This is a brief video showing the basics of maintaining a sharp edge on carving tools using the FlexCut Tools Slipstrop and FlexCut Gold polishing medium.
Thank you very much for the explainations, especially the introduction about whether and when you use the stone. Have a great day, greetings from Italy
Charlie Durham, Thanks. I really need to get more in depth with cleaning up palm tools and my Sloyd Hook Knife, it’s a real challenge to sharpen. Life happens, so I haven’t done much video in awhile, but hope to soon. Thanks for the comment!
Could you sharpen a regular scalpel or xacto on the slipstrop? I have one for my lino carving tools, I can't see why it wouldn't, it'd be a flatter blade so use the back I guess?
My flex cut knives have a blackened blade (I believe someone switched their tools for mine). My set was relatively new before then. Anyway my blade doesn’t have that shiny edge and they don’t sharpen very well. What/ how would you suggest I do? I appreciate your answer in advance.
Some of their blades do have a more raw finish, usually on the non-working side of a curved blade or the interior face of a gouge, but the majority of mine are high polished. I have an older set, the 3 knife starter set, and the detail knife over the years has darkened a bit, but that’s probably a combination of oil from my hands and hundreds of hours of use in probably no less than a dozen different species of wood, in various states of being seasoned. You may try a little bit of a fine metal polish like flitz polish or brasso to restore their luster (using extreme caution of course). As far as holding an edge, I’ve sharpened everything from my pocket knives to antique high carbon steel butcher’s knives with the Flexcut gold and a strop and have always been able to get the mirror edge, though sometimes only through a considerable amount of elbow grease. I’m not a bladesmith or a metallurgist, but it sounds like they may have been overheated at some point, which can happen if they are sharpened on a grinder or other powered device very easily with such a thin blade. If the hardening or the temper in the metal has been disturbed, that would cause both of the issues you are speaking of. I know one used to be able to send the knives back to Flexcut and they will re-hone the edge for you for a nominal fee, that would be my personal suggestion. They may be able to diagnose something, and get your blades back up and running for you. Hope this helps. Thanks for the view, and the comment!
Hi Thank you for a helpful video :) I cant seem to get my compound on the strop... The leather becomes a bit yellow, but instead of getting smooth it starts to bristle and becomes an uneven surface. Maybe its because the gold compound is too hard? Or do you think I'm doing it wrong? Kind regards bendik
Hello, it doesn’t take much at all, you’re not really trying to get a huge buildup, just more like a crayon or piece of chalk. You will eventually build up more and more on the leather, but it does take some time. Hope this helps!
@@clarkschwenke1 I think Flexcut’s SlipStrop video is misleading by recommending “liberally” applying the compound! It’s been my experience that it doesn’t take much!
@@tomt9543 my original slipstrop has a much finer grain leather (and a much larger piece) than the ones I’ve seen lately. They really only hold, as you stated, a rather small amount, and once you’ve “glazed” the leather with it a few times, even less. I really only look to dull the surface rather than go for a heavy buildup. After a few swipes it’s shiny again, and you can make the compound almost outlast the strop.
@@clarkschwenke1 Agreed! Do you ever perform any cleaning on your strops? I’ve always been of the opinion that a strop is used until it’s no longer effective, then trash it and get or make a new one.
@@tomt9543 I’m of the same opinion, leather is usually easy enough to find in a strop sized piece somewhere, and if I need the angles of the back side of the slip strop and I wear them out, I’ll just replace it.
I am a complete noob to carving. Some say the V edge is the best (on wood of course) and some use the chisel edge which I suppose is just on the cutting edge which all may or may not be preference. I got a new Damascus (guess that is how its spelled) carving blade that has the chisel type edge it came and does not know if I should try to change it to a V edge or (flat edge rather) or just sharpen it and go on. HELP!!! Anybody out there!!!
Ron Weasley I think it depends on the tool. I have some that are shaped both ways, and I know there is a method to the madness, but I will be the first to admit I know not why. I do know my detail knives have a double sided taper, but my curved blades do not, or if they do it is very minimal. I will research this a bit and see what I can find out.
I guess flexcut cheaped out on the leather on the back because yours covers the entire back and the new one is a pitiful 1 inches wide now! and all you did was show how to use a flat strop you didn't even use the V or round shaped wood parts that people buy this useless block of wood for! Why not call this video how to strop because nothing you showed required this "Slipstrop"
Fair enough. I’ve not seen a more recent version of the slip strop, and to be quite honest, I have several other strops that I have made that are more purpose built for larger or specialty knives. I do use the profiles, but not near as much as just leather, and as stated I have different leather for different applications as well.
The V and U shaped wood profiles are for removing the burr on the backside of the edge after stropping. They’re not there for the actual stropping action.
