Very well done. Thank you. @Trenton & Heath , I am sending my shoes to you for repair. Thank you for broadening my shoe options beyond Ferragamo and Johnston and Murphy.
Great work guys. The problem is a lot of young people and also not so young are not educated about quality shoes and the entire process of shoe making art. I discovered this world recently and I'm in love. It is an art , mastery and quality materials.
Wonderful collaboration. Will take a look at these options! "The big elephant in the porcelain shop" - Hugo Jacomet. Quotes that only Hugo can pull off haha
Lemargo, Officine Creative, Untamed Street, Franceschetti. To me, these 4 brands (all made in Montegranaro) are the quintessential of under the radar brands in that price range (leaning more towards 400-500). Incredible quality and style, and they're never mentioned
Thank you informing me of these alternatives. Quick question: Which of these 4 brands is your favorite in respect to (i) lace up dress shoes (appropriate for corporate attire) and (ii) loafers (again for corporate attire) Thank you!
Frankly, Allen Edmonds' quality these days is average at best. At the same price point, Carmina is a world apart for leathers used, built quality and finish.
I also personally prefer Carmina, for all the reasons you quote, but especially from a stylistic stand point. Have a blessed Sunday! Johnny! Cheers, Hugo
I had 2 pairs of Alan Edmons from 1998, they w are OK but my favorite shoe is Alden from Massachusetts. They are beautifully made, I am still wearing shoes from them from 1986 thru 1997. They are also a shoemakers dream to work on.
@@williammosezar I have a soft spot for Alden, and own several of them. I do, however, find them terribly overpriced, especially for models not made of cordovan. They are priced at the same level as the Crockett & Jones Handgrade line, which is substantially better finished.
TLB and Carlos Santos are IMHO the best value for cost on this list. CNES don’t fit me well. I think JFitzpatrick is a great brand as well. Carmina makes beautiful shoes but their pricing is in the 500-700 range
Hugo and Sonya; Trenton and Heath, thank you. As I watch this, I'm about to travel from Bristol to London in 8 hours or to the London Super Truck show 2022 Shoe - shoegazing! Boy am I looking forward to it :-) Thank you. Tony
Id love it if you could have a look at the brand Bridlen, ive tried them myself and I have to say its probably the best shoe I've seen to come out of India , id say they're as good as CNES or Fugashin if not better (depending on taste of course). As always, great video hugo, looking forward for the shoes book still :)
You enrich the viewers education and encourage them to expand their awareness and appreciation towards small investments that can enhance their quality of life. Greetings from Bogota, Colombia, South America.
My Dad gave me a pair of quality shoes over ten years ago. At the time I knew nothing about shoes which weren’t running shoes. The shoes my father gave me, I think that they were probably Loakes, made me feel happier and a little more elegant. M.
Good discussion. I have been watching these fellows talk shoes for the last year or so and good to see three true experts gathered at this mini summit of footwear.
Dear Hugo and Trenton and Heath, Amazing video... I couldn't stop laughing and pushed the like button just when you said "It's like an orgasm for them". Hugo, I must say all shoe companies mentioned have their place, design aesthetic and value. I have tried and known almost all of them but it must be said that J. Fitzpatrick, what he makes and delivers is something in a league of it's own. His finishing and durability have been quite a conversion factor for some people I know. I have still not tried TLB but hopefully that will also change soon. But in my opinion Justin makes shoes that have true value for money. I mean I sometimes cannot believe that the shoe I am seeing is worth $375 or $475. I myself don't but my father owns a lot of shoes from Cleverly and I do polish them for him sometimes and I always wonder that there are many quality elements present in J. Fitzpatrick line as well. It is always great to see someone putting in so much hard work in for what they are passionate about. Just wanted to share my thoughts and for the record I do love many other brands mentioned in the video as well. I Wish You All the Best..
This video is so helpful because I struggle to find well made shoes, particularly at reasonable prices. It is also as you all said that a good pair of leather shoes not only confer confidence but comfort. As you said, many larger brands can sell shoes with reduced quality at higher prices. My biggest issue, though, is finding shoes for extra wide feet (EEEE), a genetic inheritance that is so much trouble. Any suggestions? Many of these shoemakers may only have D width or EE at most. Allen & Edmonds is not bad, but I was hoping to find different styles, such as seen on Meermin, Beckett & Simonon, and Crockett & Jones.
Dear Andrew, as Trenton explains in the video, offering a vast range of width is what sets AE apart from many other brands, and except maybe JM Weston in France (but in another price bracket), no other brands offers this kind of choices. However, some brands start to offer large widths on some models. You'll have to dig in their website and browse. All my best, Hugo
I'm glad you mentioned Lottusse, I think they are really underrated these days. I own 2 pairs and their quality is comparable if not better than many other brands.
How many/which of these suggested offer width options? Like many, I’ve not been pleased with AE but have, to some extent begrudgingly, bought from them due to their selection of widths/last. Suggestions?
You're right Jonathan. AE is leading the way for gentlemen with large feet. JM Weston (but on a more expansive price bracket) also offers a large choice of width. Cheers, Hugo
I bought some loafers from them in 2020, their size 45, and right now think they have one or two shoes on their website in that size. Hugo has talked them up so much I guess their inventory is low these days. ;)
By the way, your viewers in France and else where in the francophonie can't wait to see you for another Discussions Sartoriale from that room at Burgundy 😁😁😁😅. Lovers of french language would relate
Didn't know about their channel so thanks for the introduction. Funny to hear a discussion with a mix of French and Southern accents. Luckily I've lived in Geneva and grew up in Florida, so I understood you both perfectly!! Kudos to Sonya for the camera work!
I love you’re channel! I know you have gotten questions about why you don’t talk about more important things than clothing in the past. And I think you represent more than you give yourself credit for We see more labor trafficking and pollution in the world today than ever before, it’s just been outsourced. So no one talks about WHY are their shoes so cheap. WHY are your shirts 5$? The materials are worth the same amount. People just aren’t getting paid along the way. And when you cut on quality, more gets thrown away. So when you you promote quality craftsmanship you promote fair trade products that will last. So it’s not that these products are expensive, it’s just surprising when you learn the true price of things. And it’s been a fun journey to begin. And something I can feel proud of as I slowly save up and get each piece along the way and comforting to know I won’t have to replace them again every year; as Trenton and Heath pointed out.
Hugo, this is great to see you in America 🇺🇸. Trenton and Heath are both great cobblers. Work together. Bring men's fashion, suits and shoes, back home to America. Business is open.
Very good was this update about men"s shoes production quality and styles. It is and that must be said again and again for the workers who make these shoes a breadless job, the earnings are and have always been poor. For example, a lawyer earns 500 Dollars an hour and the shoemaker works a whole month for 500 Dollars. Young people therefore see no future in this business because it is something like dying out. In cities the shoemakers have disappeared because the rents have become too expensive. For me the best shoemakers are the western boot makers, which is the most beautiful craft among the shoemakers, but it is dying out. Boots will soon only come from factories and most of them from China. Thanks you all, I love your videos with this old craft art.
Dear Peter, many thanks for your message. However I would be a little less pessimistic than you as more and more young men are interested in this traditional trade (there's never been as many bespoke shoemakers in Japan as today for example). The battle to protect and promote this craft is tough, but not lost. All my best wishes, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS Dear Hugo Thanks for your reply, today i see more younger people they go into the orthopic shoe making. But i never saw a nice pair of handmade ortho shoes as beautyful made like bespoken shoes. Construction wise mainly cement lasted. Cheers and regards Peter
I recently heard you mention Mariano Shoes, Please be careful with them. They are not legitimate! I have bought from them and they have just take my money without shipping the product. $500 wasted. It's now been 7 months since I paid.
I thought that decent shoes for a decent price were over. Thanks very much for the information and the fun discussion. I checked out a bunch of these. Tell me, please, when this foolish obsession with no socks is going away? It looks childish. It's hard on the shoes. And no man over twenty should ever show his feet or ankles unless he's at the pool or beach.
I enjoyed the conversation. I'm a little concerned about sizing. How would one acquire a size measurement that would convey to all of these shoe makers?
You would benefit from a director. I imagine if other people like me who see on the title "best shoes under 500 00" they would expect to hear a list. You have a reputation for being so off topic. That if I see you in the picture I keep scrolling. The only reason I clicked on this because you have shoes on the title page. It's not because you don't know what you are talking about. You are very knowledgeable you just can't stay on topic. I look forward to the day when you actually have a list.
Haha 😂😂 I think you missed the list because you didn't scrolled down enough! The list and even the links are on the description of the video. And I don't think I'm off topic. I'm just not as straight to the point as Americans are. But remember I'm French, and in our country we like to discuss, to consider, to debate, broaden the scopes and to try to put a little bit of spirit in everything we do (including lists!!). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS fair enough. I didn't intend to be disrespectful . If I was I am sorry. You do many things I do like. Your taste in shoes I do like. No one is better than you in accessorizing peak lapels. Your ties are great too.
Greetings Hugo, curious : have you met the guy of Gentleman's Gazette before? I don't remember his name but i am certain there is clear disparity in your views in terms of theories, beliefs, tastes and choices, speaking of masculine elegance.
Good morning Peter. yes we know Sven Raphael Schneider very well. He's doing an excellent job even if his style (and the global tonality of his channel) is very American. We have a more European sensibility. All my best, Hugo
If you are in the USA you face a challenge with many of the brands listed here - you wont find a store to go try them on first and get fitted. I tried a Meermin and the last was not right for me, also the quality was not there, and they were hard to break it. I will never buy a shoe again that I can't try on in person. The benefit to Allen Edmonds is there are many stores in major cities in the USA to try on the different models and have a sales associate advise you on sizing and last styles. If you do buy on line and they dont fit - returns or exchanges are easy. If you shop the sales (2-3 times a year) they are the among the best values out there in GYW shoes.
Thank you for this video. I have seen some of their videos which were most informative. Lovely to watch another Sartorial talks. Despite the nearly one hour I always find them too short! No, I do not wish you to work harder! It is a testament to the quality of content!
Great video - curious what you think of the French brand Loding? I stumbled across them just now and I think you are dually qualified to answer, both for your shoe knowledge and being French. They claim to specialize in goodyear welted shoes and every model I see presently is well under $500 CAD, I'm assuming that would translate to somewhere around $300 USD roughly (more so due to often finding lower pricing in the USA rather than exchange rate).. I wonder if you know anything about them both in terms of quality and/or value. Stylistically they don't look incredible, some of them look like they could be a good starting point for a patina'd shoe though. Would be a good shoe to experiment on for a first timer, won't be too afraid to ruin something very expensive. I could see the argument for getting one of these other brands that have better aesthetics and patina'd models available - but could Also could have a polisher put a patina on the Loding and still not be too far in the hole - It would likely be a similar price to importing one of these other brands. This largely has to do with limited availability on all these brands locally. Outside of Tricker's - Loding would be the easiest to find locally to try on (from the list in the video)
Loding is decent, but honestly 7ème largeur (in the same price range, maybe 20% more) is much better (especially in terms of leather quality). Cheers, Hugo
Thank u guys for providing great footwear insights. Is there any quality shoes coming out of Turkey? Seeing some " bespoke" claims by manufacturers there ? Any guidance or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Aaron H. - Toronto , Canada.
Does being owned by a publicly traded company or private equity make a difference compared to higher quality shoe companies that might be family owned? What do you guys think? Allen Edmonds is owned by Caleres. Alden is owned by an individual I believe.
Dear Jackson, we can't generalize but normally a family owned company will do a better job as such companies are less obsessed with profit (and excel spread sheets!!). Cheers, Hugo
Hi, Great video as always. Very interesting and informative. Recently, I discovered a english shoe brand called Merwick 1707. and their shoes are made in Spain. Looking at their collection online, there are lots of English and even Italian styles to choose from (Most of them very affordable). What's your opinion on this brand?
I believe you speak about Berwick. It's a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory located in Almansa Spain (which supplies many many brands). As I already wrote on another comment, it's decent quality but I find their story-telling slightly over the top. Using 1707 under the brand name and telling all the story about Goodyear machines is a little bit misleading. Cheers, Hugo
a properly useful video! thank you! Agree on Cheaney, I have a nice pair of Oxfords from them that have lasted beautifully. I also have a pair of Church Oxfords bought in 2009 (Prada sale was 1999 I think), a gift from my wife so won't complain too much, but they are just not as good as their price would imply. I still wear them but they have never broken in properly - a full day wearing them and I get blisters below my toes - never mind that the oxblood colour began scraping off on the side of the heels (and not in a nice patina way) within a year. They were sent back to Church by the shop who fully agreed with me, but Church said it was my own fault because of the way I walk and refused to do anything. nonsense of course, no other shoes of mine have had the same problem. they lost me as a customer forever. The shop offered a refund so no blame on them, but out of loyalty to the shop I kept them. Most people would never notice the flaw, however it boils my blood a little when I think about it - I'll only ever buy Church again if I find them for under €20 in a charity shop.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Joseph Cheaney (now owned by the Church family) is an excellent option. Church has lost its soul two decades ago. Cheers, Hugo
I got some shoes from Vienna Schuhmanufaktur for around 300 Euro (I think their production is in Hungary). Excellent quality for this low price, and I was surprised to see they also move into sneaker production.
I purchased a pair of Carlos Santos boots from herringshoes and I'm very impressed with the last and quality of construction. They make some very stylish boots.
Dear Ramon, we know Magnanni quite well (it's a Spanish brand once again). It's a good option even if I'm not a big fan of some of their designs. But all this remains, thank God, highly subjective. Cheers, Hugo
Thanks for this video, it was very informative, I love a good pair of quality shoes. I checked all the brands discussed and only a few of them carry women shoes. I already know a few brands thanks to your videos, but would like to have more options and more guidance to buy a good quality pair of women shoes, so I hope there will be a video like this for women shoes one day :) I watched a video Sonia made related to the subject, but was mainly Lottuse and unfortunately they don't ship to Canada :'(
Hi March ! Cheaney, Saint Crispin, JM Weston, Office of Angela Scott are a few names to try. Also I noticed in the comment section there seem to be a few other recs. Cheers to you and hope you enjoy the process ! Sonya
I don't really know my friend. We've received a few messages from Pakistan makers over the years, but never had a chance to see their work in person. All our best, Hugo
You're right Mostafa. Actually I've been a brand ambassador for Laurent Ferrier for 2 years, so I had the joy to wear superlative times pieces during the time of this partnership. Cheers, Hugo
It's better not to wear the same pair of shoes every day. At least every other day or, even better, every other week if you have enough pairs. Best regards, Hugo
Hi Hugo, great as always. As the owner of a main and creative reseller online shop of Carlos Santos, it makes me happy to see how you value them. There are many different lines: Sport (sneakers and trainers) Blake/Bologna Premium Blake (new with a super tight waist) Goodyear Welted (Carlos Santos) Handgrade Line Handcrafted Line Wish you were at the super trunk show in London this weekend! It was a pleasure meeting amazing people once more. I have owned most of the shoes on this list and I would agree with most of them!
Thank you my friend for providing these informations. I own a pair of V front derby from the Handgrade line since more than a decade and they are still in excellent shape. Cheers, Hugo
bonjour Hugo, i have a question concernign my Santoni shoes. i have some trouble with squeaking noises. the cobblers i contacted said that its nearly impossible to eliminate the noises. if i am lucky the noise goes with time if i am lucky. but thats not satisfying for me because i nearly paid a 1000 eur for it. unfortunately i didnt wear the shoes immeadiately after i bought it so they are already 2 years old so that i cant give them back. maybe you have a recommendation about that.. merci beaucoup in advance and greetings from Munich!
Dear SP, I'm afraid the "squeaking" noise is a "mystery" (probably coming from the interaction between glue and leather somewhere inside the shoe). The only way to reduce it is to wear the shoes a lot, and this will become less and less audible normally. Cheers, Hugo
Cobbler-Union experience = F- Everyone pleasant just can't get their inventory in check. Twice shipped incorrect shoe in correctly labeled box. Shoes shipped from Spain so had to wait, wait, wait. Altogether 45 days to get return processed. Now I have a belt without a matching pair of shoes...Support would not get me to someone in leadership that could actually save the sale. Each time I got shuffled to someone new that had no history of the RMA so had to explain multiple times. As far as I could tell there is no stateside inventory. As an aside, shoes looked great so quality appeared to be there. Took my business elsewhere. :(
I am definitely one of those who used to feel confident purchasing italian clothes because they were made in Italy 10 years ago. Now I check all labels inside out anything from Italy because they have started to cut corners outsourcing manufacturing to Romania, Turkey and even Albania. I don´t buy that crap, even if it is Armani. It is becoming harder to find "made in Italy" tagged clothes for a good value.
Bonjour, Hugo. Thank you for another wonderful video. When is it appropriate to have a rubber sole rather than a leather sole on a dress shoe? The other day, I noticed a rubber sole on a beautiful oxblood derby with brouging. Merci.
Hey John, rubber sole are, by definition more casual, but they are most of the time acceptable with a business suit (if they are not too thick). Best regards, Hugo
Hi, thank you very much for your honest job and great talk. What about Berwick 1707 shoes. What is your honest opinion on this shoemaker? Appreciate it.
Hey again Andrej, I just looked at Berwick. Actually it seems it is what we call a "private label" supplied by a very famous factory based in Almansa. This factory supplies shoes to, at least, 50 brands (if not more). Basically those shoes are the same as many other brands you may know. I find Berwick's story-telling a little bit exaggerated though (and somehow misleading, like using 1707 under the brand name and telling the story of the creation of the Goodyear method). Otherwise, it's very decent quality. Cheers, Hugo
Very true, the quality of Allen Edmunds is not good at all. I bought a pair in the US but never enjoyed wearing the shoes. It is very hard and not comfortable. I contacted the company a few times but they did not help me and they were asking me about the receipt which I didn't have. But I will never recommend it to anyone. I have been using loake, Moreschi, and some other brands that are super.
Allen Edmonds are for the big guys, when I was 180lbs, I gravitated towards buying the European cuts which are usually slimmer and more elegant, but at 265lbs now, it make not sense, first the base is not as wide as an support, second, it looks odd to have a fat ass big belly but slim shapely feet.
I'm visiting Romania in 1 week - could you please recommend a local shoemaker? It would help me a lot in order to see what you were talking about in the video.
Dear Sofian, sorry for my late answer. I advise you to visit Petru & Claymoor in Bucarest. The address is Strada Emanoil Porumbaru 64, București 011423. Cheers, Hugo
Hi Hugo, I enjoyed the mention of the quality of some excellent Ties available now, post COVID. There are some wonderful high quality ties that stand out above the rest due to the elimination of bulk tie makers. It’s exciting to find a fantastic tie. It’s in someways a lost art, but people notice. Love your channel as always. Now I have to search if you’ve done a Tie segment or two :)
I love the content that you provide, love the show, and keep up the great work. would you advise where I could purchase vintage, used boots other than eBay or amazon? I'm looking for a pair of the Taft Gladiator boot in chocolate, Is there an online retailer that sells these boots
@@SARTORIALTALKS Leeder-Cuero was the only label on the under sole I could find, there's stitching all around the sole connected to the upper (Goodyearwelted)! The heal is nailed to the sole. Are these shoe high Quality?
Finally! Was eagerly waiting for a video. Hugo, please do a video on top suits under $1000 budget. We know common names like Suit Supply, Spier & Mackay, Indochino, etc. But it would be great to know about other bespoke suit tailors.
I just commented on another video that I found your channel yesterday. I can’t believe you were in Columbia. I live only 15 minutes away from there and own a house there were my mom lives. I really hope to visit great places like this!
