We'll continue to post these episodes here on RU-vid. If you can't wait for the rest of the build, visit our site to binge-watch: www.powernationtv.com/shows/engine-power
Since the local cable channel line up quit carrying POWERNATION, KEEP POSTING VIDEOS, miss my Sun. AM programs. Built a small block Ford using an article in Petersons Engines that made a 351 into a 410, until we were able to install a full cage it popped a few windshields, the article claimed mid 4's for HP and TQ but we never put it on a dyno to check. Fun stuff.
Powernation : thanks for wasting my time with this paid advertising. I hope the people here take this for what it is. I have seen engines built built for this type of racing and this is at best a back up sitting in the back of the shed, this is a good street car engine at best.
This is the second time I've tried to get you guys to respond to me. Almost every hot rod show is making the same mistake that you guys are making so listen to me with your good ear this time. It's not OIL GALLERY. There is no such thing!! It's oil galley. Please believe me or find a dictionary and look it up yourself! This old and wore-out wrench turner knows a thing or two!
I used a stock 1975 block. I tediously removed the casting flash throughout, checked for any imperfections, enlarged the oil returns and used a billet steel main stud girdle. Using custom length H-beam rods from eagle and a "hank the crank" 3.25" 4340 steel crankshaft, with ultra light JE pistons and floating pins, the engine holds 90 psi oil pressure, with no issues of oil starvation even at 8500 rpm. The stock early 302 oem blocks will handle 800 hp with the steel girdle, so the aftermarket block isn't necessary for most people. But then, mine is just for the street. lol
@@jondoe6618 Yea they start at 2K and go up to over 3 grand. I am not knocking this build at all but this ain't no budget build. I use junk yard 5.0 explorer motors get them for $2/300 bucks 500hp on the street is plenty fun for me. And if they let go it's no big deal.
@@bigboreracing356 LOL It takes a few Hrs to swap a motor no big deal. And of course Dart blocks are better no one is denying that, They better be for thousands of dollars for just the block. Ill have to go threw 15 engines to spend the same money for just one dart block.
@@mrschwifty5564 Depends what you want to do. To make a sub 11S drag Mustang with a 300 shot of nitrous on a stroked 351 Windsor, assuming you have a diff and trans that can withstand it already, you're looking at about 15k. But we're also talking an engine which at that point would make at least 700-800HP, and over 1400 pound feet of torque. Racing ain't cheap. Also, originally those engines are rated at 215 HP. What're you doing to get another 300HP out of it for apparently no cost?
@@CAepicreviews Ported GT40P heads, Single plane intake, Off the shelf cam, Fitech EFI and boost. All used parts. I am not looking to set records just have fun on the street and not go broke. I have $200 in parts in the heads plus my time to port them, $100 for the intake, $150 for the cam, $800 total in the EFI setup, And $5/600 for the turbo stuff. I know racing ain't cheap but look at the title of the video a little money ? 15K is not a little lol that's all I was trying to get across.
I just have to say the fact they chose a pushrod V8 to exceed 7500 RPM and be used in endurance racing, is awesome. Would have gone with a Ford modular myself
Thank you for this great video! I have always been impressed with Summit Racing parts, this company has it together and is very professional in their builds, and make some awesome engines and parts!😊
I love the Humility and Gratitude, the Men show, it's my dream to Build Engines, Especially Stroke'r and Diagnostics to bring the Maxium to life, nothing more exciting!
@@bmstylee yeah but they made the tittle sound like they were building on a budget. This thing is no budget build. It's an all out pay to play top dollar top shelf sbf build.
@@bmstylee Almost 30yrs ago my hs shop teacher stated : some of you will spend your life making stupid shit go fast , and learn how to take a big pile of money and make it small while doing it. (He had an 8sec car)
@@baddbradd89 Yes. It'd do for slower classes, not any that should be capable of generating more then a G of lateral acceleration, or even higher for braking. In a long constant radius turn, that thing is going to suck air.
baddbradd89 Yup even with that pan it’s not worth going wet sump on a autocross/ road course car. It’ll only take a second of oil starvation to ruin a day at the track.
Hi volume oil pump bad idea!!! and its also the cheapo melling oil pump...not the $100 unit. Even with 7 quart pan and dual oil filter isolators high volume not good. You want the HD high performance pump
It did not need that sniper 1250 hp unit on it. The 600hp would have been fine. I run the 1250 on 2 of my vehicles one is N/A one is boosted and a 575 hp engine dont need that much fuel.
Hey hey love ya work lads ... handful of years back here in Australia the program was getting a run on a knew channel 7 MATE back 2014 ... geeez I was elated when I heard your voice is through RU-vid autoplay suggestions YER YER ... Ali mistake I seen that you've made little Ford wedge was THE DELIVERY ADDRESS ❤❤❤ hey hey have you got your episode of the over diff turbos set up you guys did as told a good amount of folks about it but very few have seen it in practice 🍻❤🙏💪
I wish there were channels with this level of production quality that talked about something other than American OHV engines and didn't have more money than jesus for every build.
I seen a guy put a 150 shot of nitrous on a 500 cubic inch Cadillac engine (a 1975 Cadillac sedan) all stock, and was shocked at how fast it was. A 5,000 pound car going from 0 to 60 in about 6 seconds. Not super fast but much faster than the engine by itself which was about 11 seconds
@@bertgrau9246, I've played with the Cad big blocks, and they are a great engine! Head design, bore/stroke ratio, iron content, and little things like front located distributor, rocker shafts, only 50 lbs heavier than a SBC, etc.! Not an RPM engine, but they can handle abuse!
Fix issue with long timing cover bolts that go through water pump and timing cover. You know where the rust in, break off and leak coolant. I cut timing cover for O-rings and just silicone cover to block
@@dahei870 I like running each stage over and over until the first bolts stop moving.... Go back and check em , you'll be surprised. it's worked for me. (on a head for example)
Can the pipe plugs be drilled with a small hole to do the thing but not starve the front components of oil on startup? I'm surprised this doesn't have a triple angle valve angle cut.
The video showed the front plug not drilled but the rear drilled to control flow, as far as oil starved they put plenty of assembly lube on the components to take care of initial start, doubt they pull anything over a high idle till oil pressure comes up. Old trick is to have a pump drive to hook into a drill and run it till oil is coming out of everything that should get oiled plus pressure on gauge then install distributor.
Did you notice when they started to install the cam it looked like it had rust on the lobes? I guess that's not a big deal on a roller cam but I would have sent it back in favor of a rust free unit.
they should have gotten a 400 cube build and a little more tq and hp so the engine doesn't have to try as hard for the 580 hp maybe some slightly bigger heads.
Wish I could still watch this show in Canada. Used to watch it all the time. But it was dropped and all we have is crap. Okay Maybe its on a premium service now. But it wasn't then.
I wish I could have you guys build an engine for me, I’m from Florida and I have a father son project that I am trying to get done with my son . Just moneys kind of tight right now, I have a stock 302 mustang engine that needs to be refreshed. I love watching you guys when you build Ford engines, I just wish I had the funds to get something done. Keep up the great videos
Look into Ford groups, you can probably find someone that can help you out cheap or even just for something to do. I'm in Alabama, if the situation was a bit different and you were closer I'd offer. I build engines on the side for fun. 400HP out of a nice mannered 289 or 302 is pretty damn easy. Still runs AC and vacuum accessories without issue.
They had a stock engine with less than 200hp as a "race engine". Then get a decent engine built but use a wet sump oiling system and just block one galley and pin hole the other to increase pressure. Not to mention the series sponsor foots the bill (at least partially). I'm so confused. This is all over the place. Enjoyed the build tho, nice job fellows. About as "cheap" of a race engine you could build with any chance of staying together.
What do I do with the 302 I have in my car now? I know, take it to the scrap metal yard and write a check for $12,000+! I love this kind of stuff... I'd like to be able to afford a brand new racing engine. Have fun!
I have an old car, I would like to strengthen the engine in it, what parts should I replace? Please help, I need your information large piston, thick piston rods, large crankshaft is it enough to power the engine Please
@@sategllib2191 The car is 150 horsepower original state, I want to extract 300 hp I have no purpose. Just for pleasure...The car is now full of beds. I disassembled the engine of the car. There is a problem with the crankshaft. There is a problem in the arms of the piston..M9R block, engine used in Nissan and Renault.I don't want to trash the car. I want to strengthen them...
Did I see you place a shim under the Rocker shaft stand base ? What is that shim for ? Proper rocker arm height ? Yea but now he's not going to be able to keep the car under him in the corner's a whole new learning curve begins ..
@@PANTYEATR1 they didnt but some math on a flat top 363 with 11r heads would be 10 or 11 to 1 with the size combustion chmber an 11r uses. Not hard to figure it out if you wanted to know an exact figure
@@KingJT80 i didn't bother looking into it. i have a 427 with about 10.8:1 compression and i made 434hp and 474tq to the wheels. I'm a little salty i didn't make more, but i think i might have another 20hp in it
@@bigboreracing356 You can't tell me because you don't know. I can explain why the hp would be the same because I know what I'm talking about. Fi does a better job and use less fuel. Max hp would be the same between the two if the air, fuel and timing is also the same.
@@bigboreracing356 No you run more timing with fuel injection because fuel is better atomized. This is also why fuel injected engines run better when cold.
I love what your show is all about. but y'all never tell us how much all the work you do on any given project costs. you show us the best way too do things but I want too know the price.
Just way off the lead in statement(s) Way more money spent here than need be. Cylinder heads and camshaft (breathing) is what makes power, not high dollar aftermarket blocks, custom pistons etc A factory Ford 351W bottom end with ARP fasteners is safe to 800hp - for as long as you wish. We're running a Vortec boosted 351, aftermarket heads, a mild comp turbo grind hydraulic roller, pulling 635rwhp - so figure over 690fwph, of the shelf forged pistons in a stock W block with stock rods on a stock CAST crank - ARP bolts all through, no studs on the mains, and no girdle. As far as durability, this engine has seen over ten years of Hard Street racing. I've torn it down for inspection twice in that time and there's no signs of being near its power limit. The big ends on the rods are still on size within. 0002" of when the engine was built and same goes for the mains. No signs of main cap walk or odd wear patterns in any of the bearings - now that's a stout FACTORY short block. As far as 8.2 deck blocks - the early to middle '70s 302 block is MUCH stronger than the later 5.0 block. At the transition from 302 to 5.0, Ford removed considerable iron from the 302 block - iron that provided more strength than the "new" 5.0. I've yet to see an older block split like the 5.0 castings are famous for.
all i see is money,the dart block is what 5-6k? forged eagle crank ? 2k? those rods $1500+ forged slugs $500-$750 this is a $20,000 + build and thats on the extreme low estimate side
Still using a central camshaft with pushrods and two valves/cylinder... Good luck boys. (You'll need it.) And really? Dyno an engine with brand new parts without braking it in? 😢
With too much spring pressure for a SADI core and limited oil supply to the lifters as well....that already have a bad rap in the racing community for eating the rollers. You NEVER restrict oil to the lifters!! Most especially in an endurance application. That will also kill the valvesprings in short order since that same (Now restricted) oil supply is the only thing cooling them. Simple answer, run standard oiling and run extra oil returns from the heads to the sump of the oil pan.
If it has triple the power what are they using a Junk yard 302! I run my Fox Mustang 302 on the Dyno last year and had 276 to the rear wheels! My car is a stock 302 with ford parts and an after market Cam !
