Very consise video. Thank you for the effort and time. I've been into bushcraft and camping since long time here and your points are in the good direction. Hope to see more of your videos. Cheers 🪓🪓
Thank you, if a person knows nothing about axes (like me), then listening to someone who explains it like the way you do makes me confident enough to get the right one for me. Again, thanks
Amazing video, I've been camping since my earliest memories. I've had my Estwing camp axe for years and for the price it's hard to beat in my book and damn near indestructible.
The very best video on axes, and ive seen many! Your my new teacher! My N7 ive grinded it fullconvex to razorsharp... it cost me 3 axes to buy&try-out before i got it. Now wanting a granfors 😂 The longer beard i like for fine tasks.. pfff its a leurning experiance. Thank you!
It's interesting to me how axe enthusiasts wax lyrical about their favourite hatchet/axe, and I can see how using them can be a lot of fun. I enjoy working with an axe when I'm at home and needing to feed a wood burning stove. However, we're talking here about the use of these tools out in the wild. Clearly, to lug around a hefty 3 1/2+ lb axe while camping out in the woods is "a pain in the arse" - your words. But, to dial back to a little hatchet at around 2+ lbs, one loses a lot of functionality, to the point that it may not be worth toting around that extra weight. So, how does one reconcile this conundrum? Well, firstly what do we need the tool to do? We need to reduce long "poles" into shorter logs. Does a hatchet/forest axe do this well ? No. At best you'll get (eventually) a chunk with irregular ends which make it very difficult to process any further, as well as tired shoulders and arms after a while. (I'm not a great big strapping bloke, see.) So, what's the alternative? Clearly it is a decent saw (eg like a Silky Bigboy, maybe Gomboy) Outback version. For me this is easily the No1 tool, and not negotiable. It is, and remains, the most efficient tool for this work. Next, we might need to reduce the logs to usable size. A note at this point: Primarily I would look to collect wood in the sizes that I need when using them. Like, I would look for say 3-4 inch wood if I'm making a fire to boil water or cook a meal, as I probably won't need to render such logs down any further. The kindling and tinder needed would be collected separately in the sizes needed. If I need a fire for warmth for a longer period I'd need bigger logs, but I'd try to avoid the need to split down bigger logs. I'd rather spend the time looking for more suitably sized wood. Splitting thick (9"+ logs may sometimes be necessary as an exception to the rule.) Splitting such big logs can also be done using wooden wedges. All other wood processing can easily be done with a good large knife (weighing half that of a forest axe, and about the same as a hatchet). I own a Cold Steel Trail Master and I can do all that type of work with it, including to baton down smaller logs in extreme need. I do not see that toting a hatchet around as well could add value to that. I also do not subscribe to the "one-tool-option" school of thought, and would always also carry a belt knife/bushcraft knife, as well as a multi-tool knife. However, I do concede that in the case of some sort of regular camp site, lodge, or similar, or where there is a vehicle of some sort (car, truck, quadbike or animal) available, where weight is not that much of an issue, I would of course add an appropriate axe (something like an Estwing Camp axe, or similar). It's just common sense. Thanks for the video and your enthusiasm!
Hey Dennis, thanks for the thoughts on the subject. I agree with you on a lot of your points, particularly about carrying a saw. 100% an invaluable piece of kit to have with you. I have found living here in Finland in the Cold months that the axe is the best tool for processing my wood. I don't tend to carry a large knife so splitting frozen logs usually requires an axe. Also, I have find that, due to spoon carving, I've gotten pretty accurate with the axe to the point that I can quickly make things with it that my knife would take longer and more energy/time to make. That's the fun of the outdoors though isn't it, there are a million ways to do things. Thanks for the comment!
@@artoftheoutdoorsThanks for the reply tp my comment. Being from a much warmer climate I do tend to forget about the influence of cold. I think I would hesitate to go outdoors in weather you guys would happily do so! I guess one gets axe guys and also big knife guys. And then one gets multiple tool guys like me (as opposed to multi-tool!). At least it means we get loads more great videos to discuss, and learn from. This time it was time for me to learn something! All the best, mate!
I’m not big on hatchets in general, except as a dedicated kindling tool. I don’t want to knock them, but I prefer a large knife and “medium” axe. My current axe choice (to buy soon!) is 23” handle, 1.5lb head and 2.5lb total. More than 3” if cutting edge. I suspect it’ll be awkward to pack. But the weight is reasonable. The length is good for bigger efforts. I like the GB small forest axe dimensions. 19-20” handle is even easier to pack. Less reach but same head weight and edge. This is what I’d travel with. I’m not anti-hatchet, so in a group, I’d love to have a couple people with hatchets and maybe someone with a full length axe.
Thank you for this video. I am just toying with an idea of purchasing a solid bushcraft axe and this helped me a lot. That Fiskars model looks like a good price/quality ratio option, although doesn’t look so classy as the others you presented.
Thanks! I’m glad the info was useful. Not as classy, but it did win some international product design awards when it was launched if that makes you feel better about it 😁
I broke a Fiskars synthetic handle on my hatchet…you are correct, almost impossible to fix. A friend who collects and fixes axes tried multiple times with no success.
@@artoftheoutdoors improper use on my part…it involved logs oversized for the hatchet and a 5lb mallet. I will say, it took a beating before finally letting go. Under normal use, I’d suspect it to be almost indestructible lol
I used to collect and mod hardware store hatchets. Yes, some are not good. But there's also brands like Estwing, Fiskars, and some others that are surprisingly good quality, particularly for the price. I agree about the tomahawks. They are cool little tools and weapons, but they are not best and processing wood.
I disagree it depends on the tomahawk , I have a Biscayne Axe made in 1760 , which is what many of the original "trade tomahawks" were, especially in Canada, the head weighs in at 600grams ( 1lb 7 ounces ), is about the same size and shape as the gransfor bruk wildlife hatchet head, and once you add a 19" handle to it it weighs in at 2lbs .. perfect for a small belt or rucksack axe . Buying something like a French Farm Axe or German Rhineland pattern 600 gram axe gives you a good multi purpose axe, quite cheaply. When I go out I carry either my 2001 Wetterlings Hunter with a 21" handle, my 1999 Wetterlings Hatchet with the 14 " handle or my French Biscayne Axe with the 21" handle
Brother, recently I purchased a 20-in 2 lb fireman's ax from harbor freight. You have to sharpen it often but it's pretty cool. It's got some weight behind it and I also purchased a 36-in. I believe Collins acts 4 lb for splitting and I love it
Definitely a defective product then Aaron. People here in Finland swear by them and we regularly get -40 here. Gransfors is a solid option but are by no means a BETTER option.
Estwing is arguably the best all around..and definitely the most durable... They have out performed so many marked up "high-end" axes. Performance and edge retention..and are solid, forged steel full tang.
@skipper9400 I also bought a Council Tools Pack Axe, and have modified it to suit my needs...I did convex the edge, getting rid of the stupid scandi edge....IMHO it has no place on an axe...I have knives to carve with if I need to, however I rarely do that because I ALWAYS carry Jute twine, and Fatwood...cut the twine is 3 inch segments, break it down to fluff, and it will catch fire from any spark instantly, and if you have some shavings of dry wood, you're good to go....fatwood lights easier offa the jute and burns longer than plain shavings, and that's why I use them....I'm 76 years young now, and easier is better LOL.....I also ordered a Boys Axe handle, (they share the same Eye Size), and re-hafted the Pack axe with it, as the 23" handle it came with was too short....the 28" handle made all the difference in the world with the axe, as it is now a VERY good small firewood-camp wood splitter, and the extra 4" of handle is carried just as easily in a pack as the 24" handle...the difference in length is negligible, packing it, and you can always choke up on the handle, but you cannot lengthen it.....and it's a LOT safer splitting with it now, no need to get on your knees if you have a splitting block to put the wood on to split...all in all it's truely a great axe now, and I've had Granfors brux and all the rest...this is the best packing axe that I know of.....the other thing I would say to all who want to go play in the woods, is just this: TAKE A FOLDING SAW !! and here's why...cutting thru DRY wood for fire making, (or any reason), is just dumb unless you HAVE to, as that is a very good way to roll or chip even a good axe's edge, and there are plenty of good folding saws out there , I carry, (and love), a Corona RS 7245.........OnWard.........
@@artoftheoutdoors thank you so much for the reply! i'll definitely look into them. i actually plan on moving to Sweden as soon as my partner is through with Uni, it's been my dream for years
I went on my first bushcrafting camp trip for this last 1 1/2 months (bro and I bought some property and were looking to build), and I learned the hard way those cheap axes are not worth it. we bought a cheap 20 dollar estwing and it was garbage. I splite one piece of pine with it and the edge chipped and rendered it useless. Question: Would that Huskafor Ekeland hunters axe be good for general wood processing, splitting and felling for homesteading projects? My brother and I will be camping on our property periodically as we build a house for our family and want to be sure we some good equipment. We learned some hard lessons about equipment failure if you go too cheap and don't quite know what works best depending on the conditions you're working in. Thank you for the video, and I hope to hear your opinion on what might work best for my circumstance.
Ok I have to correct him here. The tomahawk or hand axe were tools first then weapons. And the tomahawk axe ces in many different blade types and camp craft. In many cases the tomahawk can be your only bush craft tool. Also the " tomahawks" have the advantage of being removable from the handle for easier use in crafting and to make a canoe tool and other adventures projects. It was not originally a weapon. It was even issued to troops in the U.S. Indian wars it was such a useful tool & weapon. Get your facts straight. Also take an axe out with a tomahawk and compare the 2 your self.
I advise against them for people looking for a good woodcraft tool. A tomahawk is definitely not a good tool to start with. Also I have used them many times and I find them completely subpar to a gransfors hatchet
@@artoftheoutdoorsI grew up with tomahawks starting as a child. I am carib and proud of it. The tomahawk may be inferior in your cold wooden biome. But here in the islands a nice thin cheeked tomahawk like crkt will be much more usable. This is also why machetes find success here. Thin blades create deep cuts which is needed in our green island jungles. You are basing your tool rating off your locale. But there're so many other bushcrafters and just straight natives that use these tools religiously for living over a hatchet
I bought one of the crkt tomahawks with the removable head. It’s cool for what it is. I think it actually has two good uses, first it makes a great paper weight and second it looks very nice. I grew up using real axes and hatchets, I hate the taper you have to have in the handle to remove the head, it makes it unusable. I really want to sell it but I hate to screw someone over.
@@BuckFu skinning , weaponry, carving, crafting , chopping , splitting, throwing , hammering. Idk about you, but it seems like there's a lot more than paperweight. I've taken this tomahawk out so many times on bushcrafting no axe needed and built shelters from 0 to 100 no problem. Sounds like you have a lot of experience and trust in axes making big claims about a completely different tool. The tomahawk is not an axe. And an axe is not a tomahawk. Two different cultures , multiple differences.
@BuckFu Tons of "real axes" that are slip fit axes similiar to tomahawks like Rinaldi, Basque axes (that have been around for centuries).... 🙄 Tomahawks are simply small ship boarding axes that were adapted into trade axes for Natives. Otzi the Iceman's axe was effectively a tomahawk style axe that was used as both a weapon and effective tool. It just comes down to what size and type axe you need for the type of wood and work you expect to encounter.... and how much work you really need to accomplish. No one is humping around "real axes" when you also have a rifle and ammo in tow and trying to be light and quick on foot up and down mountains all day. I had to really work on a better edge, but my small, cheapo Cold Steel Trailhawk can easily chop through a 6" tree in short order. Is it more of a pain than having a "real axe"? Sure. But how often do I need to chop down larger trees? Rarely. Even in winter. Drop me off in the middle of nowhere in a Canadian winter.... yeah, I'll bring one of my "real axes" then. Though, if all I had was my Trailhawk, I could make it work with a little more elbow grease.
Where would you suggest to look for any of them ? That are really made to last and worth every cent. And what brand(s)? What is usually the price range for a good one(s). How about doing a segment on handsaws on how yo use them for survival situations
Every tool has advantages and disadvantages. Find out what works best for you and what you prefer then find the best quality tool you can afford. There is no right or wrong other than too low quality or cheap Chinese knockoffs.
Hello from Canada. Don't buy any axes from Princess Auto in Canada. Absolute cr4p! Don't chop and can not be sharpened. Weirdest thing I ever saw so don't take the subject of doing your axe research and evaluation prior to buying an axe. I would not have enjoyed being stuck in the woods with that cr4ppy useless Princess Auto axe.
