I found that my 592 needs a longer bar than I need to put any load on the motor. To remedy the excessive over-rev I went up to an 8 pin sprocket. Now my chain speed is up, cut is faster, engine is in its powerband and not bouncing off the limiter. Basically to me if your running something under a 28” full comp it’s geared too low.
Very interesting saw technique, how to fell tree in its natural direction,. Thats new to me and i like it very much. All the details you provide helps alot. I havent heard of anything simulare here in Sweden. Thx!
The honesty is much appreciated however the very center is usually kicked of in a 4x4, 6x6, or 7x9 for blocking, pallets or rail ties so fiber pull in the very center isn't the end of the world. Im aware as a logger you know this but other viewers may not. Good video
As a game of logging instructor and logger I have to disagree with your notch hinge length and thickness…please don’t take this as disrespecting you because I am not. IMO, and what we have learned from Soren, your notch opening should be 70 degrees or more, the hinge length should be 80% of the diameter and thickness should be 10% of the diameter. Obviously then we bore cut the tree with the back cut level with the bottom of the notch…cutting this way you can wedge and manipulate the direction the fall vs the way they are leaning. Hence the term “directional falling” again this is all my opinion…however, I believe it is factual that it is the safest way to fell trees. Again this is my opinion and how I train loggers to feller trees. Regardless stay safe out there and enjoy cutting that nice timber
I think your basic blueprint for falling a tree is good but think a professional should be able to adjust to his methods taking efficiency, economics, safety, and his surroundings into account. If everyone out there try’s to cut every tree the way you described your going to have a lot of timber falling the wrong direction. What are your thoughts on this statement.
@@Good.Fellers I’m sorry but I have to disagree…first I’ll say this, your methods/s work no question asked whatsoever! And if I were a homeowner I would absolutely trust you to cut a tree at my house over someone who learns on RU-vid! However, this method is actually quite simple…if your using the sights on your saw (most people have no idea there are sights on a saw) to fell in the direction you want, then IMO do your down cut first (some people do the bottom cut and can make the two cuts meet perfectly), it is very important not to create bypass whether that is down or in…make sure both cuts match, you want that tree to break off evenly the whole way across the hinge. Next make sure your back cut is level or as close to level as the bottom of your notch. Remember your hinge only needs to be 10% maximum of the diameter of the tree. If that hinge runs the whole way across the notch opening and it’s hinge length is at least 80% of the diameter, you have full control of that tree. (Especially a white oak) this is by far the most safe and controlled fall you can have. If the bore cut is done correctly that tree does not move until you release it from the back and are headed out your escape path. 87% of fatalities that happen in the woods happen within 10-15 of the stump. In 2020 loggers died at a rate of 90 deaths per 100,000 workers while the national average of fatalities is 3.4 per 100,000… I just want us brothers and sisters of the trade to be safe out there! It really bothers me that our fatalities are so high. I hope that I explained it a little better. Thank you for the dialogue.
I'm surprised to see, as low as you like to cut around the flare, that you left installed the bucking spike on the clutch cover. Doesn't that snag and get in your way?
Nice drop !! I like your approach and cutting style…..just curious as to why you choose Husky….if I may ask. Also, do you use the 592 or 395 to limb these large oaks too? Keep the video’s coming 🪵⛓🪚👍👏🇺🇸 Rick
I generally will cut with one saw a day, felling and limbing unless there’s a breakdown. I’m not sure how to answer why I use husky’s other then they seam like a better performing saw for what I do. I owned one 660 like 12 years ago and I sold it off quickly.
