A Lucky Find And A HAWT Rotor For A Wind Turbine 

Thought the same a while back. Found a paper online showing the potential energy of the water isnt anywhere near enough to make it worthwhile (

Some people don't think it's worth their time to bend over and pick up a penny...

.....¾" diameter , laid along 100 metres , how about the height measurement ?. .Testing with tap water at the typical pressure is equivalent to say a conservative 20 metre height difference .Head that is , we say the head of water .

@@charlesdickens6706 well , steep country around here, i would estimate at least 30m in height difference, and- the tap water test was done with 1/2 inch garden hose, so there is also an significant increase of sheer water mass. but if there is not enough power i can always add some more cheap plastic hose. the brook goes up much above that 30m level. what i would like to know is the actual output of this scooter motor as a generator at nominal rpm

......then there's the flow rate in litres per second . A plastic bucket is about ten litres capacity . So time how many seconds it takes to fill from the town supply and then from the brook too .

Yes, I have seen a video where a guy put a generator on his pet's hamster wheel and lit up a single led :-) it was about 5 years ago that I saw it.

Hi. I have a similar project on mind. Also a trickle charger but a bit larger with two old drums on top of each other cut as savoniuses. Did you get to your trickle charger?

Or turn it 90 degrees to a VAWT, save a lot of time, effort, complexity and problems...

@@will_doherty directionally might help a VAWT .. drag on blades returning into air etc. Not sure quite how strong such effects are...Probably only starts to matter much at high peripheral speeds. Anyway...along lines of sheets of metal bent so they can cover sectors of rotor. . .. bearings allow such to rotate around VAWT axis. Vanes on all so they rotate arount VAWT. experiment with different vane angles to adjust where turbine scooping/exiting size of openings etc Probably not worth it if wind changes direction frequently...but who knows if it's not tried etc.

I have seen attempts at those types of inventions before, the issue others have had is the tar build up which if left unchecked can cause a chimney fire. . However you are onto something, Have you thought about convection heat for the outside of the chimney.. Have fun building.

@@pip1973nztok No I am not working on anything to do with this. Just and observer.

Hook a angle grinder to it

The wind resistance added from turning the turbine and thereby energy losses would always be greater than the energy you get out of it.

He has a video where he adds some capacitors to it to generate a voltage. I'm not sure what video nu.ber it is.. there are some people who drill into the armature and epoxy magnets into place making them permanent magnet motors. Those can generate power.

Do you not watch the video.

The virus can’t live on surfaces for more than a few hours. It’s not that kind of virus.

@@midnightgardener8346 that depends on the surface can be more than 24 hours anyway Rob has shown us how to make bleach 👍

Is a shaded pole motor the same type they use in microwave fan?

@@williammartinez3392 Hello William, I can not guarantee that every microwave oven will use a shaded pole motor. However, if you have one you should be able to recognise it by its construction. It will be small and if you can get access to the shaft and can hold it you should be able to prevent it from turning when it is switched on due to its very low starting torque. The motor will normally have only one coil mounted on a laminated ferromagnetic steel core. When energised with a.c. the magnetic field will alternate making the rotor want to turn first in one direction and then in the other. The overall effect of this is that the rotor does not turn at all! To make it rotate it needs a second field and this is achieved by SHADING the pole tips. The shading consists of a loop, (coil), of heavy thickness copper wire short circuited on itself and slipped over the pole tips. This should be easy to see. The effect of the shorted loop is to produce a second field which is time displaced from the main field. The two fields now act together to produce a rotating field instead of the pulsating alternating field from the single coil. The rotating field is not very strong and hence the low torque. Hope this helps to answer your question.

His problem is that he is limited in the drop of the water. If he hooked it up to our gutters, he would get far more power. About 2000sqft of collection area and a 20 foot drop. With rainstorms that can drop 2" of rain in 15 minutes. Even with 6 downspouts, they have overflowed at times.

​@@gravelydon7072 Presents a few issues, the scenario you have there. I agree, more head, more water volume, more power. Awesome! Right up to the point where reality and physics bite you in the arse. Hydro is only any good if you can keep a constant head and flow. It is a massive investment in time and resources to capture energy 'only when it rains'. If you want to spread the rainfall out over time, you have to store that water that hits the roof, at roof level, (as is stored in the gutters with the toilet valve) until it can be used or it just gets dumped as waste overflow. To store all the heavy rainfall water at 20 ft head you will need some pretty significant, high up, tanks on stilts. Your turbine and nozzle driving it will have to be tuned to suit your own situation. As will (and this is the really important bit) the generator and its reactance force and the relationship between those forces and the expected output IN TO A LOAD such as charging a battery. . This is why it is SO important that Robert shows us what his creations will generate IN TO A LOAD. Not a load of tiny capacitors, a real, charging, load, over time. Using measurements that the rest of the planet understands. There are endless youtube designs for whirligig rotors of the VAWT design and 90% are just things that spin freely and... well, that's all they do. The other 9.9% show how utterly shite these things are at efficiency, maintenance, practical usability and are wasters of time, creativity and money and the final 0.1% are highly engineered, seriously researched functional bits of very expensive kit that are STILL not as efficient as even home made HAWT turbines made for the last 40 years by people like Hugh Piggott. (Mr Piggott also has many videos on winding coils specifically to suit your application, desired voltage and current and how to pot them in resin to make a proper job of it, with real data.) . It would be good, to just have at least one finished project, with common DATA people can see, so that all the people Robert brings along with him can decide if it really is worth all the effort. We still don't know if the gasifier will run the generator. All that energy and time and effort? Is it just me that's pissed off with this? Or has everyone packed a flask and sandwiches for the eternal trip up the garden path to jump, blinded by awesomeness, off the cliff edge?

@@Godshole Correct on needing steady flows. Or storage of the amounts that fall quickly at the roof top. In the case of one rainstorm I was at the rain gauge location for, we had a 2" rainfall in 15 minutes. That on top of our house roof would equal out to about 2.5 tons of water falling in 15 minutes. Just think if you had to deal with one of our 18-24 inch rainfalls in 24 hours.

​@@gravelydon7072 It was watching a recent video by the youtube channel 'Practical Engineering', chap called Grady, that set all this going. His 5 Jan 2021 short on flood management. You might find it interesting to dig around in his archive. He goes into flow and management regularly but more to do with waterways and dams as well as grid power and such. Very unchallenging factual clear presentation. Thinking about the amounts of water you mention makes me imagine you might be better off with boats.....

@@Godshole I've seen and enjoyed a number of his videos. Flood control strikes close to home as for 18 years, that is what I did for a living. But one thing you learn rather quickly is you can't control floods. In fact, down here you can't even manage them very well. Our system was designed to handle X amount of water. Nature always comes along and decides to dump X plus X on top of you just to prove a point. Our home sits on a ridge. 10'ASL for the ground and 8 additional inches to the garage floor. The back corner of the property was at about 8'ASL. The road out front, 9'ASL. Now our normal water level is at about 4'ASL so we are 6' above it. In the rainy season, that water level normally goes up to about 6'ASL. Now 2 feet of difference sounds like a lot, but it isn't. The rock we sit on is 1/5th porous. So that 1 inch of rain equals a 5 inch rise in the water level if it is a widespread storm. Get a 4" rain and you have lost all that storage space. Now what was the design spec for the system, 3/4" of rain in 24 hours for most of the pump stations. I have seen water flows going across our road and water levels with the water 1" from getting in the garage. First floor of the house sits another 8 inches above the garage floor so we don't flood. At times, water has bypassed our structures and flowed overland. Or during one wet Hurricane, the structure next to a pump station was overtopped with a level of greater than 10 foot. And we were pumping even more water into that area.

No