Beside the mentioned faulty belay from above, it also seem that you dont clip the rope to the anchor when leading on a multi pitch. If the leader the falls off before the first bolt, that will be a factor-2 fall straight into the belayers harness. That is not safe or pleasant.
6:46 This looks like an incorrect configuration to belay a follower. Without a belay device that has a “guide mode“, hanging the device on the anchor will do nothing as the rope running over the carabiner will act as a pulley and the brake strand isn’t in the correct orientation if a fall occurs.
Insisting on doing things differently that will likely result in the sun setting before the adventure ends ✅ via ferrata on climbing gear ✅... I wonder if its a rob thing.... 🤔 At least you didn't leave your bags at the bottom 🐐🐐🐐
Hello! My ATC doesn't have the eye for guide mode, so I wouldn't have been able to put it into that configuration. The configuration at that timestamp is simply a direct belay off the bolts, it's definitely not as objectively good as an auto locking locking device or guide mode since it doesn't auto lock, however it has the advantage of being able to take slack a lot quicker (Rob is a fast climber on 5c pitches), and being safer for myself, as if Rob had fallen, the weight difference is significant enough that I physically can't stand. In addition you can give slack easily, unlike in guide mode where giving slack is fairly difficult. This video isn't a guide on multipitch belaying! We use a range of devices and techniques situationally, depending on the belay stance, difficulty of pitch and who is belaying/climbing. There are lots of ways to be safe, but the key is to be confident in whatever device and configuration you're using for a given pitch.
@@SgurrClimbing thanks for your answer. I was just wondering. I'm pretty new to multi pitch climbing (just did my first on kalymnos where I went inspired by your other video =)) and always interested in how other people do stuff.
@@SgurrClimbing Unfortunately an atc in this configuration is significantly worse than any other belay options you could have used in that situation. A munter hitch off the anchor would have been better, or using the atc on your harness. This is because the resistance that an atc offers relies on the brake strand of the rope being pulled in the opposite direction to the climber strand. in this case they are in the same direction, which is why its very easy to give slack, its also very easy to drop your follower on a fall. get a simple guide atc and you'll absolutely love it Thank you for the very cool video, I love to see multipitch climbs being done around the world, a true form of adventure
Same thoughts as the above comment. Alternatively, a redirect carabiner could be used so that the tube device was in a better position. Overall, a lovely video but you should do some more research on belaying from anchors. Hoping to repeat this route in the autumn.
It is a tuber not in a guide mode config. Do not do this it's like having the rope freeflowing over only a carabiner. This is basically a free solo unless this lady is abnormaly strong. Put the belay device on your self, then through the anchor(like a toprope) if you do not have a guide plate. Still I love the content, keep it comming Sgurr!
The belay technique at around 12:00 is life threatening. Unless you have abnormal strength, you would not have been able to hold your partner if he were to weigh the rope. That is not how you belay from the top using a tubular device.
@nakkisormi8400 I left a longer comment on the other thread in this comment section, which responds to this issue generally. Thanks for your concern - we will be getting Lucy a guide mode device!
@@Sackfullofbadgers Short section of the video was cut out - as you can see from the other comment threads, we had a slightly non-ideal configuration for bringing up the second. Cut it out since we realised people who hasn't climbed multipitch might blindly copy it hence why the timestamp is now confusing!
@@SgurrClimbing This is not really about the gear. You could easily rig a belay device without the guide function to belay from the anchor by clipping the brake strand higher than the belay device. Since you are both really good at climbing, it is just about understanding the skills you need to be climbing outside of a single pitch sport climb.
