A brief overview of Iroquoian clothing

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A brief and superficial look at some elements of precolumbian Iroquoian clothing.
No doubt I made some mistakes and phrased some things poorly. My apologies if you spot an issue.
The corn husk doll was a historical method of teaching girls how to sew, and more importantly how to pattern clothing. The primary concern when patterning for a corn husk doll is how to get the clothes on, as the dolls are more delicate and less flexible than a human. This is an important consideration when devising your own patterns for real people.
The sketches on the other hand were just an unfortunate necessity. The doll's proportions are a little off and the clothing elements have to be oversized or distorted in order to fit, sketches let me better illustrate the designs. Besides which, sketches are a little bit faster than sewing. It would be nice if I were a talented artist, but instead I squandered my youth reading books and hammering iron.
Link to patreon if you are so inclined.
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4 окт 2024

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Комментарии : 135

@georgecuyler7563 Год назад

Yau! I am Heiltsuk and to my understanding cotton is native to the Americas, Europeans brought linen and heavy wool from sheep.

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Cotton is native, but it only grows in the south. There is some evidence that small amounts were traded this far north, but it would have been extremely expensive.

@darrenvanevery5274 Год назад

Then people made sweater’s, socks, 👖 & shirt, skibs and hats.. cuz of sheeps…

@trikepilot101 Год назад

+1 for "corn doll modesty." : )

@dinahnicest6525 Год назад

Any girl who ever peed in the woods, or a guy doing a #2, can appreciate the practicality of a breech cloth.

@fandangofonteinskalita1333 Год назад

Ancient Latvians had weaved belts and the longer it was the richer you were. It usually went twice around your waist, as to not slip down.

@shirleylysen9178 Год назад

Thank you. Very interesting. Some of the clothing for women must have been influenced as well by the need to nurse and size changes in pregnancy

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Quite likely. Some of the designs seem to facilitate this fairly well.

@randomtechpriest4146 Год назад

tunics are so great i love them from all cultures. i really wish it'd be possible to just wear one around in public as a guy without looking like you're in a costume or something

@hendrixman1996 Год назад

You'd probably just need to adapt it to modern materials/colors/patterns! A tunic thats the same material/color/pattern as like an 80s windbreaker would go hard as hell

@bravechicken6251 Год назад

I wear them at home freely.

@lisafish1449 Год назад

You're hanging out with the wrong people. Historical reenactors wear tunics all the time

@hendrixman1996 Год назад

@@lisafish1449 ugh youre so right

@AncientAmericas Год назад

Great job! You are an excellent researcher and teacher!

@H0mework 3 месяца назад

Y-you too!

@Atanar89 Год назад

Your made up belt idea is actually close to the belt of the Ötzi, which was also double length with tapered ends. But the leggins where probably tied to slits in the belt, not over the whole belt.

@dooleyfussle8634 Год назад

I agree, the Otzi belt also included a pouch across the front and several attached toggles for hanging tools etc. Very well done look at the possibilities of Iroqoian clothing based on existing evidence.

@Isseinoyuu Год назад

Great video, it's interesting how the two separate leggings plus a third piece to cover the groin is so similar to the medieval separate hose + braies setup. I guess if you want close-fitting clothing for the lower body in the absence of stretchable material it's a good solution.

@MalcolmPL Год назад

It's especially interesting when you consider that the design of braies was sometimes just a square of cloth, essentially just an oversized breechcloth.

@clobberelladoesntreadcomme9920 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL the Ötzi man ice age mummy was also wearing a breechcloth and leggings rather than trousers. I would imagine this design stood the test of time because it's easier to clean than trousers. The crotch of pants needs a lot more washing than the legs.

@jakestephens4868 Год назад

@@clobberelladoesntreadcomme9920 Ease of Manufacture may be even more explanatory. many, many times easier , quicker, and cheaper to make two tubes for legs and a rectangle for groin, than a pair of trousers which require complex shapes around the groin/hips/butt.

@felixstr9082 Год назад

That double length belt u theorized about was used in that way in neolithic europe. They found one with ötzi the iceman (neolithic man mummified in a glacier)

@grumbeard Год назад

Lovely talk. Clothing is a very difficult topic the older the timeperiode. You give me a lot of inspiration, my thanks.

@jakejacobs4463 Год назад

I just noticed your channel, I’ve always been curious about the Iroquois culture and History, as I believe that without the Iroquois, the United States would have never ended the Monarchy role in Society…. I have always had a particular curiosity about the iroquois…. Do you know, to what extent, information was available…. For example, were the Iroquois aware of the plains or the western native tribes…. Were they aware of the Aztecs or the native empires of the carribean….

@simonfraser3332 Год назад

its really surprising to me how similar the clothing was to medieval European clothing, not just the tunic but the leggings and garters too! reminds me of the hose and braise of the 14th century

@AsbestosEnjoyer 3 месяца назад

Maybe both peoples came to the conclusion that these styles of clothing were the best for their environments (as far as I understand both lived in similar weather conditions)

@simonfraser3332 3 месяца назад

@@AsbestosEnjoyer ohhh yeah that makes sense!! :3

@karasuarts900 Год назад

I’d love a video of just you playing with the dolls you’ve made lol ( great video❤️ )

@elmerexpress Год назад

Not only informative, but also a beautiful job. Honor to you!

@bravechicken6251 Год назад

Its also entertaining. I like the hummer.

@Justusrabbits Год назад

Thank you for your time.

@alecfleming4782 Год назад

Were any textiles used before the introduction of wool & linen? You mentioned the corn husk moccasins; was corn husk weaving used for other clothes? Great video!

@MalcolmPL Год назад

No, braided corn husks are too bulky and coarse. They were used for mats and shoes and maybe hats, but not clothing proper. Dogbane cordage was used for making bags but I haven’t heard of it used for clothing.

@alecfleming4782 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL thanks

@bombardboxing Год назад

Excellent video. The dolls work well and the patterns are appreciated.

@MeUrWishGranted Год назад

❤❤❤❤ I'm fascinated by the people that were here thriving before colonization. I'm happy I found your channel to help me to learn and better understand them. 😊

@wadewebb8977 Год назад

really good!I always wondered about bathing

@MossyMozart Год назад

@Malcolm P.L. - Fascinating. I appreciate the extent of your research. And I love the creativity and cooperation of your little Iroquoian models.

@Nutter-l3s Год назад

Great video, so thankful I found you channel

@alterangel Год назад

This is amazingly in depth. What am insight into the past

@breadtoasted2269 Год назад

My grandparents parents used to wear multiple layers. Maybe because it is the woodlands. The coats too, like two coats

@spiritualbeancoffee1031 Год назад

Shout out to your assistant!

@computertechnician120 Год назад

Great work mate. Good history, well spoken.

@fuzzytheduck 10 месяцев назад

I'm so glad I found this channel! It's fascinating how many similarities there are to medieval European clothing (which I'm more familiar with) Especially in the gender differences. The leggings for example almost perfectly echo the way that hose were worn. I see so little content about clothing history outside of Europe so this channel is really a gem!

@jamesellsworth9673 Год назад

This is useful ethnography. It is also useful instruction.

@josephbloggs6455 Год назад

Learning about the breech cloth is definitely the most interesting thing I've heard all week. Thanks for such a great video!

@OneOneThree-wl7ml Год назад

The doll is cute ahaha. Also, the clothing you made looks amazing. Awesome demonstration!

@jonajo9757 Год назад

That reminds me, but how did they clean leather attire?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Smoked leather can be washed like cloth. Unsmoked leather was rubbed with clay dust, which would bind with any grease and could then be brushed off.

@jezblades9913 Год назад

Very interesting/enlightening video. Thank you very much!

@Bambisgf77 Год назад

This was such a great presentation and commentary on current fashion. Thank you

@speeder7000 Год назад

Love your shit, so happy you're making videos

@alterangel Год назад

Would be curious to see what children and babies wore and how babies were carried

@LordJordanXVII Год назад

I loved this. Very special and informative. Fills me with emotion.

@harryrabbit2870 Год назад

Love this. Great work.

@Angry_Goose_Arms Год назад

so happy to see you again!!!

@tundeszollar4230 Год назад

Wow. This was informative as hell, good work.

@Bambisgf77 Год назад

May I make a suggestion about the ladies hat? I think it is more like a cap to protect the top of the head from sun and the added bonus of looking pretty. My guess anyways.

@leoscheibelhut940 Год назад

Great analysis! I never considered the cost[in time, effort, and weight] of clothing made from animal skins. Your mention of the knots attaching leggings, makes me wonder if the Iroquois developed the same knots that Europeans used, or did they develop different knots[perhaps better suited to animal skin ties and available cordage materials]?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

I’d imagine simple knots were the same, overhand knots, figure eight knots and half bows etc are the simplest way to accomplish their respective goals. More complicated knots I’d imagine would be different, many sailors knots for example are fairly counterintuitive.

@leoscheibelhut940 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL I assumed that there would considerable overlap in invented knots, but I seem to recall from my time in Japan that they had some unique knots. sadly, I can't recall any of the knots I learned in Japan, although I remember that when harvesting rice into sheaths by hand they bound the sheaths with single-use cordage twisted on the spot from rice straw. The knot they used was completely new to me. It may be similar to the one used by farmers to bind wheat sheaths though--I never saw it done up close so I can't say. How are ends handled with split spruce roots when making a long house or canoe?

@jhonviel7381 Год назад

@@leoscheibelhut940 did you ever recall? its been like 7 months now

@quickdrawmaster Год назад

Excellent! A very informative video, much respect!!

@TaylorsAuthenticTraditions Год назад

Osiyo. Very interesting and thorough video. Well done. Have you tested the leggings without cinching them? I dont have any issues with my leggings pulling my belt down and I have walked miles with little to no pull down. Just curious. I have 2 flaps sewn onto the legging, one flap simply is run up thr length of the leg, underneath the belt against the body and then back out and the other is brought straight up and then a simple pull knot if formed. It has served me well. @8:32 you have spoken the truth. I have stated this for years and many roll their eyes. I am glad to know others are like-minded. Do you have a video on how to produce wampum and if not would you consider producing one? It would be historically beneficial. Sgi.

@MalcolmPL Год назад

On the leggings, I’ve tried a variety of configurations, they all have the issue to various degrees. If it’s a design issue it could be that I’m making the leggings too tight around the knee. On wampum, I have an old video where I make a button, disk beads would use the same process but with only one hole. I haven’t yet figured out a good technique for the tube beads. I also haven’t tried weaving a belt.

@KennyRider137 Год назад

Do you know if the quill work told a story like wampum or held any social status like a feather headdress? Great video!

@MalcolmPL Год назад

I haven't heard anything like that.

@KennyRider137 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL I just read a short booklet that explained Native American paths would utilize trees where the bark was stripped off in a ring and pictographs were painted on the exposed wood to tell stories about the paths and advertise goods nearby. I have a theory that every design and image Native Americans used conveyed some message. What history remains to be discovered is truly exciting!

@phoenixthehobbyist6071 Год назад

Nice video

@tabletkashmir3708 Год назад

Great, interesting, informative video. Thanks!😁

@archcessory7581 Год назад

very excellent as usual

@RoyalKnightVIII 2 месяца назад

Also fun fact the words SKIRT and SHIRT are technically the same. The former being a Norse word and the latter and Anglo-Saxon word and both mostly meant tunic like clothes.

@Richard-od7yd 5 месяцев назад

I studied the IROQUOIS CONFEDERATION in 5th and 6th Grade at St. Michaels In Brooklyn New York and now live in Vermont where that culture is around me every day . Who knew 😂

@AnotherBrownAjah Год назад

Thank you so much for making these videos and sharing this knowledge.

@FathomLordKarathr Год назад

Can you do one on Iroquoian hair styles? I had heard that the Mohawk wasn't actually ever warn by the Mohawk people

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Here you go. Some of the information is outdated, but what have you. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jpsjnG3eE0Y.html

@mcRydes Год назад

interesting, great treatment of the subject.

@TheBoldDeciever Год назад

good vid. thanks

@acecat2798 Год назад

Your assistant is a natural at modeling- have they done this before?

@bravechicken6251 Год назад

Haha😂

@stdavidfitzroy Год назад

Thank you.

@1lobster Год назад

Why didn’t they scrape the deer skin to make it breathable? Isn’t that what makes buckskin different from normal leather?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

They did. The epidermis of most buckskin is removed. It breathes much better that way, but it's still sticky in the dead of summer. Buckskin is different from normal leather by way of the tanning method. Modern leather is tanned in chemicals like chromium oxide and alum. Historical european leather is tanned with tannins from oak bark. Buckskin is tanned with brains or animal fat. Buckskin is softer, warmer, more breathable, more flexible, more stretchy than other leathers. It's less durable though.

@1lobster Год назад

@@MalcolmPL that’s all very cool and makes a lot of sense. But native people also had access to Oak bark, and other vegetable tannins. So, wouldn’t it make sense for them to use small amounts of vegitan leather for some specific purposes? Like belts?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

@@1lobster It would indeed. Veg tan is better for belts and shoe soles and other rigid applications. But people didn't do it. Maybe it just takes too long. Brain tan can be done in less than a week, veg tan takes the better part of a year.

@1lobster Год назад

@@MalcolmPL makes sense.

@colincrovella4160 Год назад

I have a question about the outfit shown at 13:23. Does the red belt you’re wearing have a specific name? I saw something similar in a photo of a display by the UKB John Hair museum, where a mannequin is wearing a trade shirt and a red fabric belt like you are. It seems this look was popular across the Eastern Woodlands region. What is the role/story/significance of that particular garment?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

It's just called a sash. There isn't any particular significance. They were part of european fashion in the 1600s and were adopted by eastern Indigenous people along with other elements of european dress. Different groups developed their own styles of weaving. This one is a generic factory produced example.

@landrum3893 Год назад

Excellent

@Proctor_Conley Год назад

This was great, Thank You!

@fasted8468 Год назад

Would be cool to make them with magnets to hold it together

@Bambisgf77 Год назад

Great vid! For modesty of the model made me laugh and sub! 😅

@dancing_odie Год назад

I like your little corn husk buddy

@imperatorcaesardivifiliusa3805 Год назад

I would to ask if anyone knows the method by which sinew was used as thread in clothing? Sinew obvious isn't like modern thread being a continuous line. What was the method common for overcoming this? Was it typical to loop back with shorter sinew threads to overlap another thread into the holes or did they use a two ply twist method to extend the length?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

I don’t know the exact method, but I do know that twisted thread was not commonly used.

@imperatorcaesardivifiliusa3805 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL Thanks for the reply. I suspected so from looking at examples. I've seen single ply twist on some of otzi the iceman's gear like his dagger in prehistoric Europe. But everything across cultures usually seems to be single strands of sinew.

@MalcolmPL Год назад

@@imperatorcaesardivifiliusa3805 It could be that it just wasn't considered worth the effort to spin it into long strands, easier to just knot smaller pieces.

@dooleyfussle8634 Год назад

I have sewn with sinew, in some regards it is easier than thread (you can moisten the end and let it dry hard for a built in needle) and in others it is tedious (short lengths require you to rethread the needle frequently and you must overlap the last bit until it holds). It is far superior to thread, though, in that it melds in to the leather and becomes almost invisible, especially on brain tan.

@imperatorcaesardivifiliusa3805 Год назад

@@dooleyfussle8634 Ah I see so just overlap a new sinew thread through the existing one done already?

@izzygarcialionibabaloipici6293 Год назад

is the clothes comfortable? Would it be worth making my own set and wearing daily to save on cost of garments?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

The clothing I have experience with is all fairly comfortable. I don’t know if you’d end up saving on garment cost though, leather is expensive.

@billjenkins5693 Год назад

Well done

@RoyalKnightVIII 2 месяца назад

Based on the thumbnail I thought it was gonna be about Iroquois action figures GI Joe Acrion Iroquois figures when?!

@earlyriser438 Год назад

Niawen'kó:wa. I know we were late to the Confederacy party, but any love for Tuscarora textiles? Literally people of the hemp. I know next to nothing, except that it wasn't cannabis sativa but dogbane "Indian hemp" and it must have been in high demand during the summer months. Would *not* want to live in a smoky longhouse during the summer with a bunch of aunts and uncles clad in leather and fed a bean diet.

@MalcolmPL Год назад

I've done some reading and unfortunately there is next to no information on the precolumbian Tuscarora.

@simonfraser3332 Год назад

0:59 is this a pre or post colonial example? the cut almost looks like a modern T-shirt

@Rancorous_Redwood 4 месяца назад

So no weaving of any sort was used in clothing? I saw you reply to another comment that there was no evidence of twisted thread used in clothing. That seems almost surprising. Even just playing around with overwintered dogbane stalks yeilded a few inches of thread in an hour. I had vague hopes for finding out better how to process it. Would the rabbit and other small pelts have been tanned? Is it safe to assume that they also would have been brain tanned?

@MalcolmPL 4 месяца назад

Clothing was sewn with untwisted sinew threads or leather lacing. Plant fibre cordage is either weaker than sinew if thin or more labour intensive than leather if thick. Woven cloth was not used for clothing, clothes were made from leather or braided cornhusk in the case of shoes or hats. Leather is a lot quicker to produce, more weather resistant and more durable than plant fibre cloth. Weaving was used to make bags as the weaving allows air flow which is useful for storing perishables. Weaving was also used for mats. Possibly also for bark or reed rain cloaks, but we don’t have direct evidence for that. Some people believe that the Tuscarora wore dogbane shirts, but that idea is based only on shaky linguistic evidence, which other people interpret differently.

@Rancorous_Redwood 4 месяца назад

@@MalcolmPL you are a great fount of knowledge, and I appreciate you sharing it. I will add sinew resources to the "pro" column of "should I take up hunting." Of course, that also assumes I stop being a vegetarian, so a strong counterweight exists. I have been reading "Tending the Wild" and it has me looking much more closely at all the natural resources going uncared-for around me, while I import my food and clothes from wasteful, dirty systems.

@Chad-Giga. Год назад

Hey why didn't you show a kilt?

@clobberelladoesntreadcomme9920 Год назад

How did they wash their deerskin clothes?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Smoked buckskin can be washed like wools, simply soak and agitate gently, lay it flat to dry. Unsmoked buckskin doesn’t like water, so people would rub it with powdered white clay. The clay would bind with any grease and could then be brushed off.

@clobberelladoesntreadcomme9920 Год назад

@@MalcolmPL You are literally answering questions that I have had for years about everyday indigenous life and not been able to find out. Love your channel!

@markeverson5849 Год назад

I wish I could send you a picture of the clothing that I made from deer that I harvested and tanned brain tan and smoked very awesome

@Nutter-l3s Год назад

Do you know if the Iroquois had dogs before European arrival?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

Yep. Dogs have been here as long as people.

@FatBoy42069 Год назад

There’s a really good video about pre Colombian dogs by trey the explainer.

@EricK-ff2ff Год назад

Can tell me what book you found those images in?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

If you mean the pencil sketches or the digital patterns, I made those myself, otherwise, you'll have to be more specific.

@EricK-ff2ff Год назад

@Malcolm P.L. at the 22 23 second mark in the video. It looks like you show illustrations from old books

@MalcolmPL Год назад

@Eric K "The voyages of Samuel de Champlain." It's a relatively well known illustration titled, "illustrations of Algonquin dress.

@EricK-ff2ff Год назад

@Malcolm P.L. I forget who o herd ot from but there's a book from a famouse German trade person who traveled the east coast illustrating and talking about tribes of both Indian and white settlers that were so unique and wild. This was before the foundation of America

@My-cat-is-staring-at-you Год назад

Why weren't pants a thing?

@MalcolmPL Год назад

I've often wondered that. Surely pants are an obvious solution. It's odder when you consider the medieval european situation, where they started with pants in the dark ages and then abandoned them in favour of leggings and braies.

@My-cat-is-staring-at-you Год назад

@@MalcolmPL Humans are weird.

@littlesnowflakepunk855 Год назад

I figure ill-fitting pants are a lot more uncomfortable than ill-fitting leggings, which are adjustable without having to take them apart, and you don't have to make new ones quite as often for your kids as they grow. There are certainly benefits to both solutions.