This is the best video I have found yet. I am breaking down any electronic/electrical items to raise funds for the 3 Veterans organisations that support me. Veterans Outdoors, Endeavour Wheelchair Rugby Club, and Veterans Sailing with PYS all based in Plymouth. In the 1st year I have raised about £200 split 3 ways.
Thank you for this video. I have a new scrapper at my house. My 4 year old grandson. Yes a 4 years old pre-schooler😮. He asks me, “what’s this” or “why” about everything he takes apart. Now I can say let’s see what that is. Lately he has started to want to “pee-pop-you-ate” (depopulate for English speakers). So we have a 2 quart jar of his treasured parts.
I salvage boards for components for my own use and for repairing other equipment and for electronics projects. I have been overlooking the tantalums and ceramic capacitors (basically all the SMD types) as cannot reuse them. You gave a good idea to save them at least for scrap. Cheers for that.
some of those black 'tantalum' capacitors look like diodes. You can type the numbers written on them into google and it should bring up the datasheet for a component which should tell you whether it is a diode or not.
Loved the doco style of this video! I believe the other black capacitors are tantalum too. There is also silver and lead in tanties, lots of goodies not easy to get at lol. Loved that pot of contacts, that looked so lovely!!!
Thank you Sollers. I thought those others were tantalum as well but wasn't sure. I've been putting off cleaning up those contacts. Seems like a tedious job!
Hi, good video. I am a hobby scrapper and do micro scrapping when Quebec winter is ruling the place and scrap is scarce. Here I share other video infos I found. The fuses would have their inner little wire made from silver. May be when the fuse is too hot, the silver melt and goes on the brass fuse ends ? Although their value is probably higher for copper, some videos have showned that musfet also contain gold. Finally, on the right side of the board you use at the beginning of the video, the metallic boxes are mostly of brass. I can see that while using the file on them. If not yellow and magnetic, they are iron. Some of them are partly brass, partly iron so they stick to the magnet. Rarely, they are of stainless steel or nickel plated copper. They adds up to the piles. By adding small brass pieces to the bigger ones I find (like the tap), I succeeded to have a 5.1 litter bucket that weight 90 pounds.
Nice video and you provide clear and comprehensive descriptions. I think what you call "tactical" switches are better known as "tactile" switches, because one must actually touch them to make them operate. Also, just as a general point, when I remove aluminum heatsinks, they often come off with a bit of steel which needs to be removed to get "clean" price. Finally, I also really like the channels you gave shout outs to as well!
Thank you for watching and for the comments. You are if course correct. I always get tactical and tactile mixed up. I do the same with platinum and palladium for some reason. Yes you do need to clean the heatsimk before you can put it into clean ally, a good point to make.
Excellent video, this will help me make a devide sorting box. It was very well explained and easy to understand. The experience you have shared is so valuable to those who do this and gratefully appreciated.
Absolutely awesome episode brother start to finish. You can make nitric acid £8.00 a litre (I have got the price down to.) scary the first time you make it and the second.
You are a braver man than me buddy but I have noticed that you a fine l fume hood for your chemicals so you have a good setup. I might be sending all this stuff to you then 😉
This is a great video. Very helpful. I am a beginning hobbyist microscrapper. It answered several questions I had. Your fingers look like mine. ...lots of tiny scrapes and cuts.
@@ScrappingScotland nope. I just save all my boards. I pull some copper from low grade, but haven't started depopulation yet. I'm waiting to see if we ever get a buyer here.
Mosfets, as you said, are transistors. All transistors contain gold bond wires. Up to you to decide if recovery of them from mosfets are worth your time. The chips, resembling MLCCs and resistors, on the circuit board marked with the letter L are inductors - just copper. The metal and plastic transistors (3 legs) have gold bond wires, and some have gold plated legs. A few boards have silver and gold-plated fuses, or gold-banded crystal oscillators. You didn't mention diodes, which contain silver. Glass and solid fuses both contain silver. Printers and CD/DVD players are a source of gold.
@johnross8939 thanks for the information. I'm definitely still learning a lot of components so I always appreciate any additional information. Diodes is not something I collect which is why they aren't mentioned. I don't seem to come across a lot of them but might start doing that now.
@@ScrappingScotland you’ve covered virtually all the good stuff mate , there’s only 2 more things I would say that are very good to look out for that are a bit different looking to the usual types , are gold cap fuses they they have gold plated ends and gold wire inside , smaller and different shape to the normal type fuse , other is gold band crystal oscillators , gold plated band around outside plus gold inside , a lot smaller and look different to usual crystal oscillators, I look for them and even I miss them till second time I look over the boards , a lot of people miss those 2 items and they are high for gold recovery when have a load of them, plus keep them separate from the others
You have lots of stuff! Very helpful video when I’m trying to learn about e-waste myself buddy! Thanks for sharing! I really enjoyed watching this helped me learn more about e-waste! I say it’s too far to sell to board-sort so does your scrap yard take that? Awesome video!
Thank you buddy. Glad you found it helpful. Yeah we don't have a boardsort here. Somebody needs to fix that for sure. My plan is to sell it the gold and silver bearing items on ebay or something but you never know, maybe I'll get the opportunity to try and recover it myself one day.
Fantastic explanation of ewaste recycling at a component level this is Mr SS. I’m a UK scraper too who has been saving most these components for years. Do you think in the future that the chemicals required for recovery will be available to us mere mortals in the UK or has that ship sailed?
Personally I think it's sailed my friend. You can obtain a licence for using the chemicals but you would need to have a good setup. Fume hood etc. Besides nitric is expensive so would cut deeply into any gold or silver profit. Better to save them and sell them.
@@ScrappingScotland I’m hearing you SS, just not viable for us UK micro scrappers to process. I like yourself scrap for the interest and enjoyment but do find it frustrating that we can’t further our interest much like the likes of 999 Dusan, S Irish and indeed the rest of the world! Keep up the good work chap. 👍
Enjoyed your vid. Are you doing refining or just selling on the recovered components? Just a note, it’s not illegal to have Nitric. You need an EPP licence which is straight-forward to get as long as you’re not a bawbag 😁
The brass connector if you separate them put the real brass in a separate tube and the silver type separate or Mey scrap yard is mixed brass We're do you sell you stuff we have no sale in ireland
If you have no wife, kids, or job, and you're sitting in the constant Scottish fog with only sheep wandering around outside your window, then it's a good way to keep from going crazy. But otherwise, it's a very hard-earned living.
But if a Part Works , You can Sell the Part for more than the Gold , Imagine Little Johnny in 2034 Looking to Build his first Pentium Pro or 486 DOS Box and almost all the Parts are gone . :( QC
It's the scrapping that I enjoy but as you know this is just the beginning. Scrap and refine enough of it and you might get that bar or coin. A lot of work and effort though which is why I just sell the components. I would love to be able to refine it and make a bar or coin
@chrismurphy2769 I've sorted like this for demonstration purposes and to show what each item holds in terms of metals. I find it the easiest way to store them but open to know a better way for sure.
@@ScrappingScotland ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nQ_Z1Iem2es.html I think this is the cheapest, most reasonable method for separating all the metals from the other "e-frass". Probably best after manually ripping out the largest copper/aluminum masses. Ultimately you seem to be left with a slightly homogeneous mess of basically every conceivable solid metal and still more e-frass. Continuing after that point seems to be the hardest challenge. I haven't given it enough thought yet but it seems the best method after that would be some sort of chemical separation using cheaper/weaker acids (or melting points) to "remove" most of the lesser valued metals. Basically trying to segregate chemically poor value vs high value. Depending on your intent, it might be best to just sell the "co-mingled" "enriched ore" to some sort of metal refining company. Depending on your connections. Additionally this process creates piles of waste of the "other stuff" that you don't really want. This might be sell-able to someone since it's finely processed. But I might consider just homogenizing it and forming it into a standard-ish brick using heat and pressure. Since it seems to be high in plastic it might just self-glue and you can mass produce recycled, yet slightly toxic, and still durable bricks. If you're storing the metal for it's value you can always "shelve" it at that point and leave the refining for a future date. There are larger/more specialized machines similar to this that the "huge corporations" are using that seem to do the same thing, but much better. That would be ideal. But all these machines seem impossibly expensive to someone, such as myself.
@@ScrappingScotland Additionally you might consider selling these individual components as "working parts" rather than going through all the mess of re-refining them back into base metals and then back into usable new parts. Many of those components basically work for decades, and as a "completed manufactured part" it might hold more value than the precious metals they contain. However that seems like and impossibly tedious task. I can't possibly organize that well enough, let alone "test for defects". It's viable if you owned a massive company with lots of cheap labor though. Similarly you can do the same thing with the "massive piles of mostly computer-compatible screws". It seems like they're much more valuable as a "manufactured screw" than as a "dirty steel mix"
@chrismurphy2769 Due to restrictions on the use of acids in the UK, I don't actually refine any of these components and my goal is always to sell them which is another reason to separate them and store them in this manner until there is enough to sell to make it viable. This is just a hobby for me so I'm in no rush to move things quickly so can build up the collection and then sell them on.
Very thorough video brother. The red on your skin looks irritated, hope its nothing serious. ( Edit: I can't believe how much I've thrown away in the past...smh)
Thanks Dale. I have a skin condition called psoriasis and it creates this red patch on my face unfortunately. Sometimes you can't notice it and other times it can be very red.
@dalemills8052 it doesn't hurt buddy. The skin just renews itself to quickly and can become red. It looks really red after showering and washing my face but it calms down quite quickly. Had it for over 20 years now. It's doesn't bother me anymore.
I micro scrap as well as refine the gold and silver. Not getting rich but I have a nice workshop that my wife barely comes out to. Gives us both time alone.
Nice video. See you keep the disc capacitors too. I also saw the Dusan vid where he had soviet era capacitors of a dull brown colour supposedly they should have silver or palladium content. He also found some large resistors with hidden gold inside the end caps though i guess those are going to be mostly very old tech as well. I keep everything now 😁
at 29:04 those could be diodes where the slanted edge is a polarity sign. At 29.32 mosfets, there could be gold bonding wires there. At 34.25 Inductors, don't throw away the ferrite iron casings. Crush them into a fine powder and sprinkle onto your instant glue before mating the two joining pieces of anything. The ferrite iron will add holding power to the glue. At 15.50 MLCC, you did not mention that the small totally black ones are MLCI inductors and have silver in them. Good video.
Thank you brother, these are just the open boxes. I have so much more that is full. You're welcome, always got to get a Scrapitall mention in now and again 😀
The plain black tantalum looking components could be inductors, which contain small copper coils. It is usually easy to tell when they are on the circuit board, as the silkscreen number for the component will start with "L" for inductors, and "C" for capacitors, or "D" for diodes.
Excellent video I would like to say mosfets are silver plated and have gold bonding wires also brass connectors can also be silver or gold plated they are not always nickel coated especially on pcb's.
That was my understanding too but there are little mlcc like things on the boards that have an L before the number. They may still be inductors but they look like mlcc's for some reason
Not sure to be honest as I haven't tried to sell them yet. Also when selling online, they are only worth what someone else will pay for them. I haven't found a business that will buy the individual components yet
@@ScrappingScotland yea pretty sure its for the high melting point to avoid contacts getting welded together, the percentage in there can vary but yea if you try to melt them youll probably find it very hard
hi all scrappers Ive been scrapping for some years now mostly from cars more so the nuts and bolts in the last 3 years I have had myself a devil forge and have been scrapping all my cans and my friends to make ally ingots , I also smelt copper and brass from all electronics and cables attaching appliances to the mains lalso strip big electric motorsstarter motors from cars and trucks as well as alternators
I'm not sure how the lacquer could be removed to be honest. I'm not sure it would cost effective to do so. Dirty copper is usually categorised that way because it's attached to other metals. If its difficult to separate them then sometimes you just have to take the hit
Hi scrapping , Somehow managed to delete my comment. For anyone interested some older boards IC chips are interchangeable and are sat on a bed , the beds are believed to contain brass no silver. Another one for you please Scrapping.. pins with gold plating on the tips , worth recovering the entire pin or just the tips ? Worth splitting them tips and pins or keeping together? Thanks
@@ScrappingScotland thanks for that. Some of the smaller contact connectors especially from the edges of tvs are so small and brittle it’s been a struggle getting them out , what’s the cons of leaving them in the plastic , when the time comes to process can this plastic be melted by torch ? Any tip ? Thanks for the knowledge and the uploads
@rememberremember3489 I try not to burn plastic on any way as this is not environmentally friendly. Takes time and effort but I'm not a fan of incinerating plastics.
Yes absolutely, copper is worth more than brass. I didn't do that in the video but mentioned it. I will separate these before it goes into the brass stockpile. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
grind everything up, into powder form, pour in "Aqua regia" to dissolve all the gold, then refine the gold using the "Wohlwill process" through electrolysis
@@ScrappingScotland not necessary as the dissolved metal will gather at the cathode, all you need is to have at the start is a thin golden thread or thin gold wire that's all you need
@@ScrappingScotland the pure gold bar is to perform the final 99.999% purification process what you need now is to have this process to get you the initial, not so pure gold
a few years ago a factory near my house, they do dissembling electronic parts, closed down they had bags and bags of old cpus i bought a couple of them, grind them up to powder, and did that At the end I got some gold, not very very pure, only like 92% or something like that, which I sold.
