mate is using it more as his main camera for "Talking Heads" on his you-tube channel as the Phased Detection is equal to Sony's. Admittedly he only has half your Sub's count but its taken me three years to wear him down from Nikon to Panasonic. Thankfully he did not entertain Canon. He almost went Sony A7iv but neither of us liked the menu system, however it is an excellent camera with stunning image quality.
I recently maybe 2 months go set my A7iii to back button focusing and I’m still getting used to it. I’ve been shooting my son’s football games using that set up. Some of my images come out sharp and some not so sharp and yes the shutter is fast enough for the fast action of a football game. Do I need to hold down the back button focus while pressing the shutter or do I press and release it then fire the shutter? Like I said I’m still getting the hang of it.
It does take a while to get used to, you need to keep it pressed. For any sports where you are tracking the subject, have it in af-c (continuous/servo) focus mode, this will then track your subject as long as they are in the focussing square and you have that back button pressed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching 😁👍
Hello, I have an A7iii and have just bought a 100-400 GM lens. When I video aircraft and use the telephoto , it looses focus for a split second as I zoom in or out. Is there a setting to keep focused all the time? Hope you can take a few minutes to reply. Thanks Mike.
Hey Michael, That's a good question. The only lenses that do that are parfocal lenses ... and unfortunately most modern lenses aren't parfocal. I think the only Sony lens that is parfocal is the 28-135mm which has been specifically designed for videography, whereas the 100-400mm is a photography-centric lens. I think cinema lenses are parfocal as well, but they are manual focus lenses and cost tens of thousands of pounds. I hope that answers your question 👍
I enjoy watching your videos but gotta disagree this time, Mike! .. i don’t see a reason for AF button these days .. at least for recent cameras and from these examples, I still can do everything you mentioned when using focus with shutter I find faster and easier way to engage shutter and also more dynamic for burst shooting than using 2 buttons .. even for recomposing i see no problem with that just keep holding the shutter and change your FOV, personally I think it’s old school technique that it’s still popular because it’s something many photographer used to it.. even thought I use Sony cameras since 2008 and I did everything from BIF to sport and landscape, One more advantage to using AF with shutter is you get to use one more custom key to recall some settings that I might need in a hurry than using it just for engaging AF.
If there are electrical contacts and the lens has a setting where it can control the focussing, then BBF will work. If you are talking about manual lenses with no electrical contacts and no focussing motors, then they won't work with BBF.
Hey, Mike quick question. if you can answer this it would be great. When I put my SD in my computer and load the picture up it loses its quality. Do you know why
Canon lol. The brand that doesn't utilise zebras for proper exposure like all other brands did for the past 10 years. Yeah right... Sony menus are the best cause with so many customizable buttons we don't ever need to dive into them at all. It's only the first week of owning a Sony that you'll need to dive into the menu and assuming you know how to customise the camera to your needs you'll never have to ever visit the menu ever again.
@@NeilGould More like that this is their only option though and not so much of a skill. I own a Canon 5D myself and i love the camera because of its colors and I've learned it inside out to expose properly with just the metering and no live view. It beats down any Sony or Canon or Nikon of today regarding IQ and color rendering. But histograms and the metering depends on the jpeg profile and how you've set it up and in most cases it's far from the truth. Zebras work based on the raw file and you can adjust them accordingly to your kind of shooting either you expose normally or use ETTR. They're the most awesome feature and the one that ruled out for me the Canon R5 i was planning to buy and got the Sony a7rv instead. I really hope canon will implement zebras on their cameras sooner than later. It's indeed a game changer cause exposing properly comes as second nature with that feature. You don't have to look anywhere or lose time thinking of checking the meter or the histogram to assure your exposure. As soon as they'll flash on your viewfinder you just back down 1/3 of a stop your exposure and you're set
